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Colorado advice

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I've instituted a new policy of actually using the gazillion BA miles I've accumulated over the years; mainly for the purpose of skiing, of course. This year we skied at a couple of Lake Tahoe resorts, staying with friends in their "cabin". Next year, I'm booking flights to Denver, in March. My previous skiing has all (with one exception) been in the the Alps or West Coast US (Sierra Nevada/Cascades). The snow there, though more reliably abundant than in the Alps, is very much the same quality. I've plumped for Colorado to get (I hope) lots of powder. I've had very few really good powder days in the Alps or California/Oregon.

So, the question is, where exactly to go. Obviously (I think), it will be a DIY trip. For myself (and the (grown up) kids, if they come), I'm looking for steep and deep, and as much vertical as possible. Mrs L is OK with steep, but wary of straying off groomers. So having alternate routes down the same slopes is a must (and I imagine not that difficult to find). If anyone could recommend a good instructor, that might make a difference. I don't need to go to famous resorts (eg Vail, Aspen), but if that's where the best skiing is to be found, so be it (I'm not particularly price-sensitive). I'll have a car, but would prefer somewhere that's not too far from Denver. Staying in an "authentic" town/village, with good choice of restaurants and somewhere to stroll in the evening is preferable to slope-side accommodation for me. Not too fussed about hotel versus self-catering. I'm quite happy to drive within reason to different resorts to sample more mountains, but would prefer to lodge in one place only.

Any suggestions, or just experience to relate, would be most welcome. snowHead
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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La Woss USA
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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laundryman, I can tell you that in 1993 Lake Tahoe itself was the most hateful, soulless place I had ever been and remains so.

Imagine Keele services on the M6 with it's fast food, traffic and ugly punters, then bolt on a one-trick-pony snowdome, add in tacky casinos and hookers and "voila". Avoid
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red 27, I've skied there loads - but never on the Nevada side, so no casinos. Slots were much in evidence at Reno airport though, and even at gas stations once across the Calif/Nevada state line. I can't stand them either.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
laundryman, you are a hardy soul... It made me clinically depressed
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I've only had a week in Breck/Keystone/Vail and found it OK, but nothing to write home about. The snow there was not much different from the alps either. I've not been there myself, but I understand that the true powder experience is more often found in Utah than CO. But I'm sure there are much more informed people around here to give you more authoritative opinions than this.
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red 27 wrote:
Imagine Keele services on the M6 with it's fast food, traffic and ugly punters, then bolt on a one-trick-pony snowdome, add in tacky casinos and hookers and "voila".
Sounds great, shall we get Admin to organise a bash there Toofy Grin
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
GrahamN, I could fly to Salt Lake City, it's not booked yet. I have thought about it, but was put off by my last Utah experience (in 1981) when it was difficult to buy a beer! Maybe times have changed but beer and wine is a consideration for me!
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GrahamN wrote:
. The snow there was not much different from the alps either.


You Heretic! any fule kno that everything is bigger, better, fluffier, cheaper, sexier and cooler in America... Laughing
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laundryman, I holidayed in Aspen 15 years ago, and enjoyed it. The various mountains offer a lot of variety and it's well organised, as you would expect; travel between the mountains by bus is very straightforward.

We went to Breckenridge a few years ago and enjoyed it; again, a lot of variety and some good fun in bounds off piste, easily accessible by lift, and there is now more, I believe, or what there is is more easily accessible, or something. Sleeping at 10000+ feet is not great, however, and for that reason I probably won't return.

We spent a day in Vail, late season, snow far from great. I can't really comment on the skiing much, although the bowls were interesting. The rest of it didn't look that exciting, but not a fair test by any means. I can say that Vail town is utterly hideous, the most unpleasant looking ski town I've been to. It appears to be a mock Austrian town designed by someone who had never visited Austria under guidance from someone who went there many years ago and immediately afterwards went blind. It was built by a company who had obviously got a great deal on a load of army surplus pre fabricated panelling. The quality of the food and drink seemed high, though.
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This is just a shot in the dark from no real grounding but what about somewhere like Jackson?
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richmond, thanks.

arv, I think Jackson is a long way from anywhere one might fly direct to, which would be a disadvantage, especially for Mrs L, but I will look it up.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Deep it may be, steep isn't Colorado's selling point. Utah is much more like it. But you still won't get the kind of steep you see in Tahoe. (Dry snow just don't stick to steep slopes too well...)

