Got back from Boro in the wee hours (more of that later) of Sunday after a great trip.
Sophie and I were out for outr first skiing trip for about 12 years and the kids (10,8,5) for their first ever trip. All in all we had a brilliant time in Borovets.
We flew out on the 06:05 cheesy flight from Gatwick. Flight was as good as cheesy gets - I joined the seat bundle to get the two rows needed. Took our own gin and bought tonic 'cos we're cheapskates and Bombay Sapphire is much better than Gordons.
Booked our own transfers (100 euros return) and this was great. Got to Boro by 2ish local time and checked into the Alpin.
We stayed in a one floor chalet which we had booked direct. This was clean and comfortable with it's own sauna. We had booked B&B and were pleased with breakfast - lots of options and plenty of it. We ate several times in the restaurant and had good food, reasonable prices (by Boro standards) and big portions. The reception staff at the Alpin were good, very pleasant and helpful. The only issue we had was that we wanted to pay for the hotel bill by card but they wanted cash and were difficult to the point of refusing to take the card even though they claim to take cards. This seems to be a universl issue however with places that claim to take cards then claiming machines aren't working, odd problems, it's the wrong day of the week, the cat's sick etc. so that you feel obliged to pay in cash. Location of the chalet was excellent - right at the bottom of the Rila slopes - ans was quiet even though it is so close to everything. We would happily recommend the Alpin and it would be our first choice to stay at again.
We had booked ski passes, kids lessons, hire etc. from Hunters and were really, really pleased with our choice. Stefan from Hunters had been very responsive in the lead up to our visit and had gone above and beyond in helping us work out our slightly complex requirements! We sorted our kit out on Sat pm which included a glass of some very nice home made wine from the depot staff! Quick note - you need to go to the PMS office at the front of the Flora complex to sort the commercials out then through the back of the complex to the ski depot to get your kit.
We then walked around the village and ended up in White Magic - Christo Angelo's place. He was very friendly and spent some time letting off sparklers and bangers outside with Angus and his grandson.
We realised we had left our travel kettle and a quick SOS on the skibulgaria forum resulted in Kas (who runs the White House at the top of the gondola) offering to lend us one - fantastic, welcoming and friendly help especially bearing in mind we'd not even met.
Pizza from the Alpin in the chalet Sat night, off to bed and up ready for skiing on Sunday....
Stefan had organised two instructors for the first day for our kids - one to help the girls and one to be there to help the youngest, Angus, in case he was not up to being with the girls. We had two mornings with Grassi as a refresher.
Sunday morning skiing on the Rila side was pretty nice bearing in mind there had been no snow for some time. Some of the slopes were a bit thin and slippy but there was still nice conditions up top and where the cannons had been running. Grassi got us back into some semblance of proper skiing after 12 years of doing nothing - it was surprising how quickly we got back into it - a couple of pointers and we were skiing like old hands again (ish!).
We went up the Gondala and went to the White House. We saw Bobby (Kas' other half who we'd seen in the am at the Hunters depot) and he sorted out a welcome cup of hot Raklia. We then went to ski to the mid station, intending to come back up and have a hot choccy and some food but by the time we got to the mid station we had a call from the kids' instructors to say it was time for us to meet them so we didn't get back that day. I went back up the Gondala and skiied Yastrebets 1 but by the time I was half way down my legs were shot and I thought discretion was the better part of valour and came off at the Musala pathway to have a gentle ski back to the Rila side.
Sunday night it started snowing and by Monday am we had 20cm of snow in the village. We went to the depot were the kids were put with just one instructor (Ivanka) as they all seemed to be getting on OK and we went out with Grassi again. All I can say is AMAZING. Snow was superb - fresh powder up to our knees. Grassi took us down the upper Rila reds that were closed as they'd not yet been bashed (after having made sure we appreciated the implications for insurance etc.) and it was some of the best skiing I've ever done. There were occasional patches of ice under the power but overall it was fantastic. We skiied the bowl that goes under the furthest 4 man chair when virtually no one had skiied it - making our own fresh tracks. We skiied the Rila black by the four man chair - again, fresh tracks. We went up the Gondola for lunch, met Kas - who was so welcoming - and skiied Popangelov back. Brilliant skiing - powder superb, empty pistes - almost perfect conditions.
We popped into the forum met at the Black Tiger on Monday evening and picked up the kettle from Bobby. We also met Roy - a Boro regular who we kept seeing - nice bloke.
