 Poster: A snowHead
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Aviemore?
If you've ever worked there, you'll know why Cairngorm draws you back like a tartan fridge magnet or a steaming bowl of real porridge and a buttered kipper.
Yesterday I was mainly on the hill, or circling the spectacularly beautiful Loch Morlich at its base, watching the pistes flowing into it. Arriving in the Highlands on Monday I saw the remnants of what must have been one of the most impressive snowstorms in years - at low altitudes and higher altitudes. Despite a classic McFoehrn (the dreaded mild Atlantic airstream that strips the Scottish mountains of their snow) the roadsides were littered with snowploughed drifts and big branches of pine trees felled by the weight of snow. This was especially true on the Slochd Pass between Aviemore and Inverness, the blockage of which had halted hundreds of juggernauts a few days earlier.
Cairngorm was very busy indeed. Both top carparks were full, with the access road closed beyond the Ciste carpark, where a shuttle bus was taking skiers up to the funicular station. For those who mourn the Golden Age of Cairngorm Skiing (the other thread has relevance here) the Ciste Chairlift Cemetery (not an official term) was open to the public, with scores of dead chairlift seats neatly stacked on the ground, the base station in a state of deriliction and the old pylons standing tall but sad.
90% of downhill traffic seemed to be on the Coire Cas - the White Lady and Ciste Gully (two of the best advanced runs on the mountain) almost deserted. Hardly anyone was skiing the M1 either. The uplift out of the Ciste is a sad compromise now - no West Wall chairlift, and a poma involving an even longer traverse or hike out of the gully.
That said, half-term business was booming, with learners heading up to the Ptarmigan bowl for a slide and an easy ride down again on the funicular if they didn't fancy their chances on the traverse and Cas. The resort seemed to be heaving. The bizarre story of Aviemore continues to unfold - now featuring even more identikit characterless housing estates off the Grampian Road - but a meal in the legendary Winking Owl was as enjoyable as always (despite little sign of an instructors' community thereabouts). Prices of food and drink are a fraction of much of the Alps, and there's a good choice of restaurants nowadays. But what remains of the 'Aviemore Centre' is deader than ever (it didn't seem possible). MacDonald Hotels group now control the area, but if you want that class of family accommodation I'd go for the Hilton Coylumbridge, a short distance from the resort and clearly the choice of the 4x4 set.
We stayed in Kingussie, at quite extraordinary value. 29 quid for a big double room (room price per night) with an impeccable ensuite bathroom including jet-bath.
As always, Scotland has a huge amount to offer if you're prepared to gamble on the skiing and the weather. I experienced the usual well of emotion, returning through the Drumochter this morning, and its fabulous panoramas.
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[This posting is from the Elephant House cafe/restaurant in Edinburgh - where the unemployed J.K. Rowling wrote Harry Potter - a few yards from the National Library of Scotland and Edinburgh Central Library, and well worth a pilgrimage.]
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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That was an enjoyable read, thanks.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| rob@rar wrote: |
| That was an enjoyable read, thanks. |
Seconded.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| Quote: |
Scotland has a huge amount to offer if you're prepared to gamble on the skiing and the weather
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Like Roulette always put money on the "white"?
Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Wed 18-02-09 15:00; edited 1 time in total
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Great read, Would love to ski Scotland maybe one day!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Yes a great read. Over summer I stayed at Slochd Mhor, a hostel tucked just down below the main road in Slochd Pass. Ian the owner does bike repairs and guiding in summer, and in winter does ski servicing, XC ski hire and tuition. I quite fancy going back up in winter as it was a lovely place to stay - and this year, after several years of trying, Ian finally won the Golden Spurtle World Porridge Championship. He was kind enough to make porridge for our breakfast one morning, only a few weeks before he won the championship and I can tell you there wasn't very much talking once it was served - and neither was there very much left!
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David Goldsmith, The reasons are :-
1) You realised that people will no longer be able to ask you when you last went skiing to score debating points.
