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Folgarida, Italy: Trip report Jan 2011

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Trip Report: Jan 15 – 22 2011

Resort: Folgarida, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.

Ski Pass: Full area – Folgarida/Marilleva/Madonna di Campliglio

TO: Folgarida.co.uk

After some of the concerns beginning to emerge in early January that conditions in Europe were on the patchy side, I was comforted by the various reports beginning to filter through for Folgarida that suggested a decent covering following some decent precipitation.

My oh my, we weren’t to be disappointed. All pistes open and, with the help of many of the snow-cannons in this corner of Italy, all runs to resort achievable. Comfortably. Madeye-Smiley

This was a revisit to the area, following a successful trip 2 years ago. This time with a couple we met last year in AdH.

Although only 45 minutes from Gatwick, the SO and I decided to go on Friday evening and stay at an off-site hotel and leave the car there for the week - £68 for the room and parking plus shuttle to and fro. The Cambridge Hotel was clean, the dinner rather bland, breakfast quite good and transfer about 10 minutes. Price-wise, for drinks and food, it was an early introduction to the greater costs for slope-side nourishment and refreshment! Not quite at the same level, but on the way! Shocked

The carrier was BA. Fast check-in, slightly more room on the plane, free drinks but no food bar a bag of nuts and raisins. Thank God for the cooked breakfast at the Cambridge. We duly met up with the couple we’d planned the trip with and headed for the bar for some après check-in refreshments. Toofy Grin Well, the flight was due to depart at 12.35, so no-one felt too guilty about getting the holiday underway with a round of bevvies. Madeye-Smiley

An uneventful flight and smooth transfer through Verona airport where we met Wayne, Lucy and Sara from Folgarida.co.uk. Pleasantries exchanged, we were led to the transfer coach – a comfortable affair – and off for the 2.5 hour trip to Folgarida. Another uneventful journey with the usual rising anticipation and lively chatter as the sun began to set on the mountains imbuing the snow-covered tips with a reddish hue.

Because our flight was eventually late leaving, we were 45 minutes behind schedule, arriving at the resort at about 6pm. The Folgarida.co.uk (F.c.uk?) team arranged for the ski hire shop to remain open so we duly tipped up and sorted out our gear in readiness for the morning. We’d pre-booked basic level skis, as is the deal with the TO which one can then upgrade if so required. The overall price for top range skis represents a much better price than if booked independently, even when adding in the 5€ for insurance. A good deal!

The temperatures were on the rise, so the first 3 days were more in tune with Spring! However, such was amount of snow, the skiing was simply excellent.

Day 1 was not without drama! In fine spirits, under clear blue skies, we headed up the gondola for the 8 minute journey to the first station at 1855m. A quick run up on the modern 4 man chair to Monte Spolverino and a warm up run down blue 6 for the first slide of 2011. Fantastic! And that was where one could say that the day may have taken the turn that became a bit of a drama.

We’d all agreed to extend our Folgarida/Marilleva ski pass to incorporate Madonna di Campiglio. The basic area is included in the package. One has to pay for the extension once in resort. Being relatively experienced skiers, a wise choice, to increase the skiing area considerably. It was the SO’s only day heading that way as it transpired.

Looking back, we probably took on just too many runs for the first day. No problem for 2 of us. A bit of a problem for 1 and a huge problem for the other. By the time we decided to head back, the SO had skied herself out and was tired. After a long morning, skiing really well, tiredness conspired to effect technique and consequently confidence. In dwindling light and dropping temperatures, it took us 45 minutes to ski the end of red 14, a 200m steep and, by this time, very chopped up piste. The only route back to Folgarida (on skis). Because of concerns about lift closure, the couple we were with pressed on, quite rightly. The next red, 9, took another 45 minutes of encouraging, persuading and cajoling to get down. During which time the lift system stopped and the pisteurs skied by on their way off the mountain.

