 Poster: A snowHead
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Not long to go now till we're off to Peisey Vallandry and I'm looking for any insider knowledge you may have.
We're a group of piste skiers with a few years experience (it varies) who will be stopping for coffees and light lunches (read: cheap and greasy) and will be going over to La Plagne too.
So what's unmissable? Where's the best place to go when the sun is shining, or if its not? Who sells the best coffee for a couple of euros, and the worst for far too many? Any tips for lunch on the slopes, or beers within reach of PV? Any runs that we shouldn't come home before trying?
I also need to make a decision about lessons. The options are a couple of hours with ESF for about 76 euros for 2 of us, or NewGen for a tech skills course 2x 2 hours I think, but about 140 euros per person. Anyone tried either option?
Okay, that's all the questions for now... I'm sure I'll think up some more 
Thanks in advance.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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NewGen are very good, and I've been happy to pay the premium to use them.
The Bulle bar above Arc 2000 seems to be the cheapest place for on hill drinking, and does cheap pizza and other food for a quick lunch. Espresso there is 90 cents, which is the cheapest coffee I've bought anywhere. The Arprette restaurant above Arc 1800 has a terrific terrace which is great for end of the day drinks, with amazing views across the Tarentaise valley. It's also a good place for lunch, but eat early or late as it gets very busy. There are a few snack bars on the piste which are good for a quick refuel, including one above Peisey.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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The Forperet restaurant on the route down to Montalbert.... brilliant views and good food...
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Scarlet, Perhaps you are something of an aesthete? If so, be sure to spend lots of time around Plange Centre admiring the wonderful way the sensitive architecure compliments the beautiful mountain environment.
I'm always rendered speechless whenever I'm there.
The designer in charge now works as a liftie on the Roche de Mio gondola so you can drop in there and tell him what you think about it personally
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Another vote for La Vache and Bulle bar here - Had lunch and hot chcolate stops at both last week and they were the best we found ( apart from when we went over to La Thuile from La Ros ).
The Bulle did get a bit rammed at times, just check the number of skis laying outside first, you wont see through the steamed up windows of the dome from the outside. Book La Vache for lunch, seemed to be run by a very nice bi-lingual lady with a team of very enthusiastic staff. Menu is very varied, good and well priced.
IMHO - the Arpette was over priced for it's hot chocolate that was also not good quality. can't vouch for the views from the terrace as it was snowing and poor vis at the time.
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| CP wrote: |
Book La Vache for lunch, seemed to be run by a very nice bi-lingual lady with a team of very enthusiastic staff. Menu is very varied, good and well priced.
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Yup, that's Celine - she does lunch most days, except Sundays. Chloe & Fee are the English managers, & they tend to work evenings. A favourite of ours 
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Favourite runs:
Malgovert (wonderful on-piste run that feels like off-piste. Les Arcs version of Val d'Isere's Vallee Perdue).
Aiguille Rouge run to Villaroger. Cable car to top can get busy & as you will struggle to get there first thing in the day from Peisey, the quietest time to get the cable car may be lunchtime. The lifts back from Villaroger run late, and you can get back to Peisey from 1950 with only one lift (Bois de L'Ours) but it is easy to drop too low & need a second lift so practice your route home if you plan to be skiing in the 1950 or Villaroger sector late in the day.
If in freeze-thaw cycle, then good skiing is often to be found around snowpark/Froide Fontaine areas in the afternoon.
Cafes:
+1 for Bullee
Avoid Blue Bar in 1800: very overpriced.
Eating:
Try the barbeque place that has just opened in 1950. Run by an eccentric South African. Chilli is v good.
If you get down to Villaroger, La Ferme is the place to eat. If you want to spoil yourselves in the sun then the Chalet de Solliet on the Aiguille Rouge run above Villaroger (expensive if eating a la carte although there may still be a self-service option).
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Scarlet, The best free entertainment on the mountain is at the altiport resturant near the snow park. They have a water slide which is fun to watch and even better to try yourself before you go home. (You may well get wet). See my facebook group page 'Les Arcs Ski and Snowboard Info group' photos. Link below.
The malgovert nature piste (unpisted red run) has not been open yet this season, but many people are still going down it, loads of fun.
There are 9 other unpisted nature rides in Les Arcs so if you like well groomed pistes look carefully at the piste map first and if it says nature piste then remember that is 'unpisted'.
Bulle get's my vote, also snack bar above Peisey Chair, also snack bar near middle of Transarc gondola, snack bar on the Arpette ridge and the one half way down the Arc 2000 bowl. Malee's in Arc 1950 is also very cheap. Ceasar Resturant at Pre Esprit also good.
Solliet on the way down to Villaroger is much better than the Ferme at the bottom I think. Loads of other places so see the list on group page.
ESF in PV is good and much cheaper than New Gen. I do not understand why New Gen charge as much as in Courchevel.
If you go to the Les Arcs thread in the snow reports section you will get all the latest updates everyday. Have a good trip, might see you in the Mont Blanc in Vallandry. Good for beer and food at lunch time.
