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first visit to the Three Valleys

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
We are being let loose (without any dependants) for the first time since we started skiing Very Happy Thinking of the Three Valleys area as it was always too expensive to go to when we had the kids with us and so have never been. Would love some suggestions as to best place to stay as we don't have a clue about that area. Don't need wild nightlife just a few restaurants and shops. Other half would like ski in ski out but not absolutely necessary as I prefer a wee bit of character where we stay however having said that don't like long walks to ski lifts!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Sounds like you'd like Brides les Bains - but I'm not sure it would please your wife!

It's at the foot of the valley with a 22 minute bubble ride up to the heart of the system in Meribel. We like it 'cos it offers:
* real French atmosphere
* low altitude means a good nights sleep
* quiet location
* easy to get to
* relatively cheap

I'm sure others will be along in a while to say why they hate that 22 minute ride.


Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Thu 27-05-10 9:34; edited 1 time in total
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ruthie, Brides Les Bains is a thought - though be aware of the lift time into the main system. Personally, I'd go for Mirabel (perhaps Mottaret). It's in the heart of the 3V - so good skiing access to Courchevel and Val Thorens (though be aware of the consequences if the links close).
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ruthie, have a look at St Martin de Belleville. Located at 1400m in the same valley as Les Menuires and Val Thorens. Nice cruisy pistes and quick and easy links over to Meribel, Les Menuires from where you can connect with the rest of the 3V's. It's the main village in the valley so has more character than the purpose built resorts above, has nice restaurants, ski in/ski out accommodation and is relatively cheap for the 3V's.
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ruthie, I'm a big fan of the Courchevel area for skiing, loads in that area in it's own right, seems to hold the snow well and in better condition compared to Meribel, downside is it's further away for a trip to Val Thorens (but still very doable).

If you want to stay near shops then Courchevel 1650 or 1850 (where the shops are) is the answer, if you want a bit of character then La Tania (has 4(?) ski shops + 1 supermarket) or Le Praz would be worth looking into.

Are you looking for self catering or hotels?

Good link for La Tania information is here - http://www.latania.co.uk/
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I'd second the La Tania option. Quite a lot of Chalets there too, if you like that type of mixing.
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ruthie, I'd go with BobinCHs suggestion of St Martin. Very nice atmosphere and the links to the wider area are pretty straightforward. Courchevel 1650 would probably be my other favoured option.
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+1 for St Martin - nice village, though not perhaps as snowsure as spots higher up. Got from my memory a modicum of ski in and out.

We've stayed at Mottaret in P&V apts, largely for the ski-in out convenience. Got hire shops and superette and few bars and restos right by doorstep. Not a party party place as I recall, but ok to grab a beer after an afternoon on the slopes. Also is highest access point in middle valley so you can hop over very easily to Courchevel and Val T etc. Not perhaps got the charm of St Martin, but there are also chalets and plenty other apts around. The architecture is all chalet style so not quite as brutal as Val T.
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Quote:

I'm sure others will be along in a while to say why they hate that 22 minute ride


Sounds like more of an opportunity than a downside to me wink
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go to Mottaret - Gods country Toofy Grin
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St Martin or Mottaret are your boys. St Martin for the charm (but only one way in or out to the skiing), or Mottaret for the quickest access to the most skiing (not particularly charming not a hole either). The 22 minute bubble ride (half hour realistically) from BlB will seem interminable on the first day, downright annoying on the second rising exponentially to a murderous ball-ache day by day, but then I'm the sort who prefers to walk out of the accommodation and clip in.

On balance I'd say Mottaret if it's your first trip to 3V, the extremities of the area on both sides are only 2, maximum 3 lifts away, and you can dawdle on your way home to have long empty runs from either side.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Im not that convinced by St Martin as charming and there can be a fair walk to the lifts if you want ski in.
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ruthie, I'm not sure that anywhere in the 3V has character Confused but it is a must to ski if you've not been before. I'm sure that you'll love it. Very Happy

If you are going at either end of the season then Val T might be the best bet for guaranteed skiing, if you are going at a more usual time, I'd probably go to one of the other areas.

