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Review of Austrian (Tirol/East Tirol) Ski Areas 2011/12 (around 50 ski areas reviewed)

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
These reviews are all from visits this winter (2011/12). Obviously personal and subjective opinions of my own.

Igls (Patscherkofel)
Ok small area with some higher lifts. Slopes ranging from blue to hard red but nothing black. Can be reached by free bus from Innsbruck. A couple of chairs at the top offer the best blues/reds.

Innsbruck (Nordkette)
Good small area with mainly higher lifts. Slopes ranging red to ski route with limited blues. Reached by free bus or new lift/train from Innsbruck. Main bowl and the runs to the valley station are great.

Tulfes (Glungezer)
Ok small area with mainly higher lifts. Slopes ranging from blue to red. Reached by free bus from Innsbruck. The top chair offers the most interesting area.

Mutters/Gotzens (Muttereralm)
Good smaller area for beginners with some higher lifts but probably best when good snow lower. Nice red to Gotzens and nice blues towards Mutters. Free bus from Innsbruck.

Axamer Lizum
Disappointed by this area after reviews. It is fine but nothing special. Mainly blues to harder reds. Didn't do the connection to Mutters ski area but believe this was still possible. I was given bad advice that it wasn't but people were skiing it. Free bus from Innsbruck to either base.

Oberperfuss (Rangger Kopfl)
Nice area for beginners but again small. Only drags at the top though! Free bus from Innsbruck.

Kuhtai
A good sized area. I thought comparitively better than Axamer Lizum. Slopes high but top to bottom only and an easy link into Hochoetz via a free bus. Also a free bus from Innsbruck.

Oetz (Hochoetz)
Again a nice area and linked to Kuhtai by free bus. Jointly these areas offer the best skiing close to Innsbruck for general skiers although Nordkete is still best for pros.

Fulpmes (Schlick 2000)
An ok area but again not really much better than the other smaller areas above. A free bus from Innsbruck.

Steinach am Brenner (Bergeralm)
One of the best smaller areas for all range of skiers. Pistes range from blues to black and you have lfts to stay high. A good choice.

Seefeld (Gschwandtkopf)
A nice half day skiing on one hill. Basically one very wide slope on the front-side with options for beginners and intermediates. Some other pleasent runs off either side. Easily reached by train from Innsbruck.

Seefeld (Rosshutte)
Another interesting area for its small size. Some harder runs higher and the lower runs are easier.

Ehrwald (Wettersteinbahnen)
An ok area for half a day with mainly blue and red runs.

Ehrwald (Ehrwalder Almbahn)
A good area for its smaller size. Perhaps one of the best for beginners and early intermediates.

Nesselwangle
Basically one nice red run.

Tannheim
Again basically one nice red run.

Schattwald/Zoblen
A few more runs between two chair lifts. Not bad but still small.

Gran
A bouble lift offering a fun long harder blue type run to the base. A chair offering short runs at the top.

Fugen (Spieljoch)
A nice area for its size. A good run to the base and a nice red off one of the chairs at the top. Mainly chairs/drags at the top if needed.

Kaltenbach (Hochzillertal) and Hochfugen
A good larger linked area. This area should be skied far more by the British. Mainly blue/red runs for intermediates. Lots of higher chairs. Modern and well managed. Lift open from 7.30am in Kaltenbach and you can also link to Spieljoch by free ski bus from Hichfugen. Easy to reach Kaltenbach by free train from the valley villages. Harder runs are on the link side in Hochfugen.

Zillertal Arena
Again a good larger linked area that is neglected by the British. You can travel a long way and return by bus or on skis. The best skiing is on the Zell end. Mainly blue/reds but some harder blacks too.

Mayrhofen
This probably reviewed lots so shalln't comment more than to say it is a good area but by no means better than the two above. I didn't visit the glacier. The smaller Mayrhofen Ahorn area offers the best beginner slopes with a good modern beginner chair at the top. Nice intermediate run to Mayrhofen.

Kitzbuhel
A large area with some travelling possible. Actually found the Kitzbuhel end at the top a little difficult to navigate and lots of flats. Must be lots of reviews so shalln't comment more.

