 Poster: A snowHead
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Well, we finally arrived home yesterday afternoon, after a bloody awful coach transfer and the chaos that is Grenoble airport.
(I had typed a long and rather spiteful rant about the ignorant b**tards on the coach, but suffice to say certain fellow travellers were in serious need of a cold dose of reality in their privileged little bubble, and a good slapping to boot.)
After the week we have just had, being back in the UK is borderline depressing. We've had an incredible time, although the French idea of queueing is a hell of a culture shock at first (what an eye-opener the first lift queues were!). Simply put - do not leave a gap infront of you if you don’t want someone to shove you out of the way to fill it, and fully expect to have to pull your ski's/poles/limbs out from underneath the numpty behind you most of the time.
We stayed half-board at Hotel du Golf, and in every respect the service was exceptional. The staff were pleasant and just a little barmy, and it was just a shame that the second we landed in Grenoble I seemed to forget even the most basic French vocabulary - how ignorant did I feel!
The food in the hotel's main restaurant is buffet style, is varied and interesting, and extremely more-ish, although if you are vegetarian you will struggle - unless you are like Mrs ST and happy to subsist on a diet of cheese and desserts (which were awesome!!!!). There are also two smaller specialist restaurants within the hotel which you need to book via reception - Mont Blanc alternates between Fondue and Raclette, and Le Petit Zinc is italian - although offers no veggie options so we didn't end up dining in there as Mrs ST would have starved.
As expected, bar prices were a bit higher than we'd normally be comfortable with, although not entirely extortionate all things considered. Similarly, some of the resort restaurant menu's prices looked a bit steep, although the one place we did try certainly earned their euro's - a huge shout out to Le Laurus in Charvet, but if you plan on eating there you will need to book at least a day in advance as it isn't huge but is very popular.
Back at the hotel, there are numerous other services available such as a kids club, laundry services, in-room safe and fridge, complimentary internet access via four computers and also the free hotel wi-fi (which is sketchy at best), spa and wellness facilities, and a small pool and jacuzzi, although if you aren't there with a TO, the prices are bloody steep for a quick dip and fizz (€20 pp/pd). The only real disappointment was the lack of live music for the week that we were there, something to do with the artist not being able to make it. I was gutted, as this had been one of the selling points for me.
The pistes close to resort centre were a bit skiddy towards the end of the week, and I can only hope that this weekend brings fresh snow as I understand next week is set to get even busier. Venture a bit higher, and the runs were just fantastic. I even ventured off-piste on occasion, where the conditions were even better (I'm still low-intermediate so that was an achievement for me  ). The wife and I agreed that by the end of the week, we had both made appreciable improvements in our own skiing abilities and technique, which was certainly aided by the conditions out there in most places. Mrs ST was a bit wobbly at the start of the week as some of the blue runs were a bit hairy compared to what she had expected, although to be fair even the Ski Tranquille areas were like skidpans in places.
The only real pain-in-the-backside moments were courtesy of the unbridled stupidity displayed by many of the resorts ESF instructors. It's been mentioned before, but it's only when you experience it first hand that you can truly appreciate just how little consideration they give to other piste users and to piste rules/guidelines/etiquette. For example, stopping their groups across the piste on blind bends, forcing anyone coming round the bend to stop dead or plough through a group of kids; also passing my very obviously novice wife with their snake of students, then traversing across the entire piste right across her path so she was completely cut off and forced to plough to a halt mid-slope - and this happened several f**king times on pistes perfectly wide enough for them to avoid doing so easily enough. Had they not usually been surrounded by kids, I'm sure a few choice expletives would have been hurled their way - I believe some insults cross the language barriers quite well 
Not going to dwell on the irritations though, and instead reflect on a truly remarkable week which I simply cannot wait to experience again.
A few pics to end on:
Panorama from our room,
panorama from just above Belvedere, on my way to Arc 1600,
panorama looking down on Peisey Vallandry,
and a panorama from outside La Caverne on the way down into Vallandry,
Outside La Caverne - look how much snow on the roof of the BBQ!
