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servicing salomon bindings - brakes

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Does anybody know much about binding servicing?

My brakes have started sticking open. It is a bit worrying when you take them off outside an umbrella bar on a slight incline and they go shooting through the drinking crowd. It could be dangerous; for example, somebody could easily spill their schnapps.

I've taken the brakes off, they are separate to the rest of the rear binding. (model: S912TI)

Is it just a matter of removing the dirty grease e.g. with meths and a toothbrush and smearing some fresh grease around anything that moves? I trust lithium cycle grease (for wheel bearings etc.) would be ok for this?

Does the rest of the binding ever need servicing? They are not that old and I have had no other problems with them. (I guess this would not be a DIY job)

thanks.

M
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
elbrus55, yes to your suggested work on the brakes. And no, you don't need to do anything to the actual bindings although the manual toe height & wing adjustment on those bindings have a tendancy to 'self-adjust' to too large a size so I'd get recommend regularly checking that.
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spyderjon - Thanks.

I wasn't very successful though!

One of the "screw rivets" holding the two metal plates together just fell out as I was cleaning, I had to retrieve it from the drain - I'm not sure if those rivets are supposed to come out, though it did make it easier to clean and regrease as you could rotate the plates. However, on rotating the plates back to their original position the lower plate (looking from underneath that is) snapped around the remaining rivet.

I have a pair of brakes from a very old Salomon binding which I thought I might be able to dismantle to replace the broken metal plate but the screw rivets are very solid, I'm not sure I can dismantle without damaging it.

Any suggestions? Does anyone have, or can get, a spare brake for this sort of binding? Do you think Salomon might send me a new one? It seems unnecessary to get whole new bindings.

Photo (Showing broken plate)
https://plus.google.com/photos/108802522689950841637/albums/5843352075994585137?authkey=CNKoxaapzqWWVg
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Salomon brakes are easy enough to come by, and I think that all of their alpine bindings take exactly the same kind of brake. What size are you needing? I have a set lying around here somewhere I could part with for a small sum.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Thanks - fixed now.

I managed to rip apart the old brakes (I had kept the brakes from a late 1980's bindings) and got the component I needed without damaging it.

If anybody else is doing this, I'd recommend not moving the plates apart more than necessary to get the brake levers out, you can clean between the plates with a cloth-wrapped screwdriver, and then hammer the rivets to tighten them again. There are metal tabs at the front of the brakes which you need to engage before screwing them back on.
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Serriadh wrote:
I think that all of their alpine bindings take exactly the same kind of brake.


Sadly not, the brakes for the older pre-Spheric and recent STH and racing bindings (metal 916/920s) are different from the standard ones.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
elbrus55, dude - I would think and then think again about hammering away at a binding whilst on a ski to re-set a rivet. If it's a true rivet, it would need a former made of harder metal than the metal the rivet is compose of to 'set' it and if not then you should not be hammering it anyway. In any event, I would not do it without de-mounting the binding - acrylic does not make a good former for the exercise.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
RattytheSnowRat - (most) salomon brakes can be removed separately from the ski and rear binding via a single Posi3 screw. See the photo link. I wouldn't muck around with my bindings like this as they are too safety critical.

It is not really a rivet, no idea how to describe it - "positioning pin" maybe but it has a thread on for friction- you can see one in the photo. It goes into the plastic so probably it is more like tapping with a hammer, than hammering (unless you are really annoyed). It has a flat head so doesn't take a screwdriver. I suspect that when you put the brake back on the binding the pin cannot come out because of clearance against the binding base, so the friction isn't that important. Hard to explain.
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It's a fast drive positioning screw that holds the plate in place - use a pair of needle nose pliers and a very small amount of lock-tite to put it back - don't hammer it. FYI - I don't believe that it is designed to be removed in the first place. Next time I recommend you flush with WD40 using a 'straw' nozzle then use a clean, lint free cloth to soak off the excess. Then use the lithium grease, although graphite might be better. Jon's the SH expert tho' .....
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