Ski Welt
Again a good area and well known. Not so many flats as Kitzbuhel and some more difficult runs if required (it is not all blues as some would assume). Takes time to go from end to end and if you travel from Soll to Ellmau and back you have to travel a certain route meaning you will repeat a lot of runs if you do this a few times during a week.

Kossen (Hochkossen)
A small but ok area with mainly blue/reds.

Walchsee (Zahmer Kaiser)
An ok but small area. In good snow it's worth a short half day visit.

Sillian (Hochpustertal)
Not as large as suggested. One hill with a nice red to the base. Runs mainly blue/reds.

Lienz (Zettersfeld)
Mainly blues/reds but all on higher slopes. Not bad for beginners. Free bus between areas and the centre.

Lienz (Hochstein)
A more difficult ski area but small. Runs are mainly harder red types.

Kals/Matrei (Grossglockner)
A good area for intermediates and advanced. Some good runs from the other hill on the Kals side. The Matrei side has some easier slopes. Couldn't ski the run to Matrei as closed for lack of snow.

Obertilliach
Not a lot of skiing at the top but two nice long reds to the base.

Spittal (Goldeck)
Not a lot on offer. Some easy blue skiing at the top. A long black to the new lift station but not open. Two modern chairs at the top though for the easy runs.

Niederau
Some harder red types rus to the base. Have to ski top to bottom except for a small beginner area at the top. Lots of annoying flats to get between the left/right side of the mountain at top or bottom. Ok for a day but not more and better small areas on offer.

Auffach
Better than Niederau with some modern chairs at the top. Mainly harder blues and easier reds. Linked to Alpbach next year which will make a good mid size area.

Alpbach
A pleasent area better than the Niederau area but soon linked to Auffach. Some runs/lifts to stay high and a few different areas to ski in rather than one big hill. Skiing is a mixture from easier black to blue. Not bad.

Reith
A small area linked by free bus to Alpbach. Close to the main road but not lot on offer. The small beginner drag at the top was great for beginners and for a low area actually guarenteed ok snow for learners.

To conclude the areas around Innsbruck offer a lot of skiing but the free ski buses are not advertised well and it would be much easier with a car. The Reutte/Ehrwald area is similar in that you can travel free to most areas (train/bus) but would be better with a car. The Zillertal valley offers free buses and trains but again not easy without a car. Also information and advertising of travel was poor like in Innsbruck and Reutte/Erhwald. The East Tirol region can't be travelled by free ski bus so have a car if possible. All the ares have some good skiing on offer. I would definitely say the less well known areas offered just as much as the popular British ski areas. So my advice would be to try out some of less well known areas. What you also have in Austria is the chance to visit some nice towns/villages whilst skiing.

Some additional reviews from the last week for resorts west of Innsbruck.

Galtur
Excellent small area for all levels of skiers. Very senic but not ski in/out for most. Definately one of the highlights.

See
At the top of the valley and accessed from the main road. Nice long run to resort if good snow. Ok runs up top on north facing slopes. Nothing special.

Kappl
Slightly more on offer than See. Just up the road also accessed from the valley road. Some nice runs at the top and a host of covered airport style beginner magic carpets like in Val Thorens. Run to valley not as nice as in See but a long red run from the top lift.

Landeck/Zams (Venet)
A nice small area although I didn't ski it all. Some variety as runs on the front/back side of the mountain. A couple of decent length. Easy access by cable-car from central Zams.

Jerzens (Hochzeiger)
Fantastic views and a nice area. Not huge but a good size and some runs for everyone. Some harder reds/blacks (one steep and one an interesting path). One of the better resorts I visitted.

Rifflesee
The resort just before the Pitztal Glacier but in many ways the better resort for upper intermediates/experts. Also better views than in the glacier bowl. Probably alongside Galtur my favourite of the trip. Nice places to stay on the main road and easy access to the lifts. The mountain at the back has two excellent harder runs and good accessible off-piste. The touring opportunities or off-piste part-day trips seem huge. Highly recommended.

