 Poster: A snowHead
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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SMALLZOOKEEPER,
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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Did he have off-piste insurance?
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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cad99uk wrote: |
Did he have off-piste insurance? |
No but he was wearing a helmet!
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Running. Running along the the ridgeline to the summit! Jawdropping
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Saw this on a documentary about the Eiger on BBC in the winter... amazing stuff. That mountain is the stuff of absolute legend
And... the camera man is the true hero here
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Incredible skills, incredible nerves, incredible mountain.
I can't comprehend how the Eiger climbers manage such manoeuvres on such exposed terrain, particularly as many seem to do it without much in the way of protection and ropes. That leaping along the ridgeline is just unbelievable! Should have posted that in the 'what's a no fall zone thread!'
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some videos are impressive, this is GOBSMACKNG.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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But the Ski Beat rep on the bus told him "about 90 minutes".
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Bode Swiller,
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 You know it makes sense.
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At times in the distance shots his movements looked more like a spider's than a human being's. Awe-inspiring!
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Great comment from the Youtube clip:
"If he fell he would probably land on his gigantic balls and survive."
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 Poster: A snowHead
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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- Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has just bettered Ueli's time on the North face - knocking it down to 2'28" Unreal!
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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Chasseur, I'm crap soloing on rock. Have done rather easy ice with big packs up to about 600 feet and felt confident as you basically have your holds with you. Some of these clips really make your palms sweaty though.
I remember Jim Perrin's article in a climbing mag in the 80's when he solo'd (think it was Coronation Street) a climb at Chedder Gorge after doing a load of speed and coke. He got a couple of hundred feet up, clipped into a sling and then basically lost it (gf break up, life crisis etc) and had to climb the last pitch in a right mess.
All he wanted was to see his dog again and to feel flat ground beneath his feet
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offpisteskiing wrote: |
- Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has just bettered Ueli's time on the North face - knocking it down to 2'28" Unreal! |
That is of course 2 hours 28 minutes, as opposed to 2 minutes and 28 seconds...just in case there was any confusion...
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offpisteskiing, didn't see you pass him on the way down
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Both videos made my palms sweat..
Nutters.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Only just saw this, yep what Piccadilly, said, Nutters, but how monumentally awe inspiring , what must it have felt like to stand on that summit
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Great - it is a serious bit of rock.
I do wonder why free climbers don't carry a small parachute these days - given the overlap between climbing and base-jumping - you'd think that there might be some way of mitigating falls from over a couple of hundred meters?
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Scarpa, isn't Perrin a brilliant writer about this strange 'sport'. Do you know 'For Arnold Pines'? Every time I'm near Tryfan I think of it...
stoat of the dead, falls are instantaneous - there is no time to blink, nothing but a nano-second of that unreality one gets in car crahes etc and then it's bounce on the rope - if any.
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 You know it makes sense.
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stoat of the dead wrote: |
I do wonder why free climbers don't carry a small parachute these days... |
Exactly my thought when watching the Honnold vid (thanks for the link Arno). It does seem though as if he's one of the few who take it to those extremes. I suspect also that going up with a chute on your back would rather take the shine off the freedom of the escapade. It's also worth thinking about the point he made that you have to be 100% certain that you will not make a mistake or you lose the mental strength to do what he does - and having a backup plan is conceeding that you are less than 100% confident. Once you let the doubts come in - as he nearly did on the Half Dome climb - you lose the concentration and facility that comes with complete confidence, and it becomes a self-fulfilling viscious spiral.
(Or so it seems from what he said - as I clearly have no experience of anything like this)
red 27 - free soloing = no rope, or any other kind of attachment. Falls are also clearly not instantaneous. From 500' you have about 6 seconds before you hit the deck so plenty of time to react. From that height though most of the time would be taken in the chute itself opening, so you'd NOT have a lot of time to hang about before getting it going. Much below that the chute won't open in time. It does also assume the wall is vertical (or overhanging) for long enough for the chute to start working - but those walls looked pretty much like it (but the Eiger probably not).
(edited to insert a rather vital missing 'NOT')
Last edited by You know it makes sense. on Fri 22-04-11 20:58; edited 1 time in total
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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GrahamN, Ta for the lecture - but if you actually take up the sport, take a few leader falls perhaps then you could get back to me about how much use a parachute would have been.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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red 27, plenty of guys are now using chute's for bib wall stuff, mainly for after topping out but also a security measure, slightly less pure but none the less hair raising, designer danger!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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red 27, while it is true I am not a climber (although I have done the odd day), I suggest that what you do is also nothing like what Honnold does. Clearly a parachute is useless for falls of less than 1-200', and anything you've done on a rope would be fall less than that. But that's not what stoat of the dead or I were talking about. And while it's also different, I have made many parachute jumps (including some exits that were not at the scheduled time), several bungy jumps, and a few big falls (10s of metres) in skiing, so I do know how time passes when you are falling; saying you have a nano-second of unreality is complete tosh.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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red 27, errr...
1) free climbing - ie solo and no rope.
2) 9.8 m/sec/sec ... if you don't understand what that is - you aren't qualified to discuss...
3) Look at the altitude base jumpers now deploy their chutes - using hand-deployed drogues rather than rip cords
So read my post again eh?
GrahamN, SMALLZOOKEEPER, Ta
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red 27 wrote: |
Scarpa, isn't Perrin a brilliant writer about this strange 'sport'. Do you know 'For Arnold Pines'? Every time I'm near Tryfan I think of it...
stoat of the dead, falls are instantaneous - there is no time to blink, nothing but a nano-second of that unreality one gets in car crahes etc and then it's bounce on the rope - if any. |
No - will have to check up on that. Have read loads of Perrin's stuff though... agree totally on his ability to communicate what climbing is all about.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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stoat of the dead wrote: |
1) free climbing - ie solo and no rope.
2) 9.8 m/sec/sec ... if you don't understand what that is - you aren't qualified to discuss... |
well I think that sums it up...
I shall be climbing in North Wales from next weekend, if one of you guys would like to come up and fall off the top of Lliwedd with your parachute I will promise to contribute generously to the funeral arrangements and write a glowing obit on here.
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Scarpa, a wonderful moving peice - it was before the days of parachutes
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red 27, do you actually know how big the north wall is? Compared with many base jumps? Why do you think I specified a distance? Just because you climb rocks which take a second or two to fall off doesn't mean others aren't climbing higher. Without a rope.
Anyway SZK has already answered this. All you have to say is you got it wrong...
Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Fri 22-04-11 23:25; edited 1 time in total
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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GrahamN wrote: |
I suspect also that going up with a chute on your back would rather take the shine off the freedom of the escapade. It's also worth thinking about the point he made that you have to be 100% certain that you will not make a mistake or you lose the mental strength to do what he does - and having a backup plan is conceeding that you are less than 100% confident. |
That sounds spot on to me. I don't do much climbing now but, in my limited experience of soloing, leading and seconding, bizarrely, I find seconding most terrifying. It must be something to do with all the hanging around knowing what's to come. By contrast, I find soloing (easy stuff that sometimes goes as VD but isn't really) liberating and enjoyable. I'm not encumbered by a rope, I don't have to hang in awkward positions trying to gear to stay in, I can move when I'm ready and, above all, I know I'm not going to fall off.
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I watched the first one - he must have been damn certain that snow ridge wasn't about to breakaway - I wonder how sound it was
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