 Poster: A snowHead
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
Ooh that DPS Wailer RP getting heavier by the minute? True one ski quiver?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
fatbob, more for the W105s really 
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
Can't see how that will make a difference if the holes are matched/close.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
altis, No.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Arno, i used something similar on some VIST riser plates to beef em up a bit and am really happy i went for it, i have pulled out binding screws on a couple pairs of skis and these are rock solid.
Jon did the heli coiling for me... he had some ski specific inserts from SVST ( i think) and the tapping tool so i didnt bother buying myself, i seem to remember another system was coming out that he was looking at so these may be old hat... best to ask jon
http://www.svst.com/Categories3.aspx?Category=f090e5c2-639c-4bfc-a747-0248f5624901
The alpine thread is an odd ball and not metric so i would be careful about using generic machine screw inserts like tappex.. they might work but...
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
Alpine binding screws are bound by ISO 6004:1991. This calls up ISO 1478:1999 which specifies all metric self-tapping screws.
Consequently, all alpine binding screws have an ST5.5x1.8 (ie 5.5mm in diameter and 1.8mm pitch) metric, self-tapping thread.
You can get inserts with this thread on the inside. For example, Snoli make a number of them. However, it is more common to replace the self-tapping screws with machine ones (either M5 or M6) when using a full set of inserts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
altis, sorry when i said odd thread i should have been specific and said self tapping and not a machine screw thread
not a bad plan if you are going to use inserts to just replace self tappers with machine screws. i tend to shim out my bindings and it is really hard to find long self tap alpine screws.. good tip thanks...
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
Arno, I've not fitted any of the Puderluder inserts but I have fitted the Snoli version to a couple of pairs of skis for my mate to swap his pivot bindings over. The outside thread on the brass Snoli inserts can be a bit iffy & it's easy to strip them if you're not careful. The Puderluder looks a lot sturdier. altis's Triset fixings look interesting but I couldn't see a blind ended insert in a suitable size on their site so I'll give them a ring tomorrow & see what they've got. I'd be happy to get either the Puderluders or the Trisets in for you & fit them. Have you checked your various bindings for hole location conflicts?
For repairing pull-outs I'd think that the pucka helicoils are best (which I usually epoxy in as it's going in an already busted hole, albeit one that's been drilled out) probably due to the coarser outer thread - but they are designed for conventional self tapping screws to be permanently inserted.
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
Hello everyone, I'm Nick and I am making the PuderLuder Binding Inserts.
The origin of these was a need that formed from the TGR collective (Teton Gravity Research forum). If you check out this link or this one , and have lots of time, the entire story can be read.
Basically, people wanted a really nice, clean insert. The major beefs with existing versions where:
1) they were brass (too soft and stripped easy)
2) too big (either too long as to go all the way trough your ski or too far into the base, or too wide- too coarse of a thread/way oversized)
3) not blind (had an open end, could see through them therefore not providing water tightness once installed).
4) too expensive
The final design was a consensus.
- Stainless Steel (obviously)
- ~8mm length is well contained within the thickness of your ski
- The 5/16-18 outter thread seemed like a good choice to make a great connection into the ski with only ~8mm of length
- The M5 inner thread is a good dia to match with most binding holes and gives a lot of threads for that connection as well.
- Blind end so they are water tight.
The installation is really easy and I've done it a bunch of times myself with only a hand drill. True, you should tap the hole first with a 5/16-18 tap, but these are available from McMaster-Carr for about $5 (part number 2521A642). If you are out of the country I'd be happy to re-sell you one of these taps at cost.
While not the only option for inserts, I believe the are by far the BEST, far an away. Spend some time reading all the reviews on those TGR links, people really love them. Plus, they are only $1 each! If you are still skeptical, please shoot me a PM with your address and I'd be happy to mail you a couple to play with.
Best,
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
PuderLuder, welcome the  's i am sure a few here will be investing....
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
Hmm not really considered this but might make sense to mount my Dukes up with them so I can swap them to another ski in future - sounds like a SH group purchase to minimise shipping might be in order.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
I spoke to Tappex today & they're send me some samples. They do make an ideally sized insert however it's an open design not blind. The blind inserts they do are either too small, too large or not available in stainless.
