 Poster: A snowHead
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Links to all trip reports
Feb 2014: Soll (SkiWelt), Austria
Jan 2015: Alpe d'Huez & Les 2 Alpes, France
Jan 2016: Les Carroz (Grand Massif), France
Mar 2017: Belle Plagne (Paradiski), France (no TR yet)
Jan 2018: Notre Dame de Bellecombe (Espace Diamant), France
Mar 2018: Ponte di Legno +Ponte di Legno-Tonale, Pejo, Monte Altissimo (Borno), Aprica , central Italian Alps
Jan 2019: St Gervais (Evasion Mont Blanc) +Cordon, Megeve-St Gervais-Combloux-La Giettaz, Les Contamines , France
Mar 2019: Varena, southern Dolomites +Alpe Cermis, Passo Rolle, Latemar, St Martino di Castrozza, Alpe Lusia, Pozza di Fassa / Buffaure, San Pellegrino / Falcade, Carezza, Jochgrimm, Catinaccio / Vigo di Fassa , Italy
Jan 2020: Abondance (Portes du Soleil) +Portes du Soleil main circuit, Abondance, Cret Beni (La Chapelle d'Abondance), Bernex, Praz de Lys, Thollon , France
Mar 2020: Embrun, Provence Alps +Les Orres, Foret Blanche (Risoul-Vars) , France
Jan 2022: Vizille, Grenoble Alps +Le Collet d'Allevard, Lans en Vercors, Alpe d'Huez, Alpe du Grand Serre, Chamrousse, Villard de Lans-Correncon, Meaudre, Autrans, Les 7 Laux, Gresse en Vercors , France
Mar 2022: Aosta Valley +Espace San Bernardo (La Thuile-La Rosiere), Pila, Courmayeur, Monterosa Ski, Skyway Monte Bianco , Italy
Jan 2023: St Jean d'Aulps (Portes du Soleil) +Portes du Soleil main circuit, Morzine-Les Gets, Roc d'Enfer, Praz de Lys , France
Mar 2023: Valtellina +Piani di Bobbio, Valchiavenna (Madesimo), Livigno, Bormio, Cima Piazzi, Santa Caterina, Ponte di Legno-Tonale, Valmalenco, Aprica , Italy
Jan 2024: Aravis & Tarentaise +Le Grand Bornand, La Clusaz, Valmorel, Arêches-Beaufort, Pralognan la Vanoise, Sainte Foy Tarentaise, Courchevel , France
Feb 2024: Trentino +Folgaria, Paganella, Monte Bondone, Rittner Horn, Campiglio Ski, Lavarone , Italy
This trip report
Skip to:
>> La Thuile / La Rosiere Day 1 / Day 2 / Day 3 / Day 4
>> Pila
>> Courmayeur
>> Monterosa Ski Day 1 / Day 2
>> Skyway Monte Bianco (Courmayeur)
££ Cost breakdown
Next week we're flying to Italy for a holiday in the Aosta Valley, where we'll be based in Aosta itself and driving to various ski areas. Unlike January's trip to France, planning this one has been straightforward, with no travel bans or cancelled flights (fingers crossed!). Italy also removed their negative Covid test requirement today.
Our original plan was to visit the ski areas in the upper half of the valley, including smaller resorts such as Crevacol and Cogne, and leaving the lower part of the valley for a future trip. However, snow is scarce in western Italy this season, so we'll probably concentrate on the larger domains or those with better conditions, both up and down the valley. Spread across 8.5 days, the "likely" list is:
- La Thuile / La Rosiere
- Courmayeur
- Pila
- Monterosa Ski
- Skyway Monte Bianco (not skiing)
The regional lift pass is very expensive, so we will most likely buy a 6 day La Thuile lift pass, which includes 2 days in other Aosta Valley resorts, and then fill the gaps with daily passes. Cervinia / Zermatt is a backup, but we will hopefully spend a full week there in the future.
