Poster: A snowHead
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Back in the summer I posted about a potential first ski trip to Japan, but inexcusably I did not answer to the thread (which, in great snowheads tradition, veered a bit - towards discussing avalanches in trees).
In the meantime we booked tickets: arriving Feb 8th just after noon, flying back February 18 at 5pm (and yes, I know that we land in the middle of the Chinese New Year holiday). That gives us a maximum of 9 ski days, possibly just 7 or 8 if we do a day in Tokyo or if we mix Honshu and Hokkaido. It will be just me and my wife. She is a good and fearless skier (she skied the north face of Valluga on the day she found out she was pregnant), but doesn't have lots of experience in deep powder. Outside Europe, we have skied together before in Whistler, Breckenridge / Vail, and Cerro Catedral (the latter with a guide).
We already received some good advice on the other thread (thanks all!) but, now that I did a lot more research, I'd welcome further input.
Here's our thinking:
- We're leaning towards combining two areas in Honshu, rather than one in Honshu and one in Hokkaido, to cut back on travel time
- At this point, we're thinking Hakuba and Myoko Kogen, 4-5 days each (perhaps starting in Myoko Kogen as the first week is the busier one, but that's the less busy area). This seems to give lots of opportunities to ski different areas, access some really cool terrain, and score some serious powder
- as an option to one of the above, we're also thinking Nozawa Onsen (but see below question re backcountry)
- The second big option is to combine two areas in Hokkaido - probably Niseko+ Rusutsu and separately Furano. This would further increase the chances of powder, at additional cost (both travel and more expensive accommodation) and travel time, and potentially with busier resorts and less interesting terrain. We may be able to use the first day and last days for travel to/ from Hokkaido, hence not losing ski time. Hard to decide between the potential of even better powder and the downsides...
- probably the least favourite option is to do 4 days in Honshu and 4 in Hokkaido, as we'll definitely lose at least a day on travel, and we'll be tired.
And now some key practical questions:
- most importantly, do we get a guide? We'd prefer to do so...any suggestions? or one of those organised tours? (eg Powder Recon, if we find spaces)
- I'm aware that the resorts are small but that with great powder you can find lots of lines... nevertheless, if we want to also go backcountry, which are the areas where this is not allowed? (I've read that it's not permitted in Nozawa Onsen, for instance)
- for Honshu, I assume we'll take the fast train to Nagano, then I was thinking of renting a car so we stay flexible - any major issues with that? (I've read in another thread that I need to get an international licence, so I will)
- I assume we need to book accommodation asap? What about guides? now or over there, if / when needed?
- skis: she will have some DPS 112s, I'll have my Whitedot Ronde 110s (I also have some Countdown 114s but, although the Rondes are narrower, I think I prefer them). Wide enough?
- do we need to get ski passes in advance? I would prefer to pick the ski area on the spot, and I understand tickets are not that expensive
- any particular recommendations re accommodation?
- anything really important that I'm missing?
Fire away with any comments!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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With my limited experience- hard to get feedback from guides online. Guided tours also get booked pretty quick. You can chance and try booking on spot. One other option - check if catski is available in the area you are going to..
Two areas on the same island is better imp than island hopping. Niseko/Rusutsu are two different areas but very close to each other so not difficult logistically.
Btw, in case you hire a car your driver’s permit is important - different rules for BE, RO and UK issued permits
Accommodation is not expensive if you have wheels.
By arriving you meant Tokyo or closer o slopes?
Re skipass - no need to book in advance
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@mooney058, many thanks! I've read that you're off to Furano in mid-Jan, enjoy! Let's (finally) have that beer we talked about for so long... any time in the coming week or next? PM me.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@horizon, will PM, next week is full of travels.
PS super jealous of your choice of skis. Any of them will do. When skied with MikePow in 2018 he was on skinny pair Taking my oldish qst106 (shifts and skins so good for a light tour), for my ability level they are plenty.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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A couple of my mates went to Tenjin this year and loved it. Definitely on my to do list.