1) Utah: You can go to Park City and get your beer, nice little village to stroll in and some nice skiing. Less than an hr from the airport. And if a storm comes, you can hop over to SLC to sample the mythical deep powder of Cottonwood Canyons.

2) Colorado:

- If price isn't a big issue, Aspen is one of the best. Lots of varied terrain, from bad @ss steep and deep to easy cruisy. And they all meet up back at the bottom! NO CROWD even during holiday period. The base village of Aspen is quite nice. Snowmass is smaller but still nice, you get to ski-in/ski-out for a change (a bit cheaper than Aspen village too). Generally high standard restorants. But it's a bit of a drive from Denver distance-wise.

- Breckenridge isn't particularly cheap but probabaly a tiny bit less than Aspen during non-holiday week. Pretty good terrain but in my view not as good and varied as Aspen. Though combine with the rest of the Summit county resorts, it adds up to quite a lot of terrain. Beware of crowds (at least by NA standard, maybe better compare to half term France). There's village with some resturants. I'm not impressed with either the village nor the food standards (vary individually)

- Steamboat! Again, not exactly cheap but definitely less than Aspen. Terrain is wooded. Not know for steep but well-known as powder haven, even on piste (yes, this is NA, no grooming for a few hours after a big powder dump). Relatively less crowded than Summit county resorts. An authentic old west village. Of all the Colorado resorts, Steamboat village is the only one that's well below 9000' aside from Vail (see below), if that's a concern. Negative is a bit of a drive from Denver and need to go over a high elevation pass.

- Vail: It's a nice resort by many standard. HOWEVER, the powder bowls and cruisy pistes are on different side of the ridge. So if you can't persuade your wife to drop into the powder bowls, you won't see her till lunch at the earliest unless you also stick to piste cruising. This is the one thing unique about Vail, which appeals to most but may be a negative point for your situation. It gets crazy busy some of the times.

- Telleride, Creted Butt: Never been. Scenery looks drop dead gorgeous.


Last edited by So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much on Mon 11-05-09 15:42; edited 1 time in total
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
March is Peak Season. Top rates for Hotels atec

Authentic ski Towns

Aspen (3-4hrs good weather drving)
Telluride (5-6 hrs good weahter driving)

Crested Butte is an old town however if they close one of the top lifts half the mountain(best stuff) is unskaible
Breakenridge & Steamboat are much nearer Denver so you get alot of Tour Company,s. There old towns have been taken over by New mountain developments.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
abc, stanton, thanks.

I'll investigate Aspen, Steamboat and Telluride in more detail. My sister raved about Telluride when she went there a few years back.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
laundryman, Went to Co 3 times and had 30+ skiing there in '05. Without exception each time we flew into Denver we just got out and up the interstate before a big dump came in and ensured we had a great 11/12 days. We stayed in Breckenridge each time, in the town, at the bottom of the 4o'clock run at River Mountain Lodge (try VRBO to cut out agents fees bumping up rentals on apts). From Breck you can ski Breck (obviously), Keystone, A Basin & Vail (all on one pass with a shortish drive), one time we drove to Aspen just to see what the fuss was about (potentially great skiing, but expensive and soulless). All the resorts lack the atmosphere of Europe but Breck has plenty of eateries and decent beer (as most of Co does). For skiing there is some good hikes to offpiste in Breck, the bowls in Vail, for a bit steeper try A Basin (though the piste area is not big from memory) it's small friendly and I thought had a good feel, can't remember anything about Keystone.

Hope that helps.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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If it were me, I'd put Utah over Co, but would be inclined to head frurther north anyway...but that decision would be entirely for skiing reasons alone and not anything else that may make a family holiday.

I be thinking downtown SLC and drive to the skiing on a daily basis...

midgetbiker, decent beer...?????
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
laundryman wrote:
richmond, thanks.

arv, I think Jackson is a long way from anywhere one might fly direct to, which would be a disadvantage, especially for Mrs L, but I will look it up.