Looking at the ensembles, the weather in the run-up to our trip looks cool with a little (but not significant) snowfall. There are signs of a pattern change to something more unsettled but a bit milder around the 11th March (i.e. our first day of skiing). This is still 10 days away but it'll be interesting to watch - my money is on a more unsettled westerly regime, which would bring significant snow and perhaps low-level rain to the head of the valley (favouring La Rosiere, but also La Thuile and Courmayeur), but less to Pila and Monterosa Ski. (I would rather have the snowfall before we arrive, but I don't get to choose these things!  )
Covid rules (Scotland to Italy)
- Italian & UK PLF forms
- Scottish & Italian Green Pass apps showing proof of vaccination (& printouts for backups)
- FFP2 masks technically required for enclosed lifts, & surgical masks for other lifts & indoor areas
3rd party insurance is also now mandatory in Italy when skiing.
I've been following the excellent ongoing trip report by @ElzP who is currently in Aosta for the season, but always glad of more local recommendations for restaurants etc. between now and when we depart. As always, I'll add photos and a cost breakdown after we get back home.
Aosta Roman theatre seen from our Airbnb window
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Mon 4-03-24 23:07; edited 19 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@denfinella, we’ve done a few trips to Aosta valley in recent years, staying in Courmayuer, and skiing there plus a few days at LaThuile and Pila each trip. Courmayuer in the main bowl can get a little soft in the afternoons, we tend to stay high and down load if it’s really warm, or you could take the ValVeny gondola up in the morning and finish off there also, the Val Veny side gets less sun and will be better in the afternoon. If you drop down to the valley, be aware that the Peindient lift is a very slow 2 man, don’t get caught too late. Food wise it’s generally all good on the mountain, our favourites are Chez Olier under the the Pra Neyron lift for pizzas, and pasta, or Pre Pascal just below ValVeny gondola, it’s has wonderful views over to Monte Bianco, it’s a canteen type service but has good local food ( we don’t spend too long eating when skiing)
La Thuile is probably the best area to go if it’s warm, cos it’s always seems to have a cold wind on the pass, food wise we like Roxy Bar on run 7 and the large place halfway up Chaz Dura express.
Pila is compact and easily done in a day, our favourite is run 2, it’s never been busy when we’ve been as it’s at the edge of the area. It’s a 20 min ride on the gondola, get there reasonably early to miss the UK school kids , and sort your kit out while your in the gondola.
I’m hoping to do a solo trip from the 19th, Aosta as a base is on my list, as it’s got decent bus or train transfer options vs £230 for a car hire.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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We arrived in Aosta yesterday and just completed first day skiing in Pila conditions are OK but very reliant on man made snow and no options for off piste.
Other than at the gondala station in Aosta very relaxed regarding showing of passes and wearing of masks on any lifts.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@ElzP, look forward to hearing about your La Thuile / Courmayeur trips. I've just put a specific Aosta question on your own TR.
@geoffknight, thanks, that's good info. Slope aspect always increasingly important in March!
@kevinrhead, that fits with my expectations based on the webcams and other reports on here. Hope you have a good trip - are you just based in Aosta/Pila or planning to travel around?
All of you - I'm under the impression that at weekends it might be wise to aim for La Thuile, as Courmayeur / Pila can be affected by weekend crowds. Would you say that's right?
Finally, does the Italian green pass have to be connected to the lift pass (as is the case in the Dolomites and some other areas, I think)? Or do they stay separate?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| denfinella wrote: |
All of you - I'm under the impression that at weekends it might be wise to aim for La Thuile, as Courmayeur / Pila can be affected by weekend crowds. Would you say that's right?
Finally, does the Italian green pass have to be connected to the lift pass (as is the case in the Dolomites and some other areas, I think)? Or do they stay separate? |
Nightmare about your flight! Glad you got it vaguely sorted but not ideal...
On the above, weekends in Pila - outside holiday times - are busier but Sunday is much better than Saturday in our experience.
No linking of lift passes to covid passes. We've got our covid qr code round our necks on lanyards for skiing, found it much easier than phone faff!
