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Thoughts on Les Houches please

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hi

Thanks for all your advice, we are now looking at flights to Geneva, and then a resort like Les Houches, or something similar.

However, I just read some posts on Chamonix and how it is very difficult to get around without your own transport - would that also apply in smaller resorts such as Les Houches? We are beginners (although we have skied before), and so won't be covering lots of terrain, and therefore we are looking for a smaller and more reasonable resort than Chamonix.

Also, could anyone recommend a transfer company. I have seen that a few do it for 25 euros a trip - are they generally reliable? We are only going for a few days so can't waste any time waiting around for the bus to come!

Thanks again
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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If you are beginners etc then Les Houches will be all you need for a week and you will enjoy it, plus will not be as crazy as Chamonix, though will depend on what time of the season you are going.........

That said I spent one week there with my family over New Year and even then was not that busy. Good friends of mine have an appartment there so they like it!
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Hi Munchimo.

Les Houches basically means extra travel to and from the main pistes in Chamonix. The buses run regularly through the valley so you won't have many issues getting around, but you are out of the main ski area and all the delights Chamonix has to offer!

If you are beginners I'm not sure Chamonix is the place for you though. Generally it's incredibly steep. I would recommend Les Gets as a cheap(ish) resort with plenty of slopes to help you progress. It's on the way to Chamonix so you still fly to Geneva... I did a lot of skiing there as a beginner and loved it!

Transfers at €25 a trip is good value. I've generally booked the cheapest I can find and have never had issues (fatal last words!)
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munchimo, what Weathercam, said. Chamexpress our very own Smile transfer co does hourly trips, and will most likely be happy to drop you off in Les Houches. Le Tour at the far end of the valley is very suitable for beninners for an away day. One word of caution, Les Houches is the first resort in the valley to lose its snow so don't go there if you are going late in the season.
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Yes, we definitely need to avoid the steep ones!! We are only there for 3 days, and that combined with our general incompetence means we don't need many runs! Embarassed
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munchimo, I've only been to Les Houches once, for a 3 day trip (early January) and the snow was grim. It was a very bad year, to be fair - we drove over to Flaine and it was pretty rubbish there too, though obviously far better than Les Houches. There was no snow at the bottom in LH and very little at the top, so I never got to see much of the ski area.

However, you can be lucky or unlucky with snow anywhere. My point on Les Houches is that unless you had accommodation v close to the lift you would struggle without a car (we had a car) - it spreads quite a long way along.

Yes, the skiing at LH would be fine for you, if the snow was OK, but I can think of better places if convenience is a key consideration. Flaine, for example - close to Geneva. Not any of the outlying places - but the Flaine bowl itself. It's at 1600m. Accommodation available right on the slopes. I

Yes, Le Tour would be fine too - but it's right the other end of the Chamonix valley. Not sure why you'd bother to schlep up there when you only have a few days, when many resorts have all the skiing you'll need in one convenient and tidy package. We did so, and the snow at Le Tour was far better, but although we had a car it took us forever to get up the hill - a long and disorganised queue to buy a lift pass followed by a long and disorganised queue to get up the damn lift. This was ultra low season, too. I've never encountered such queues anywhere else, even the 3 Valleys at New Year.

Will you be wanting lessons? A couple of hours would probably help you to make more of any area, and would also be a good way of seeing something of a new resort - if you tell an instructor what you've done, and ask him/her to show you some of the runs which will suit you.

Les Gets - suggested above - is another good bet, but a tad longer transfer. Transfers are a pain when you just have a few days. With two of you it might be worth hiring a car.
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Hiya...

Les Houches is very underrated, and is absolutely perfect for a beginners ski holiday. All the runs are mainly north facing and hold the snow really well. There are also snow cannons covering most of the slopes. Les Houches is the only resort in the Chamonix Valley where you can ski back to the village/your accommodation. The runs to the village are Blue slopes.

Les Houches is also on the World Cup Downhill Circuit (ala ski sunday on TV). The Chamonix leg of the Mens downhill and giant slalom are here at the end of January 2011. So if you're out here then, you have a treat in store!

I am biased, I am fortunate to have my chalet and office right by the Finish Line! Very Happy

As for transfers, being in Les Houches ourselves, we're well placed to provide our www.chamexpress.com 25 Euros, door-2-door, airport transfers from Geneva with 30 transfers every day. That's one every 45 minutes.

As for eating on the mountain, Les Houches has the cheapest restaurants in the whole of the Chamonix Valley and has 10 on the mountain. As many as the rest of the Chamonix Valley put together.

