DIY binding mounting

A snowHead

Bravo @WASHOUT and ditto plaudits to @spyderjon’s drill guide - I’ve QK’ed two pairs of skis myself (both second-hand) with it but have entrusted any new skis to @spyderjon -

A snowHead

Should I be gluing the binding screws in place or just tighten?
If I should be gluing what adhesive is recommended ?

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@bigtoe, Always glue the screws with waterproof (exterior) wood glue, if it's a lightweight core I use epoxy. If the epoxied screws need to be removed for any reason at a later date, holding a soldering iron on the head of the screw for several seconds softens it enough to be easily unscrewed.

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@KenX, many thanks, I have some old Cham 97 skis which I have remounted with the same bindings ( new ones) thanks to @spyderjon Who identified earlier this year which bindings I needed to fit in the same holes that the original owner had removed before selling . So the screw holes all matched up and went in without a problem.
Any particular male of wood glue? I have waterproof no nonsense PVA would that suit? I do notice when it gets wet it goes white !

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@bigtoe, so long as it's waterproof wood glue, ypu're good!

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Thanks @KenX,

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Can I put M8 inserts into current binding, Meidjo 3, screw holes?? Original holes were 3.6mm drill then standard 5.5mm screws. M8 inserts would require drilling out to 6.5mm and tapping 8mm for insert.
And secondly, would M8 inserts work in Head EVO 14 ski plate (WorldCup Rebels E-SL)?? I would lock in with thread sealant. Again to suit Meidjo 3 bindings?

After all it is free

@colinstone,

Another question about the Head EVO plate which I have now removed. It is a honeycomb thermo plastic, PA6 GF45, structure with pre drilled pilot holes going into moulded tubes for the screw threads.
I'm wondering if I can fill a couple of the honeycomb voids with epoxy or epoxy with a filler powder, like sawdust, so I can put screws where there are no pre drilled holes??

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@colinstone, jbweld has different filler powder incorporated, usually aluminium powder for the most common type that may be of use to you.

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Also, an ad-hoc strength material to give structure is to use cotton/denim anything old clean washed cotton base, just cut to shape and use layers applied with epoxy to fully wet out the material to give cotton composite structure.

Fine citton t-shirt material being one of the best advanced Very Happy

composite laminate.

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I have a question I expect some of you will know. Will marker griffon id 13 fit the same screw patterns as jesters from a decade ago?

I've got quiver killer setup and was hoping to switch them over myself

@Lost in the trees, Check out the templates here ... https://www.bindingfreedom.com/pages.php?pageid=5
They've got templates for jester & griffon which appear to be the same

Also check the paper templates thread on TGR...
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/153971-Binding-Mount-Paper-Templates

You know it makes sense.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

I have a question about tapping. Absolutely necessary? I have some skis that I want to swap the bindings on and I have peered down the old holes and there's definitely a metal layer down there.
Can I use a more commercially available tap? Or maybe a long binding screw with slots cut in it? I have harvested a few spares from an old pair of skis.

After taking the old binding off I discovered rampant volcano-ing! I also suspect that the old bindings were not precisely aligned as they differ very slightly in placement between the left and right skis.

What's the recommended minimum distance between old and new holes with a metal layer? I've put a paper template for the new binding (Marker Squire) over the existing binding holes (Atomic STH13) and it looks a bit close. I've gone up in boot size slightly from what the original mountings were set for and exceeded the original installation max boot length which is what has prompted me to do the binding swap in the first place.

I will be 3d printing a custom hole jig once I've got the new bindings in my hands and confirmed hole pattern etc. I can print a 1mm thick test plate and line it up on the bottom of the binding. I'll use a laminated paper boot length scale to go with it.

A snowHead

I used to have a binding screw with slots before I invested in a tap! The binding thread is pretty unique so a purpose-built tap is the way to go if you're buying one, the size you need is 12AB......
Re spacing, I reckon 3-4mm between outside of the holes is ok, much less and I'd consider fitting inserts.

A snowHead

Hi all. I have some Marker Squire bindings and I'm trying to fit them to a set of skis that has actually had 3 sets of bindings previously. The toe plate avoids all previous holes by a wide margin so that's fine. It's the heel plate. I can't seem to avoid existing holes with enough safety margin. My question is this: Can I get 'longer' heel binding mounting plates to help me avoid the old holes? A bit like demo binding plates but just for the heel. I only need an extra 10mm and I've got loads of clearance.
Thanks in advance.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

@Deveron53, Think you'll be lucky. It's odd to be able to able to mount 4 times on skis without some clash. If you know all the preceding hole patterns you might find @spyderjon can use his rainman like powers to identify a binding that won't clash or a demo binding might allow you to mount in the "wrong" place and adjust to a sensible binding position.

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@geoffers this may seem radical and risky but has anyone ever drilled a new pair of holes in a plastic heel plate? Or, enlarged a pair of holes slightly to meet the existing holes in a ski? I can use the rear pair of holes and use fresh, strong new holes in the ski, and these are the holes that take most of the forces? Correct? The holes under the brake area don't take as much force I think. I have precision drilling facilities so can make very accurate holes.
So my plan is as follows:
Rear holes original in binding plate - brand new in ski;
Mid holes brand new in binding plate - brand new in ski;
Front holes existing in binding plate but ovalised outwards very slightly to meet existing holes in ski.
What do you think? 6 screws in total.

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@Deveron53, if the front holes for the heel plate very nearly line up, have you considered mounting these with inserts? Quiver killers are quite a bit wider than binding screws so if the mismatch is only 1mm or so, you may well find that the new holes completely overlap the old ones. Depending on what drilling facilities you have, you might want/need to plug the old holes first but that's probably still less hassle and risk than drilling new holes in the mounting plate and making others bigger.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

After all it is free

@Deveron53, There are also QK repair inserts which Jon Coster sells which are 11mm diameter, so would give you a larger factor of adjustment if repositioning the holes in the ski

https://www.thepisteoffice.com/index.php/com-virtuemart/com-virtuemart-menu-categories/the-piste-office-store/quiver-killer-inserts

Regarding hole clash - you could be radical & do what I did, using an HDPE shim (10mm cutting board) - the bindings were Outlaw-X telemark bindings with 6 holes...

1) the rear 4 went through the shim into QKs mounted in the ski, using longer machine-screws
2) the front 2 were screwed into captive nuts which I'd mounted into the shim
3) the front of the shim itself was mounted to 3 existing QKs in the ski, which were surrounding & very close to the captive nuts

Considering the pull-out forces on Tele-bindings tend to be much more than Alpine, this rig served me well with no problems - no kittens died doing this snowHead

On the topic of using making a larger hole to move the centre of the hole for or aft, this is exactly what was done to accommodate larger soled new boots with my fixed position Dynafit Superlite 2 bindings by Backcountry in Otley. They used helicoils which were plenty strong.

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@Deveron53

Help!!

DIY binding mounting

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