2) You presumably did not fly to get there ? If not, you can now score additional debating points in threads about green issues.
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| Latchigo wrote: |
David Goldsmith, The reasons are :-
1) You realised that people will no longer be able to ask you when you last went skiing to score debating points.
2) You presumably did not fly to get there ? If not, you can now score additional debating points in threads about green issues. |
Technically I'll think you'll find that he only "decided" to ski in Aviemore? Is the plastic slope in town still there? 
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Nice post DG, have a super holiday.
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Nice post Goldenballs, it takes me back to the golden era of skiing... bumps the size of VW Beetles down the Ciste, Vielhaber Skis and Sheiling Pies. Our only evening entertainment was the weekly Salomon film show in the Winky. Did your boots explode this time?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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David Goldsmith, Great read ... even if I've never been there. Mind you the Rowling reference is interesting as well.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Nice one DG 
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You know it makes sense.
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David Goldsmith, Do they still show Dick Barrymore films in the Osprey? Does it still exist? (Sorry, I know the answer to that one, sadly)...
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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under a new name, and do The Trampies still play in The Red Mac?
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Poster: A snowHead
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| Bode Swiller wrote: |
| ... Vielhaber Skis ... |
That certainly brought back memories, as did the OP. I don't think I ever had Vielhaber skis but I seem to remember being instructed by ? Vielhaber.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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espri, Leo
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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i snowboarded at nevis range 9 years ago, stayed in glenlocky guest house in fort william. One of the best 'ski' 'snowboard' holidays i've ever had, we were blessed with snow which helps of course, and i can still remember the best scrambled eggs i've ever tasted! i highly recommend you try nevis range if there is snow about. 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Sounds good. I've never skied in Scotland and quite fancied going up for a long weekend.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| Bode Swiller wrote: |
| espri, Leo |
Thank you 
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| David Goldsmith wrote: |
| 90% of downhill traffic seemed to be on the Coire Cas - the White Lady and Ciste Gully (two of the best advanced runs on the mountain) almost deserted. Hardly anyone was skiing the M1 either. The uplift out of the Ciste is a sad compromise now - no West Wall chairlift, and a poma involving an even longer traverse or hike out of the gully. |
Could that be explained by it being a holiday week and most of the family lessons using the Upper Ciste and its friendly poma to learn and the gentle Cas piste and the train to return after progressing a little ? T-Bars such as those on the Ciste bowl and the steeper M1 poma strike fear into many newbies (especially boarders) and the poma serving Coire Ciste has developed a bit of a reputation for high velocity launches. My youngest 'got air' a few times down there last year. 
Where was it you stayed at Kingussie and did you get breakfast included too ?
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| Bode Swiller wrote: |
| under a new name, and do The Trampies still play in The Red Mac? |
Thankfully the last time they tried to play there, the bulldozers moved in and flattened the place. Though rumour has it Arthur escaped to start a ski school in France..... 
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Oh and yes the Osprey Cinema still exists, though if you go in through the entrance to the Osprey building and visit the boys room, it's hard to imagine it's the same building that through the 80s and 90s housed Crofters Show Bar! Crofters is now back to what it was originally a large restaurant/food court.
For What its worth (and for skiers this winter not a lot), but both the Coire Na Ciste and West Wall Chairlifts are still mechanically operable and on occasion are still used to carry goods and work gear in and out of the Ciste. The old pylons still stand tall, and these old Mueller lifts will never die, so never say never.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Hurtle,
Do they do heli-skiing in Scotland?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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David Goldsmith,
I'm pleased you enjoyed your trip and shared it with us. First time OH skied on real snow was in Glencoe about five years ago, we were also blessed with fresh snow even though the trip had been planned months in advance.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| Latchigo wrote: |
David Goldsmith, The reasons are :-
1) You realised that people will no longer be able to ask you when you last went skiing to score debating points.
2) You presumably did not fly to get there ? If not, you can now score additional debating points in threads about green issues. |
The reasons for what? Being there?