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@denfinella, that’s not great news, if your staying at the airport overnight I can recommend a really good restaurant Samarcanda Ristorante Pizzeria, it’s easy walking distance from the Holiday inn Express or Idea Hotels which we’ve used before, it’s best to book a table beforehand, it seems to be full of locals each time we’ve been there, always a good sign, last time there we also ordered pizza to take away and had them for lunch on the flight home the next day.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@denfinella, sorry to hear about the flight hiccup, but glad you found a way round it.
Your Val di Fiemme TR served us well last month when we stayed nr Predazzo, so hope to return the favour by giving some tips from my Aosta Valley trip in 2020.
One thing that could dent your budget in the Aosta Valley is the cost of the motorway toll going up valley. Once you get just past Aosta Est exit there is a toll booth that wanted €23 (in 2020) for any journey west. It may be a little less if you join at Aosta Ovest. It is a heavily engineered section that seemed to have as many tunnel sections as viaducts. The toll covers you all the way to the Mt Blanc tunnel, but you still have to pay the full amount even if you turn off early for La Thuile or Courmayeur.
Our Airbnb host advised us not to use it as he considered it a rip-off and use the fairly well engineered SS26 instead, but it will inevitably take longer. We sometimes paid the toll for speed for the morning commute up valley and returned on the main road when time wasn't of the essence.
Any other Qs, please ask! 
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@ElzP, thanks for the tips about crowds. I have got myself a bit confused about the Covid Super Green Pass - this is probably a stupid question, but am I right in thinking that there isn't a specific app for this, and we should just use the UK (or French) one? Plus a printed backup (don't think I'm organised enough to make a lanyard  ).
@geoffknight, we are indeed staying in that area, and I'd already perused the Google reviews for that restaurant! It's nice to get a snowHead's take on it.
@luigi, thanks - did you do a TR in 2020 by any chance? I dislike toll roads at the best of times and the setup you describe sounds like a complete ripoff, so will certainly be avoiding using them most of the time unless we are in a hurry. The layout of where the Autostrada junctions are means that they don't seem to save much time between Aosta and the ski areas anyway.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| denfinella wrote: |
| @ElzP, thanks for the tips about crowds. I have got myself a bit confused about the Covid Super Green Pass - this is probably a stupid question, but am I right in thinking that there isn't a specific app for this, and we should just use the UK (or French) one? Plus a printed backup (don't think I'm organised enough to make a lanyard ) |
Definitely the NHS Covid app QR code works fine in Turin/Val d'Aosta
("super Green Pass" is a just cover all title for the different ways to demonstrate status not a system /app in itself; verifacaC19 is the app that IT folks at turnstiles themselves use to check your status /QR code - you can download it and check your own status (!) but the essential and only thing you need is your own NHS QR code on phone and/or paper!)
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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... and looking forward to updates as ever for your reports, @denfinella,
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You know it makes sense.
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I got my NHS Covid Pass Booster QR code laminated, plus put a screenshot of it on the lock screen of my phone. The Italian checker app recognises it. As it happened, where we went in the Dolomites, the Dolomiti Superski app meant that we didn't have to show it every day, just to purchase the passes, then you register your lift pass and QR code on the app and renew it each morning in the app. Mountain restaurants didn't ask for it, but we did always sit outside and only went inside to use the loos. The only other time we were asked for our Covid Passes was at Verona Airport to get airside.
Last edited by You know it makes sense. on Mon 7-03-22 19:07; edited 1 time in total
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| denfinella wrote: |
@luigi, thanks - did you do a TR in 2020 by any chance? I dislike toll roads at the best of times and the setup you describe sounds like a complete ripoff, so will certainly be avoiding using them most of the time unless we are in a hurry. The layout of where the Autostrada junctions are means that they don't seem to save much time between Aosta and the ski areas anyway. |
Sorry, no formal TR, but I did a few posts on threads with info around the time.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Just dropping in with a couple of tips after a day each in Courmayeur and La Thuile.
By car, the drive up to Courmayeur is very easy - definitely wouldn't bother with the motorway. There's a covered car park at the Dolonne which costs, or an open car park a short walk away which is free (turn right after the bridge dropping down to Dolonne for the free one, car on to the lift for the covered one).
Chalet Chez Croux has the best hot choc, mine had flumps in it!
