 Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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i just used some loctite 243. if i die i will let you know
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I bought some in Halfords
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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ah, so is it 243 I need? Can find that on ebay 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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kitenski, dunno - I went to a hardware store and asked for "that loctite blue stuff for fixing screws in threads" and that is what i got.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Arno, How easily does it "unfix", for when you want to change bindings?
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Patch, don't know - i will report back when i try it
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Arno, you out skiing this weekend?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I got a little bottle of Blue 243 from this guy on ebay.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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cheers Rob, have you tried an insert/removal of a binding after using the 243?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Arno, Thanks. I'm going to talk to a few of the more experienced guys about inserts in some of the shops in Méribel tomorrow. Will report back with any interesting thoughts
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| kitenski wrote: |
| cheers Rob, have you tried an insert/removal of a binding after using the 243? |
No, not yet. Will be using it later today when I mount some bindings using the Quiver Killer inserts, but don't plan on removing the bindings until later this season.
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You know it makes sense.
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Use bearing lock. 
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Loctite purple 222 would be better if undoing is required,
to undo stuff with blue warm the screw up
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Poster: A snowHead
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| carroz wrote: |
Loctite purple 222 would be better if undoing is required,
to undo stuff with blue warm the screw up |
Disagree. No problem using blue loctite without heat if used sparingly. Used if for years for scope/dot sight mount screws on fullbore rifles/pistols without a problem.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| rob@rar wrote: |
| I got a little bottle of Blue 243 from this guy on ebay. |
I'll second that. Same place I got my loctite. So far have changed the bindings over to my other set of skis and then back again, all is well and would rather the blue stuff than anything with less hold. With a pozi #2 and the relevant M5 screws the blue loctite poses no issues to loosen and swap the bindings.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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red locktite on the other hand ...is a little harder to remove 
we use 222 for boot clips/ankle screws etc, never had a problem with it (unless the pesky racer decides to loosen the screw to adjust something which was set up and didn't need adjusting and then looses the bolt)
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Sorry spyderjon I should have said if it will not move then use heat, don't force.......still think blue is overkill however
On the circuit race cars i build, If the item to subject to vibration I use this general rule, use red if it is to stay tight, use blue if very rarely undo, (if really bad vibration use red and then heat to undo) use purple on items that need to be undone reasonably often, but are subject to vibration, copperslip on nearly everything else!
For example blue loctite is used on lobro driveshaft bolts, but if you don't gently heat them on diff changing you often shear or twist the t40 bit, even using the snap on tools we use. You don't "usually" have to warm blue locked stuff, but if it will not come undone, warm it with something to avoid busting the head.
I would use purple as it negates the risk of wrecking the head and then you can't get it out, and i use it in conditions worse then a ski is subject and it works fine.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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222 (Pink) for general fastening - 243 (Blue) if vibration is an issue.
To remove - localised heat will work on both 222 / 243 - (or any type of loctite 648 etc)
Use a very small amount - if possible torque the bolts up to the manufactures spec torque (Nm). This is so if a bolt check is required at a later stage you will not 'break' the loctite by 'over turning' the fixing as this will remove the fastening properties.
Personally recommend 243 - use this spec of loctite on GS & SG skis and haven’t had any issues yet - also use torque seal on the bolt head as a visual indicator so when skis come back to workshop i can check to see if the loctite has been compromised.
*Also hasn’t been mentioned on this thread but make sure you degrease the fixing before applying loctite - Brake cleaner (Halfords) is a good degreasing agent, this is very important for a good solid application and a little wire brush on the thread of the bolt before brake cleaning would also be recommended*
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Edge2Win, or spyderjon any suggestions on a cheap torque driver to ensure bolts dont get over tightened? and what is the torque setting again?
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Lots of snowboard bolts come with what looks like blue loctite on the threads and if there's ever a difficulty unscrewing its usually due to rust in the insert rather than the loctite.
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skimottaret, 4.5Nm. Do you want some inserts? I'm currently sold out but have another order on route.
No such thing as a cheap torque driver I'm afraid. Without a torque driver you'll get mighty close by using a loosely held driver until the screw stops & then with a firm grip give it another eighth of a turn.
My recommendation is to put a blob of 243 on the end few mm of the bolts then give the bolt a shake to remove the excess & leave a small film in the threads.
The trick is to take a driver away with you & regularly check the bolts - you'll soon suss out what tension is req'd etc.
All inserts bought through me have already been degreased.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| fatbob wrote: |
| Lots of snowboard bolts come with what looks like blue loctite on the threads and if there's ever a difficulty unscrewing its usually due to rust in the insert rather than the loctite. |
snap for disc brake rotor bolts on MTBs. I have a tube of 243 for when I need it.
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| skimottaret wrote: |
| Edge2Win, or spyderjon any suggestions on a cheap torque driver to ensure bolts dont get over tightened? and what is the torque setting again? |
Yeh 4.5Nm std torque.
Cheap torque driver...hmm this is the one i use (1/4 drive) - have put a link in below >
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=8729&PartNo=tqsr4fua&group_id=2918&supersede=&store=uk&tool=all
Have this going onto 1/4 drive 6" extension (for rear binding clearance) onto 8mm socket (which has outer dia machined down for some fnt binding hole clearances) to hold crosshead bits to suit.
You could have a try on some auction websites but just make sure you ask when they were last calibrated before buying.
Sort of agree with SJ that you will over time get a feel for the torque setting/tightness, but personally if its racers skis i like to make sure its an exact measurement as a reference point - but again thats only through personal choice.
Also quickly just editing this post > alot of guys talking about using heat for removal - yes this is a good way to de-bond the loctite and its definitely the way to go but we have to be careful about the materials around the bolt which may also be taking heat on and may be compromised in the process.
A little tool that works well for me and is quite effective is a small steel tube which has a slightly larger OD (outer diameter) than the head of the bolt. Attach this onto the head of the bolt - small heat gun with a small nozzle adaptor in the other end and this then pin points localised heat straight onto the bolt > (i hold the steel tube with some long nose pliers). This in effect limits heat damage to surrounding materials around the bindings again in my experience as long as you have only placed a small amount of loctite onto the threads you shouldnt have any issues with removal - but this is a cool tool to have in your workshop for the stubborn ones.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| Quote: |
you'll get mighty close by using a loosely held driver until the screw stops & then with a firm grip give it another eighth of a turn.
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good tip, i will try to remember that one... i dont need any inserts at the mo. i had a bit of a clear out, sold two sets and bought two but all with plates. am gonna get some more skis at some point but would probably just get you to do the mounting...
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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i can report back on a happy weekend's skiing with inserts and loctite 243
haven't tried to loosen the bolts yet but i am so happy with the skis i was using, i can see them being my everyday ski unless it really is pure hardpack everywhere
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