Point (1) certainly had crossed my mind, but I have a hugely embarrassing admission to make and haven't quite worked out how to break it to you.
Your presumption in point (2) is correct. All transport used to reach Cairngorm was wingless, including a free rail journey to Edinburgh from Kings X (as I'm sure National Express will refund the fare as promised) because the train broke down for 70 mins. In terms of green issues, we stopped at the great little cafe at Glenmore (the one on the right side of the road heading for the mountain) where you can see red squirrel and pine marten. The shop linked to that sweet cafe - which also trades as http://www.sledges.co.uk - did huge business in plastic sledges from the recent UK snow because they distribute them around the country.
Here's their red squirrel and bird cam!
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| Quote: |
Point (1) certainly had crossed my mind, but I have a hugely embarrassing admission to make and haven't quite worked out how to break it to you.
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David Goldsmith, you didn't ski? You went up and walked around a bit? Your boots exploded? You did something unthinkable to a red squirrel? You made it all up? C'mon, spill the beans. You'll feel better when you get it off your chest.
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You know it makes sense.
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All my dreams ended on the first floor of Ellis Brigham, Grampian Road. [I'm not making this up.]
No problem at all with the boots this time. The squirrel episode (we also stopped by at the reindeer centre, BTW) followed our time on the hill, so I certainly can't blame any small furry animals for the problem.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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David Goldsmith, what happened on the floor of a ski shop? Will I find it in the local paper?
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Poster: A snowHead
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Put it this way: we were not the only ones to have our dreams shattered on the first floor of Ellis Brigham at about 6pm last Monday. I think Bob and Ellis Brigham would have wept themselves if they'd been there. We were relatively well off - whole families (one of which had driven up from Gloucestershire) walked down the stairs, utterly dejected.
Have I given you enough clues, Swiller?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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David Goldsmith, ran out of hire gear?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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David Goldsmith,
1.) They remembered you from last time (the reindeer riding incident with you dressed as a cirencester cowboy) and refused to serve you?
2.) You just wouldn't let it lie and had to demonstrate your break dancing skills again?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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David Goldsmith, have you taken up snowboarding?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Bode Swiller, you are a world-class genius.
For anyone in the know (and I always try to mix with the right people) Ellis Brigham was the last resort (sic) for anyone wanting to rent skis last Monday evening. There's a busier place round the back of the shops (where the Vielhaber ski factory used to be, from memory) with big rental stocks, but they'd been cleaned out. The prospects for the following morning, at any of the rental outlets, were next to zero. I reckon hundreds of people in Aviemore were looking for skis - the one-hour queue we joined in Brighams was just those mad enough to think there was any hope.
Later on we met a lovely couple from Derbyshire in the Winkie who offered us spare pairs of 200s and 170s, if we could get to the Glenmore caravan park by about 8am and find their caravan.
There are limits, Swiller, though I do set them high.
A 1000-mile round-trip with me boots and no skiing. I was desolate.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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David Goldsmith, hey, at least you got to study the Ts&Cs of National Express - I think we'd all like to see the correspondence.
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We also had a chance to check out the 'T-bar' in the daylodge, by the Cairngorm carpark. That's got to be the most uninspired and most depressingly furnished/catered cafe in any ski area in the world. It deserves an Oscar.
The old Plateau Chateau at Glencoe (notorious, but at least it had an atmosphere of refuge and companionship from the elements) was like the Ritz in comparison.
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One sad footnote to the trip was seeing the Struan House hotel in Carrbridge (a few miles towards Inverness on the old road from Aviemore, for those who don't know the lie of the land).
Struan House was run by one of the great figures in Scottish skiing - Karl Fuchs, one of the Austrian instructors who established quality ski instruction up there and the formation of BASI (there's a plaque in his memory in the Cairngorm daylodge) - and had a lovely atmospheric quality for apres-ski. The hotel has hoardings around it, and looks set for demolition unless someone rescues it.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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