Drive up to La Thuile windy but the road is very good. Pay parking - by phone app - next to the gondola. For reasons, i didn't make it to France, but OH says well worth it, enjoyable skiing and beautiful views. He says get over there first thing if possible, as the routes that can't be avoided there and back get very cut up later in the day.
In case you need anything ski related, as you have the car, i recommend Technosport in Aosta. Very wide range and knowledgeable people.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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As you have probably seen from other Aosta threads I spent 6 days there in Feb 20, doing very similar to your plan.
Tolls have increased, just check my cost breakdown on my phone we were splitting between the two "Dads", tolls were no more than €18 per day except for the trip to and from airport.
- La Thuile / La Rosiere
- Courmayeur
- Pila
- Monterosa Ski
all good and obvious choices. We ended up buying a day pass for the resort we visited that day, as buying any sort of regional or 6 day pass was no cheaper.
Monterosa was favourite despite longest drive from Aosta, but given weather / snow cover suggest you carefully check likely conditions ahead. The lifts over the valley tops in Monerosa are high and shut in bad weather, but it is glorious on a good day. massive sense of space and travelling as opposed to a compact resort.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Wildsmith, @luigi, cheers for the Covid pass tips.
@ElzP, thanks for the driving / parking info. We are hiring in La Thuile because there was a massive difference in cost (both hire places in Aosta were about triple the price!), so will be heading there on the first day, and again at the end of the trip.
@t44tomo, nice description of Monterosa - really looking forward to it now! 
The weather for the 10 days is generally looking a bit "nothing" - not much snow but not much sun either. Hopefully the cloud base will above the peaks and the wind won't be too bad. For La Thuile / La Rosiere - does anyone have experience on the link closing suddenly during the middle of the day, or does it stay open if they open it in the morning?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@denfinella, The link can close at short notice, I’d advise only going over if the forecast in advance and a visual check when close. Also Italian side the food is much better value and quality, plus La Roz is mainly south facing Ive found that the snow is generally better on the Italian side.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| denfinella wrote: |
@kevinrhead, that fits with my expectations based on the webcams and other reports on here. Hope you have a good trip - are you just based in Aosta/Pila or planning to travel around?
All of you - I'm under the impression that at weekends it might be wise to aim for La Thuile, as Courmayeur / Pila can be affected by weekend crowds. Would you say that's right?
Finally, does the Italian green pass have to be connected to the lift pass (as is the case in the Dolomites and some other areas, I think)? Or do they stay separate? |
We have now left Aosta and during last week we skied in Pila, La Thuile/ La Rosier . Cervinia and Cogne all were skiable but relied on man made snow none were very busy although it was a half-term week for the Italians. I would say that best conditions and lack of crowds were in Pila, We are now having a few days in Verona before heading of to the small resort of Macugnaga for another weeks skiing The hotel there says conditions are the worst since 1981 in the Italian Alps , with very few runs open. 
The green pass did not have to be linked to lift pass and we were only ever asked to show it at the bottom stations.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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@denfinella, yes if its windy the link will shut as the ridge it goes over is quite exposed. IIRC it was shut in the morning when we were there so we stayed La Thuile side. When the wind died down a bit after lunch we ventured over the ridge, mainly Fourclaz side which is still Italy, but had a brief incursion into France, but were wary of it shutting again. From Fourclaz there is route round the back (piste 7) to the main gondola base and parking, which I think we did as a "home run".
Interesting that ski hire was much cheaper in La Thuile. We hired from Pila gondola base in Aosta, but we arrived early morning first day so made sense to hire there and have a half day skiing and then last day skied Pila, dropped of ski's, had a quick shower & change and headed to the airport for late flight home (then 5 hours sleep and a 5hr drive north for a family wedding )
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@geoffknight, @t44tomo, thanks for the tips re. the link. Wind is a bit difficult to forecast over the next week as, although the weather is relatively settled and general wind speeds will be low, there is a big temperature gradient between the two sides of the Alpine ridge, and likely foehn winds in localised spots. I will consult the lift operators.