Mrs ST was very excited at the real snowflakes - just like she used to make at school
Looking down on Arc 1800
Some assorted shots from around the domain,
And to finish, a couple of experimental shots using a "miniature" effect
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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DamonST,
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(I had typed a long and rather spiteful rant about the ignorant b**tards on the coach, but suffice to say certain fellow travellers were in serious need of a cold dose of reality in their privileged little bubble, and a good slapping to boot.)
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Oh go on! We like a nice rant on snowHeads 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Boredsurfing, + 1 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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DamonST,
Thanks for posting the above + pics. Really enjoyable to read of others' experiences. We're due out to 2000 in 2 weeks and are keeping everything crossed the conditions don't deteriorate too much.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Some lovely photos, I can see the apartment we stay in in Vallandry 
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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DamonST, nice photos! Love the snowflake one, as well as the one showing my place in Arc 1800.
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DamonST, Lovely photos
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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great review. totally agree about Grenoble...shocking airport. Love the photos - was camera do you have - that "minature" fx is aces"
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Lou, it will make a pleasant change from last season!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| Boredsurfing wrote: |
| Oh go on! We like a nice rant on snowHeads |
Well, by the time Mrs ST and I (along with another couple) boarded the coach for our airport transfer, practically every pair of seats were taken up by a person stretched out across both seats, with the seat backs in full recline, plus bags strewn on many of the remaining seats. We managed to shoehorn ourselves into one of the remaining seats, however Mrs ST had to sit at an angle and still had her knees pressed against the fully reclined seat of the fat git in front. Also, the headrest of the seat in front was barely a foot away from her face when she sat right back.
I don't begrudge people wanting to get comfy for an early start on a longish journey, and had there been available space, I too would have taken up two seats and stretched out a bit. However I do have an issue with the sheer ignorance displayed by some of the people on board. For a start, if I had a seat practically horizontal and someone had to turn sideways to sit behind me, I would have the decency to straighten it up and allow them room to breathe - as I'm sure many of us on here would. In addition, I simply wouldn't block seats with my bag when there is an abundance of space available in the overhead stowage - that is just plain lazy.
Just to give an idea of the attitude the people in front had (and the moaning they did for the entire journey), the bloke told the rep that he wanted a stop-off so his mrs could use the bathroom - a reasonable request which the rep arranged. So 10 minutes later we pulled in at a service stop for a quick break, and a number of people disembarked for a loo-break or to grab a coffee and a pastry. Once back underway, he pulled the rep again and complained that he only wanted a toilet stop, and "not for everyone to go and do their shopping" - bearing in mind that neither of them had even bothered to get off when we stopped! Sorry mate, but there was 30 odd people on that coach, and the world does not revolve around you (although with that waistline, a small moon probably could).
I just have no time for people like that who expect everyone else to bend to their will - with me, respect is earned, not demanded.
| rob@rar wrote: |
| DamonST, nice photos! Love the snowflake one, as well as the one showing my place in Arc 1800. |
Mrs ST was quite insistent that I get a pic of one of the snowflakes at some point. TBH they were better on the day we arrived, but it was fairly low on my list of priorities at that moment.
Have had a quick nosey at your apartment online. Am I right in thinking it's just below the zone de ski tranquille at the top of Chantel? That's one for the shortlist when we graduate to Fly/Drive
| Jon Ford wrote: |
| great review. totally agree about Grenoble...shocking airport. Love the photos - was camera do you have - that "minature" fx is aces" |
It's a Canon Ixus 220HS, a little point & shoot I bought specifically to carry around on the slopes, as I didn't fancy lugging my Nikon DSLR around. I'm actually really impressed with it overall.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| DamonST wrote: |
| Have had a quick nosey at your apartment online. Am I right in thinking it's just below the zone de ski tranquille at the top of Chantel? |
Yes, more or less. There are three 'L' shaped buildings in the middle of your photo after the snowflakes. My building is the one in the middle of those three, on a piste which loops off from the zone de ski tranquille.
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Excellent pictures. Love the wide angle panorama. How did you get it with a point & shoot camera?
I noticed similar issues with some ESF instructors. The secret though is not to get annoyed but to treat the ESF snakes as part of the challenge of ski terrain (a bit like a small mobile tree, or copse) to be avoided without breaking your rhythm.
