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Ski Banff/Lake Louise: a TR of sorts

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Stayed in Banff with the intention of skiing all 3 resorts but there was no new snow and I prefer the terrain which is easily accessible at LL. Meant a 40 minute bus ride each way which isn't so bad with the views and it is pretty much the same as Sunshine (25 minute bus ride + 15 gondola).

Here goes:

TO: Canadian Affair

Cost: £600 inc return flights from Glasgow via Gatwick to Calgary

Accommodation: Caribou Lodge

Carrier: British Airways for GLA to Gatwick and Thomas Cook onwards to YYC (1 hour 30 minutes + 3 hour wait + 8 hours)

Flights:

BA were good, unusually hot cabin crew on the way back. Usually their internal flights are staffed by those too old for the long haul Wink Charged £35 for my skis (about 25kg) on the way out but the guy didn’t bother on the return which was good.

Thomas Cook were great and we had no issues. New(ish) planes and comfortable seats with plenty legroom which is weird because usually there isn’t quite enough for me on planes. When the plane gets narrower at the back the outside seats get a little smaller so be warned if you are pre-booking. The premium economy isn’t worth it when the flight is quiet and we had a whole row to ourselves which was requested at check in. Cabin crew friendly and helpful. Entertainment was poor. The food wasn’t great and you had to pay for drinks. Gordons and Bombay Sapphire available Smile

Note: Whilst they were fine with my skis on the way back Thomas Cook told check in they were ‘doing it wrong’ and the allowance for skis was now 10kg each, in separate bags, for people travelling. They let us away with it on the promise that we ‘remember next time’. Had an extra ski bag in the double just incase they enforced it.


Hotel:

The Caribou isn’t so bad but is getting fairly dated. Beds weren’t hugely comfortable and the room was kind of small. Didn’t eat in the Keg because I don’t think it is worth the hype but they have a half decent bar that shows the hockey/NFL/whateverelseison. Free ski lockers in basement. I had a brand new pair of skis sitting in the room and housekeeping grassed me up to the front desk. They were reasonable about it and requested I put them in the locker but I just put them under the dresser and nothing more was said. They had us checked out before we even came down to the desk so we handed over the keys and off we went.

Transfers:

Through SunDog (arranged by the TO). Were quick and on time. The shuttle driver on the way out kept skidding to a stop (like he was trying to make up time). The bus driver for the return journey made the near 2 hour journey in less than an hour and a half.


The Town:

Banff is cool. More restaurants, shops and bars than you can shake a stick at. My understanding is that it was a town before it became a ski town so there is a good vibe and loads going on.

Eating and drinking:

Elk and Oarsman - great food. Try and get a seat in the bar as the other side of the restaurant can be fairly busy. Good mix of locals and tourists. Atmosphere is excellent and they show lots of sports.
Coyotes - a must do. Book for breakfast lunch and dinner, especially at weekends.
Aardvark - take away pizza. Fairly average.
Magpie and Stump - choose how hot you want it. Definitely visit.
St. James’ Gate - my favourite. Big selection of single malts.
Rose and Crown - for the pool tables and the food isn’t bad at all.
Pump and Tap - shows UK sports in the evening. Worth it to see the Arsenal fan close to tears. Pool tables slope to one side.

A take away menu is available that will bring you food from any restaurant in town. If you don’t ask for it they won’t bring you materials to eat it with so plan on sourcing your own knives and forks.

Shopping:

Plenty tacky gift shops. Loads of gear to look at. Monods, Patagonia, Banff Mountain Wear and Mountain Magic are the best to look around (IMV). Had skis mounted at short notice in Monods and they did a great job. There is even a Louis Vuitton if that is your thing.


Ski Hire:

Not for me. Used Ultimate Ski and Ride with a 10% discount available from the discount booklet you can pick up locally or any kind of membership (CSIA etc). Salomon Aero something or other. Very well maintained with a fresh tune.

Skiing:

As far as terrain is concerned Lake Louise is one of my favourite hills. As there wasn’t much in the way of fresh snow we spent all of our days but one here. The snow was well groomed on the home runs and still soft/chalky on the steeps. I think I had about 10 completely fresh turns all week which were knee deep but apart from that it was wind effected and crunchy. The accessible backcountry around Lake Louise is extensive and wasn’t seeing a huge amount of traffic considering the ‘low’ avalanche risk all the way to the Alpine.

Looking down over Lipalian Mountain (Larch area) towards Mount Assiniboine in the distance. Mount Temple creeping in to the photo on the right side.

