Poster: A snowHead
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Hi all
During my travels I've heard on different occasions, that after applying ski wax with an iron, let skis cool & set overnight before scraping sees a noticeable result in performance.
I'm not claiming to be a professional before the torrent of 'prove me wrongs' just asking is there some credibility to it? I know it may depend on flouro's etc but if it works I'll give it a go lol
Your thoughts please
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 25-01-11 15:49; edited 2 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Bikini Line ?
Neck, back then crack before any big night out is my routine.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Angry Squirrel, yep... i've read that as well. longest i've managed to leave the wax on is a couple of hours though.
I think that as long as you don't scrape it off straight away or before it's had a chance to cool then you'll be ok.
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Angry Squirrel what type of iron and wax do you use ?
This can sometimes be important...
Though it depends on the phases of the moon
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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shoogly wrote: |
Angry Squirrel, yep... i've read that as well. longest i've managed to leave the wax on is a couple of hours though.
I think that as long as you don't scrape it off straight away or before it's had a chance to cool then you'll be ok. |
Because on the flipside I've also heard a few times that by scraping soon after ironing, leaves a thinner layer therefore better?
Dunno which is better, just want the one that works the best lol
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As most skis come in pairs, why not scrape one in the evening and the other next morning. Then see if there is any noticeable difference when you ski them.
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Adrian wrote: |
As most skis come in pairs, why not scrape one in the evening and the other next morning. Then see if there is any noticeable difference when you ski them. |
Only going for a week this season mate as getting married in May and I'm skint! and not taking gear with me lol
found this link: http://www.escnordic.org.uk/ think I'll go with Shoogly's method and scrape before its cooled
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Angry Squirrel wrote: |
Only going for a week this season mate as getting married in May and I'm skint! and not taking gear with me lol |
and I was hoping you would do a host of tests and trials and then report your findings. Congrats on the May marriage.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Angry Squirrel wrote: |
think I'll go with Shoogly's method and scrape before its cooled |
hold on hold on!!!
no where did i say that you should scrape before it's cooled!!! The last thing you want to do is go for a ski after hot scraping your skis!!!!
you want it to cool as much as possible to allow the wax to soak into the base before scraping.
do a hot scrape if you want, but as this is generally done to get dirt out of the base, you need to rewax and cold scrape after that!
then wax again just for good measure
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For prelim treatment I always do a hot scrape just to get the dirt out and a good brush-out with a brass brush.Then (and this is only my way) I iron in a layer of universal wax (holmenkol pink) and leave the skis in the hot-press overnight,next day scrape,brush,fibretex and give it another coat of wax - leave for an hour or so then scrape,brush,fibretex,cork and zardoz - this does the trick for me when I'm going on snow - if I'm training on dendix it's just a quick coat of rock-hard dryslope wax ironed in and not scraped-apart from the bits that drip onto the edges.Enjoy...
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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briand6868, that sounds like a lot of effort. Does it really make a noticeable difference? I've never had much problem with just removing the old stuff and sticking one new layer on.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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el nombre - I'm just a weirdo and tried the hot-press thing for a laugh after Fattes13 told me about "hot boxes" - no laughing from the cheap seats please !!!!!. I've skied on early season ice in St Anton with just 1 coat of half scraped club wax and got on ok - but I just enjoy servicing skis and when you only get to the snow for 1-2 weeks a year I like to have my gear in top condition - I also get plenty of practice on my sons race skis so can probably get it done quicker than most.
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I'd only scrape in the unlikely event of being racing, or in the (apparently equally unlikely event) of a big dump of powder snow. Otherwise wax, leave 'em in a warm place for it to soak in nicely (usually overnight as we do it after skiing) and then go skiing the next day. I once scraped one, and not the other, then put them on at random on a slope pisted overnight, and couldn't tell the difference. So anything fancier is probably wasted on me.
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You know it makes sense.
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I apply hot wax then dont scrape as well.
You seem to be a bit slower for half a day but then seems quite good performance.
I always feel that the wax last longer that way 4-5 days skiing before needing to re wax.
Am a bit worried if wax is too thick on might just break or scrape off more easily though.