Pitztal Glacier
A nice area for beginners and early intermediates but not for others unless you want to explore off-piste with a guide. Nothing that much off-piste in the bowl itself. Access by underground train and you can see the lifts in Solden which may be linked in future.

Obergurgl
A nice enough area but like with some/most of the more well known mid-size areas nothing to suggest you should go there above some of the others. Skiers in two semi-linked areas. A good beginner area above Hochgurgl and some nice runs at the extreme end of the Obergurl end. A little easy off-piste and maybe some more adventurous stuff. Good options for up-market hotels (not all good I stayed in one that was good and one that was more expensive but poor). I'd suggest choosing other places over this resort. It's not bad but it doesn't meet the hype. For example the Pitztal Glacier and Rifflesee would probably be for many people a better option.

Vent
Although I had information telling me I could use this area I wasn't able to so can't comment except to say the run to the valley looked interesting. Very small though.

Kuhtai (return trip)
Recovered the resort in better conditions. Seemed a lot flatter when I could see the runs Smile! Still some nice stuff though and some off piste potential. A large area for number of pistes.

So to conclude my review of this trip I would say avoid Obergurgl unless you need expensive hotels, ski in/out (most still require a walk), easier slopes, and snow sure slopes. For snow sure go to Pitztal and Rifflesee instead, no contest. The other major plus for me was Galtur a small resort featured by UK tour operators that *was* for once excellent, far better than expected and reliable snow. Jerzens/Hochzeiger also deserved another mention as this is an easily accessible resort from the motorway and offers good skiing. Some-how I doubt you'll see this in a UK brochure for-ever which is a great shame.

Final reviews from April visit.

Stubai
Not a bad area although nothing special. Nice journey by bus or car to the resort. Good views from the top. Although a ski route the run back to the base is fine for adventurous intermediates and quite good fun. The map is terrible and it is useful to know that you can actually do circular trips should you wish.

Fendels
A small area and mainly some short harder runs at the top via a difficult drag and some easier runs down to the bottom of the chair. Not really ideal for beginners though.

Kaunertal Glacier
A nice small glacier area reached by a very scenic journey. The runs down the chair lifts are the most fun. Probably some nice off-piste away from the main area.

Nauders
A good size area sharing pass with two smaller areas in Italy. Three main peaks although the middle one is the not so interesting. Modern lifts on the whole (the 2 seater chair is useful for some nice runs but takes an age back up). Great views from the peaks. Good opportunities for beginners or near beginners.

Serfaus/Fiss/Ladis
A super area probably the best linked area I visitted (although the combined Ziller Valley has the edge overall). In fact the ski area offers more than the villages. The best slopes are on the far right and left of the map. Lifts are mainly good and modern, although lots of bubbles. Best for stronger intermediates although near beginners and children may like too. The bigger issue is where to stay. I didn't like the travel by underground train to the lifts, so I'd consider staying in Fiss or Ladis unless you can get accommodation near the lifts in Serfaus. It's not generally ski in/out anyway, although basing yourself in Ladis would make the trip to the better slopes a little longer. To conclude any general ski resort review book that doesn't include this resort doesn't deserve to be bought. I'd be very supprised if it wasn't in the best 5 ski resorts in Austria. Talking of British ski resort review books, they are shameful in their omissions. My advise would be to search the web and maybe buy some European books to ensure you don't miss excellent resorts that the people who make these books ignore in their quest for easy money.

Hintertux
A nice glacier although I didn't see it in the best weather. The top is mainly simple/short runs even on the back chair. The best most interesting runs are those down to the mid and bottom mountain stations. There isn't a run to the base but again the ski route is fine for confident intermediates. Why can't Stubai and Hintertux make these normal runs as they are obviously pisted (reasonably regularly) and covered by artificial snow when required. Neither would be harder than a red. Didn't get to see the higher ski routes but I'm not convinced the glacier offers more than the Stubai area.