Red 9 drops into an area where blue 18 provides a track return to 1855 and what we hoped would be a still running telecabin. By the time we got there, in the gloom, the lift had stopped. By this time the SO was weary, distraught and contemplating a longish, chopped up blue 2 with survival skiing down to Folgarida. It took about an hour! In darkness, tired and cold! What a way to end what had started out as a first class day.

It did frame the rest of the week to a degree, in so far that we didn’t ski as a complete group over to Madonna again. That said, the SO was quite happy (ish) to potter about, take a lesson etc, whilst we took full advantage of the excellent conditions all over the mountains our passes provided access to.

As the week progressed, temperatures dropped to a more seasonal norm, the snow recovered to a firmer, happier state at all levels. By Friday, temperatures ranged from -7 to -20 depending on wind chill and height. And still most of the pistes were in stunning conditions.

Folgarida.co.uk will be introducing 3 new hotels to their portfolio for 2012 – in Madonna di Campiglio. With the proposed opening of a new lift to serve the Pinzolo area, there is no doubt that we’ll be back, but probably with a slightly slower start to the first day!!

I haven’t changed my impression of Folgarida/Marilleva/Madonna from my first visit. It is a great place for beginners/progressors/intermediates. Families should get on well here. It isn’t a party resort and it might not suit advanced groups, but would suit mixed. As one gets to know the resort it does reveal some more challenging opportunities, missed the first time round. There is some tree-line off piste to be had – quite a bit in fact. There are some interesting itinerary routes and plenty of marked walking routes.

The TO: Folgarida.co.uk
Thanks to Wayne, Lucy and Sara – they provided useful advice, entertaining company and fun people to ski with on the occasions they were around to do so. Thanks also for the restaurant recommendations and transport organisation to Madonna di Campiglio for a night out there that the SO and I fancied on Thursday.

The package deal included a Folgarida/Marilleva ski pass. To take up a weeks’ extension to include Madonna di Campiglio, one needs to have Wayne in attendance as a new pass is required and explanations made to the ski pass office. The TO provides an A4 sheet with your pre-provided ski pass details plus copy of your photo’s. Take this document too.

Overall, Folgarida.co.uk provided an efficient, friendly service. They are on hand when needed, providing the framework for the holiday, without being in your face. Enjoyed catching up with them at happy hour at the Eta Beta bar!!

The hotel: The Renzi

Situated 150m from the lift – a slight uphill walk and, importantly, downhill on the way back. The people were all friendly, the place is extremely clean and there is a relatively newly installed sauna. The boot room/ski store was fine. The hotel runs a minibus to the lift every morning. From day 3 onwards we relented…..with some guilt…..but not much!
Breakfast: typically continental and a little dull to be honest. Cereal, yoghurt, bread rolls, ham, cheese, croissant. No fresh fruit. And I was yearning for bacon or a sausage or scrambled eggs or something!
Dinner: generally ok but vegetables served on platters, buffet style and cold within about 10 minutes. Decent selection of wines available. Overall, no complaint, but not blown away.
The Bar: pleasant enough, if a little plain. There’s a floor above with table football, pool and table tennis.
Bedrooms: the double bed was two singles, moved together, providing a kingsize bed that was extremely comfortable. The only slight negative is a lack of drawers/shelves for cloths storage. The shower room was modern/clean and the towels changed daily! Also, as an aside, I tend to sleep poorly in the mountains (probably an altitude thing) as others also seem to. So why can't hotels/chalets put in a bedside reading light that isn't more akin to Blackpool Illuminations? Switch on the light to read and wake the whole floor up....A directional or "hooded" light would disturb partners a good deal less.

Folgarida 1300: a small town dominated by low-rise hotels with a small “square” where there is a small supermarket, bank, pharmacy and tobac/souvenir shop. There is one main restaurant, La Buca and very nice it is too plus not too pricey. As for bars……it’s the Eta Beta. Happy hour 4.30-5.30, closes 19.30-21.30 and then open until late. Last week was a little quiet, but the place can get quite buzzy. I like the place and Ricky, the owner, is good value. They also do light snacks…..damn good for soaking up all those large beers with Poire Williams chasers…..