@kevinrhead, all the best for Macugnaga. I would like to visit one day (who could resist somewhere with a name like that!).
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We've arrived
It's late so just a quick update - very straightforward journey from Edinburgh to Aosta via Malpensa this afternoon. Both airports were quiet (Malpensa notably so) with no queues or delays for check-in, flight, passport control, baggage collection or car hire.
Lovely views right down the east coast of the UK from the plane, across the Netherlands, then west Germany and Switzerland. Then across the Alps with fantastic vistas over Zurich, Andermatt and Lake Maggiore. Even better, we arrived in Terminal 1 (having expected Terminal 2), so no need to take a bus to the other terminal to pick up our car (Interrent, £83 for 9 days).
No particular rush after leaving the airport, so took a scenic route in evening light via the lovely old towns of Momo, Fara, Carpignano and Biella (they mightn't all have been lovely - I can't remember which was which!), with dinner at the latter. Then though a long tunnel to join the Aosta valley Autostrada after Borgofranco.
We are staying in a characterful but decently-sized Airbnb (£230 for 9 nights) in the centre of Aosta. Low wooden beams, bedroom under the eaves etc. No Wifi is the only drawback. There is a car park a few minutes away which is free between 6pm and 8am.
The Airbnb (sleeping area upstairs; kitchen separate)
La Thuile tomorrow...
Last edited by After all it is free  on Wed 23-03-22 14:41; edited 5 times in total
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Great trip down to resort and good morning!
The webcams in La Thuile looks like the weather's changing as does the forecast..... we're heading there on the 3rd. Looking forward to hearing today's report!
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Welcome to Aosta! Hope you have a great day in La Thuile.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@Gaz_H, @ElzP, thank you!
Friday 11 March - La Thuile
Piste map here.
Up bright and early this morning to head up the valley to La Thuile. The toll free route took about 50 mins on a wide but slowish road, with lots of hairpins on the last part. Purchased a 6 day lift pass (€226pp) and picked up hire skis & boots from Berthod Sports (€181 for 2 ppl, 8 days). The car park at the lift base has a €5 charge, but there is a smaller one a few hundred metres further up the road which is free.
Our first day skiing has unfortunately coincided with a change in weather pattern to a southeasterly flow, which means a lot of cloud and very light snow (not useful quantities) for the Aosta valley, and possible foehn wind towards the link with La Rosiere. It was coolish: below freezing everywhere and -5/-10C at the top. Cloud base was about halfway up the top lifts.
We are planning to spend 4 days in La Thuile / La Rosiere, so didn't risk heading over the border and getting stuck! We tried to leave the lowest runs for tomorrow (when the forecast is slightly worse), and instead explored all the runs above the top gondola station - front (Chaz Dura / Argilien) and back (Fourclaz / Piccolo San Bernardo) sides.
First impressions? Good lift system with lots of fast chairs. Quiet with no queues. Generally ample snow cover on the pistes, with only a few closed runs. Most of the closed runs (e.g. 17, 17A) do not appear to be shut due to lack of snow, and I've noticed they have been closed for the entire season. Very flattering run gradings - some of the blacks would be blue in many French resorts. Can't comment on the scenery as it was foggy or very hazy, but will hopefully see it in the coming days!
Not so good - lots of flat linking runs, made worse by slightly "grabby" snow conditions. I haven't had to pole so much for a long time! The worst one was red 7 - both at the top near the Belvedere chair, and further down beyond the Fourclaz chair. Later on it follows a summer road pass, which is very gentle and with thin snow but downhill at least  Snow quality is not great - best towards the French border. The runs around the Chaz Dura Express are a bit dull and similar to each other.
Lunch was at La Raclette by the lift base. Not great - to be avoided!
At the end of the day we swapped our skis for longer ones, which the hire shop staff were happy to do. I'm writing this from the journey back to Aosta - planning to stop at the Gros Cidac supermarket to pick up supplies.
Favourite runs - Belvedere 25 (easy black) on the back, the runs off the Piccolo San Bernardo chair (best snow) also on the back.