My final conclusion for the year of skiing in the Tirol with the Snow Card is that we as British are too unimaginative and often taken for a ride regarding our decisions. Just because a British tour operator has a resort doesn't make it a good option. In both the case of the smaller and larger resorts the unknown options are just as good as the well known ones. The Ziller Valley as a whole (not just Mayrhofen) is fantastic. Serfaus is super and highly rated internationally for children. Some of the unknown glacier areas would offer off-piste/touring skiing to match St Anton and Innsbruck's Nordkette can offer ski routes as extreme as anywhere in Europe. Ehwald and Seefeld for example offer great beginner/family options.

p.s. Let me know if you would like to know more specifics about one particular resort.


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Sun 22-04-12 14:31; edited 11 times in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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What a thorough guide!

Could you explain this bit to me - I can't quite grasp what you're saying...

Quote:
Ski Welt
Again a good area and well known. Not so many flats as Kitzbuhel and some more difficult runs if required (against some reviews). Takes time to travel from end to end and you are actually limitted to a single lift for the trip which means you travel a lot of the same runs if you make the trip on different days.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Hi,

Sorry probably not the best written review Smile. Basic points were that there ARE some harder runs as well as easier ones in the Ski Welt but this is not always said, and that if you travel from the Soll to the Ellmau ends you have to travel a certain route meaning you will repeat a lot of runs if you do this a few times during a week. Does this make more sense? Editted the original post accordingly.
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Did you fit it all in one week? Wink I would love to do a road trip through Austria one winter. Lots of parking and seems like fairly easy driving.
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Tom,

I'm no expert like I expect some of the people on hear are Smile so took a little longer! No I did a number of trips short and long, although missed a few places due to falling on an icy pathment and breaking a rib in early Jan. Sorry for those ommissions Smile but I shall be back later this year hopefully to some of the less well known resorts west of Innsbruck and shall update the review on my return. I covered most of the pistes (90%+) in all the above areas with the exception of Kitzbuhel (about 60%), Kals/Matrei (75%), Zillertal Arena (70%). I also skied for a couple of hours in Lermoos but could only see about 5m in the fog so haven't included it here. Think it is probably a nice smaller area too though.
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I've added the additional reviews to the original post.
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Great work Sammawby, thank you for posting. Very interested in some of the less well known places.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Very nice to be able to do all these in one season. Did you get a collective deal for the ski passes like a regional seasonal pass? Sound like most of them are in Tyrol.
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I've added some final additional reviews from April to the original post.

8611 - let me know if you would like some more information/opinions on a particular resort
saikee - I had the Tirol Snow Card which is a season pass for the Tirol region which excludes St. Anton, Ischgl and Solden but includes all the resorts reviewed above except Spittal/Goldeck which is in Carinthia and on the Top Ski pass

See their website for a full list of resorts.
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Quote:

we as British are too unimaginative and often taken for a ride regarding our decisions


Maybe speak for yourself?
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sammawby wrote:

8611 - let me know if you would like some more information/opinions on a particular resort


Excellent, any thoughts on which might be a good resort for people who aren't skiing? Going away next year with a group of us with two pre ski-ing infants so will have to have something to amuse whoever's minding them. Ideally, a half decent town to walk around in, maybe a few shops to potter in and absolutely must have some kind of pool / leisure centre place?

I was thinking Chamonix or St Anton, and to a lesser extent Ischgl. But we're trying to save money and you don't do that in any of those.

Did you come across any that might fit that bill?
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sammawby wrote:


Stubai
Not a bad area although nothing special. Nice journey by bus or car to the resort. Good views from the top. Although a ski route the run back to the base is fine for adventurous intermediates and quite good fun. The map is terrible and it is useful to know that you can actually do circular trips should you wish.



What do you mean by circular trips? Can you actually ski from the gondola to the left blue run 5 and 5a? (as per red arrow on my map Wink )
I was always wondering if the T Bar can be avoided on those runs.

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Thanks for the comprehensive guide.

I'm interested in hearing more about Serfaus/Fiss/Ladis. In particular:
- are there any problems with lift queues or overcrowded pistes?
- you say the area is best for strong intermediates. Why do you say that?
- I'd be interested in knowing if the pistes were wide or narrow, how good the grooming was and if the piste classification is accurate (for example are the blues actually blues).