We are veterans of numerous TO-organised ski trips but for the last few years have been self-sufficient. Not sure how the economics compare, particularly as car hire is so expensive in Europe, but it is huge fun planning your own trip, selecting your flights to avoid early morning/middle of night transfers, organising your travel so as to experience the joy of empty Saturday morning slopes. The drive to Les Arcs, whether from Geneva, Chambery, Grenoble or Turin is a breeze, except Saturdays in high season. We had no difficulties with traffic from Grenoble to Les Arcs at around 7pm on Sat 11 Feb, and when we left at 3pm on Sat 18 Feb for the trip back to Grenoble the road was clear. In contrast the traffic coming in the opposite direction was nose to tail (and frequently stationary) all way the from Moutiers to Bourg St Maurice.
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You know it makes sense.
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al.p, it's several individual pics stitched together in photoshop.
I'd certainly consider the DIY approach on a Fly/Drive basis (wouldn't do the whole trip by road as we are way up int' North West). I'd have to see how the costs stacked up, but being naturally tight-fisted I'd be loathe to pay out to hire a car for a week knowing I'd more than likely only be using it for the transfer. It might work out much cheaper than a TO deal with transfers, but in the back of my mind I'd still be thinking "but it's just sitting there...." 
That, and I'm such a picky bug I would invariably spend hours and hours going through all sorts of chalet websites etc trying to balance costs with facilities, and generally find that "one" that's just right.
best start planning now, eh?
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Try Eurostar to Bourg st Maurice - much more civilised than flying, no long transfers and no real luggage restrictions
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Poster: A snowHead
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DamonST, Europcar have a place is Bourg, so you can hire 2x 1 way transfers. Friends have done this from Geneva and Grenoble: stop in at the SuperU, dump the family and kit at the resort, return to BsM, and leave the car off, come up on the Funicular. Reverse the process on the way back (depending on flight times maybe picking up the night before).
Also don't get to pay for Parking charges up the mountain for a week of no use, which can be ~€90+.
The only advantage of having the car in resort is if you want to go to La Ros / Val / 3V etc for a change of scenery.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Quote: |
every pair of seats were taken up by a person stretched out across both seats
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I would take that up with the tour operator. It's up to the rep to make sure you can get a seat. Too late this time but next time get the rep to sort it out.
I know what you mean about car hire. When we fly it pains me to pay several hundred pounds for basically two journeys, one up the hill, one down. Do investigate trains though
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| thetaxwoman wrote: |
| Try Eurostar to Bourg st Maurice - much more civilised than flying, no long transfers and no real luggage restrictions |
Being in the north, the costs and journey times rise considerably. Flights and a car at the other end work out at less than half the time, and half the cost to boot.
Arctic Roll, Thanks for the tip, well worth a looksee.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| Quote: |
every pair of seats were taken up by a person stretched out across both seats
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I think I'd stand there and say politely "Excuse me..." and wait for them to move. That's what you have to do on trains when somebody has plonked their laptop case on the empty seat beside them. They're just hoping nobody is going to challenge them.
When a couple have taken three seats on a flight, and left the empty seat between them, I quite enjoy watching them trying to decide whether to give up their aisle seat by shoving over, or have a stranger sitting between them.
It's rude and inconsiderate, I agree, to sprawl across the seats.
In some places it can be very helpful to have a car - especially if you want to travel a bit round a wider area.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I am hoping the weather is going to get a bit colder again and some more snow as my wife and I are due to go for the first Easter week. Thanks DamonST, for the review of Hotel du Golf which is where we are staying.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Thanks for the report and pics!
What kind of prices we talking? For instance a pint of tap Lager / Beer?
A meal, perhaps Lasagne and Chips?
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dave_wick We were in les Arcs last week and for a family of 4 a lunch time meal on the slopes , consisting of the usual sort of grub , you know lasagne, bolognese , burgers and maybe a plat du jour , with soft drinks for the kids and a couple of beers for my wife and I , most times came to about €50 to €70 . We did have a couple of longer lunch time sessions with multiple bottles of wine in Le Solan ( at PeisseY ) and that came to about €100 .
So I did not think feeding a family of 4 for about £45 was too bad
Off to Val D'Isere next week on a lads holiday so not so much food intake but prbably a massive increase in alcohol intake
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