 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi,
Having hired Kastle LX82s for a couple of days, I've purchased a pair. Great skis, do everything. Unfortunately I've lost trust in the set up of the bindings. My hire skis were set to 6 (the DIN I usually use), but the same shop set my purchased pair to 9. I've reduced these back to 6. I then looked at the forward pressure indicator. I expected to see the screw head flush to the binding case when the boot was in the binding. This was not the case. The screw has a grove cut into it around the circumference, perhaps 5mm from the screw head. It is this grove that aligns to the binding case when the boot is in the binding. Is this correct? If so, I've not seen this type of indicator before. Your help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Does the binding channel have a dip with a shiny surface? This is where the knurled part of the screw head should align. Failing this type the binding model into Google with request for installation manual this will bring up all you need
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| Cynic wrote: |
| ....... type the binding model into Google with request for installation manual this will bring up all you need |
Unless it's a Marker binding; they prefer to let you play around with it without instructions 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Thank you for the quick replies. Yes, this is a Marker binding. A binding made specifically for Kastle. I've spent hours looking for an answer via google! This link will give you a picture of the binding.
http://www.skiershop.com/marker-k12-cti-bindings/
I'm not sure what you mean by binding channel. With Marker bindings I've always aligned the head of the screw with the back wall of the binding (when the boot is fitted). In this case the shop has left the head sticking out and the grove on the circumference of the screw aligns with the back wall of the binding. Hence my question. Any further ideas?
Thanks.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Looks like a marker rental binding like they use on the RTM's.... Is the binding adjusted in the middle of the binding by lifting a plate? The one pictured I would imagine would have the normal screw at the back.
If its the type I'm thinking of then when the boot is clicked in there are white lines on a plastic thing where the screw used to be. The back of the binding should line up with these white lines
maybe post pictures of the actual bindings
Dan
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Deleted
Last edited by You'll need to Register first of course. on Wed 2-01-13 17:15; edited 1 time in total
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Hi Dan,
Thanks for coming back to me. This is not a rental binding. Both the toe and heel sections are screwed directly onto the ski without a connecting bar in between the two pieces. It is a traditional screw in the heel section that adjusts the boot length. The forward pressure alignment is between the back of that heel section and that screw. My only concern is the following? Do I align with the top of the screw head, or the ring cut into the screw (5 mm from the top of the screw head) with the back of the binding? I don't have access to the skis for a couple of days and so I hope my description is enough to work from. Thanks again.
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Most Marker and Atomic usually align totally flush with the case end, the knurled part is the maximum that can peep out.
On some of the race bindings the knurled screw must not be further back than the lower part of the heel chassis which has striations on it, but I do not think you have that sort of binding.
The Atomic binding should not be screwed with the boot in situ, but I have used lots of Markers for years and they do not seem to be damaged by doing this.
Your binding makes a claim of a different toe piece talking of releasing at your! Pressure, the older Markers has a habit of pre releasing so this is their USP of the combination.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Hi Cynic,
Thanks for your comments. I think the mist is lifting.
You said........ the knurled part is the maximum that can peep out.
The grove that I've talked about is at the bottom of the knurled section of the screw and so I suspect it marks the extreme of the adjustment, the lightest setting. The knurled head flush with the housing may be the highest setting. If so, this is the range of adjustment. I guess that makes sense, the shop putting it on the lightest setting (accepting that they put the DIN right up a 9 and not 6).
I'm not sure that I understand your second point.........Your binding makes a claim of a different toe piece talking of releasing at your! Pressure, the older Markers has a habit of pre releasing so this is their USP of the combination.
Would you expand please? Sorry! But thank for your help, I appreciate it.
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| Quote: |
I'm not sure that I understand your second point.........Your binding makes a claim of a different toe piece talking of releasing at your! Pressure, the older Markers has a habit of pre releasing so this is their USP of the combination.
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Marker bindings had a habit of pre-releasing many years ago your binding has a Kastle toe piece and Marker heel according to the blurb I saw and the reasoning is that the Kastle toe piece will stop the problem.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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I assume you know din setting has nothing to do with forward pressure setting. Whoever set the binding on 9 thought you were heavy, tall, had small feet, you are under 50 and you said your were a very agressive expert skier, if so they were probably set correctly if he was using a chart. If you are not he wasn't and you have been given 6 as your normal din by using a chart then 6 it is.
There is only one FPS set the screw flush with the end of the housing, however if your boot size does not conform with the binding set up it is OK to have the screw knurled head peeping out rather than the screw head being inside the housing (pressure too high)
Really need a picture of the heel piece with the lever up so we can see the rabbit as over the years things change.
For god sake someone must have a pair of these bl**dy things.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I hope this image works, I've not done this before!
Please see the photo as requested. I've highlighted the grove around the circumference of the the screw 5mm back from the top of it. Does this help? Is the correct forward pressure adjustment the alignment of this grove with the back of the binding, or the head of the screw flush with the back of the binding (when the boot is fitted)? Or, is this the range of the adjustment so that anywhere between is OK? Thanks.
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You know it makes sense.
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Screw needs to sit flush with the back of the binding, the line that is 5mm out is to be used if the boot sole length is under a 285 sole length from memory. as above din of 9 is pretty hard to obtain on a chart... check it with your details at www.dinsetting.com or alternitively (and prob most sensible) take it into your local ski shop and get it checked before you use it!
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Thanks for your reply. The answer is as I suspected. It was a ski shop the failed to set both the forward pressure and DIN setting correctly and hence this discussion. In any event, I'm grateful to those who have contributed.
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