We look forward to hearing from you, and welcoming you to Les Houches!

Cheers.

Andrew
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We are going mid-jan, but I am only booking my flights now, and I will wait to see what the snow does before I get accommodation. I am too nervous to drive, so would have to rely on a bus! I had considered Flaine, but I couldn't find transfers that were as reasonable as those to the Chamonix area.
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Quote:

I couldn't find transfers that were as reasonable as those to the Chamonix area.

No, and that's a significant consideration, especially for a short trip. Just be careful where you choose to stay, if you go to Les Houches. I think even the greatest enthusiast for the place would agree that there is plenty of accommodation to which beginners skiers, in particular, could definitely NOT ski back. I definitely hit it at a very bad time for snow - no doubt it's usually far better and if it's cold and windy, it would be a great place to be. Maybe Chamexpress could advise on accommodation suitable for a short stay?
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For accommodation try: MGM Haute des Chavants. They're apartments just above the gondola on the blue slope. I think Pierre & Vacances are managing them this season. Depending on budget try. The Hotel Slalom. Both the above are ski back to.

Apartments: Grand Tetras, The Grand Balcon 100-150m walk to gondola.

MGM Le Kandahaar apartments. Opposite Bellevue cable car.

Try: www.huski.com they offer short breaks (Gaby & Tim)

Try: http://www.frenchalpineretreat.com/ (Rob & Sue) 50m from piste.

Try: Hammeau Pierre Blanche Apartments. (Nice) 250m from gondola.


Hope this helps for starters!

Cheers.

Andrew
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Chamexpress, are Gaby and Tim the ones who do telemark instruction? I think it was them we stayed with - it was a long time ago 2000 or 2001. Very good food.
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munchimo,There are much better options local to GVA than Les Houches. The Chamonix area is not ideal for beginners, although it is a stunning place for the mountain scenary - better to save it for later in your ski career.

Maybe look at one of these areas:

Portes de Soleil

Grand Massif

Megeve
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Les Houches is lovely! lots (in so far as 50km will give you 'lots') of easy skiing, trees, great little foody places tucked away - and the entertainment of watching the Brit ski kids from British ski academy (and actually quite frequently the chamonix ski kids) haring around. Nice if not in anyway particularly exceptional village but a big plus of a decent supermarket. Fancy a change and you can catch the tramway (a bit convoluted, but doable) over to st gervais which is also sound novice territory.......and yes, noticeably cheaper than any of its near neighbours.
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Thanks, everyone is so helpful - Chamexpress you have set my mind at rest regarding transfers! I am looking for accommodation close to the skiing area as I won't have a car - but I don't need ski-in/out. In fact, considering the way I ski it might be a disadvantage! Embarassed
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munchimo, St Gervais may be a good option - only about 50 mins from GVA, and an easy transfer. Good skiing for most levels of skier. The town is lovely, and there are some apartments right next to the gondola station, although nowhere is very far. There is a bus too. Don't think you say when you are going Puzzled and you may not be able to take an apartment for just a few days. Google St Gervais accommodation and see what turns up Very Happy
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
You should have a great time mid-Jan, quiet time with good snow. It's a really nice place to learn and quite different to the rest of the Chamonix areas - much less steep and as a result attracts a different crowd. Les Vieilles Luges is a really nice restaurant on the mountain. St Gervais is lovely too and well worth considering.

It is quite spread out so just check distance from the lift before you book accomodation. You won't have any problems on those dates.

Couple of pics from Mid-Jan in LH
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaletlaforet/2199033015/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaletlaforet/2209762865/
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Great pics! Very Happy
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Chamexpress, firebug, always takes great pics!

munchimo, there are a number of advantages to LHs over alternatives posted.

1. short transfer. ((N.B. Les Gets is not on the way to Chamonix unless you get lost.)) In normal weather and traffic max 1 hour door to door from airport (transfer schedules clearly could make a difference.

2. the ski school teaches on the plateau (generally) at the top of the mountain - whihc means the best snow. East access ideally from Prarion bubble or Belvedere cable car.

3. It has the best mountain restaurants in the valley for every reason.

And it's a nice little village.

Go for it.


danno_c1, "it's incredibly steep" ?? I suspect that says more about your skiing than the slopes around Chamonix...[/u][/b]
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Quote:

I suspect that says more about your skiing than the slopes around Chamonix...

