 Poster: A snowHead
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Hello all!
Just to report about a recent trip to the area of Megeve (French Alps), which included as well visits to the Portes du Soleil area (Avoriaz, Morzine, Les Gets, etc).
So, regarding Megeve: I chose it as a base for this trip. There I stayed (solo) in Le Gai Soleil, which is a relatively small chalet-hotel centrally located in town.
Megeve is a big mass of chalets sprawled along a main route, and several that go into the sides of the mountains. It is a beautiful town, full of rich (RICH) beautiful people, young and old (mostly old), and little partying après-ski. You can find descriptions more or less like this everywhere.
What I could not find easily is what I’ll try to convey: the practicalities of it. The Megeve area is home to a resort that is quite large and varied. It is not extremely challenging for the most part, and it did seem to me that you have plenty of space for everyone. It is mostly about doing leisurely runs, and socializing, and enjoying the magnificent views. You have tree skiing, all-snow skiing, moguls for starters and intermediates, safe off-piste also for starters and intermediates – all and all, quite varied, though non-challenging.
However, there was no easy descent into the village itself with your skis on – that is, I could not really get to the hotel or to a parking in Megeve with the skis on. You have to take a cable car to ascend and to descend from the pistes, which I always find annoying. You can circumvent this, however, if you take the “La Princesse” cable car, in the little town of Combloux just next to Megeve. There is a free parking there, very conveniently located regarding the cable car and the piste that descends right into it. It was perfect. Besides, it sits just next to a low-cost gas station, and several supermarkets. Of course, I’m supposing you are able to use your own car (rental or own). Anyway, and surprisingly for me, there were quite a few people hitchhiking along the main route.
The snow was what is called hard-packed, not having had a major snowfall since December. Some more powder-like substance could be found in some higher areas, but at least there was no slush or wet snow, not even in the lower areas (we are talking February, and despite the sun, temperatures never rose above -5 I think).
I find hard-packed as skiing on ABS – that is, when one turns or carves, it kind of grips to then slide like ice to then grip again, it is kind of a weird sensation like when your anti-lock brakes in the car take hold on a slippery road. It requires a bit more attention and effort at times, but still I did enjoy myself discovering the different areas and slopes of the station.
However, since I had heard so well of Avoriaz, I could not help but taking the car and going for some discovery trips that I ended up loving.
It takes some hour and a half of very enjoyable driving from Megeve to the Portes do Soleil area. And it is worthy! The snow was quite better – true powder prevailed, despite again not having had real snowfalls since early this year. And the area, huge, caters to most everyone looking for good skiing (not really for beginners though), with the added bonus that you can climb a slope in France, and descend into Switzerland, which is... fun.
The landscape is more dramatic in Portes du Soleil, and so are the runs; in many, indeed, one would have to take due precautions not to exceed one’s abilities; and certainly off-piste may also require taking precautions regarding avalanches or crevices / falls – at least, in some areas.
The Portes du Soleil domain is HUGE, and not everything is linked “on skis”. I found the very best deal entering on what is called Ardent – you have a parking ideally located next to a slope that leads directly into the cable car (and tickets for the lifts).
Morzine sits on the way to Ardent. The village is extremely crowded around the lifts, and its absolutely worthy to make the couple extra miles and park in Ardent. Actually, I think that staying in Morzine with a car, I’d always go to Ardent to get into the slopes rather than make the everyday run to the Morzine lifts – unless the hotel was right next to the lift itself, which probably rarely be the case.
From Ardent, you can climb, and descend into Switzerland, into Avoriaz and into Morzine if you wish. Care to make sure that your Swiss travels can have a return to France, and that you have your passport with you.
Avoriaz is not so ugly as some picture it elsewhere – its something that has to be seen to be understood. It is a village without cars – cars are parked outside. The “roads” are ski pistes that cross “the village”, which is nothing more than a bunch of high-rise apartment compounds (all created on purpose to build the village itself). If nothing else, it is convenient, for you get out and you are already skiing.
Les Gets is part of the same domain, and I found the little village quite lovely. The slopes go into the village, and it seemed quite easy to get up and running for someone staying there. Anyway, Les Gets did not seem to give an easy (or fast) access to Avoriaz and the best / more dramatic ski areas; and it is (or was) shock packed with families (kids! kids! little kids and theirs parents everywhere!). People say that Les Gets is a family area, and indeed it seemed to be so.
All and all, I found that Megeve was a great place to take it easy; to go with your significant other, and / or family, and have it leisurely and relaxed, all the better if you can spare some money for a good accommodation. But not really a good station “for value” or “for challenge” or “for party”.