Les Suches - top of the gondola
Chaz Dura lifts from 20 Promenade (blue)
25 Belvédère (black) under the chair of the same name
Top of the San Bernardo pass
7 San Bernardo (red) - the pass road in summer
7 San Bernardo (red)
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Thu 24-03-22 0:28; edited 4 times in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I've skied La Thuile. In my memory, the best runs were those towards towards the pass road. Alongside Fourclaz Express and Piccolo San Bernardo express.
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@Onnem, I agree! Lots of good runs over there.
Saturday 12th March - La Thuile again
Back to La Thuile for more of the same today. Light snow overnight down to 1,000m or below, temporarily freshening some of the pistes and making everything look a bit prettier. Very light snow continued for most of the day, and it was cold (-10C at the top and our water bottle froze again) with a lower cloud base than yesterday. Fog was really thick at times. Our longer skis which we swapped yesterday are much better.
The electronic signboard at the lift base again suggested the weather was better on the French side, but that there was strong winds at the pass. So we again chickened out of skiing across. In the end the link lift managed to open mid morning and stayed open. Never mind!
In the morning the cloud base was barely above resort level so we stayed mostly in the trees, trying all the resort runs. These are all red or black and mostly steeper than the pistes higher up. Black 3 is properly steep if you start from the upper entrance. Black 2 was scraped down to blue ice by mid morning. Black 5 - easier with better snow. Red 4 - a mix of scenic parts and flat sections, and a mix of snow too. Red 6 - long and narrow but interesting, and the best snow. Red 7 - a flat road, with thin snow in places. There are also some very short but worthwhile runs off the Maison Blanche chair, including one very icy black which was probably the steepest in La Thuile!
Lunch in the self service restaurant at the top of the gondola. Cheap and cheerful, no complaints. Quiet as most people weren't venturing up that high.
In the afternoon the cloud base gradually rose a bit, generally hovering just above the gondola station. We picked off the upper mountain runs which we didn't have time for yesterday, staying on the edges of runs where we could still see a piste pole! By far the best run of the day was the full, top-to-bottom length of red 18 followed by red 6 - varied, good snow, quiet and the visibility was a bit better on that side.
La Thuile
La Thuile from the end of 6 La Nouva (red)
Maison Blanche slopes under the Bosco Express chair
37 Maison Blanche (black)
2 Diretta (black)
Chaz Dura chair - today's typical view!
A trip to La Famila supermarket in Morgex on the way back to pick up supplies for dinner / breakfast. I'm writing this from the passenger seat en route back to Aosta.
Weather forecast suggests two more cloudy or snowy days (possibly not as bad as today), and then two days of hot sunshine on Tue / Wed. Will probably save those for La Rosiere, so the next two days will be Pila / Courmayeur. Fingers crossed for a bit less fog!
Last edited by So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much  on Thu 24-03-22 0:41; edited 1 time in total
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You know it makes sense.
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Glad you had a decent day despite the cloud - thanks for the descriptions of the valley runs, i know which to choose next time.
Fingers crossed indeed, but the visibility in Pila today was awful, and tomorrow may be the same. Couis 1 was shut, but Couis 2 was open, and everywhere was very quiet except when a ski school snake occasionally appeared out of the mist.
There's been a bit of snow though! If you see someone skiing slowly and tentatively dressed all in black, say hello! We'll be back up there tomorrow unless it looks totally awful, the luxury of actual snow makes getting out feel imperative.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@ElzP, we didn't spot you today, but the fog might've been a factor in that how did you get on?
Sunday 13 March - Pila
Piste map here.
Today was the day for a visit to our "home" resort of Pila, reached by a three stage gondola from an enormous free car park in Aosta. Pila "resort" is at the top of the gondola and looks like a purpose built French resort. We could have walked the 10 minutes to the gondola from our apartment, but drove instead - my partner is finding his ski boots uncomfortable to walk in (they are fine for skiing).
Pila has around 50km of mostly north facing slopes in a broad bowl which gets steeper higher up, with lots of trees lower down. Altitudes range from 1550m (one run only, which had insufficient snow) to 2700m. It was much busier than La Thuile, but not unpleasantly so - no lift queues.
