 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi,
just wondered the best way to wash my ski jacket - label says to wash in neutral at 30 whatever that means?
Dont want to ruin a £150 jacket or lose its waterproofing - any ideas/tips would be appreciated 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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If it's goretex make sure your detergent doesn't contain fabric conditioner.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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hopingforsnow, wot Spyderman says. Normal detergent will clog up the breathability of your jacket - the Nikwax Techwash won't and may restore the waterproofing. If it doesn't, just re-waterproof it using the Nikwax either wash-in or spray on
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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hopingforsnow,
Use pure soap not detergents and medium heat. Nikwax Tech Wash and TX-Direct (from S&R or EBrigham) are products specifically for washing and proofing technical gear. Follow the instructions. Neutral means not acidic or alkaline.
If it is Gore Tex you should use medium heat tumble dryer to re activate the membrane.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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welshflyer, I've just washed my Gore Tex jacket on a 30 degree cycle - didn't use fabric softener, but didn't tumble dry it because the instructions say not to...
Hope it'll be ok, it's the first time I've washed it. Least it came out clean though!
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Hi, just be careful if your kit is not all one colour, particularly the lining of jackets/trousers as this can be a difference material and not colourfast.
The best bet, if its all one colour, is to wash it in soap flakes to get it clean - you can buyt these in Tesco, then treat it with Nikwax reproofer (the wash in stuff) that will restore the waterproofing. Fabric conditioner clogs the pores in the Goretex membrane which is why all kit says to avoid it. A good wash with soap flakes and a bit of re-proofing sorts it out though so no need to panic.
I do alot of mountaineering and the kit needs alot of washing, especially if your out in the sun....
Just be careful about colour runs! There are products out there if you do have a disaster! 
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As above, soap flakes or any of the numerous nikwax products, though I prefer grangiers...depends on the item really. Just don't use normal detergent or fabric conditioner.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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hopingforsnow, Ive used Nikwax in past but have discovered that Grangers was much better. Use their detergant then wash again with their waterproofing - excellent results. Should cost around £5 per bottle.
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I think I'll need to wash mine again with waterproofing stuff - I know I didn't start this thread but thanks for some useful advice anyway 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Heck! I just put mine in the washing machine on a normal wash along with everything else. It's probably been through 5 or 6 cycles by now. Never really thought about it...
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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As boabski says GRANGERS is way way better than Nikwax.
get the 30degree wash and 30deg re-proofer and have a good heat cycle in the tumble dryer for about 45-60 mins. This is crucial to getting good results.
Then wash when needed using just the 30 degree wash and a heat cycle for the next 10 washes. Will be better than brand new.
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Iron a Gore-tex after on a low heat setting... it de-fluffs the surface fabric thus encouraging water to bead off.
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You know it makes sense.
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Thanks people -couldnt find Grangers so have bought Nikwax for now - maybe next time I will buy a black jacket instead of mostly cream with chocolate trim - sounds good enough to eat lol! then I wouldnt need to wash it so often 
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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As I often post on this question I was once advised on hear to make sure that the clothing was tumble dried in warm heat after proofing to make the treatment work - of course taking into account the care instructions on the garment itself.
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Poster: A snowHead
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queen bodecia, oops! Have accidentally done that but the jacket survived.
hopingforsnow, Techwash it then sprayproof it, let it drip a bit and like Megamum says tumble dry it. Seemed to work OK on my black and orange Goretex shell jacket this holiday. Would avoid the wash in proofer as it proofs inside and out so not such a great idea. Sweaty...
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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if it's just a normal fleece, i chuck it in the wash with all my other clothes 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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hopingforsnow, I have a jacket in the same colours and was worried like you. It got wet in places over xmas and water marks and grease from goodness knows where were all over the place. Yesterday I sprayed a bit of stain remover onto those bits and chucked it, with its hood separate (which was fine but want them to age together), in the wash on their own for a 40degree wool cycle with one block of washing powder (normally use two for a full wash). It came out sopping wet and so I hung it on a tall radiator (which only comes on periodically) with a big coat hanger to keep the shoulders rounded and valcro'd it up to keep its shape (hooked a strap of the hood over hook of the hanger to keep its shape). Half dry this morning, I rotated it before I went to work and when I got back this evening it was bone dry and looking as good as new, all ready for Italy  I hope you're as fortunate.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Never make the same mistake as I did - bought a white columbia jacket with orange side panels....... after many seasons and trips of having grease dropped on it from ski lifts (never sit in the middle of the 6 main chair!), mud sprayed up from end of season 'only got snow on half the slope' adventures and general grime from skis being thrown over shoulder (with bindings behind shoulder and tips down you'll be pleased to know) - the white is no longer anywhere near white! However, washing with normal detergent at 30 degrees followed by a good soaking with Nikwax proofing and it is still as wind and rain proof as ever (just not quite as pretty!). Be very careful on buying the wash-in stuff - only use it for jackets with no lining whatsoever - mine has a mesh wicking layer and you really don't want that to be waterproofed. And the guy at S+R advised to reproof while damp out of the washer not dry as per instructions - the proofing permeates the shell better apparantly. My next jacket will be black - who needs to look different and stand out on the slopes!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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im confused
waterproofing????? Gore-tex is waterproof, you need to avoid clogging the tiny holes that let sweat out but are too small for water.... so no fabric conditioner which I am led to believe will do just that.
