![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Poster: A snowHead
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Bravo @WASHOUT and ditto plaudits to @spyderjon’s drill guide - I’ve QK’ed two pairs of skis myself (both second-hand) with it but have entrusted any new skis to @spyderjon -
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Should I be gluing the binding screws in place or just tighten?
If I should be gluing what adhesive is recommended ?
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@bigtoe, Always glue the screws with waterproof (exterior) wood glue, if it's a lightweight core I use epoxy. If the epoxied screws need to be removed for any reason at a later date, holding a soldering iron on the head of the screw for several seconds softens it enough to be easily unscrewed.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@KenX, many thanks, I have some old Cham 97 skis which I have remounted with the same bindings ( new ones) thanks to @spyderjon Who identified earlier this year which bindings I needed to fit in the same holes that the original owner had removed before selling . So the screw holes all matched up and went in without a problem.
Any particular male of wood glue? I have waterproof no nonsense PVA would that suit? I do notice when it gets wet it goes white !
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@bigtoe, so long as it's waterproof wood glue, ypu're good!
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Thanks @KenX,
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Can I put M8 inserts into current binding, Meidjo 3, screw holes?? Original holes were 3.6mm drill then standard 5.5mm screws. M8 inserts would require drilling out to 6.5mm and tapping 8mm for insert.
And secondly, would M8 inserts work in Head EVO 14 ski plate (WorldCup Rebels E-SL)?? I would lock in with thread sealant. Again to suit Meidjo 3 bindings?
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@colinstone,
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Can I put M8 inserts into current binding...screw holes?
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Not a problem - 1st time I did it I was slightly concerned that I didn't have a point to centre the drill bit over, so marked the holes with N/S & E/W lines, then drilled a polycarbonate template with cross-hairs which I could use to accurately locate the centre of the drill.
Maybe overkill, but worked a treat (and you've got loads of holes if you're mounting Meidjos )
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Another question about the Head EVO plate which I have now removed. It is a honeycomb thermo plastic, PA6 GF45, structure with pre drilled pilot holes going into moulded tubes for the screw threads.
I'm wondering if I can fill a couple of the honeycomb voids with epoxy or epoxy with a filler powder, like sawdust, so I can put screws where there are no pre drilled holes??
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@colinstone, jbweld has different filler powder incorporated, usually aluminium powder for the most common type that may be of use to you.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Also, an ad-hoc strength material to give structure is to use cotton/denim anything old clean washed cotton base, just cut to shape and use layers applied with epoxy to fully wet out the material to give cotton composite structure.
Fine citton t-shirt material being one of the best advanced composite laminate.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I have a question I expect some of you will know. Will marker griffon id 13 fit the same screw patterns as jesters from a decade ago?
I've got quiver killer setup and was hoping to switch them over myself
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You know it makes sense.
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Lost in the trees wrote: |
I have a question I expect some of you will know. Will marker griffon id 13 fit the same screw patterns as jesters from a decade ago?........ |
Yes
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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I have a question about tapping. Absolutely necessary? I have some skis that I want to swap the bindings on and I have peered down the old holes and there's definitely a metal layer down there.
Can I use a more commercially available tap? Or maybe a long binding screw with slots cut in it? I have harvested a few spares from an old pair of skis.
After taking the old binding off I discovered rampant volcano-ing! I also suspect that the old bindings were not precisely aligned as they differ very slightly in placement between the left and right skis.
What's the recommended minimum distance between old and new holes with a metal layer? I've put a paper template for the new binding (Marker Squire) over the existing binding holes (Atomic STH13) and it looks a bit close. I've gone up in boot size slightly from what the original mountings were set for and exceeded the original installation max boot length which is what has prompted me to do the binding swap in the first place.
I will be 3d printing a custom hole jig once I've got the new bindings in my hands and confirmed hole pattern etc. I can print a 1mm thick test plate and line it up on the bottom of the binding. I'll use a laminated paper boot length scale to go with it.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Poster: A snowHead
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I used to have a binding screw with slots before I invested in a tap! The binding thread is pretty unique so a purpose-built tap is the way to go if you're buying one, the size you need is 12AB......
Re spacing, I reckon 3-4mm between outside of the holes is ok, much less and I'd consider fitting inserts.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Hi all. I have some Marker Squire bindings and I'm trying to fit them to a set of skis that has actually had 3 sets of bindings previously. The toe plate avoids all previous holes by a wide margin so that's fine. It's the heel plate. I can't seem to avoid existing holes with enough safety margin. My question is this: Can I get 'longer' heel binding mounting plates to help me avoid the old holes? A bit like demo binding plates but just for the heel. I only need an extra 10mm and I've got loads of clearance.