I've PM'd PuderLuder re a bulk order so Arno/skimottaret et al, let me know if you want some fitting.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
| fatbob wrote: |
| Hmm not really considered this but might make sense to mount my Dukes up with them so I can swap them to another ski in future - sounds like a SH group purchase to minimise shipping might be in order. |
I'll be happy to supply snowHeads with PuderLuder's inserts for their own installation or I'll offer a chargeable installation service. I've started to source various length stainless M5 screws in the differing head styles required. Already got screws sorted for my P18's
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Sun 26-09-10 16:17; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
spyderjon, any views on drilling skis so they will take dynafits and dukes (depending on which match my trousers on the day in question )?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
Arno, I can't see a problem getting the correct head profiles on the M5 screws so the only problem would be if the holes conflict with each other. If you've already got both types of binding just put your two skis side by side with the BCL's aligned and have a look. If you haven't got both then tell me your BSL & I'll print a Dynafit template & compare it against my Duke jig.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
Bulk order placed with PuderLuder including a couple of spare drills/taps for DIY'ers. Should arrive mid Oct.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
skimottaret, 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
When you say 'open' do you mean like a tube and 'closed' they would be more like a bucket so that any water lying in them would be contained and not rotting into the ski?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Is the idea that that you take an existing ski and add these inserts to the existings drilled holes, then refit the bindings? then repeat on a 2nd pair of skis, so you could, for example, move your dukes between skis?
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
kitenski, that's one possibility. you can take a couple of pairs of skis on a trip but only need to take 1 pair of bindings
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
kitenski, i have some vist speedlock plates and 614 binders if your interested, does the same thing but no tools...
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
skimottaret, thanks but I am just interested in the concept, rather than needing to solve a problem at the moment 
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
|
kitenski, ahh... needs and wants... i tend to want to try this new stuff out and create loads of problems that then need solving the vist speedplate with interchangeable tele and alpine bindings being a case in point..
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Fifespud wrote: |
| When you say 'open' do you mean like a tube and 'closed' they would be more like a bucket so that any water lying in them would be contained and not rotting into the ski? |
Yes, The Puderluder Binding Inserts are like a "bucket". Therefore if you properly set them with epoxy they provide a very durable and watertight seal to your ski.
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
| kitenski wrote: |
| Is the idea that that you take an existing ski and add these inserts to the existings drilled holes, then refit the bindings? then repeat on a 2nd pair of skis, so you could, for example, move your dukes between skis? |
Yes, that is one of many uses for them. Someone just posted on my Puderluder Binding Insert FaceBook page that he put the inserts into 4 pairs of skis and was then able to fly to Lenas with all 4 pairs with zero hassle since you can pack them so well without bindings attached.
Others will use them to switch between bindings on a single pair of skis, for instance an alpine binding and a tour binding.
Others like them to mount tele bindings since they are stronger then the regular binding screws.
Please check out the FB page , you don't need a FB account to see it, and I think there are enough pictures and reviews (in the notes section) to get a good idea of what these are all about.
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
|
PuderLuder, Do you need to use loctite to stop the screws from coming lose
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
| Glen Charman wrote: |
| PuderLuder, Do you need to use loctite to stop the screws from coming lose |
I would say yes. When I've put bindings on knowing that I would only be skiing them for a day I hadn't with no issues. But I also have the experience of the M5 screws loosening up over time if loctite is not used.
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
Just to add to Nick's comment above.
We use Loctite 243 (Blue) Anti-vibration thread glue on all our race ski binding set ups to ensure the screws do not come loose, we then add a small amount of luminous orange torque seal on the head of the screw as a visual aid to check that the screw has not come loose during racing/training.
Just a couple of points on application – make sure the screw is completely grease free before applying the Loctite (use brake cleaner to clean) and only a small amount.
243 (Blue) is better than 222 (Pink) for strength and vibration purposes. Also if you do carry out a bolt check on your bindings, be careful not to over tighten the screw and turn it as this will break the Loctite and take away the fastening properties.
In our workshop we use a dial gauge torque tool so that we know the bolts have been set to a pre-determined torque (i.e. 4 n/m) and can re-check to that exact torque without over torquing and breaking the glue seal – (very important).
Apologies if it’s a bit ‘race teccy’ but some useful points on the application side..
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Sun 22-08-10 0:02; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
spyderjon, let me know when they arrive. Will be definitely doing this with my skis going forward, if only to save on ski carriage weight!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
Sideshow_Bob, will do
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you're looking to have these fitted to two or more pairs of skis and just carry one set of bindings how can you manage the ski brake width across skis of different dimensions?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, obviusly the brakes will have to fit both skis- or I suppose you could carry two sets of brakes. My quiver is a 105 and 122 waisted ski and I get away with switching out my FR+'s with XL brakes no problem.
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
rob@rar, yep, if you own a wide range of widths you might need additional brakes but they're still a lot less weight/cost than a full set of bindings. My skis are 99mm & 112mm underfoot & the same brakes are great on both & would be fine right down to a 90mm ski. I think it would be rare to need more than two brake widths.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
spyderjon, put me down for a couple of sets please. Have a set of dukes that I want to share between a few sets of skis. The fact that you can then travel with one decent set of binders and multiple planks easily is tops.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
am thinking about going for a highly customised Head setup with VIST race plate on some Head Titans and binning the head plate. hours of DIY hassle coming... 