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TR - Short Scottish Ski "Road Trip" - now added with pics :-)

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
We visited Cairgorm, Glencoe & Nevis as "Scottish Skiing Virgins" on a short break this week. I'll write it up if anyone is interested.


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Sun 11-04-10 21:57; edited 1 time in total
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Yes please.
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Ayyye.
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Just be honest with it.
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Look forward to it.
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Please do Smile
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Yes please, especially if you have pics
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ok - will do, with pic's.

saikee
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Just be honest with it.


Puzzled
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david@mediacopy,

Tell us both the good and bad experience.
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david@mediacopy,

I did Glencoe on Friday afternoon and Cairngorm on Sat. Stopped to have a look at Glenshee yesterday evening but was too late to ski. It was 16 deg in Glenshee at 4pm!
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It was 16 deg in Glenshee at 4pm!

similar temperatures to the Alps, then.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
johnboy, I was looking out for you at Glencoe - were you there on your own ?
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it was 17C when we got back to the car park at Glencoe at 5pm on Saturday Smile
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OK. It was my wife and I who traveled up on afternoon to stay in Fort William. The forecast looked OK and we expected things to clear.

For a bit of context, we both ski pretty well and have done plenty of time in Europe where we've tended to frequent smaller resorts, but have never skied in Scotland. It's fair to say I'm the obsessive while my wife is more 'normal'.

So off we set and 2 hours later we'd managed to travel as many as 30 miles. The M6 was a mare. Eventually the traffic cleared and our spirits were lifted when we spotted snow on the hills in the lakes. Glasgow set us back with a random motorway junction closure and obvious diversion but by 10.00 we were clear of the City and headed North on the A82 in driving rain and a howling gale. Scottish weather IS impressive, and we made it to our hotel around midnight.

Thursday dawned with the cloud base touching the tops of the hills across the loch. We'd decided on Cairngorm, as the weather forecast suggested it would be clearer in the East and I hoped a weekday would be less busy. I under estimated how long it would take to drive over and we ended up on the funicular at midday.

Cairngorm didn't do it for us. It was busy, the uplift was slow and broke down. Counting back I think we managed 4 or 5 runs top to bottom in 4 hours, although this included a couple of 'tea' stops. I went up for a final run but the Train was stopped, then I found the main drag was broke. This was the day the M1 pomma was down so this meant that there was no way of getting to the top of the resort. I worked my way up as far as I could on the other drags and had a pleasant run down, finding a few bumps. On the plus side the resort probably had the best snow cover of the 3 resorts we visited, and Aonach Bowl provided some steeper runs. Cairngorm would be the resort I would recommend (given the current conditions) to beginners and had the best terrain to learn to ski on.



^ Cafe and bottom of Cairngorm

It was Friday so it was Glencoe. 45mins or so in the car has us in the carpark and we were quite exited to see a chair lift. Good times. We kitted up and made our way up the chair and then to the Pomma, to the little 1 man chair and finally up the T bar. The snow wasn't bad at all and we had an excellent days skiing. Plenty of rock out-crops to keep you concentrating but the snow cover was good, at least back to the T-bar. Spring Run was probably the pick of the bunch (fly paper was closed) but the Blues to the right of the hill were cool too. I've never skied in New Zealand but I imagine that this could be what it's like. The little cafe on the hill was fairly primitive (they don't sell chips or beer !) but the new restaurant building at the car park is lovely and an extremely pleasant place for an after ski beer and chips !



^ The hill at Glencoe



^ Cafe on the hill at Glencoe



^ Mrs David@mediacopy on the Spring run at Glencoe



^ Me, mincing around at Glencoe

We woke on Saturday to find a reasonably blue sky. Nevis range was only 10 minutes away so we were on the hill reasonably early for a change. A gondola ride to the mid station (?) and then a short walk to find some snow to slide to the chair lift on. Most upper runs were open and the Braveheart chair opened later in the day giving access to Coire Dubh. The conditions were typical Spring, with the snow softening as the day went on. Generally the runs were long and reasonably steep but the big problem, especially for my wife, was exiting back to the cafe and toilets. On our first attempt we walked a good distance down via the 'Rabbit Run' over rough ground and the second attempt we skied the Yockies pomma line \ piste, but that also required some hiking causing my wife to call it a day, early. I went up again and discovered that there was an intact line which you could use to get the the chair access track which made getting back to the cafe much easier. In the end I didn't bother with Braveheart due to the walk out, choosing instead to get more runs in, with the snow on the Goose riding very nicly.