Thanks in advance.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@Deveron53, Think you'll be lucky. It's odd to be able to able to mount 4 times on skis without some clash. If you know all the preceding hole patterns you might find @spyderjon can use his rainman like powers to identify a binding that won't clash or a demo binding might allow you to mount in the "wrong" place and adjust to a sensible binding position.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Deveron53 wrote: |
... The toe plate avoids all previous holes by a wide margin so that's fine. It's the heel plate. I can't seem to avoid existing holes with enough safety margin. .... |
Hi @Deveron53
These are skis I've had 3 sets of interchangeable bindings mounted with QKs (Tele; alpine; AT) - are you sure you can't just move the bindings back/forward a tad so that the rear holes have the required 10mm clearance... OK: the boot centre may not quite meet the centre mark on the ski, but +-10mm is unlikely to be noticeable when skiing on them
Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Wed 21-06-23 13:39; edited 1 time in total
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@geoffers this may seem radical and risky but has anyone ever drilled a new pair of holes in a plastic heel plate? Or, enlarged a pair of holes slightly to meet the existing holes in a ski? I can use the rear pair of holes and use fresh, strong new holes in the ski, and these are the holes that take most of the forces? Correct? The holes under the brake area don't take as much force I think. I have precision drilling facilities so can make very accurate holes.
So my plan is as follows:
Rear holes original in binding plate - brand new in ski;
Mid holes brand new in binding plate - brand new in ski;
Front holes existing in binding plate but ovalised outwards very slightly to meet existing holes in ski.
What do you think? 6 screws in total.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@Deveron53, if the front holes for the heel plate very nearly line up, have you considered mounting these with inserts? Quiver killers are quite a bit wider than binding screws so if the mismatch is only 1mm or so, you may well find that the new holes completely overlap the old ones. Depending on what drilling facilities you have, you might want/need to plug the old holes first but that's probably still less hassle and risk than drilling new holes in the mounting plate and making others bigger.
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mgrolf wrote: |
@Deveron53, if the front holes for the heel plate very nearly line up, have you considered mounting these with inserts? Quiver killers are quite a bit wider than binding screws so if the mismatch is only 1mm or so, you may well find that the new holes completely overlap the old ones. Depending on what drilling facilities you have, you might want/need to plug the old holes first but that's probably still less hassle and risk than drilling new holes in the mounting plate and making others bigger. |
Thanks, I might look into it. I've managed to find a spare set of heel mounting plates so i can have a sort of 'play'. But quiver killer inserts sound a good solution. How much do you think they can 'move' the hole by?
I have PMed you about a completely different matter...
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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On the topic of using making a larger hole to move the centre of the hole for or aft, this is exactly what was done to accommodate larger soled new boots with my fixed position Dynafit Superlite 2 bindings by Backcountry in Otley. They used helicoils which were plenty strong.
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Deveron53 wrote: |
Hi all. I have some Marker Squire bindings and I'm trying to fit them to a set of skis that has actually had 3 sets of bindings previously. The toe plate avoids all previous holes by a wide margin so that's fine. It's the heel plate. I can't seem to avoid existing holes with enough safety margin. My question is this: Can I get 'longer' heel binding mounting plates to help me avoid the old holes? A bit like demo binding plates but just for the heel. I only need an extra 10mm and I've got loads of clearance.
Thanks in advance. |
can you drill the heel plate a new set of holes that can avoid the holes in the ski? or if really lucky, match the holes in the ski
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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pski wrote: |
Deveron53 wrote: |
Hi all. I have some Marker Squire bindings and I'm trying to fit them to a set of skis that has actually had 3 sets of bindings previously. The toe plate avoids all previous holes by a wide margin so that's fine. It's the heel plate. I can't seem to avoid existing holes with enough safety margin. My question is this: Can I get 'longer' heel binding mounting plates to help me avoid the old holes? A bit like demo binding plates but just for the heel. I only need an extra 10mm and I've got loads of clearance.
Thanks in advance. |
can you drill the heel plate a new set of holes that can avoid the holes in the ski? or if really lucky, match the holes in the ski |
It's not easy finding a suitable place to drill the heel plate. It isn't completely 'solid' as it has a web of cutouts on the underside. I plan on installing freedom inserts on the heel only as I can 'move' some of the holes a couple of mm inwards to match up with the heel plate holes on a pair of the holes at least. I'm going to use a 5mm flute ended milling drill bit in a pillar drill to precisely align the new holes. I will 3d print a drill template so I can get the perfect hole position. All in hand!
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@Deveron53
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I will 3d print a drill template so I can get the perfect hole position. |
Wow - quite a cool project ...
I just got some 4mm perspex from the scrap-bin of a local plastics company and accurately drilled that, then scribed a N-S and E-W line on it that I could line up on the c/l and mid-point of the ski
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geoffers wrote: |
@Deveron53
Quote: |
I will 3d print a drill template so I can get the perfect hole position. |
Wow - quite a cool project ...
I just got some 4mm perspex from the scrap-bin of a local plastics company and accurately drilled that, then scribed a N-S and E-W line on it that I could line up on the c/l and mid-point of the ski |
I managed to find some amazing skis: Atomic Backland 102. For £30 !!! And I'm fitting Squire IDs to them so I want to maximise the lightness. As I also have very light boots (K2 FL3X). That's at the heart of my 'special project'!
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