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TR Eiger West face

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
We had a hot tip off at the weekend from friends who had climbed the North face that the West face of the Eiger was in very snowy condition, so a crack team was hastily assembled to go and ski this legendary summit. Weighing in at 5.2 with 1600m vertical including 1200m at 40º or more and some steep exposed sections up high along with an exposed passage under the mid-height serac: this is not a descent to be underestimated...

Grindlewald grund train station:



On the train up to Kleine Sheidegg



Eiger North face looking moody:



The team contemplating the West face, upper half hidden by the clouds:



Ross & Cedric at the 5 star bivvy spot:



Sunset on the Jungfrau:



Antigravity chough:



Serac fall throughout the night didn't make for the best night's sleep, especially considering you have to climb for 300m under a serac on the West face. Fortunately it is relatively placid at the moment - most of the action seemd to be coming from the Monch and the Jungfrau.

7.30 am, time to climb... only 1600m to go:



A bit of rock climbing for a wake-up call:



A few fundred metres of skinning up the lower apron, then skis on pack, crampons on, and time to start boot-packing:



Cedric approaching the ice runnels that allow you to stay well left (though not completely out of the line of fire of the serac):



Starting up the upper face:



Looking down from approx 3600m on the West face, Eigergletscher station visible 1300m below:



A quick peek down the North face - very good conditions on the classic '38 route currently:



The team on the summit:



French pair coming off the North face:



American Dave puts in the first couple of turns down a slightly firm West ridge - 4m wide, 1600m of north face on the right, 1600m of West face below, so slightly 'airy'!:



John - first turns on the West ridge:



Spot the skier (yes he is in there - dead centre) - Dave ripping the upper face:



Jim high on the upper face:



Ross:



Ross & Cedric below the serac - 100m of mixed conditions - chopped up powder, sluff balls, spring snow & the odd runnel... just where you don't want to be hanging around!



Good spring snow right through the lower slabs - just enough there to get through with skis on...



And ski to within 50m of the Eigergletscher station:



One for the laydees! - The cream of the crop of Chamonix steep skiers flex their pecs in the afternoon sun:



The West face. The line skied started from the summit down the West ridge (left hand skyline), then skiers left through the rock bands of the upper face to join the wide slopes above the serac:



Culture shock - one minute you are in the high mountains, the next sitting on a train full of Japanese tourists!



Legendary summit + great line + good snow + great company = awesome day out!!


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Wed 20-04-11 18:51; edited 1 time in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
a certain guide once gave me some chat about how the w face was quite a straightforward ski... i'll take his comments with a pinch of salt in future!
nice thing to tick off there Simon - thanks for posting
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Arno, Its not super-steep, but it is a big mountain line with all that entails (variable snow, bit of alpinism, choice of line, objective dangers) & the first turns down the West ridge are definitely not for the faint-hearted Very Happy
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I suppose with the price of the train ride you've got to make it worth summat.

Quote:
...so slightly 'airy'!


Sheeesh!
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offpisteskiing wrote:
...the first turns down the West ridge are definitely not for the faint-hearted

Is that the section you described as "slightly firm"? Laughing
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offpisteskiing,
Quote:

Weighing in at 5.2

'Scuse the ignorance but what does this mean is it the technical grade of the climb?

Impressive report though, looks truly terrifying to my inexperienced eyes.
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
T Bar, http://pistehors.com/backcountry/wiki/Technique/Toponeige-Rating
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Arno,
Thanks very interesting.
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Sounds and looks truly epic! How bad is the climbing section? I have a bit of a fascination with the Eiger, I'd love a crack at this some day.
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Sounds and looks truly epic! How bad is the climbing section? I have a bit of a fascination with the Eiger, I'd love a crack at this some day.
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clarky999, short sections of about Scottish grade 2 ice and some short steps of rock on the upper face too unless you really weave about. Not hard climbing, but you need to be confident soloing that stuff with a lot of exposure... Also worth being able to move quite fast on it, as the ice sectionis under (but slightly to one side of) the main serac band, no place to be hanging about...
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
offpisteskiing, nice TR. Great to see you're still getting it in!
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
As a mere mortal - and having been up the train to the top in summer - I'd say that was very impressive Shocked
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Saw the photos on Facebook. Strong effort.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
I saw it on facebook too.

But I needed to go and have a sit down to get over it. Shocked

Fantastic report.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Blimey....hardcore!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Jikes...
Thanks for posting
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Chapeau -

good to see John Minogue representing the snowboard Cool
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Very impressive!! Looks seriously steep to me...


What's wrong with just doing blue runs eh? wink
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Piccadilly wrote:
What's wrong with just doing blue runs eh? wink


As a wise man once said: "Everyone has their own Eiger"

(Note: there is a possibility I may be slightly misquoting here... Happy)
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offpisteskiing, superb. There's a segment in Claim when Chris Davenport skis the same line I think. Great stuff snowHead
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Sharkymark, that was the Matterhorn.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Sharkymark, clarky999, pretty sure he skied the W face on the same trip as the Matterhorn E face...
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*Off to re-watch Claim,* thanks for the excuse!
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F'kin' awesome
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very very cool trip! thanks for sharing!
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Excellent, thanks for sharing !
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