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@horizon, will you have touring gear with you? I only know about Akakura kanko and Ikenotaria, but in my opinion the inbounds stuff is nothing special and not worth travelling from the UK for. There is some lift accessed side country that is good but really to make the most of it you need to tour above the lifts. You're not going to get a huge amount of vertical in each day doing that but it is very different to anything in Europe and would normally offer great snow and good terrain. I did two guided days with these guys:
https://www.dancingsnow.com/
And I thought that they were great but be aware that they don't do group tours every day, they need enough people before they will run. I'm not sure how many clients they need before you get the group price rather the private price. While I feel happy recommending Dancing Snow I feel a bit more ambivalent about recommending Myoko Kogen due to feeling limited in the inbounds area but didn't ski anywhere else so can't compare. There were also some pretty long lift queues when I was there but I only did weekends there so it might be quieter midweek. It's ease of access from Tokyo is why I chose it but might also have contributed to its busyness
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@hang11, many thanks for the advice! still looking for accommodation (not a lot left!), so the options really help - for instance I found something near Seki onsen.
(I'm also thinking Shiga Kogen as the area is bigger).
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@Mike Pow, great, thank you!
If we could chance it with leaving accommodation until the last moment, I'd probably do that and head to the best snow area - there's just so much choice! But I'm worried that we'd have nowhere to stay (and, although we're flexible, my wife does want to feel like she's on holiday, so we're not looking for luxury but at least a private bathroom and something to do in the evening).
I'll definitely contact Tenjin Lodge as that could be really cool for part of the trip.
(But if we changed our mind and decided to go to Hokkaido for the full trip, since it's not much difference in travel time from Narita airport, what would you suggest?)
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@rambotion, we're absolutely taking touring gear with us, actually neither of us has used skis without touring bindings for the last three years at least! (so we just have to remember to take the skins with us, of course).
I'm aware that the inbounds terrain can be limiting in many resorts as they're a lot smaller. I'd be quite happy lapping up powder in the trees for many days, but we'd definitely want to access some more interesting terrain at least on around half of the days.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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horizon wrote: |
@Mike Pow, great, thank you!
If we could chance it with leaving accommodation until the last moment, I'd probably do that and head to the best snow area - there's just so much choice! But I'm worried that we'd have nowhere to stay (and, although we're flexible, my wife does want to feel like she's on holiday, so we're not looking for luxury but at least a private bathroom and something to do in the evening).
I'll definitely contact Tenjin Lodge as that could be really cool for part of the trip.
(But if we changed our mind and decided to go to Hokkaido for the full trip, since it's not much difference in travel time from Narita airport, what would you suggest?) |
As you haven't been before I would recommend the Niseko United, Niseko Moiwa, Rusutsu and Kiroro
Out of one base with drives 1hr each way max you get a real sense of what that part of Hokkaido has to offer
Throw in a cat day and/or a touring day or two and that would make for a great first trip
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Everyone needs to stop talking about Tenjin!
Joke. Have stayed there a lot and my favourite place on both islands. Serious mountains and a great walk to the peak when it’s sunny. Can get dangerous with a lot of snow. Only place I’ve ever come off the mountain because it was too deep. A boarder fell over that day and they found him in the spring. Shocker! Worth guiding a day with Kieren but after that it’s easy to navigate.
Kieren and the team are so nice and the lodge is very chilled out. Good beers and food. Amazing food down in Minakami and ski a lot in Hodaigi with some really cool old onsen nearby. They will transfer you there.
Back in late January but spending the rest of the time in Aomori and Tohoku as looks to be an El Niño year. Dumps everywhere though so more about luck.
Enjoy all!
J
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You know it makes sense.
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horizon wrote: |
@hang11, many thanks for the advice! still looking for accommodation (not a lot left!), so the options really help - for instance I found something near Seki onsen.
(I'm also thinking Shiga Kogen as the area is bigger). |
If you go for Shiga Kogen this may give a flavour. Trip with my son whilst he was studying at Waseda University in Tokyo. https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=142632
I’ve not skied anywhere else in Japan so doesn’t count as a locals recommendation like you get from @MikePow
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Madarao is really fun by the way! Agree on Myoko - short pitches inbounds but great touring options. It chucks it there also. Lots of Aussies!
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Poster: A snowHead
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horizon wrote: |
@hang11, many thanks for the advice! still looking for accommodation (not a lot left!), so the options really help - for instance I found something near Seki onsen.
(I'm also thinking Shiga Kogen as the area is bigger). |
Shiga is not for evening intertainment and pritty booked out.
Party party - go Niseko (Hirafu) - remember to book your dinners, if you do not stay HB. (not cheap - especialy in your time-frame.)
Japan is more for commual baths/onsen.