Weather followed the unpleasant theme of the previous two days: light snow (especially in the afternoon) and cloud to below the lowest slopes. No wind however, with lifts open to the top. Visibility was an improvement on yesterday; there were pockets of clarity in between cloud layers, which drifted around the ski area through the day with us trying to follow! We never got a view across the valley, which was a shame.
Natural snow is clearly in short supply here, with almost all the runs without snowmaking being closed. For example, Couis 1 only had a very stony red road open, and the Grimondet sector was entirely shut (no snowmaking).
Setting the snow and weather issues aside, we were impressed with Pila. Piste grooming was immaculate, and snow quality on the runs with snowmaking was superb - no ice anywhere. Signposting was also really good, which helped in the fog. Lift system is quite good except for the slow top chairs, which could do with upgrading. There is also a rather pointless cable car.
The wooded slopes are varied and interesting, with no surprises in terms of gradient. We loved the long reds 2 & 3 off the Chamolé chair (1 is probably also good but was shut). As @ElzP has said elsewhere, the Leissé reds are also excellent, and they were deserted as we got to them mid-afternoon.
Further up, black 10 from Couis 2 was our favourite out of the 3 top runs which were open (the other 4 were shut).
One criticism is that a lot of runs funnel onto blue 15, which became very busy as a result - it's also popular with beginners.
Lunch at the Piazzetta restaurant in Pila, which was quite good despite a language barrier issue. Small but I interesting menu: we had polenta with fontina cheese (€10), and a cod / sardine dish (€12).
Managed to ski all the open runs and repeat our favourites before catching the gondola back down at closing time. Then a wander around the east half of Aosta before dinner in the apartment again. I'll do a write up of Aosta itself later in the week.
Courmayeur tomorrow. Weather forecast is for more of the same, but perhaps a slight improvement (he says optimistically).
Black 10 from Couis 2
Red 9 from Couis 1
Thin snow at the top - magic carpet to (closed) black 27
Red 14 under the Leissé chair
Blue 15 - Pila's main thoroughfare
Last edited by Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: on Thu 24-03-22 2:03; edited 3 times in total
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Poster: A snowHead
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Which car hire company please?
That’s a steal
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@denfinella, looks like a fair amount of snow this morning according to the webcam in La Thuile.
Might be worth a change of plan depending on Courmayuers conditions
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@denfinella, glad you enjoyed Pila despite the weather! We wussed out yesterday, both woke up feeling a bit ropey and decided to have a duvet day. We went up this morning though for our pre-work couple of hours and it was superb, a couple of inches and more on top of groomed pistes, and the sun stayed was out (cloud has descended again now according to the view from our window). We were nearly first lift and run 2 from Chamole was untouched. Gorgeous! Lots of whooping and being over excited.
Have fun in Courmeyeur if that's where you ended up, look forward to hearing your impressions!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@Mike Pow, Interrent. Booked through Autoeurope towards the end of 2021.
@Gaz_H, similar in Courmayeur!
@ElzP, glad you had a good morning up there. That Chamolé run is lovely isn't it
Monday 14 March - Courmayeur
Piste map here.
An excellent day skiing today - more like the Alps we know and love. For a start, it was the first morning when we could see the summits from our apartment in Aosta. Headed back up the valley and parked in the free outdoor car park at Dolonne, as advised.
Overnight there had been a few centimetres of snow down to well below 1,000m all along the valley, and maybe 10cm at a push towards the top of the ski area - more than forecast. Lovely light texture, improving the pistes for the morning. Later in the day, some of the sunnier or lower runs became a bit heavy as the temperature rose above freezing.
There was a thick cloud layer at first, but we could see on the webcam that the two top cable cars were above it. So up we went to ski the wide Youla red in glorious sunshine and half empty cable cars, before other people got the same idea. The cable cars are tiny so could build some serious queues on busy days. By late morning the inversion layer dissipated, with a sunny middle part of the day throughout the ski area before it got a bit hazier later on.