Agreed. I've only done Le Tour, Les Houches and Brevent/Flegere but there's plenty of non-steep to choose from in all of them.
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under a new name, just saying that Chamonix is one of the steeper resorts in the area. I took beginners there and it was a shame I couldn't enjoy the terrific views on the slopes above Argentiere and Les Praz with them because they wouldn't ski slopes that steep - they spent most of their week in Le Tour.

It's just advice from experience of having taken beginners there - otherwise terrific place to ski, I absolutely loved it.
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Les Houches as many SH have put it can be good if there is sufficient snow and bad if there is a shortage.

It is on the main road to Chamonix tunnel and so I usually ski there when I see the snow is complete to the bottom. It does have a fantastic view of the Chamonix Valley wider than one can see in Le Tour. The run to the bottom is a red on black and has a few steep sections. Other areas are more tame and nice for the beginners.

Grand Massif (Flaine, Le Coroz, Samoen, Morillon) and the French side of the PDS (Les Gets/Morzine/Avoriaz) have better snow as they are deeper into the mountains and spread over a wider area. The advantage of Les Houches is that it is close enough to ski Chamonix Valley (as it in part of it if going uphill). Going downhill the Domaine Evasio (St Gervais/Megeve) is equally near. A resort of similar standing but has better snow is Les Contamines which is near St Gervais.

Comparing with Les Houches with Grand Massif , Domaine Evasion and PDS then its infrastructure is a couple of leagues lower as LH has a fair share of drag lifts.
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Amazing pics - I can't wait! Although just to clarify, I would call that steep! We are looking for very gentle slopes, but we don't need lots of them.

Looking to go around 16th Jan, would there be any snow advantage to go a week later? Only then I am getting a bit close to the Kandahar dates - and I don't want to stray onto that by mistake!

I know lack of snow is a risk, so I will wait till nearer the time to book hotels etc.
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Chamexpress, under a new name, thanks! Very Happy

munchimo, that's under the lift, it's not a piste - most of Les Houches is very relaxed. There is a nice long blue to the bottom of both cable cars, you don't have to go on a red or black to get to the lift.
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Guess what? if you don't know already. If we win the 2018 winter olympic bid then:

Les Houches get a brand new high-speed telecabine, from Le Trabbets, just below our chalet whooo hoooo Happy
A 600 car underground carpark
Loads of new pistes
A new railway station right next to the lift

And I think I might move out and rent my chalet to a ski team Very Happy

Fingers crossed for the decision next July!
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munchimo, check out hotel slalom in les houches, had a long w/e there couple of years back, one of our group was a first timer and she had a great time there. Only tip is book a taxi home if venture into chamonix on a night out.
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We took the kids to Les Houches, so I suppose you'd call them beginners and with a bit of planning to the routes (as there are two different main gondolas to finish at - check which pass you buy) it was fine.

Yep there are other resorts better for beginners but this is one of the best in the valley for beginners.
wink
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munchimo, one week here or there is impossible to forecast.

Saikee's info is somewhat out of date, almost all of the drag lifts have been replaced or paralleled by chairs.

For three days you'll be absolutely fine. Give yourselves a challenge to get down to the Terrain restaurant. There is a blue run through the trees to it. Simple mountain food with charm and allegedly the best tartiflette in the alps. I prefer the "menu skieur" myself...
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We LOVE les Houches, been there twice and have booked another week in April.
If you are arriving without a car, it would be avery good idea to book somewhere close to Kandahar Téléphérique or Prarion Télécabine, or at least somewhere next to a ski bus stop. There is only ESF ski school and it meets at the bottom of Prarion in the mornings and you ski up on the plateau at the top of the mountain in the main, but if you know the pistes well enough and know where the ski school is heading that morning, you can go up Kandahar and meet up the top. We are a French speaking family but out of the teaches our children had last year, I heard all but one speaking English too.

We are staying again in PV / MGM 's Les Hauts de Chavants apartments which are arguably the best situated self-catering accommodation just above Prarion, the ski school, hire shops, the child-care. The apartments are well equiped and a bit above basic, also a swimming pool, some apartments are a metre or 2 from the piste. For a bit more luxury, there are the Hameau de Pierre Blanche apartments a short walk away. You can book both these apartments directly or for a few quid more, with www.peakretreats.co.uk and we actually booked with Peak Retreats last year as we got a cheaper price on special offer.

Les Houches is simpy great. The only downside is if you really want to venture further, it's a bus ride to the pistes of Chamonix, Argentiere or Vallorcine. But les Houches has its own lift passes, or is included on the St Gervais pass ? Pays du Mont Blanc or the Mont Blanc Unlimited MBU which covers the whole Chamonix valley plus Verbier and Courmayeur. We will stick again to les Houches area this year, despite now having 2 competition level skiers in our family.