Tuesday saw more snow and we skiied the Rila side for a bit, enjoying the powder and then caught Ivanka up with the kids on the long Royal Residence pathway green run. We were going to take them up the gondola but conditions were not good and the WH was shut so we took them up the four man chair and came down some of the blues back to the green pathway.
Wednesday we skiied the Yastrebets side with brillant conditions. We were going to get the gondola but the queue was huge so we just got the bus in time to the Yastrebets 4 man chair - did a run of Y3 then back up, Y1 to the gondola mid station then up. We had lunch at the WH then down Y1 to the Musala pathway cut through and picked up the kids. We took them up the gondola then down the Musala pathway. It took 2 hours to get down but the kids were ace and coped really well.
We had a meal in the Derby then I went night skiing. Big mistake. Conditions were much icier than I expected after having done it in Sweden a few years ago. It was great having empty slopes but I had a small slip, twisted my back and that night could not move.
No skiing Thursday which meant I missed out on beautiful conditions. I did end up going to the medical centre who took me to Samokov prison (hospital) for a cash in hand x-ray just to check I'd not really done any serious damage. I had the all clear, was given a back brace, anti-inflamatory pills and a pain killing injection with enough oommph to kill a horse,
We had booked ski-dooing for Thursday PM and I could do that after the injection. That was great. Orgainised via the guys at the Silver Fox (I think that's what it's called). Beautiful weather, snow covered trees etc. Highly recommended.
Thursday evening we went on the Bulargia night in Samokov. Normally I would avoid these sort of trips but as too cheesy but it was done very well. Food was good, the whole thing very good value and good fun.
Friday I skiied. Fantastic weather. The kids were doing the Musala pathway with Ivanka and so we went up the Gondola with them and then I gingerly did the blue (no problem) then went up the 4 man chair, did the red and then back up the 4 man chair, down the green and back to the WH for a beer. We skiied back down Y1 and across to the Musala pathway to meet the kids.
We completed the day by skiing the Rila side blues with the kids - a lovely end to a lovely holiday of being able to ski as a family. It was now coming up to 3:30 and I wanted to take the kids up the gondola to the lock in at the WH but the kids wanted to buy presents and we wanted to eat in Samokov so we got changed and took a taxi into the town.
Shopping in Samokov was an experience - not alot of the shops were open and the place reflects the reality that Bulgarians generally earn alot less than us in the UK. People were generally friendly however, especially when we made the effort to use a little Bulgarian with them. We ate at Target and that was very good. Prices were much cheaper - 4 lev for cocktails, mains around 8-10 lev. All that happended however was that bought more! By the time we paid the 15 lev each way for the taxi we spent at least the same as cheaper meals (with less) in Borovets. It would be very good value for a group of friends sharing a taxi however. We'd happily go back though.
On Saturday the girls went horse riding and had a great time. I got a 2nd hand pass for the pm (10 lev of a geezer outside the gondola) and took Angus up the gondola. I wanted to say thanks and bye to Kas but she had the day off. We had nice little lunch and then I took Angus down the blue to Yastrebets chair and then down Y1 to the gondola mid station - his first red. He was a trooper - fell about four times as he couldn't be bothered to turn but always had a big smile on his face . He's only five and was really happy.
We met back up with the rest of the family, took our kit back to Hunters and went to the Popangolov Restaurant at the bottom of the Rila runs for some pancakes. Sophie had found this place earlier on Saturday and it is excellent value for money. Cheaper than all the places around about. We wished we'd know about it earlier the food was good and great value (again for Borovets).
Flight back was meant to be 8:35 pm but did not push back until 11:30 - the handling agents and Cheesy did everything in their power to make sure the delay was less than 3 hours so that they did not have to give anyone free meals and drinks. One of our bags was ripped on return but made a claim there and then and will get a new bag in 10 days.
Overall we had a fantastic time. I would recommend Boro to anyone. There was minimal hassle from the bar hawkers and the seedy side was not pushed to us in any way. Of course it's different to the Alps but that difference overall is positive.
The Alpin was a great place to stay. Hunters were simply fantastic and Kas and Bobby were absolute stars. Chicken Burger, Marathon and drink at the WH for 15 lev is a great deal. If you go to Boro please suppport it as they deserve to succeed.
Great holiday, made extra special by the superb snow and great people we met. We are thinking of coming back next year!