Madonna di Campiglio: the SO and I went there for dinner one evening, recommended to the Fucolore. Wayne sorted out the hotel’s minibus and driver. The 20 minute journey cost 15€ for the round trip - a bargain. I tipped the driver 10€ as I can’t believe the hotel would have given him much for his time. We went at 7.30pm and returned at 10.30, enough time to stroll round the town centre, have a pre-dinner drink, walk 500m to the restaurant and then rendezvous back at the drop off point.

Madonna is not a cheap place to eat and drink at. It is very charming and quite smart, nestled in the shadow of the Spinale mountain. The Antico Focolare was very pleasant – try and sit in the timber-framed area should you visit. Service was superb, matched by the food. The wine (a Montepulchiano 2007 on this occasion) was outstanding at 22€. All in all, 3 courses, wine, cheese, coffee and a brandy was 122€ between us. Worth spoiling yourself IMO.

Mountain eating/refreshments: plenty to choose from, some expensive (for the area), some not. So, I’ll pick my place of the week, already mentioned in an earlier text report. The Refugio Orti. Warm welcome, roaring log fireplace, tasty food and inexpensive. Because the place is halfway down a black run with a seriously steep early section (you can watch people slide down from the terrace if you so desire), it doesn’t seem to get too packed. One can take the lift there from Marilleva and ski off via a blue if so desired. Far better to ski from the top of Dos de la Pesa and reward yourself after that steep section!

I don't think we had one disappointing vin brulle - all delicious and 3-3.5€. The Rif Stopani at the top of Passo Groste above Madonna serves superb hot chocolate and rum, but is on the more expensive side (worth it).

Overall, I think the region offers good value and lower mountain prices than one finds in other alpine countries. Certainly that seemed to be a common comment from other holiday makers I spoke to over the week.

Favourite Run: well a combination from Monte Spinale (in Madonna) with a sweeping red from the top round to the left, drop straight onto black 29 for some acceleration and push on to red 31 down into the valley. In good conditions, with few people around, a heart thumping and thrilling run. Other than that, Red 15 from the Pradalago area is a roller coaster with just about everything going on. Certainly leaves a smile on the face!

Best Fall: Undoubtedly (well there were only 2) on black 1 down to Folgarida on last run home. Merrily putting into practice some handy tips from a local, well-known instructor who kindly offered 30 minutes of free coaching earlier in the day, when an inside ski moment had me hurtling sideways down the piste for 70 odd metres. I say hurtling because the trees at the side of the run were going by in a blur. Managed to keep skis off the ground and consequently still attached to boots, swivel round, push up and arrest the fall. Quick look around, no-one looking and carry on Laughing no harm done.

Skis: hired Volkl Tiger Shark 10ft at 174cm. A step up in size (it was all they had) from the usual 167cm length I normally ski on. Stable at speed yet quite manoeuvrable…..until the mogul field. Whoops, that was quite interesting! I think I skied on them ok….judge for yourself.

http://youtube.com/v/kOkaSc7o9Ro

So that’s it. 21st week on the planks, bring on week 22  Time to go and work off the pounds gained at the Orti and Eta Beta….!! Look out gym, here I come…


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Fri 28-01-11 13:46; edited 5 times in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Great review, really useful thanks!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Quote:

the pisteurs skied by on their way off the mountain.

Shocked around our way it's their job to check everyone's down, and help laggards, not whizz past and leave you to collapse and die of exposure. I was struggling down our home run one day with a visiting father and daughter - she had a bit of a fall and hurt her knee. He wasn't a strong enough skier to carry her and I wasn't a strong enough person to carry her. The pisteur (who lives opposite us) just scooped her up and carried her down. That does sound a nasty end to the day for the OH. Sympathies. I think it's horrible out on the mountain late on, if the light is fading and you're worn out and stressed about missing lifts.
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pam w, that was my understanding too. Clearly the SO was struggling (they would've heard and seen....). Still, at least it was good night skiing experience Laughing
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
johnnyh, you're welcome. Am I right in thinking I've seen a mention that you're due out there fairly soon?
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Chasseur, yes, half term week!