(from a piste skier)
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@horizon, myoko mountain lodge is great if they have any space left. It was recommended to me and I loved staying with them. Lovely owners and great food.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@hang11, @Mike Pow, (with apologies to@horizon, for the thread drift) what would be the most traditional and hopefully not too busy place/area from Tokyo - Nozawa, Myomo, Hakuba? My little, well 6foot5, son will be doing his year abroad studies at Tokyo Institute of Technology from early Oct (2024) to early March (2025) and I was thinking of taking him ski when visiting in January or February. 4-6 days by train or possibly driving from Tokyo. Additional challenge - non-skiing missus so sightseeing options during the day would be nice.
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horizon wrote: |
- At this point, we're thinking Hakuba and Myoko Kogen, 4-5 days each (perhaps starting in Myoko Kogen |
We did something very similar for our honeymoon (way back in 2013!).
Flew into Tokyo and took the bullet train for Myoko for 9 days.
Between the various resorts in the area (Seki Onsen, Suginohara, Myoko, Ikenotaira) there is plenty to keep you busy for a week in area.
I think we met 3 other groups speaking English all week.
Couple of Ozzies and some Swedes. It will be different now though.
horizon wrote: |
And now some key practical questions: |
horizon wrote: |
- most importantly, do we get a guide? We'd prefer to do so...any suggestions? or one of those organised tours? (eg Powder Recon, if we find spaces) |
We didnt bother with a guide. (However I have skied a lot off piste)
There is plenty accessible side-country that we didnt need to venture far to find endless powder.
horizon wrote: |
- I'm aware that the resorts are small but that with great powder you can find lots of lines... nevertheless, if we want to also go backcountry, which are the areas where this is not allowed? |
In Myoko off piste was 100% legit.
I think Hakuba is similar but not Nowza Onsen?
horizon wrote: |
- for Honshu, I assume we'll take the fast train to Nagano, then I was thinking of renting a car so we stay flexible - any major issues with that? (I've read in another thread that I need to get an international licence, so I will) |
The train to Nagano worked fine.
Local buses worked to get to the other resorts.
Not digging a car out in the morning was welcome.
horizon wrote: |
- I assume we need to book accommodation asap? |
horizon wrote: |
- any particular recommendations re accommodation? |
We stayed at Star Hotel in Myoko.
Bit old school but they made us suishi on the last night,
Tourist office might be able to help if there is nothing online?
horizon wrote: |
- skis: she will have some DPS 112s, I'll have my Whitedot Ronde 110s (I also have some Countdown 114s but, although the Rondes are narrower, I think I prefer them). Wide enough? |
I went with some 108mm K2 Sidestash. That was plenty.
If its not ski faster
horizon wrote: |
- do we need to get ski passes in advance? I would prefer to pick the ski area on the spot, and I understand tickets are not that expensive |
Not back then - might be different now!
horizon wrote: |
- anything really important that I'm missing? |
This is the best English language guide book I know.
Worth finding a copy.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Snow-Search-Japan-Keith-Stubbs/dp/0954801431?tag=amz07b-21
Take some time to see Tokyo, Snow Monkeys.
Just being in Japan itself is a cool experience.
Nagano is worth half a day too - some cool temples etc.
Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Tue 2-04-24 20:34; edited 2 times in total
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Nice one.
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New question. What is the easiest Japan ski area for an almost beginner boarder and a beginner skier? Bottomless powder definitely not needed. Whole thing needs to be fairly low cost, including lessons. My grandson doing a gap year - working in Australia, usual sort of thing, and then some skiing in Japan around Christmas.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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mooney058 wrote: |
@hang11, @Mike Pow, (with apologies to@horizon, for the thread drift) what would be the most traditional and hopefully not too busy place/area from Tokyo - Nozawa, Myomo, Hakuba? My little, well 6foot5, son will be doing his year abroad studies at Tokyo Institute of Technology from early Oct (2024) to early March (2025) and I was thinking of taking him ski when visiting in January or February. 4-6 days by train or possibly driving from Tokyo. Additional challenge - non-skiing missus so sightseeing options during the day would be nice. |
I've not been, but friends have.
Nozawa for all three of you.
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@mooney058
TIT (now Tokyo Tech) has a skiclub - son might join it.
In fact my first ever skiing was with TIT club members. A bit back in time in the early 80s.
Could only find a ski racing club now - but sure some other ski trips are made.
https://titski.jimdofree.com/
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