In Portes du Soleil, I found that one can get a better challenge, better snow, even more variety, and certainly better value and partying. I’d probably pick up a place in Les Gets, and also a car, and travel around; probably using the Ardent entry point. Or one could just stay in Avoriaz and skip the car altogether.
Last word about the Le Gai Soleil in Megeve: one can find rave reviews in Booking.com / Tripadvisor, but all and all I found it to be over-expensive for what they provide; people are ok-nice, but nothing to brag about; really family-oriented, so no partying to be expected; monotonous breakfast albeit with good products; completely unremarkable stay altogether.
OK, that’s pretty much it, thanks for reading, and if I could be of any help to anyone with this stuff, I’m glad I helped!
Cheers to all, don’t hesitate to ask further questions if needed: peter.snowhead (at) gmail.com
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Quote: |
not having had a major snowfall since December.
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? I don't think that's correct. There were some major falls during January, for sure.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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PeterSnowhead, sounds like a great trip 
Re Megeve, I've only skied there once for a day but I do remember being able to ski right down to the bottom. I can't honestly remember which piste (it was well covered IIRC despite the snow situation at the time and possibly a red over Rochebrune way).
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I would also say that you can't really compare the one side of Megeve that is sounds like you skied, with the "huge" Portes du Soleil. A fairer comparison would be the Evasion Mont Blanc and The Portes du Soleil, in which case you would have found much more variation and certainly some powder and very decent off piste, although the Evasion is also not all linked by skis and is only 445km compared to the Portes du Soleil's 600km (I think). Does sound like a great trip though, and you are such a keen snowhead you've made it your surname in your email I see 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Thanks all for your remarks
@pam_w: I may have been misguided about the snowfalls, but then again, from what I saw, it did seem to me like fresh snow had not been there for the last couple of weeks at least (that is, since end of January / beginning of February). Also, I may have misunderstood the snow reports... most said that MAJOR snowfalls had not happened since end of 2011... but I do not doubt that some snow may have fallen here and there in the meanwhile, it might just as well explain some parts of *real* powder that I found.
@Lou: thanks, it WAS a great trip  Then again, you are right: THERE ARE some areas of the village of Megeve itself that may be skied into, namely that Rochebrune lift you mentioned; but indeed it seemed to me that, unlike for example Les Gets, you could not get into downtown (center) Megeve with the skis on. I mean the church / ice skating area. You can take the Chamois lift, but you have to RETURN as well on the Chamois lift. But that's just me nitpicking, I guess!!!
@miranda: Indeed I am not being fair comparing JUST Megeve with the whole of Portes du Soleil! And mind all - Megeve is, just as you say, part of a large domain called Evasion Mont-Blanc, by far enough to most anyone! To everyone's attention, Megeve is a world-class station, excellent by all means, and when I made remarks, may everyone understand that one is forced to compare between excellent and outstanding - in the end, it may very well sum up to a matter of personal preference. Still, as a remark, I did try to do more than just Megeve - I was in the Communailles and Mt D'Arbois too at the very least! And all was far more / better than decent!!!
Finally, I just chose to make "snowhead" a surname in the email because I created this email on purpose for this forum, it helps getting stuff organized! But I kind of feel like a total snowhead indeed.
Cheers to all again!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| PeterSnowhead wrote: |
| I did try to do more than just Megeve - I was in the Communailles and Mt D'Arbois too at the very least! |
Yes, they are part of the Megeve area I was talking about rather than being "more than" Megeve... it sounds like you didn't quite get a feel for all that was available... but enjoyed it nonetheless so that's what matters
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The thing about Megeve is that, like other "proper towns" throughout the Alps, you can't expect to hop out of bed and straight onto a piste, and the ski back to the door. Also, like other proper towns, there is often little or no snow at village level (though this year there has been exceptional snowfall - when I drove home, through Megeve, in mid February I have not often seen more snow in the village). Historically people didn't build towns up in the snowfields!
Les Gets is not a "proper town"; it is essentially a ski resort, though like Les Saisies (which is higher than Les Gets at 1650m) it is much more attractive than many of the purpose built resorts. Other proper towns include St Gervais, Cortina, Kitzbuhel - there's a long list.
Choosing between being in a proper town or a more ski in/ski out location is a difficult choice - there's something to be said for both.
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@Miranda: I won't argue, you have a point - you do know the area FAR better for sure... maybe indeed I did not get a feel for all that was available, and that's why I count on returning 
@pam_w: What a great point you make there! Many thanks for those explanations! It makes a lot of sense, and I had never thought of that. Thanks yet again. Always learning.
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