^ Plenty of snow up top at Nevis



^ Ben Nevis with plenty.



^ Looking down towards the cafe at Nevis, from the Goose T-Bar.



^ looking back up towards Goose from the Cafe. 2 skiers recreating our walk out down the 'Rabbet Run' with a 3rd walking towards the chair.




In Summary:
In terms of our enjoyment over this trip I'd rank the resorts: Glencoe, Nevis, with Cairngorm last.

Would I travel up again ? Yes. I think we were a little unlucky with the weather. It had rained hard before we arrived, the temps were on the warm side, but we had some good skiing and it was cheaper than traveling to the Alps. I'd ski Nevis and Glencoe again and with a bit of local knowledge would be able to make the most of them.

For me our trip had got me thinking about the future for Scottish skiing. At the moment the resorts appear focused on serving the 'local' regulars with little regard for 'tourist' skiers from further afield. I was amazed to find our hotel closes for the Winter. Lots of people take short ski breaks and I don't see why Scotland can't offer a UK destination for these.

Cairngorm in particular would appear to have lots of potential but needs significant investment in lift gear (and cafe facilities to help pay for it - there was a burger van in the car park FFS). It seems to me that the campaign to save the Ciste Chair is only the start of what's required BUT given the number of people milling around and it's location, a strong business plan could be made for it.

Nevis Range appears to be in a better situation but needs to think about how to move skiers to and from the lifts when the runs are broken. They also would do well to better communicate the limitations of your lift ticket should you wish to return to your car.

Glencoe was charming and I imagine is in the most difficult situation of all, in that I doubt they would be able to handle large numbers of skiers without big queues, yet obviously they need numbers to cover costs and new investment.
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good report, and fair too. gorm had a fair few issues tow wise last week - a poma tower collapsed from the weight of snow Shocked, but the point is well made, the infrastructure is a little creaky. catering wise there's actually a pretty plush restaurant at the top, dunno if you missed it due to uplift problems

haste ye back Cool
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 Poster: A snowHead
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david@mediacopy, good report, thanks.

I've not heard many people going to Cairngorms and coming away without a complaint.
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Don't think money is a problem if there is sufficient snow to ski on. I had seen the road to Glenshee being closed to the incoming traffic before 10:00am after the car park was completely filled.
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Quote:

I've never skied in New Zealand but I imagine that this could be what it's like.

Shocked
I don't think so unless you go to the club ski areas in Canterbury. Otherwise it is almost all chairlifts and a good number of these are modern high speed etc etc.
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I was at cairngorm the same day - had a pretty decent days skiing. Spent most of the day lapping the WWP either skiing the Aonach bowl or the East Wall Gulleys untill the poma broke. It may have been fixed later, but I finished the afternoon on the Cas - left at 6pm. Forgot to say the WWP was quiet for most of the day - rode straight onto it most of the time. It only really started to get any queues just before it broke at aroun 3pm ish.
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Wow, not much snow lower down in the West now. Are the unusual snow depths finished over there now?
I'm sorry there wasn't enough snow for you to ski out around from the back at Nevis because the back bowl is the best steeper skiing and there is some quite special steep off piste if you walk right from the top pomma (including 1.000ft vertical at 35º - 40º if you want it).
I've been lucky at Glencoe the two times I've visited (many years ago). I was able to ski to the car-park both times (not a regular thing even then).
Surprised you missed the main (250 seat) Ptarmigan Restaurant at the top of Cairngorm.


