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which diamond grade is DMT red?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I have a black, blue and red DMT diamond file but not sure what the grades are - they aren't on the file. Red feels the smoothest and black coarse.
In the past I have used a alu ox stone to rub down the edges.
Is it worth using the stone and then the red file after?
I've never been able to keep sharp edges using just the stone.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
They DON'T follow piste grades:

Black is coarsest but then blue and then red.

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/colorcode.htm
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
GordonFreeman,

you shouldn't need the black one at all unless you're skiing rock fields.

Blue Red Green is the progression.
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comprex, but that progression is for sharpening.
Sorry, I should have been a bit clearer, I just meant on the hill sharpening and back in the lodge (read car park or flat cough cough Smile) with a hand guide.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
slight drift here, but i have never found using diamonds alone get a real sharp edge, especially after a few rock hits etc.

i got a video recently that a race team did here and they filmed an austrian ski tech doing his WC routine. what struck me was on race skis with little damage he took quite a bit off with files "to sharpen" prior to using diamonds "to polish" the edges. My understanding was that diamonds alone were okay but having just come in from the garage and doing the file and diamond method they feel a lot sharper to me....

ps on the diamonds i use they are graded 200, 400 and 600 ...

any comments?
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GordonFreeman, use the alu oxide stone first then a diamond, the red is 600, the stone will take of the hardened burr's which you can then file with the diamond
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
just spotted altis, post Embarassed
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
and if I ever need to sharpen use the black or blue ones?
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GordonFreeman wrote:

Sorry, I should have been a bit clearer, I just meant on the hill sharpening and back in the lodge (read car park or flat cough cough :)) with a hand guide.


Of course. Changes nothing. The blue stone will remove hardened bits nicely. You don't need the black. (you also, imo, don't need the green superfine)

The advantage to starting with the AlOx is that it is possibly cheaper than the blue and therefore will save wear and tear on the blue.

The disadvantage of the AlOx is that it may not fit the hand guide, so your first grind is off-geometry.


Actual sharpening (as in at-home-shaping-of-the-edge) is best done with actual metal files after the burrs are removed by something else.
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skimottaret wrote:
slight drift here, but i have never found using diamonds alone get a real sharp edge, especially after a few rock hits etc.

i got a video recently that a race team did here and they filmed an austrian ski tech doing his WC routine. what struck me was on race skis with little damage he took quite a bit off with files "to sharpen" prior to using diamonds "to polish" the edges. My understanding was that diamonds alone were okay but having just come in from the garage and doing the file and diamond method they feel a lot sharper to me....

ps on the diamonds i use they are graded 200, 400 and 600 ...

any comments?

Not quite WC level, but when tuning Will's skis after training and/or racing (a pair of skis for each!) I ALWAYS give the edges a run over with a medium chrome file - not putting any pressure on, just let the weight of the file and guide do the work, before finshing with 100, 200 and 400 diamond files. Always more effective than just diamond files.

I use Moonflex (black-100, red-200, yellow-400) as sold here by a nice man from up Nottingham way.....
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Jon.L, thanks, good to know!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
skimottaret, Laughing sorry - followed a slightly off-topic post and took it way off with info of no use to the OP!
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Jon.L, that's OK, I tried to bring files vs diamonds into context for GordonFreeman just before you posted.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
comprex, Jon.L, the common wisdom on this board seems to be to only use diamonds but whenever i see people tune who get really really sharp edges they take more than a few passes with files EVERY time they sharpen their skis. I was surprised after watching two ex WC skiers demonstrating how to do a tune just how much they took off..could be cause they used to get free skis Toofy Grin
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
skimottaret, some of the guys on the racing scene use a chrome 'race' file which is an absolutely frightening thing! The teeth on it are huge and if you put too much pressure on, they just dig into the edge and it's bin time for the skis. But yes, a couple of passes with one of these things and the edges are like razors. They ain't cheap either!

I've tried the 100-200-400 diamond-only route and find it just doesn't work.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Jon.L, yeah i now use one of those to do the first pass... but as you say you gotta be careful...
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
skimottaret, the 2nd cut file is your best friend.

http://www.slidewright.com/proddetail.php?prod=ML0502
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
skimottaret, I always use the 2nd cut file linked to by comprex, and then finish off with a 400 diamond. Also polish the bevel using a 200 diamond. Diamond files are OK for keeping an already sharp edge up to scratch during the day, or if you've had a really soft snow day, but like the others say it doesn't do enough to get a proper sharp edge - the difference is huge - but after the file you do need to finish off with the diamond. If I want to get anything like an edge on my off-piste skis as well I'd be at them for a month using just a diamond.
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comprex, I have to say my old chrome file is pretty useless and i have stareted to use a very stiff sharp panzer and then onto diamonds so could do with a quality medium to fine chrome file. thanks for the link that will definately be a new addition to my tuning gear!!

GrahamN, can you get em over here online or is it a bartletts run...
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skimottaret, I have one I picked up at Bartletts (actually Sally delivered it to me at Hemel), but I also got a pretty much identical FKS one (World Cup chrome) from Spyderjon (not sure whether he still does it now though). Terry also does mail order if you want.
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skimottaret, GrahamN, I also use the FKS one from spyderjon and it's a fantastic file. Still have the fine cut Vallorbe I've picked up from Terry in the past and they're all good files!
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Jon.L, GrahamN, thanks guys..
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
skimottaret, on badly blunted edges I do a little with each of the following: milled file, coarse/ba$tard file (12cpcm), 2nd cut/med file (16cpcm), fine file (20cpcm) & then onto diamond files.
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Jon.L, comprex, thanks for the tips, i just bought a couple 2nd cut files and one of the race files you suggested, it looks seriously sharp (half price as it was the guys last one Cool )
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spyderjon, thanks jon, i now have a full selection and no excuses anymore... ps im in the states at the moment and a race shop where im at is going out of business and he had a few things left. i may be able to get some real cheap 1000 swix diamonds if you are interested. he had about a dozen and i am sure would take an offer...
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