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Great report
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Cheers. I forgot to mention as well that we got valet parking for £45 from Maple Manor Parking. Go direct to them at http://www.gatwickparking.net/. Excellent price and service.
Also, our replacement bag turned up this morning from damagedbaggage.com. 10 mins to fill in a form at the airport and then again online - 2 days later a new bag.
pigbite, sounds a great holiday, thanks for report - nice to have positive feedback on Borovets. Did you learn Bulgarian for the holiday or do you have Bulgarian connections?
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
pigbite, Grassi or could it be Krassi (Gergenov I think)?. If it's Krassi I've skied with him several times. Great report by the way.
Yes it's Krassi. The original spelling was my mistake.
Glad you enjoyed the report.
Cheers
jez
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Hi Pam,
Glad you enjoyed the report. We had a great time and really enjoyed Borovets. Bulgaria does get a bad rap and it's not the Alps but that's a good thing in my opinion. I would love to go back to the Alps but the prices and the fact our kids are beginners make the larger areas simply not good enough value for money.
There are aspects of Borovets which you don't find in the Alps such as the seedy side of things but there are loads of apres ski places in the Alps that would be a bad idea to take a young family into simply becuase they are full of beered up idiots. As I said anyway, we hardly noticed that side of things as adults and our kids were oblivous to the erotic show venue across from our hotel. Most of the bars had hawkers trying to get you to come in but it wasn't a hard sell, agressive or anything difficult. A polite, friendly "no thanks" and walk on is all it takes. You get worse in Turkey and even then we just take it as part of how the people do thier selling. I am far more offended by the sales techniques of mobile phone companies at home.
Some people complain about the attitude of the people but we found being friendly, trying a bit of Bulgarian and not acting like a condescending, patronising idiot overcame any initial coldness. Don't forget many of these people earn alot less than most of us in the UK and put up with alot that we are simply shielded from in the UK. To be faced everyday with ignorant foreigners must grate after a while. Don't tell me as well that in France everyone is happy is to welcome us Brits when we act like fatheads?
Borovets is compact and we found it to have a village type atmosphere - no problem at all.
It's true to say that some of the lifts are older but they still get you up a mountain. They have got rid of all the drags in Borovets and the only bad chair lift is the 4 man in front of the Rila that has an evil kick as it swings back round (beware taking kids up this one). The snow was fantastic and that made the holiday but we could have had no snow in France and paid 2-3 times as much. I have seen complaints about the snow in Borovets but the Alps has had it's fair share of issues this winter and if it ain't snowing then that will always cloud your judgement about the holiday. They do have snow cannons in various places and in these areas the skiing has been fine even when the snow has been light.
We don't have any Bulgarian connections (or didn't) but wherever I go I try and use a smattering of the language and I think that little nod of respect really makes a difference. Treat people in the way you would like to be treated and it does bring a payback.
If you are an advanced skiier without young kids then to have the large ranges of the Alps or even North America is going have far more relevance and appeal but Borovets was a really good destination for us. Jan and Feb have had poor snow records the past couple of years but we picked a great week. Speaking to a few of the regulars and locals the first week of March has been consistently good so anyone planning a trip might want to take this into account but other than this I would have no hesitation recommending Borovets.
Cheers
jez
After all it is free
After all it is free
Just thought I'd add that I've uploaded a video to YouTube showing how to get to the excellent White House at the top of the gondola in Borovets
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Ah yes, sat in those very seats one day a few seasons ago. Think it was our last day and my first for three days after twisting my knee earlier in the week. Weather had closed in and almost a whiteout so there was seven of us including Krassi. We all got quite smashed on the landlords Rakia, but made it down to mid station later though.
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Hey Basil,
You might like this little gem from Krassi about the snow last week....
pigbite, Doh!, not the same bloke. The one I know is in his late 40's or older.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
pigbite, respect to you for learning a bit of Bulgarian. I learnt a bit of Serbo-Croat before we went to Kapaonik, years ago. Was fun, and whilst not very useful for advanced conversations it helped to break the ice and made things more interesting. I made tapes which I played to myself commuting to work in East Kilbride. I learnt it fast, and forgot it equally fast!
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Here's another vid showing our accommodation.
Much more space than a place in France - including a sauna in the chalet!
FAQ
Poster: A snowHead
. He's only five and was really happy.
Did you learn Bulgarian for the holiday or do you have Bulgarian connections?
- including a sauna in the chalet!