In reference to the recommendation by Altis, I've been to Brides Les Bains twice and hated it. The place is not quiet, it is dead, few restaurants even fewer shops and it takes an absolute age to get from accommodation to the first ski down. Sad
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 brian
brian
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Another vote for La Tania. Mostly ski in/out, better situated than it looks on the piste map, reasonably pleasant for purpose built. I agree with kitenski, I've been several trips to 3Vs and found myself mostly skiing in Courchevel.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
ruthie, here's a review of St Martin http://www.welove2ski.com/jsp/index.jsp?lnk=101&id=218&desc=St%20Martin-de-Belleville,%20France

Agree with some of the other posters that if you are going early or late season go for Mottaret which is higher so more snowsure and more central.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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kitenski, Not sure about accommodation yet. We usually go self catering but as there is just the two us we might hang on and wait and see what late deals there are in chalets.

BobinCH, We have booked our flight with Easyjet from Belfast to Geneva as soon as they came out and are going mid January so maybe higher up would be better?
Would La Tania be high enough?

altis, Thanks for information but I don't think Brides Les Bains is for us.

Other problem is we always flew to Chambery but no airlines going to there from Belfast anymore. We also usually hired cars but with only of us maybe another mode of transport would be cheaper?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
ruthie wrote:
Would La Tania be high enough?


In mid-Jan, I'd have tought so. But even if there's little snow there is a good snowmaking system, or you can dowload in the gondola without missing out on too much.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Ray Zorro wrote:
ruthie, I'm not sure that anywhere in the 3V has character Confused (
St Martin be B is a picture-postcard small traditional (originally 14th century) village with some great restaurants (one with Michelin star) and Baroque church (and even better Baroque chapel just up the valley). Lovely place in the summer.
For position to access all the skiing Meribel Mottaret is better, though, as several people have said. Or you can get to it very easily from Val Thorens which perhaps has the best skiing of the three Valleys.
I've been up that bubble from Brides les Bains and it seemed much longer than 20 minutes - I really think it would get very irksome twice per day.


Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Fri 28-05-10 11:37; edited 1 time in total
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ruthie, we really enjoyed La Tania. Lots of ski in/out or very close, compact 'village' centre (it's a man-made place, but not ugly), with the few shops, bars, restaurants you are after, and the skiing on the local pass is extensive, including Courchevel. As for height, we were there 3rd week of January, and the snow was excellent. It has a very good snow record IIRC, so your planned dates should be fine
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ruthie,

La Tania is at 1350m, St Martin is at 1400m. They are both low for the 3V's but would "usually" be ok by mid Jan and they do both have snow making. IMHO La Tania does not have character. It is a small purpose built place, has a pretty lively British run pub, has decent relatively cheap accomodation and has good access to Courchevel. It is popular with Brits. I've never stayed there but used to take guests there every week on our 3V day from VT to catch the bus home. The couple of times I ate there I was disappointed and I never really liked the feel of the place but many do as you read above. One thing in its favour is that the run down to La Tania is tree lined which is a bonus in bad weather.

On the other hand St Martin de Belleville certainly does have character. I go down to eat lunch there whenever I'm in the 3V's and have never been disappointed. And La Bouite http://www.la-bouitte.com/en.php along the road in St Marcel is probably the best restaurant in the 3V's. snowball's description above is accurate.

You will find ski in/ski out accommodation at both of them.

Access wise there's nothing in it as you can see from the pistemap http://www.latania.co.uk/skiing/maps/3VBIG.jpg 2 lifts from La Tania give access to Courchevel 1850 and Meribel. 2 lifts up from St Martin give access to Meribel or Mottaret and Les Menuires.

Now, if character is less important and you want the best ski access Mottaret, at 1800m and right in the middle of the 3V's, is probably best. It is a quiet purpose built place mainly consisting of apartment blocks and hence lacks character but has great access. Personally I stay in Val Thorens because it has the best off piste and most varied skiing IMO, but if you like piste cruising Courchevel is great and Mottaret gives easy access to both Courchevel and VT and has direct to the excellent Mont Vallon!

I think there are weekend transfers to Val Thorens but they won't be cheap and will take above 4 hours. Saying that hiring a car from Geneva airport is also not cheap. The transfer time is approx 3 1/2 hours by car and longer by coach.