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Tue 13-04-10 13:19; edited 2 times in total
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Thanks for your comments all. We had some nice skiing and intend to return to ski next year. I tried to write the report as even handedly as possible, and as a business owner I can't help thinking that the bigger resorts could increase their revenues and critically, returning visitor numbers by being a little more 'outward' looking.

As an example, we drove to Aviemore expecting to see signs mentioning a ski resort. Instead the signs only mention the "mountain railway" Obviously it's not rocket science to find the lifts but I reckon it's telling about the mindset of the management. Puzzled

And Nevis. It would cost next to nothing (compared to a few lift tickets) to run a tractor \ trailer shuttle from the snow\chair to the restaurant. The lack of snow is beyond their control, but it's not a new problem and surly not that hard to manage. Better yet it would demonstrate to clients that the resort values their custom.


snowball, I was pretty tempted to drop in but decided against it in the end. I guess the drop off from the right of the pomma would exit past BraveHeart ? Was it around the area in the photo of the cornice ? The off piste you mentions sounds interesting but I could do with hooking up with someone who knows the way. We didn't miss the Restaurant at the top of Cairngorm but the queue was out of the door when we got off the train, and didn't think to go back. A run to the car park at Glencoe would be perfect, especially the line to the skiers left.

Dave Horsley, yep, WWP was the pick of the bunch, I saw people across to the East side but the route back to the pomma didn't look obvious unless you cut back high and early ? We suffered a bit from lacking local knowledge.

Sarge McSarge, Club fields were what I had in mind.

barry,
Quote:
haste ye back
Cheers, I can see it becoming an annual trip. Just a case of getting the timing right.
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david@mediacopy wrote:
Just a case of getting the timing right.
That should be Scottish skiing's slogan
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david@mediacopy,

Quote:

yep, WWP was the pick of the bunch, I saw people across to the East side but the route back to the pomma didn't look obvious unless you cut back high and early ? We suffered a bit from lacking local knowledge.


Yes you had to cut back early (or walk). Have a look at www.savetheciste.com (and sign the petition). If the WW Chair was able to run the usual full length of the Ciste Gulley and East Wall Gulley II would have been skiable. Skiing the Ciste Gulley all the way to the Ciste Car Park is unusual. But has been possible for a fair bit of this season. More normal is to be able to ski to the Ciste Car Park via Coire Laogh Mor and this is still possible with only a liitle heather hopping at the bottom. Then catch the shuttle bus back to the Cas and up to the top either via DLP and WWP or via train depending on queues.

For advice on routes ask the ambassoders (yellow and black jackets), they run tours starting from the Ptarmigan at 11am (or 11.30), but most would give you a tour if you asked them at any time.
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Dave Horsley, ta for that. I've just signed the petition having read through the site. I didn't know about the ambassadors but will remember for next time. Who actually runs\owns the hill ?
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david@mediacopy, The mid-station has always been on or above the snow line when I've been to Nevis. And yes, you do need to know where you are going off piste because there are cliffs.
For the off piste see my TR .
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snowball wrote:
david@mediacopy, For the off piste see my TR .


Excellent report. That sheds a whole new light on the job. Next time...
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david@mediacopy wrote:
Thanks for your comments all. We had some nice skiing and intend to return to ski next year. I tried to write the report as even handedly as possible, and as a business owner I can't help thinking that the bigger resorts could increase their revenues and critically, returning visitor numbers by being a little more 'outward' looking.

As an example, we drove to Aviemore expecting to see signs mentioning a ski resort. Instead the signs only mention the "mountain railway" Obviously it's not rocket science to find the lifts but I reckon it's telling about the mindset of the management. Puzzled

And Nevis. It would cost next to nothing (compared to a few lift tickets) to run a tractor \ trailer shuttle from the snow\chair to the restaurant. The lack of snow is beyond their control, but it's not a new problem and surly not that hard to manage. Better yet it would demonstrate to clients that the resort values their custom.



Agreed. Finding Aviemore ski resort by road is far more difficult than it needs to be. The roads are undersigned and underposted.