The problem is the gore-tex is a coating on the inside of the fabric so the outside will become moist/wet in rain unless there is a surface treatment to make the water bead and run off instead of soaking in. I would suspect the main reason for water to soak in rather than bead would be the residual soap left from washing ( soap weakens the surface tension of water ). Problem is if you wash without using any soap you don't remove dirt/oil/greese, maybe the solution is to rinse a few times
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Now I'm confused too. I used to tumble dry my old jacket, but when it lost all its waterproofing, I was told that that happened because I tumbled it. So now I go for the radiator drape. I also thought one could use normal detergent provided that it was non-bio, as bio would also strip the waterproofing. In any case I wash everything in Nikwax now - but sarep says that should be for shells only! So what can I safely wash a lined and padded jacket in without waterproofing the lining?!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I was lead to believe that the wash in re-proffers wont effect jackets with linings as the water produced by sweating is a vapour. Paramo jackets are lined and specificly say to use wash in Nixwax.
Personally i use soap flakes to clean and the nixwax wash in to reproof and drip dry, never had any problems (yet).
Just washing stuff at the mo after a trip to Andorra last week , stuff not really dirty but stinks of cigarettes, They allow smoking inside bars still, Yuk.
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daehwons, the special washes that are made for goretex type products are designed to rinse clean more easily.... if folks use other detergents they really need to run extra rinses (my machine was a miele and I could set this IIRC otherwise rerun rinse cycle a couple of times)... hence why the goretex care sheets used to say use plain powder detergent not soap or liquid detergent etc...
The best wash I found for goretex was "sportwash" that came in an orange bottle...
vetski, depends on the type of waterproofing... goretex is different from some other products in the way it works and how the "waterproofing" responds - one of my friends destryed a jacket thinking the waterproofing was "same as goretex" when it was not... she washed it and after 2 wash/tumble dry cycles it leaked liek a sieve...
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Iron all waterproof coatings on low heat if you can't tumble dry. The heat brings the coating back up from in the fibre to outside the fabric where it is needed. All breathable fabrics rely on a coating. Grangers is my weapon of choice for anything with a coating.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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We just shove our stuff in a normal wash (a 'normal wash' being a more-or-less random temperature with any old detergent shoved in).
So far, nobody has died, although I did get a wet bum at Milton Keynes recently.
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From the gore website... so I guess their latest version (at one stage I had 3 different leaflets all published by them)
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Washing Instructions
GORE-TEX® products are not only built to last, they're easy to take care of, too. Routine care and maintenance on your part will ensure the highest performance from them and extend their useful lifespan.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommended care instructions - typically found on an inside tag - and your GORE-TEX® products will be ready to go when you are.
Click below for specific care and washing instructions:
GORE-TEX® OUTERWEAR
WASH
Machine-wash warm (104° F/40° C). Powder or liquid detergent. No fabric softener. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
DRY CLEAN
If professionally dry-cleaned, request clear distilled solvent rinse and spray repellent. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
IRON
Steam-iron warm, placing a towel or cloth between the garment and the iron. No need to iron the garment until it is completely dry.
BLEACH
No chlorine bleach. It may damage your garment.
DRY
Tumble-dry warm. The heat from the dryer will help to reactivate the durable water repellent (DWR) treatment on your garment's outer fabric.
WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT
Gore recommends applying a topical water repellency restorative (DWR treatment) for outdoor fabrics, available at your local outdoor retailer. We do not recommend wash-in treatments as they can affect the garment's breathability.
STAIN REMOVAL
Use a pre-wash treatment such as Shout® or Spray 'n Wash®, following its manufacturer's instructions. Rinse well. |
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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You don't have to reproof your gear after every time you wash it, only as & when required (assuming you wash it with the Nikwax Techwash or Graingers equivalent). You can buy 5 litre packs of Techwash on t'net, doesn't have to work out expensive.
If you wash your gear with ordinary washing powder you will f**k up the waterproofing, and will have to reproof, although perhaps not with Goretex looking at the post above...?
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FAQ
I didn't think about waterproofing 
. Will a thorough spray of scoth guard do the trick now 