3V's is great but other options with easier transfers from Geneva that you may want to consider are Portes du Soleil, transfer time approx 1hr and a left field choice if you want somewhere that really has character is Zermatt accessible by a 3 hr train journey from Geneva.

Enjoy choosing!


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Thu 27-05-10 22:43; edited 1 time in total
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Transfer from Geneva to Val T is only 2hours 30 now that the motorway goes all the way.
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ruthie,

Great choice!

The 3 Valleys is hard to beat - a world class ski area that every skier should try at least once Very Happy

And I'm sure that, once tried, many skiers go back for more Very Happy Very Happy
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jimmjimm wrote:
Transfer from Geneva to Val T is only 2hours 30 now that the motorway goes all the way.


Yep sorry I'm counting from my place. Need to take an hour off from Geneva... doh!
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I really liked Le Praz as a place to stay BUT it's either a gondola download or a choice of 3 Reds and 2 Blacks. All seemed fairly graded when I was there last March, and I guess if one could have been deemed Blue it would have been. Has more character than the rest of Courchevel IMO. Also liked St Martin de Belleville, tempted by Val Thorens, but wouldn't stay in Les Menuires unless it was really cheap. Wasn't exactly keen on the Meribel valley, probably because the snow seemed to suffer and there were more flat runs in the way than the other 2 resorts.
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BobinCH, great summary .. i have never been to la bouitte, is it an easy ski in?
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Take the overnight train and then the bus from Moutier - that way you ski the first and last Saturday on top of what the flyers ski. Personally I use Eurostar and then transfer stations to take the regular French trains, rather than using the British chartered ski train. Note that there are a couple of hundred tickets about half price if you get them when they first become available (Eurostar 120 days ahead and French railways 90 days - if I've got that the right way round and it hasn't changed). You do need to get them very early because they go quickly.
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I would second Mottaret, I am biased though having lived there for two years in my formative years.
Ahh the nights spent pulling pints in Le Plein Soleil!
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skimottaret, usually they pick you up by car from St Martin. In good snow you can ski there (off piste).
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We enjoyed 3V so much at new year we went back in Feb...been 4 times over all, still not done most of it! Val Thorens for ease of access to the slopes and facilities, and some good options for food at night and on the slopes (Le deux Lac restaurant's assiete de skieur is great.) It is a ski resort as opposed to a village, and St Martin is definately the place to be if you want your village easy on the eye...but you pay for that as access is more of an issue. Can't comment on night life, usually collapsed asleep on the sofa before 9 or 10!

I don't know other peoples experiences, but I found that even at peak time in Feb half term, if you go high as you can it stays quiet too...several times in Feb half term, had le Col and Portette more or less to myself...

Have a great holiday,

CFP
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snowball, thank but have already booked flights to Geneva - not convenient for us to take train as we live in Belfast!

Colonel Faceplant, Convenience seems to be winning over character at the moment. So it seems to be between Mottaret or Val Thorens at the moment. The only thing concerns me is bad weather in VT as it is so exposed. May keep options open and research some self catering apartment but might hold out for chalet deal!
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ruthie, when the weather comes in at Val T you know about it, and then some. I find Val T to be characterless in the extreme, Mottaret wins on being by far the best location in the 3V, has one or two decent bars and restaurants, and if you can get a chalet or hotel in Le Laitelet section it almost passes for attractive and perfect ski in/out convenience.

One lift and you're the first down crux (quicker to get up there from Mottaret than from 1850), back up on Marmottes and down Comb Saulire. If there's a better start to your day than those two beauties I've yet to hear of it.
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If the weather gets windy In Vt you can ski down to les Menures. You can also find that while Vt is basking in the sunshine, the other valleys are in fog.
Don't forget, the Belleville valley is bigger than all the Courchavels , la tania, and all the Meribels combined.
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Agreed about the weather, although we have been lucky on our 4 visits and only lost out 2 days ski in total. Went and played on the trampolines with my son instead! As for character or lack of it, Im not the best to comment as we have family and friends there most of the season, which changes the experience from visiting the place 'cold'(no pun intended). Mottaret certainly sound interesting from Dr John's experience, I will be checking it out before booking next winter, but frankly the 3V is so well interconnected, Im sure you'll have a great ski whatever you choose.
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Colonel Faceplant, i have a lot of info on my site below regarding mottaret....
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and a very good site is is too skimottaret, snowHead We followed a couple of the routes in it and had some great trips. Also had a fab day at La Masse - empty pistes, bluebird, great views. Loved it.