Ultimate Steeps and Whitehorn Mountain

Looking down towards Larch over the whole backside

Can't remember the name

Hikers paradise

The Wall

Snowgun on Larch

Temple on the left and Lake Louise








Edit,

Prices:

Lift passes are bloody expensive. Close to $400 for 6 days. Paid for 5/7 days with the plan of visiting Kicking Horse in mind but the conditions weren't great over there so stayed 'local'. Used the expired ticket to travel on the bus and paid for a day pass at Louise which I think saved about 5 dollars. If you did this and used Norquay as your day where you just purchased a day ticket you would save about $30 a head.

A beer was about $6. Sleemans Honey Brown is the recommendation.

Food is excellent quality and reasonably cheap. Usually c$60 dollars for 2 main meals and 2 drinks.


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 2-02-10 18:04; edited 5 times in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Think I included all the info, let me know if you have any questions.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
arv, great report and wonderful photos! That's also the first photo I've seen on here that shows snow condition clearly - good idea. (I've never eaten a Krispy Kreme do'nut - could be tempted by your last photo. Skullie) I had the opportunity to ski Banff last year, which I ended up turning down on the grounds of cost - it wasn't a neat package or even capable of being a neat DIY trip, unfortunately - but I definitely want to get there at some point. I like the idea of staying in a proper town, even if it means a bit of driving: that's one of the reasons I like Chamonix so much.

[For those who mind about proper location of posts - doesn't bother me, in fact - shouldn't this be in Resort Review/TR forum?]
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arv, How much were the Donuts?

(nice TR wink BTW)
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Maybe someone will notice and move it (if a mod reads this could you please put it in the right place?).

There was a couple staying in Lake Louise village (definitely not a proper town) who paid £359 for 10 days from Gatwick. Without having to pay for the Big3 lift passes and using the local shuttle it can be fairly cheap. There was a guy staying there for 2 weeks on his own and he paid £2200 Shocked

If you can get a reasonably priced flight then it is very cheap before you start thinking about the lift pass. Think it was close to $400 a head.

Donuts were 86c each or 6 for $4.50 - including tax.


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Mon 1-02-10 16:50; edited 1 time in total
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As my friends are going to Banff in 3 weeks and i'm not, let it be known that I don't like arv very much right now... Crying or Very sad

arv, Have they really not had much snow recently? Notice the canons were firing on Louise - not seen that often at this point of the season when i've been before (although if thats taken near where i think it is, that bit does get heavy traffic.)
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Richard_Sideways, I was speaking to a guy on the lift who said the base was largely made in November + December from 2 large snowfalls. Not much in January at all.

Snow canon photo is from the bottom of Larch. Think they are just making hay whilst the sun shines.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Wow, thought it was bit by Whitehorn Lodge where it can get a bit bald, or the corner on Camerons - haven't really been following snowfall this year as not going. Did you go to Sunshine at all and did you hear via grapevine what condition Kicking Horse was in? Friends planning on going to KH for a day but if the bowls are empty, then probably wouldn't be worth the trek over there.
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arv, wonderful photos thanks - great one of Rodney's Ridge there. *gets wistful*
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Richard_Sideways, apparently it was just needing fresh snow, not just snow as such.

Added a few more photos.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Looks great. I see that temple mountain is still beautiful.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
arv, Was in the Caribou same time as you, got back yesterday, but travelled with Inghams and Monarch. Good for me that my group were upgraded to premium on both legs of the flight.

Kicking Horse - did this on Wednesday. Conditions were better than LL. Not busy, very steep off piste, great couliours, fresh untracked to be had if you looked. 2 hours from Banff on a coach, cost for the day was $90.

Echo Elk and Oarsman, can also recommend Saltlik (both upstairs in the resteraunt and at the bar) and Chills (the Fox hotel). Study the menu of the Bison if your tempted, very exp, and food not much to our liking, service very slow.

Plenty of rocks in off piste, couple of our group wrecked skis. So think about local ski insurance of $4 a day to reduce hassle. Used SkiTips but selection was not great, only stocked Volka and Head.

Bod
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
BOD, I've been to KH before. I was just going off the word of someone I got talking too, oh well, LL was good. Any photos?

Saltlik definitely isn't as good as it used to be Wink The bar looked good in Chilis but didn't get round to eating.

SkiTips is reasonable for 'fat' skis. Gotamas/Mantras and they even had a pair of Sanouks when I was in.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
arv,

Glad you had a good time. Heard LL was a bit icy and a bit manic on Friday......... (Calgary schools all shut)

Think it may have snowed up there Saturday night, it did at Nakiska anyway, only a maybe 4 cm but it helps...................