You can fly into Jackson, changing at various US hubs, then it's 20mins (I think) to the ski town, and bit further to Jackson village....
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JT, Well it may not be proper bitter but there are lots of micro breweries in Co so its better than standard US (or euro for that matter) fare.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Last trip was more than ten years ago but at that time nothing beat Snowbird for powder. At that time we were early intermediate & my memory is that much of the ski area was a bit beyond us because of all the steep & deep. Wonder how we would find it now? Never went to Alta (next door) but it had a great reputation for powder & steep unpisted terrain -presume it's still open. Went to Jackson once- great for good intermediate/advanced/expert, but wasted on less experienced. From Jackson you can take day trips to Grand Teton which has loads of powder, not very challenging piste but used to offer snow cat off-piste skiing. Winter Park/Mary Jane arguably has the best snow record in Co. & great powder in March/April. Also the closest resort to Denver. Some serious moguls, good beginner & intermediate skiing, but maybe not a lot to excite an advanced skier. Admittedly there were some backbowls, nothing like as big as those at Vail but I think they have opened up more terrain since. Never went to Aspen, but many people who know say that it is the best resort in Colorado.

Suspect either Utah or Aspen would suit you best given what you have said. When we went, the locals said they generally saw most powder late season.
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laundryman, Since you say you prefer "authentic" town/village resorts both Aspen, Telluride and Crested Butte are old mining towns which have since developed extensively (and in Aspen's case expensively Toofy Grin ).

Aspen has four ski areas, but the original ski area Aspen Mountain (also called Ajax) has varied and challenging skiing and its Silver Queen gondala is easy to get to from the town centre.

Telluride has a great setting at the end of a box canyon Smile , and again lift access is easy from the town centre.

Crested Butte historic town itself is about 3 miles from the slopes at Mt Crested Butte; however there is a frequent free shuttle service between the two. The skiing is varied and it's particularly well known for its back bowl area (see piste map). It was of course the centre of revival of interest in Telemark skiing in the 1970s and 80s, so you should see plenty of free heelers ripping it up! Toofy Grin . In Crested Butte town I can really recommend Donita's Cantina if you like mexican food - try the chimichangas, they're excellent! Very Happy

Although you said you prefer to stay in one resort, since you'll have a car you could quite easily spend half your time in one resort and with a few hours drive transfer to another resort for the second part of your stay.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
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laundryman,
Quote:

I think Jackson is a long way from anywhere one might fly direct to, which would be a disadvantage,

Although the air travel might take time. It's probably worth bearing in mind that the transfer when yuo arrive is very short. Which is a real advantage when renting a car.
I was a bit unlucky with the snow when I went but there is a lot to do and the ski area is very good. I would go back like a shot but don't really enjoy the long flights and jet lag on return.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Snow conditions, especially powder is always hit or miss, even for the places with the best track records. The best way to get powder is pick an area with a good snow record and live there a season or two with a flexible schedule so you can make it out every powder morning.

With that said, other than some of the Pacific Northwest areas which tend to get wetter, heavier powder without a lot of sunshine, Alta/Snowbird probably have the best snow record in the States with good terrain, but the powder doesn't always last that long (unless the road is closed) as they are so close to a major metro area. The other northern Utah resorts don't get quite as much powder, but it doesn't get skied out as quick at some of the smaller resorts.

Targee gets a lot of powder also, but as was mentioned, is not noted for steep terrain. Jackson Hole may have the best terrain in the US with a decent amount of powder- not as much as Snowbird/Alta, but lighter crowds can help it to last. Off the radar places like some in Montana & Idaho can see powder last longer even if they don't get as much as Snowbird/Alta.

In Colorado, Wolf Creek, Steamboat & Vail typically get the most powder with Vail known for the best terrain & heaviest crowds of the 3. Beaver Creek gets almost as much as Vail, but the crowds are suppose to be lighter. See Lechbobs TR about staying in Frisco if you like the idea of accessing multiple resorts. For steep, lift serviced back country skiing, Silverton would be the way to go, but there is nothing for your wife.

March is typically a good month at many resorts, but Spring Break time can mean heavier crowds in some areas while late March can see a deterioration in conditions due to either sun exposure (an issue at Jackson Hole with fewer north facing slopes than many other areas) or lower elevation (Steamboat & many non-CO resorts)
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Just booked - hotel in downtown Steamboat. snowHead
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laundryman,

Cool Very Happy
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Telluride.


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