Any wax experts with opinions on these things please.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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deffcookie,
Welcome to SnowHeads i like the name.. nice twist of it.
growing up racing from 5yrs old and having a very DIY father/coach, I learned to wax at a very young age.
i wont go into the race-prep waxing as its rather long winded... but when we recreationally waxed skis, it would be:
With tiny amount of wax dripped as lubricant, to heat bases and simply allow the heat to open up the bases
Then full Hot wax - both skis
Then immediately scrape (wax is still quite warm and bases too) as a means to clean
Then lightly brushing the bases
Then Hot waxing again
Then overnight cooling
Then scraping the next day - not a full scraping, but a fair amount.
Then after scraping - Ski our brains out.... Or if the bases look thirsty, another light layer of wax, cooled 2 hours and lightly scraped then Ski our brains out
By not scraping, you are indeed going to have a much slower start to your day
-no advised
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Poster: A snowHead
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You need to wait that wax cools off... with all waxes today, this takes maximum 20-30mins, in most cases much less. So there's no need to wait for few hours, or even over night before scraping off.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I bought the service pack from Edge & Wax back in Nov as I was going to sell a fair amount of kit on fleabay that needed tarting up!
Over the years (which there are many) I just had shops in the resorts do the servicing of my boards / skis.
I followed the destructions you can download to the letter on the Edge & Wax site http://www.edgeandwax.co.uk/blog.aspx?tag=bootcamp
And waxed skis as per their instructionb plus filled a few holes etc etc
Once I had done the skis for FleaBay I turned my attention to my new Scott Missions - now have to own up to being a wee bit confused as I saw on the Scott site that the skis come ready to ski - anyway had a new pair the year before and the guys at Edge & Wax said they have to be waxed etc so decided to do it myself this year, which was a tad unnerving in that I might be taking off a perfectly factory tuned wax on the ski and replacing it with my bolloxed attempt!
Once out in the mountains I was damn chuffed with the results, on the flats I was going past loads of people and leaving my friends way behind - sometimes I'd pass a "good" skier who just looked at me amazed at how I was easing pass them.
I think the one thing I did which might have helped is that I really put some elbow greases into brushing the ski after scraping.
This is the wax instructions which does mention hot wax etc and other options http://www.edgeandwax.co.uk/Images/downloads/stepbystep3.pdf
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Sleipnir, they are "normal" roto brushes. Back in my World cup tech days, I have been using them (not Holmenkol ones, but Swix ones since they are a whole lot better ones, but still). But nowadays, I have normal brushes only. Main advantage of roto brushes is, that your work is a whole lot easier (and roto brushes do their work a bit better then normal ones). If you have pair or two of skis to do, and 0.01sec faster ski doesn't matter, then it doesn't matter. If you have 30 pairs to do, and you are WC racer when even 0.01sec matters, then roto brushes are only way to go.
So for home use, I wouldn't be spending that much, but on the other side, there's not much of difference between roto brush and normal oval brush (except that you need to add extra 50 or 60eur for handle and stuff... and battery powered drilling machine, but everyone has that already ).
As far as "cheaper alternative" goes, I would rather stick with real thing, not some brush you get in normal stores. They might work, but I like my skis too much, that I would be willing to try this with brushes meant for cleaning toilet for example
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I got a Toko nylon brush recently which I plan to use for after the scraping bit (to get some structure into the base). Can I use the same brush for cleaning the base (after hot wax/immediate scraping) or is that another brush? I'd really prefer to have as few brushes as possible.
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snowman, a brass brush would have been better as a 'one brush solution' as a nylon brush is not really stiff enough - it's really just for final polishing. The reason for the brushing you're doing is to clean out/polish the base structure grooves (not to add structure) to allow the surface tension in the moisture/water layer between the ski/snow to be broken & for the grooves to shed the water - all to give a stick free glide.
To manually add structure (as opposed to a machine stone grind) you either need a special very stiff metal bristle brush which scratches the grooves in the base or specialist base structure tool like a riler bar or a Ski Visions Structure Cutter.
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my mother left wax on for 7 months on her skis, she said they skied better this time than ever (she's only had them like 4 seasons though)
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