We have a couple of early/cautious intermediates in our group. We're willing to give most things a try but would be looking for a few wide quiet pistes to practice on. I have had bad experiences previously in Austria with dangerously overcrowded pistes, poor grooming and steep slopes for their classification, which made learning tricky. But I'd like to go back to another Austrian resort if the skiing suited.

thanks
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You know it makes sense.
8611 wrote:
sammawby wrote:

8611 - let me know if you would like some more information/opinions on a particular resort


Excellent, any thoughts on which might be a good resort for people who aren't skiing? Going away next year with a group of us with two pre ski-ing infants so will have to have something to amuse whoever's minding them. Ideally, a half decent town to walk around in, maybe a few shops to potter in and absolutely must have some kind of pool / leisure centre place?

I was thinking Chamonix or St Anton, and to a lesser extent Ischgl. But we're trying to save money and you don't do that in any of those.

Did you come across any that might fit that bill?


Kitzbuhel?

Lovely town. Lots of shops (although it's quite a swanky town so the shops are expensive - think Bogner and Louis Vuitton), but nice to have a walk around and have a nose. But whilst the shops are expensive, food and drink prices are reasonable. Decent pool/leisure centre complex. Has a train station so you can jump on and visit other towns if you want.

You can also go up in the lifts and meet for lunch.
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janeed, if you do a search on Serfus you will see that there are some recent trip reports from people who have been there for more than a day! It regularly gets awarded the best family resort in Austria award, so they must be doing something right.

8611, take a look at the Ski Amadé resorts if budget is important. They tend to be more orientated to non-skiing activities as well as they are proper towns. Radstadt has a very nice compact town centre as well as a more extensive shopping area on the edge of town. all are within easy walking distance and the bus network links up everything very well. Altenmarkt is another possibility as is Wagrain. The nice thing with all these places is that the lift system permits non-skiers to meet up with skiers on the mountain during the day.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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Thanks lads will do, anyone else feel free to come in with recommendations
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Sorry for the late reply been put off by some of the annoying regulars who seem to think only their opinion is relevant:

Anyway my views/answers to some of the questions:

8611, I would suggest Briancon (serre chevalier, france) as an excellent off slope location for late season. Also a great place to get to by overnight train.

Tom W, yes you can get between the two sides even though the map is not clear about this. The chair and slope by it on the top left of the map below the drag(s) are longer and better than the map suggests. There is some off piste under the chair too. The two runs by the drag(s) are nice easy blues.

janeed/samerberg sue, serfaus is an excellent area as I mentioned. I skied for about 4 days there I think. I actually said the resort was *best* for strong intermediates and beginners. I think this is a reasonable assessment although the area is large so will be something for most people. Samerberg Sue your reply is exactly the kind of comment that does not help this site. Please stick to facts or opinions of your own and don't rudely dismiss mine or provide incorrect information. For example I said "Serfaus is super and highly rated internationally for children." so you would have been better to have just agreed.
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sammawby, Great work getting to all those!!

I guess you missed the goods at Axamer, Schlick and Stubai, but they ARE there to be found (offpiste and often involving some hiking though). The Kalkkoegel (the jagged mountains separating Axamer and Schlick) in particular are ace, there's a sweet hidden valley with a plethora of couloirs to choose from. I really like the run (down the front towards the rest of the resort) from the Birgitzkoepfel in Axamer too, the old slow chair that's a bit out on it's own. By the way, it is possible to ski from the top of that lift to Mutters, but it's not a piste (think it used to be? Not sure). People often tour up it as it's pretty flat, think ungroomed blue run kinda thing. Pretty short hike from there up to the gnar on Nockspitze too.

Glad you liked Nordkette though, it Be Nice please! rocks!!

You back out this season?
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Quote:

Seefeld (Rosshutte)
Another interesting area for its small size. Some harder runs higher and the lower runs are easier.