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Another vote for ESF in PV, their group lessons are super cheap and were immense fun and I'd recommend them - can't remember the instructor name right now annoyingly....
Les Arcs is one of my favourite resorts it's almost all great intermediate terrain. Malgovert can be very tough, for less experienced intermediates or anyone nervy - warm up somewhere else as if you don't like the look of it your only other choice is the black mogul run comborciere iirc...Same goes for the top of Aguille rouge which is also tricky- in bad condinitons the black is easier. Easier cruising is the run from the charmettoger lift, and the red under the arcabulle, and all the runs into PV itself which are all similar, but good fun and quiet.
Have a great time!
aj xx
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Where is the new hut above peisey? I managed to miss it when there in Jan, but will look out for it April
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Boris, Its just above the TSD Peisey lift, to the right - if you stand with your back to the lift looking up the hill - easiest accessed from Grive or Ecureil
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rob@rar, Mouth, Thanks for the tips. I'll make a note so we know which ones to head for when we're stopping in the area.
genepi, Where is the Altiport and the water splash? I'm trying to make a mental note of all these places against the piste map, but can't find this. Which park is the water splash in? Sounds like a laugh, but personally I prefer to stay dry!
As for ESF - do you know if it's possible to book a specific instructor, i.e. Fred? We just want 1 or 2 private lessons.
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You know it makes sense.
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red 27, I detect a hint of sarcasm, oui? Is it the same beautiful style of architecture that can also be found in Tignes, or Avoriaz? I have heard compliments from far and wide...
Actually, I'm there for the skiing and don't give two hoots what the buildings look like. In fact, I found Avoriaz seemed to sit well in it's rocky position, and even Tignes looks okay with a foot of snow on top. Buildings built in a more "traditional" style can look out of place and a bit Disneyfied. I remember seeing fake icicles in Chatel.
al.p, An eccentric South African barbecue sounds just like or kind of thing - I'll look out for that. Do you know what it's called?
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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snowcrazy, Thanks for the tips. Is the water slide in the "Apocalypse" park by the Clair Blanc lift? Is there an inflatable landing pad here too, like the one in Tignes?
I've heard lots of good things about New Gen, but at 4 times the price of the ESF, I'm not sure it's worth it.
I've been keeping a close eye on your other thread, and if the wifi is working, we'll be picking up your fb updates each morning so another thanks for the translation.
a.j., I like it when people say it's their favourite resort - means I've probably made a good choice
I know that conditions can vary, but are there any "easy" blacks in the Paradiski area? You see, I've never been down a black run and I think the problem is in my head to some degree. I could do with trying some that won't put me off for life, if anyone can recommend any in the area. Or do you think I would be better off on these "naturides"?
Also, where are the best areas to head for in La Plagne? We don't want to be traipsing over there and then missing out on the good stuff!
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Scarlet, I'd recommend NOT starting on the naturides, pisting makes life easier in almost all conditions, those naturides in les arcs have done for me more than once (and I would claim I _am_ a black run skier, most of the time). Admittedly last time I went it was very snowy which wasn't helping. Paradiski isn't much for black runs, and I think the ones they have are fairly solidly black, however if memory serves the black from aguille rouge is very manageable after a rather steep start, it's the one I'd recommend for a first try as long as the snow is ok (which it should be that high). Anyone else got a better memory of it to confirm? Last time I went we were doing 4 corners challenge so it all passed in a bit of a blur 
One other way to crack the black barrier is to take a private lesson and tell the instructor you just want to do a black run. After looking traditionally disdainful for a minute  they will take you to a red to check you aren't suicidal, then the easiest black in resort, and following their line you will be AMAZED how easy such runs can be - you don't have time for nerves, too busy concentrating and you know you have an expert who has faith you can do it, and can help if you, erm, can't! Once you have done a run escorted it's easy to return and practice on it as you KNOW you can do it, which removes one of those mental blocks. If you think the problem is in your head it might be E40 worth spending!
La plagne is lovely once you get a little height, definately go over if you are based in PV. I'd not bother with the glacier, the gondola is slow and it's not really very different when you get there. The low stuff around the vanoise isn't usually in great conditions imo, so once over I immediately head UP, UP, UP on three chairs (don't have map to hand atm so no names!) and then head towards belle plagne, bellecote and centre. The runs around Belle & bellecote are mostly easy cruising blues, head further 'right' on the map and it gets harder (in a good way!) around Plagne Centre, over the back to champagny is nice, but slushy every time I've been, presumably it gets the sun more, or maybe is lower? Don't feel you HAVE to make it to montalbert, it's worth it for the challenge but the skiing isn't special compared to the rest of the area and the lifts are old.
There might be some old trip reports on here from me with more detail - they all blur a bit into one over time!
aj xx
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Piste grading obviously varies from resort to resort. The blacks in Les Arcs are fairly average I would have thought: not too easy but not too hard. The unpisted naturides tend to be mogul-fests and their difficulty is dependent on snow conditions. The Aiguille Rouge black probably is more of a "red" - except for the very first bit which invariably has monster moguls but is easily avoided by taking the adjacent Arandelieres (red) and then joining the black on the glacier about 100 metres below.
