![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Poster: A snowHead
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So with the bad snow and some sneaky disguised rocks, my board took a decent bashing this season. It's no big deal - the board has seen me through enough trips that it owes me nothing now so i'll probably replace it soon.
Rather than just chuck it out however, i'd like to repair the damage as best i can. I already did a repair with the candles but they are very temporary. My understanding is that once you are through to the core, all repairs are pretty temporary.
In an attempt to prolong the life of the repair i'm thinking about sealing the core with an epoxy resin, then layering the p-tex on top of that once it's cured - the rationale being that the board is held together with epoxy anyway.
I'm thinking that a low viscosity flexible epoxy is the way to go. West System G-Flex seems to be a product that matches that description.
Has anyone any experience of this approach? Should I just go ahead and do it and report back with the outcome?
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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monkey, p-tex won't stick to the core or to the metal edge. When either the core or metal is exposed you first need to put in a tin foundation layer of Metalgrip (it's a co-polymer of resin & metal) & once fully cooled you can then apply the p-tex. Note that Metalgrip can't be 'dripped' in but has to be welded in using the tip of Base Doc tool, Skimender repair pistol, or a low temp soldering iron. Metalgrip adheres far better to p-tex than epoxy.
Check-out the Advanced/Major Repairs sections here: http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/content/view/38/34/
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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monkey, everything spyderjon said, also you'll be able to get all the kit from his website. I've fixed some pretty big holes through to the core with metalgrip and ptex and not had one rip out yet.
Once you've got a tool for welding metal grip in I suggest you stop using ptex candles and do future ptex repairs with ptex ribbon instead. It won't burn so you'll have to weld it in with the tool but it's harder wearing than the candles where repaired holes might need a top up after a few weeks riding. You might need to do a couple of layers of ptex on top of the metal grip, if so hack a few gouges in the lower one with a sharp knife to increase the surface area for bonding with the next layer, and heat the lower one up a bit with the welding tool too.
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Swirly,
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You'll need to Register first of course.
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So if a old board had a delam just above the steel edge running for 4-5 inches (in the nose curve)... is it history as far as repair goes?
Givern you can,t tin a thin delam above the steel edge with the metalgrip in this case?
Is it possible to exact a one season repair with light heating the area and boat epoxy or is it just a short matter of time before it delams again.
Its not a important board more a diy job as with Monkeys but was interested if anyone had a successful go at delams at the steel edge and sidewall, deep into the core.
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Tirol 164, delams are different as metalgrip isn't required, just a re-glueing. It's all about drying out the board/ski & then using the correct adhesive which is Araldite 2011 which is a slow cure two-part epoxy for great strenght but it's also waterproof & flexible. Unfortunately the adhesive is not usually available from retail shops & it's a bit more expensive than regular epoxy but I have it in my online store at the best price I can do. However it's well worth the price if it saves your board/skis.
Once adhesive is mixed you need to warm it up (hairdryer/heat gun) to get it nice & runny. Then apply into the delam crack as deep as possible (wedge the crack open slightly if required) then squeeze out the excess & clamp etc. Greese proof paper under the clamps will stop them sticking to the board/ski (as used in the link above). I use a heat clamp system that cuts the curing time down to 45-60mins but with regular clamps at room temperature I'd recommend leaving them on for at least 48hours, if not 72. Then trim/and off the excess material.
The success of a delam repair really depends on the depth/length of the damage & whether or not there has been much water ingress in to the core. Water & wood don't mix so if the core is mush there's just nothing to bond to. I've repaired loads of 4-5" long delams that have then been perfect but I've had a couple which then failed again & upon post mortem the core material was shoite. There's less loading on the tip/tail so the chances of getting a good repair are high.
If you got an existing delam repair that's held for a season I'd leave it alone.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Helpful info on delams thanks, that base doc tool and ribbon looks like something to consider having.
The metalgrip is what I,m guessing was not used in past resort shop patch repairs.
As they ran along the steel edge, the patch would always lift in a week or so from the steel edge side or corner?
They would redo it then it would come out again the next week.
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Excellent beta spyderjon and swirly. Cheers. Maybe there's some life in the old girl yet.
(Ps if my missus asks, i'm still using the hole in the old board as an excuse to buy a new one, whether the repair holds or not!)
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Fibermax Composites also offers flexible resin system that is compatible with other epoxies.
http://www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/-p-897.html
A transition from flexible to rigid can reduce delam. Read Fibermax Composites application instructions to prevent delam, that can probably be used also with other epoxies.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Old thread, but thought i'd offer an update. It took me til christmas to get round to this repair. I tidied up the edges of the gouge with a scalpel then filled the holes with metalgrip. I just bought a £10 variable temp soldering iron for this job and it seemed to work fine. I had some candles so put a layer of ptex over the metalgrip then scraped, filed and sanded it down before waxing. The repair looked ok but the ptex candle part of the repair wore off in about an hour of boarding. The metalgrip seems pretty well stuck in however even after a week so i will call it a successful repair.
I'm going to dig out the ptex and just fill the gouges flush to the surface with metalgrip. I gather this doesn't absorb wax so might make a sticky ish part to the base but with plently of waxing i doubt it will make any difference, and it should be better than a gouge half filled with metal grip (which is what it is now). I know i could look into the ribbon etc but my suspicion is that whatever type of ptex i put on top of the metalgrip will only ever be a temporary plug which will crack off every few days.
I will report back with the outcome of the new repair after the next trip in March.
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