The higher runs are indeed harder that the lower ones, but by no means hard. I'd happily take my 6 year old everywhere in Seefeld.
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musher, what about this one:

http://mariusschwager.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/pg-tirol-innsbruck-region-reither-kar_web.jpg?w=848

wink

Have to say I was really disappointed the one and only time I went to Seefeld, found the skiing quite bland (not a comment on gnar/difficulty); turns out it's just another resort where the lifts don't go to to best bits. Also only had one half of the resort on my lift pass (weirdly), maybe the rest is better.

Also that book, ^^ PowderGuide Tirol, is excellent. Only available in German though.

EDIT: Can't post it as an image, so follow the link to view it


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Tue 22-10-13 10:05; edited 1 time in total
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She'd be game, but I actually meant on piste Very Happy
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sammawby, back again! A++ for effort but comprehensive it isn't and you are still only stating your opinion. Those of people who ski these areas regualrly may be at odds with your views.

Perhaps it is the underlying arrogance of your dismissal of other views that puts peoples backs up! And to be honest apart from pointing out the obvious what was unhelpful about my comments? There are several excellent reports on here from people who have stayed at many of these resorts sometimes even more than once. If you want to be taken seriously as an expert on ski resorts, perhaps being more open-minded may be a good start.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
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sammawby, Many thanks for your reply. Hope to visit there soon.
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I remember Serfaus as being a great resort for children and families in general but also offering a far degree of challenging terrain for the advanced skier - ample Black pistes and good offpiste opportunities. Downside is that it isn't cheap.

Serfaus
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=78643

(Better without sound)

http://youtube.com/v/scaQ1BQJe1M

Obergurgl
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=102276
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clarky999, I skied in southern france and the oasta valley resorts last year. Some not well known to the British like Auron or the great Les Sept Laux (any advanced skier travelling near Grenoble should try to visit). Bought a very good value Puy St Vicent season pass that provides access to other resorts. I shall try to post a review of that seasons trips soon. The run you mention on the left of the map was a nice run (non pisted mogels at the time I went), but my comments were my reflection of expectation versus reality (for me). Amaxer had great reviews but for me didn't live up to that (I wouldn't be skiing in a hidden valley but did do some off piste in the small trees). For example I thought the Rifflesee resort was comparatively better. It was a shame I wasn't able to ski the black from Axamer ski resort into the valley.

musher, I guess my views of Seefeld is that the resort is just very nice (one of the most pleasant I've seen) and for the lower intermediate and/or beginner who does not want to drink/party its a great choice. The top runs are harder but indeed not very difficult.
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Tom W, just to reiterate if you travel to Stubai and you are comfortable on easy blacks then I'd suggest taking the ski route back to the bottom. It is not the hardest although you can't get out once you start. Just be a little careful near to the lift station at the bottom if the snow is not relatively new. It does really get skied a lot from what I could see but obviously insurance etc could be more problematic so take care. It seems to have a couple of alternatives at the start and in the middle and end. Starting from the higher entry is very easy for example.

Clarky999, have you skied down directly under the main lift up to Stubai? Seems like it could be a nice powder field alternative to the ski route.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
sammawby, yep, great when snow is nice, and doesn't get tracked out as quickly as some other runs. Quite a bit of exposure to avalanches from above in places though, especially late season it demands respect. Couple of possible routes, going different sides of the big cliff band/stream.

The ski route alternative always seems to be groomed these days, and gets very busy at the end of the day. Also has one flat track section about 2/3rds of the way down with horrible avi exposure, routinely gets hit by wet slides late season. Definitely check it's officially open/safe before skiing down!!
ski holidays
 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
sammawby,

It's a smashing place, my wife & kids don't want to go anywhere else Crying or Very sad , but this is a better assesment of the skiing:
Quote:

for the lower intermediate and/or beginner ... The top runs are harder but indeed not very difficult.


There plenty of apres to be had, it's just a bit more sophisticated than most Brits seem to want.
snow report
 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Seefeld is certainly not a resort for the experienced intermediate/advanced skier, but it is hard to beat it for a combination of altitude, proximity to airport, public transport access from Innsbruck and Munich and opportunities outside skiing.

I've always thought of it as a great place to bring three generations of a family or a mixed group of abilities and skiers/beginners/non-skiers.
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