By the way, do you know if BA charge extra for boot bags or do I need to pack my boots in my luggage? Wayne said they charge for skis so I'm not taking mine and will hire in resort.

J
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johnnyh, I saw various people taking them on as hand luggage. Indeed, the friends with us did - no additional charge. Personally I lob my boots in with my luggage - the 23kg weight allowance was plenty.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the area that I can help with, ping me a PM....or ask here, of course.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Enjoyed reading your review as its only three weeks until we go to Folgarida.Have only skied in France and Austria so really looking forward to this trip.
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Chasseur, Good report.
I was thinking of going there next year but the prices have rocketed Crying or Very sad
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Ian L, have a great time. I'm a bit of a convert to Italy (always skied in France apart from a week in Austria) and tend to agree with many of the people I spoke to out there that the prices on the mountain are generally more reasonable, the food is better and the people generally more welcoming/friendly/helpful.

youspurs1, thanks. Folgarida.co.uk are offering a week in 2012 staying in a 3* hotel at £720 for half board, flights, transfers, basic ski hire and Folgarida/Marilleva ski pass. To upgrade the skis is between 20€-30€ plus 5€ insurance. The larger area ski pass was about 40€
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Great report, very enjoyable to read!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
I have printed out your review as a reference,although we wont be very adventurous as we have two teenage girls in our group of 8, who have never seen a pair of skis , let alone strapped them to their feet,but they are booked into ski school so could put me to shame by the end of the week . 22 sleeps to go
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Chasseur was nice to meet you, see ya again sometime.
(PS, don't forget, continue the lowering throughout the rotation then rise into the next turn wink )


snowHead's Wayne & Chasseur (the good looking one on the left)
at Pradalago, Madonna di Campiglio - 21/01/11




youspurs1 wrote:
I was thinking of going there next year but the prices have rocketed Crying or Very sad

The price for next year has gone up by £30 per person per week - sorry about that, stuff keeps going up but I wouldn't call £30 a rocket.
Soory but the price had to go up.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Likewise Wayne - the motion is indelibly imprinted. Thanks! If I can get it consistently right, I'll be wearing the Salice sunnies next time Laughing

Good to see the piccy - don't think there'll be any weak at the knees women PM'ing me though Laughing Laughing Laughing

Give my best to Sara and Lucy. How's the latter's skiing coming on?
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Its a good report, we need more of this type of stuff on here. Looks like a good spot for a holiday.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Frosty the Snowman, certainly a very, very good alternative to you know where wink
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Frosty the Snowman wrote:
Looks like a good spot for a holiday.


Prior to deciding if you're up for it - please read this
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=1471872&highlight=complains#1471872
"then" decide.

We may require a "no-fall-over-guarantee" before allowing bookings.
Toofy Grin Toofy Grin Madeye-Smiley Madeye-Smiley
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Laughing glad I didn't have that agreement in place!
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Hi Chasseur

Thanks for the excellent trip report. I am off to Madonna di Campiglio with the SO this Saturday, and I'm a tad concerned having read your troubles getting back to Folgarida. We had planned on getting the extended pass so that we could try the new link to Folgarida, but now not sure whether we should risk it.

My SO is also a bit on the tentative side, though she's quite fit. To give you an idea, last year we skiied the Sella Ronda in both directions and the only area she had difficulty with was the late-afternoon mogully bit at the top of the north-facing red run above Arabba (the name escapes me). The rest was fine. That said, she did make it down in short traverses, and we did ski it a few times.