Lots of pre-olympians supposedly arrived at Nakiska today so hopefully catch some this weekend!
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
gryphea, it was busy but just Lake Louise in January busy. I didn't wait in a queue but spent most of the day going top of the world-summit-paradise with some short hikes. Cut out summit when the light was flat. It was hard in spots but Larch had nice snow. As did all the stuff worth skiing, the back bowls had a little windblown fresh. The blue/black that cuts the corner above Wounded Knee had nice soft bumps. I don't get why everyone skis down the middle - suppose it pushes all the nice snow to the edges for people who use a little bit of common sense!
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Awe man... that report brings back happy memories from a couple of years ago!!!!

Cracking photos. Love the one of the ultimate steeps from the side, we were luckier than you with fresh snow though but it's an amazing place all the same.

Very Happy
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
arv, nice TR, what camera were you using for the pics?
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Not entirely sure Laughing Just stole it from the house. I [i]think[i] it is a Nikon D40, a mixture of auto focused shots and manual in both raw and 'fine' format. Absolutely nothing done to the photos, once they came off the camera they went straight on to MobileMe. I had a mess around with the settings and stuff but don't really know what I achieved (if anything) Laughing

Would be good to know what is wrong with them/what could (or needs to be fixed) and how to do it. I have no idea.
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arv, ooh we are off to Banff on 10th March for 2 weeks, so I'm really pleased to read this thread and look at your lovely pics. I have already bought our passes as it worked out cheaper, and we're also hoping to get to Kicking Horse at least once.

Our Hotel doesn't provide free brekki, so any ideas where we can go for that for a reasonable price, would be good ?
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
IncogSkiSno, Kicking Horse is ace, make sure you have lunch at the restaurant at the top of the gondy and book on a sunny day. The price for the trip is $89 and you can book it through Discover Banff Tours.

What is your hotel? Town isn't really practical if you are staying a little while out. I just grabbed breakfast at the hill (good selection at all 3, LL and Sunshine do buffets for about $14. There is also a breakfast menu with bagels etc. Cereal available). Mels and Coyotes are my favourite places for breakfast but will only really be handy if you are staying at Banff Park Lodge/Bow View/Brewsters Mountain Lodge/Mount Royal.
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IncogSkiSno, If you are flying Thomas Cook check this:

Quote:
Note: Whilst they were fine with my skis on the way back Thomas Cook told check in they were ‘doing it wrong’ and the allowance for skis was now 10kg each, in separate bags, for people travelling. They let us away with it on the promise that we ‘remember next time’. Had an extra ski bag in the double just incase they enforced it.


On that basis I probably won't fly with them again.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...


This photo brings back happy memories... and slightly terrifying ones as well. From the highest point in this photo, we came down just to the right of the main cliff band in the middle. Probably the steepest thing i have came down on skis! Absolutely amazing once i found the bottle to get a rhythm going though! Very Happy
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
arv, Thanks we are staying here:

http://www.inghams.co.uk/ski-holidays/hotels/item92376/banff-inn/

Flying with Moinarch Airlines
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
arv, great report and photos - except for the donuts.....Having just eaten a creme brulée (after gratin dauphinois with the first course, albeit without cheese) I can't cope with donut pics tonight.
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IncogSkiSno, not flown with Monarch to comment. Your hotel is only 10/15 minutes walk out of town and I am pretty sure the ski bus stops right outside. If you want to lock your skis up at lunchtime buy a 'SkiKey' or if I am home any time in the next month or so I will send you one as long as you send it back. The Big3 all have lots of suitable racks.

shoogly, being early season a lot of the chutes from the Wall/top of Paradise were a little hairy but I'd say they have good cover. Stability has been great so I wouldn't be hugely surprised to see ER5 opening up pending more snow...
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shoogly wrote:

From the highest point in this photo, we came down just to the right of the main cliff band in the middle. Probably the steepest thing i have came down on skis! Absolutely amazing once i found the bottle to get a rhythm going though! Very Happy


I've run in to people who've tried to tell me LL is "flat". Shocked
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Alexandra, Shocked Laughing

Let them keep thinking that Wink
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
arv, They're the same people who think LL "doesn't have much" and who've never ridden the summit platter. Very Happy
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
arv, aww thanks, but I'd rather not borrow yoour key as you'd probably never get it back. Are these lockers situated outside the restaurants ?
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
IncogSkiSno, no worries. They are outside every restaurant/lodge. The keys are about $30 but much more secure than a daft wee cable lock.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
arv, cheers, could be worth buying one - can you buy them in resort or only online ?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
IncogSkiSno, can buy them at the resorts and in town as well. We forgot one of ours this year so picked one up in the shop at Sunshine Day 1.
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