Nevis should immediately invest in a coupla IDE snowmakers. Then it can blast the lower trails with fake snow all-season long and make sure there's always atleast one whitestrip back to the resto.
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david@mediacopy, very fair report I'd say and very interesting to read comments from someone new to Scottish skiing and glad you enjoyed it overall and that you'll be considering coming back Very Happy

I think your comments are spot on with regards uplift at Cairngorm and I'm glad you've decided to sign the petition - it's a pretty persuasive case IMHO. You might also be interested in getting a response to your observations on the Cairngorm blog, which is run by Colin Matthew, ski patrol number 1 and head of winter operations. Colin is very open minded and always willing to listen to constructive comments from everyone who has used the mountain and is a good bloke all round IMHO Toofy Grin

BTW, have taken the liberty of posting a link to this thread on the blog...
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roga, Cool. would have been good to hook up on the Thursday. Next time !
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david@mediacopy,
Quote:

Who actually runs\owns the hill ?

You do Wink. The hill is owned by Highlands and Islands Enterprise (HIE). CML used to be and independent company owned by a not for profit trust, but due to the building of the funicular (and some poor management decisions around the time of the funicular), it built up a large debt which was unsustainable and is now also owned by HIE.
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Dave Horsley,
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You do Wink. The hill is owned by Highlands and Islands Enterprise (HIE)


I had a feeling it may have been set-up like that. A double edged sword maybe.
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david@mediacopy, Re Nevis off-piste - a more adventurous option I'd like to try one day when I can get up there and there is lots of snow: http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46890#1117536
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snowball, I'd give that ago if someone knew the way. The recent pics from firstracks in the Scottish Snow thread show other possibilities.
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Which thread is that? SEARCH gets me one from last year with a slightly different name (involving 800m climb: a bit much perhaps?)
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snowball, http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=56723&start=1000#1509077 a bit further down there is a link to his blog with more detail.

Next year a few of us should organise a little off piste trip snowHead
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david@mediacopy, I'd love to. I would have been up this year if I could but the problem is negotiating ski time with my wife who doesn't ski. I do 3 weeks per year which I have stretched to 8 1/2 days each (going out on the Fridays). 2008 & 9 I managed to sneak an extra weekend but not this year when my wife has just retired at the end of last term just after my 2 March holidays and (understandably) wanted to go to Sicily with me. Now I have to do some work on the house Sad
I don't really go for big skinning (an hour is OK but not much more - particularly as I've had a slight back problem this year and all relapse days seem to follow skinning.

OK, I'll just go and look at your link.....
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snowball, Much the same as my situation, depending. I'm not one for a huge amount of walking either..
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Some interesting looking couloirs behind Cairngorm, though I gather none are as much vertical as the Nevis back Corries. I've never done any of that but could be fun one day. He did far too much hiking for me, though (1,500m vertical first day!!! He climbed up almost all the vertical he skied down - not my idea of fun).

Carn Mor Dearg I've looked at from Nevis and wondered about. Rocky access couloirs down by the look of it (photo 2 background - perhaps time I bought a helmet!), and quite a long hike up (400m vertical and 1km - I just looked at my 1:25,000 map) and along and down the ridge (another km if it is the second bowl as I suspect). Possibly do-able, though about my limit. (My suggestion only involves 150m vertical wink ). Nice sustained, 480m vertical (1,600ft) slope down though Very Happy. More if it is the first bowl.

Good photos of Easy Gully entry - I gather it can vary quite a lot depending on size of cornice and state of snow. Probably better with new snow or later in the day when snow has softened (assuming avalanche risk is OK). Probably good to consult someone at the Ski Patrol hut at the top of summit drag lift.
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snowball, video of tower gulley at
http://youtube.com/v/-35ur5r8zKc looks quite fun.
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Difficult to make out how steep it is but, from what I hear, probably too steep for me at the top. I suppose one could use a rope for the first bit. Amazing long descent, though - about 2000ft before it flattens out along the valley floor (that's 2 Easy Gullies- see below).


photo: sent to me by Craig Cameron (You can just make out part of his track)


Last edited by Ski the Net with snowHeads on Thu 15-04-10 12:47; edited 3 times in total
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