If you've skiied the Sella Ronda, would the the red 14 piste be more difficult than anything on that? Also, which direction do you reckon the terrain was more difficult: going from Folgarida to MdC, or the other way (all other things being equal, i.e. not in the dark! Very Happy )

IH
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idlehands wrote:
We had planned on getting the extended pass so that we could try the new link to Folgarida

There is no "new" link. I think you may be thinking of the new link over to pinzolo - although only half of this is open. The rest (new cable car system down into the valley then up the other side) should be open by 2012.
The Folgarida runs are the same as they always have been

To get from MdC to Folgarida - take the C/Lago lift out of MdC then turn right (down the hill towards the next cafe). If you get enough speed up you'll be able to cut above the cafe and take the Folgarida run. If not, then just go down to the bottom of the 4 man chair (about 300m below the cafe) and take that up (it drops you just above the cafe) from there Folgarida is well sign posted.

The run from MdC to Folgarida is "very" easy except for the last drop down to the lift that takes you up towards Marilleva, this is why it's a red and not a blue. - On your piste map, it's the lift up to Orso Bruno.
I have done the SR many times and the run down to the lift is much easier than the bumps on the red above arabba, so she'll be fine. Don't forget to look where you're going. On the last drop the piste is much steeper on the right (looking down) then than left hand side.

On the way back (F to MdC) the only problem you may have, at the end of the day, if you're tired, is the red (No 10) down from Orso Bruno to catch the lift back up in to MdC. Don't forget that the chair that runs down the side takes people down as well as up. So you're a little tired take the chair down. Once back in the MdC area, (on the way back to MdC) from the top of the 4 man chair you can take the blue red or black - take the red then follow the signs for Spinale - as the blue only goes to the bottom of the groste lift and this is a mile up the road from MdC townand a long walk down in ski boots

Any problems send me a PM.
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idlehands, I was there last week and thoroughly enjoyed. The Red 10 from Folgarida towards MdC was one of my favourite runs and has enough room to let it be tackled any way you like. Skiing from one area to the other takes a bit longer than you may imagine from looking at the map, so allow yourself plenty of time if you or a member of your group isn't up to tackling a longish red run in one or without too many turns.

We really enjoyed our trip as well. We stayed in Folgarida but I skied MdC most days and really enjoyed. The reds up on Passo Groste were great especially Red 10.

Enjoy.
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Wayne, you're right of course. I mixed up Folgarida with the new Pinzolo link. Got excited about the latter after having watched the all-singing all-dancing video they made on the MdC website, but I guess we'll have to visit again after 2012 when it's up and running. Many, many thanks for the local knowledge on the lay of the land. I'll tell the missus who to blame if we run into problems Razz

Circusthing, cheers for the advice. I don't see any Red 10 on Passo groste (piste map - http://www.campiglio.it/mappa/groste-spinale/). Was it another run you were thinking of?
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idlehands, Sorry, your quite right. What I should have said was the red underneath lift number 10. It's the piste furthest left as you look at the map for the area. The red from the top of lift 8 was also great - as you get off the chair turn to your right. The left of the piste is pretty easy going but to the right there are a lot of rollers making it great fun.

The pizza at the top of Monte Spolverino were amazing. I think the bar was called Panarama.
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Circusthing wrote:
The pizza at the top of Monte Spolverino were amazing. I think the bar was called Panarama.


They are and it is....+ 1 vote for the place from me snowHead
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idlehands, I've not skied Sella Ronda but, IMO, skiing to Folgarida from MdC will be easier earlier in the day and the reverse trip easier towards the end of the day. As Wayne says, keeping left on the last 150mish drop to the lift up towards Marilleva is the best way. Given the time you'd be heading that way, I'd be surprised if there were any problems - its not that tricky and likely won't be chopped up.
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Circusthing wrote:
I think the bar was called Panarama.


It is - I had lunch there about 20mins ago. Sitting in the sunshine and watching the old germans dancing, ain't life brill Toofy Grin
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Thanks all.

Crikey, j2ski says daytime temp in the town will be going up to +9C this Sunday Shocked - 'Sunday' indeed.
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idlehands, similar to the first few days when we arrived. The conditions were still superb up top snowHead
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