Incidentally the mid-section of Arandelieres just below the bottom of the cable car is pretty "black" even though labelled red (straight down the fall line, steep and often fairly icy).
The black "refuge" run (Grand Col lift) is fairly straightforward, presumably black because the upper bit tends to be moguled.
Can't remember the name of the BBQ restaurant but you can't miss it as you will ski into the main street where all the bars and restaurants are. For those who know 1950 it is where East used to be (now closed). You might also try the creperie (La Bollee) in 1950.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Hmmm,
Trying to get the wife interested in this place. Got what seems like a decent deal in the Terra Nova for a week for £399 with Crystal Ski flying from Scotland. We're both a bit loathe to leave our 3 year old with granny for a whole week though, although we realise it would probably make our first ski holiday a lot simpler.
Decisions decisions. Although if she carries on her lessons at Snozone this month I think she'll find the blues over there quite good.
There's flights to Chambery and Geneva (transfers included), can anyone recommend the best destination to have the minimum transfer time?
I've also been looking at the Oxygene website for lessons and kindergarden, and it looks quite good. Does anyone have any recommendations for this?
If only we hadnt had the patio and driveway done last month, Grrr!!!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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genepi, Thanks for that, we'll get in touch with them and see what we can sort out.
I had a look at snowcrazy's, water slide pics - looks like madness to me. How deep is it? Will definitely be going over for a gander though!
a.j., Well you seem to have plenty of confidence! Instructors often roll their eyes at me, so i'm sure it will be no different this time!
Is champagny worth the trek? Can't really see it on the piste maps I've looked at. How far down is it?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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| Scarlet wrote: |
| I had a look at snowcrazy's, water slide pics - looks like madness to me. How deep is it? |
Knee deep.
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| blert596 wrote: |
Hmmm,
Trying to get the wife interested in this place. Got what seems like a decent deal in the Terra Nova for a week for £399 with Crystal Ski flying from Scotland. We're both a bit loathe to leave our 3 year old with granny for a whole week though, although we realise it would probably make our first ski holiday a lot simpler.
Decisions decisions. Although if she carries on her lessons at Snozone this month I think she'll find the blues over there quite good.
There's flights to Chambery and Geneva (transfers included), can anyone recommend the best destination to have the minimum transfer time?
I've also been looking at the Oxygene website for lessons and kindergarden, and it looks quite good. Does anyone have any recommendations for this?
If only we hadnt had the patio and driveway done last month, Grrr!!! |
Can't help you with the Terra Nova or ski school: is it in La Plagne rather than Les Arcs? La Plagne is fine for a first ski holiday with or without kids. You probably won't go across to Les Arcs more than once if you're beginners/early intermediates.
Seems harsh, but if you both want to ski probably best to leave the 3 year old at home if this is a viable option. Then save up for following years & go with a family specialist company (Espirit highly recommended but expensive). Hotel/resort childcare can be hit or miss & unless you have a very robust child, unhappy childcare could seriously detract from your holiday.
Chambery is closer and would be my choice. Occasionally gets shut in snow, however mid-way though season chances of this happening must be low. Transfer from Geneva a bit longer (~2.5-3h versus ~1.5h perhaps), but it's no big deal as there is a new motorway and the Alpine scenery is spectacular. In fact if this is your first time in the Alps it would be worth taking the longer drive simply for the experience and fun of the growing excitement as you approach the resort. The biggest pain about TO holidays is sometimes hanging around at Geneva waiting for other flights to come in before your coach leaves. I would guess that there would be less chance of this happening at Chambery which has fewer flights. Again, no big deal if this is your first time skiing as you will probably be too excited. It's only when you've done it a few times that it becomes a pain. (If flying to Geneva take some food for the transfer).
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Scarlet, no one has said it yet. But, for an easy black - head for the Ecuriels black - far right of the piste map takes you down into Peisey. Fast, usually in good condition, no moguls ... overgraded as a black. Definately the one to pop your cherry on...
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Richie_S, is that one in a (wide) gully at the top? Or am I mixing up my resorts now.....
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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It starts at the top of the Grizzly lift. That's probably the trickiest bit - the first few hundred yards - but join it from the top of the Peisey lift and it's rather pleasant. Does it have a wide gully at the top..? Not sure it does, really. Maybe from the top of the peisey lift as you join it from there... it is wide ish, and kind of banked at the sides.... does that constitute a gully?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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FAQ
But easily avoided, & now the evenings are lengthening, its nice to stop for a beer at Altiport to watch the craziness of the water splash (or join in if you feel like it 
) & then head back when all is quiet. Bellette is lovely - turn right after the steep bit & go down Rhodos & - if its open- Barmont down to Grizzly & up again. Grand Col is good, Coombe if open is lovely too.
You can try it then & bail out by the hut just above the Peisey lift, if you are not enjoying it 
I also distantly remember one of us deciding we must have come off the black onto something else - so I agree, it's probably a good first choice 