Thanks for the tip on the Terrain restaurant and that luges one too. This year we might spoil ourselves a little.
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PS be careful of those British Ski Academy kids in les Houches, nothing wrong with the kids but one of their instructors is a complete nutcase as far as I could see. One ESF instructor said there is quite a bit of animosity between this ski academy and the ESF ski school as I witnessed myself several times complete disregard for other skiers from this group.
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Other good eats - the Taniere which us a bit tricky to find but well worth it and the Marmottes which is in the village opposite the Prarion bubble.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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Let's be frank with Les Houches and don't get carried away.

There are many reasons why a skier goes there; being green, early intermediate, affordable accommodation, lower cost of ski pass, classic mountain layout, mistaken it as the Chamonix resort or part of it, after reading this thread.....etc

The fact Les Housches sells its own ski pass and not automatically being part of the Chamonix is a sign telling us something.

My information may be out of date by 5 to 6 years but the last time I skied there were

2 aging gondolas
4 chairlifts
9 drag lifts.

My point is it is not a place that can set an average skiing visitor to France on fire. One needs to go Flaine or Les Gets/Morzine or Megeve/St Gervais to sample the "average" size French resort which usually prides itself having less number of drag lifts than the Swiss, the Italian and the Austrian. From my own observation any resort that has more drag lifts than the number of chairlifts is likely to be a minor resort. France has many world-beating skiing resorts famous of their sizes and the well connection of chairlifts.

Yes one can enjoy perfect skiing when the snow is right in the 55km piste Les Houches but the same snow can also do magic to the neighbouring Flaine (265km piste), Megeve (300km piste), Chamonix (152km piste) and Porte Du Soleil (650km piste comprising both French and Swiss sides).

For a beginner I agree a small resort is equally as good as a large resort because a green skier is unlikely to be able to benefited from more choices. A beginner would be better off concentrating on skiing the same slope until the confidence picks up. Once becoming an intermediate a large resort has more chance of offering a next run fitting better with the one's progress.
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1 téléphérique (Bellevue)
1 télécabine (Prarion) constructed 2006
7 télésieges, 2 most recent constructed 2009
5 téléskis
1 télecorde 2009
1 tapis magique 2009
2 snowparks

For a beginner, there really isn't a need for 650km of pistes as they will only be able to cover a small percentage of that area.

Les Houches is where all ESF teachers do their exams.

Les Houches is where the "Chamonix" leg of the "coupe du monde" is held.

Les Houches is just a nice self-contained ski area in the northern Alps where is car is not necessary if you stay in the right place. There is not much ski-in-out accommodation in the Chamonix valley, Les Houches has a reasonable choice. It's got the cheapest ski school lessons, a decent supermarket, decent eateries. It's not trying to be Val d'Isere or even Chamonix, it's simply a nice village which is near to Chamonix.
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It sounds perfect for us - we are looking for something smaller and reasonably priced. As we are not very good, we only go up and down the same slopes anyway, which is why it seems silly for us to pay for passes covering hundreds of km of runs!
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Size isn't everything NehNeh

I don't have any personal drum to bang for it, I only go there when everywhere else is shut! I don't think anyone's suggesting it's the perfect place for all skiers. But I think it's quite hard to beat for an easy access short break for beginners. It's got charm, short transfer time, affordable slopeside accommodation and and nice terrain for beginners and improvers - none of those places mentioned above have all those things.

We've always have fun there and always a nice lunch too Smile
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munchimo, I would recomend Cham Express used then to get to Les Houches in April.
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Thanks Linds! Very Happy
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Quote:

The fact Les Housches sells its own ski pass and not automatically being part of the Chamonix is a sign telling us something.


Not quite.

If you pay the modest premium for the MBU pass, LHs is on it.
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munchimo, I know I've said this before, but you'll have a lot more fun if you have some lessons and don't have to keep doing the same slope all the time!
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The ESF ski school in Les Houches is brilliant. Yannick runs a tight ship, and at great rates.

Book 3 x 2hr private lessons for in the region of 88 euros per 2hr session. And that price is the total for 1 OR 2 people.

You'll learn a lot quicker than in a regular group lesson!

Cheers.

Andrew
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Planning a short 2 day trip with my 12 year old son (1 week on snow 2008) and had thought of Combloux.
Might Les Houches be a better bet? Staying down the valley as it's the start of the French Holidays.
Thanks
CW
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