Courmayeur has a "big resort" feel with 5 cable cars, 2 gondolas and several fast chairs, but the ski area is small. The 100km claimed on the piste map is well over double the true figure, and we easily had time to ski every run. There was plenty of snowmaking, reasonable natural snow cover (the north or east aspect helps), and almost every run was open - the main closure was both the runs from the very top cable car. We went up anyway for the view, but decided against skiing down on the closed piste (though others were doing so).
The ski area splits into two parts - the front side under the Checrouit gondola has a row of open, motorway reds which are all very similar to each other (and the cable cars above). On the back side, four chairlifts serve a steeper, wooded and much more interesting side. This is also where the best views are, with lots of glaciers to gaze at, flowing off the sides of Mont Blanc. I'm so glad the weather was good enough to see it all.
Some of the steeper runs were a bit icy underneath the new snow. But I have a bigger criticism concerning the blues - these are almost all narrow and busy roads, with barely any "proper" blue pistes. Not at all recommended for blue run skiers.
Pistes were busy in the morning - with skiers attempting runs which were too difficult for them, and also with skiers going too fast for the conditions and busyness. But at lunchtime they all disappeared (we had a packed lunch on the lifts), and the afternoon was completely deserted - strange!
Best runs: all of the pistes off the Bertolini and Gabba chairlifts on the backside. Plus the Youla red at the top for the views.
Finished up with an icy / slushy but strangely enjoyable home run to Dolonne surrounded by brown grass, as the new snow had all melted lower down. Then looked around Courmayeur, which left us feeling a bit common - there is an entire shop for dog handbags. We're now driving back to Aosta in our cheap hire car to find somewhere more down to earth for dinner
Mont Blanc from the top of the tiny Arp cable car
Looking south to the Glacier del Rutor
21 Youla (red)
23 Des Eves on the back side
Moraine from 27 Lassy (red)
Miage Glacier from 2 Val Veny (blue)
Checrouit (front) side from 6 Pra Nayron (blue)
Motorway reds under the Aretù chair
Checrouit gondola
29 Pista del Cervo (red)
25 Dolonne (red) home run
We've two more days remaining on our 6 day lift pass, which have to be spent in La Thuile / La Rosiere - so it's time to explore the latter! Weather forecast looks OK-ish, especially on the French side. High temperatures though, so I'm looking forward to some slushy moguls on the south facing runs (which is all of them).
Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Thu 24-03-22 2:04; edited 2 times in total
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@denfinella, I’m really enjoying g the trip report, thanks.
The shops in Courmayuer are interesting, many with eye watering prices, I always find it amazing that they have a Lamborghini showroom in the middle of Via Roma, one day maybe if my numbers come up
My favourite run is 19 off the top of Gabba lift, it’s usually deserted around lunch , it’s been lapped many many times!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Great read as always! Completely agree on the blues, as a beginner or someone who's lacking in confidence it's not ideal. Glad you got the views - it's pretty good for that!
In our cups we made up a whole new marketing jingle up for Courmayeur, along the lines of 'Courmayeur - it's a bit weird'... your tale of people disappearing off the slopes fits right in!
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| denfinella wrote: |
@Mike Pow, Interrent. Booked through Autoeurope towards the end of 2021.
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Many thanks
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| denfinella wrote: |
Uh oh! The weather forecasts I have been using predicted 2cm of overnight snow and a snowline of around 1400m (i.e. approximately La Thuile level). However, it chucked it down all night in Aosta, and is currently 2C with heavy sleet... at under 600m!
If we can get up to La Thuile it may be a powder day, but we are talking about an Italian hire car (with summer tyres), and we haven't practised putting on snow chains  |
Dump the car in Pre St Didier, jump on the bus (assuming that's running, but I suspect they keep running through all sorts of weather)!
Normal bus - https://arriva.it/app/uploads/sites/3/2020/07/10012022_La-Thuile-Courmayeur.pdf
Ski bus (but not sure this is running) - https://arriva.it/app/uploads/sites/3/2021/12/WINTERBUS-dal-26-12-2021.pdf
Last edited by You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. on Tue 15-03-22 7:48; edited 1 time in total
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@ElzP, ha, crossed post - yes we are hoping to do that!
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