ruthie, Mottaret has tree skiing to a point, and we did spend a couple of days in our March trip just pootling up and down one of the blue runs under the Plattiere's 2 lift in rubbish light but in lovely fresh powder, all to ourselves pretty much. It is a great place for intermediates as you can push yourself as much or as little as you like. TBH we never even bothered skiing down to Meribel centre this time, as conditions were not great and there was just so much more to offer higher up. As another plug for P&V apt we feel they are pretty good value for us a a couple self catering, warm, and clean, with adequate ski storage and right on the pistes. We hired a car at Geneva and it is only about 2+ hours there. There are plenty supermarkets down in Moutiers, e.g. there is a Super U at les Salins [something like that] en route, and you can park the car for free outdoors at the top of the resort near where there are some chalets and apts.

I cannot comment on VT accom, and when we stayed in St Martin we splashed out and stayed in the posh hotel which was wonderful, but not in the least cheap. The skiing in VT is ace though. snowHead
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Dr John wrote:
ruthie, when the weather comes in at Val T you know about it, and then some. I find Val T to be characterless in the extreme, Mottaret wins on being by far the best location in the 3V, has one or two decent bars and restaurants, and if you can get a chalet or hotel in Le Laitelet section it almost passes for attractive and perfect ski in/out convenience.

One lift and you're the first down crux (quicker to get up there from Mottaret than from 1850), back up on Marmottes and down Comb Saulire. If there's a better start to your day than those two beauties I've yet to hear of it.


It is only the best location if you want to access all corners of the 3V's. It is not the best location for the best snow or best lift system in the 3V's which is in Val Thorens. Mottaret is at 1750m. Val Thorens is at 2300. That makes a difference to the quality of snow.

From Val Thorens you have myriad good options to start the day. Straight up Funitel Peclet and down Tete Ronde or Christine, up Moutier and Grand Fond into the sunshine of the 4th valley or up Bouquetin and down Lac de la Chambre to Mt Vallon. You are there just as quickly as from Mottaret.

If you make the case that you can stay in a decent set of apartments in Mottaret equals character, you can equally stay at the Oxalys appartments or Balcons area in Val Thorens which are very nice as people who've done the EOSB will know.

Also, if the weather is bad it is bad everywhere. You may be better of in the trees of La Tania, Le Praz, Meribel but it will still be bad weather. I would not choose my location based on the risk of bad weather.
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Have done boys weeks in Meribel for two years and it works pretty well, can explore all three (or four) valleys and only have to cross one valley to get home. However the key to Meribel is finding accommodation that is close to a piste or Chaudanne. Although Motteret is well placed Meribel is only one lift and one piste away. However we might do 1650 next year as we tend to find ourselves in this valley most of the time.
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It was a awesome and amazing place. I like all its natural beauty and attracted towards it. It is one of the fascinating places of the world. So definatley visit and enjoy there.
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Definitely recommend the 3 Valleys. We had a great week in Courchevel 1650 with Silver Ski at Le Biol this year. Check Silver Ski out - non-scary prices for Courchevel.
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BobinCH, all good points, and each base has many + and -'s. I was basing my comments on the fact that it's the OP's first visit to the 3V and would want the easiest/quickest access to the most amount of skiing. There's not much argument that, given equally bad conditions throughout the 3V, ValT is by far the most exposed and therefore the grimmest place to be. If you're a gnarly of-pister you wouldn't care too much about that, of you not (and I suspect the OP isn't) you might care very much.

I appreciate we're all going out to bat for our favorite area of the 3V, that's what makes it one of the best destinations in the world. I think we can all agree that you'll have a ball wherever you choose, just as long as it isn't Brides les Bains.
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