 Poster: A snowHead
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I have done a search and looked back through some old threads, also looked at spyderjon's website (and watched his demo at the EoSB) but I'm still not getting it..... Help please
Mr HL bought me a dakine mini edge tuner tool (http://www.dakine.com/ski/accessories/tuning/mini-edge-tuner/) for christmas. There are 2 angles on the tool, 88 & 90 degrees, both of which are meaningless to me. Jon wrote down that I have a base edge angle of 0.5 and side edge angle of 2 degrees. I can see how one holds the tool but just can't figure out which side of the tool is for the base and which is for the sides.
Question 1: Which side of the edge tool = 2 degrees?
I'm not about to start tuning at home, and it may be this tool is too aggresive for what I want - I just want to keep the side edges clean - get rid of dings if necessary but mainly get rid of the rust spots before I give them a slick with notwax or similar.
Question 2: is this tool ok for that? How likely am I to wreck the edges?
Question 3: Dumb question - does the angle that is stamped on the actual tool mean that that side is the stated angle regardless of which way round the file goes in (I thnk it is...)
Question 4: Is it ok to use, say, a light emery paper to get the rust off? I'm nervous about damaging the angle if I use the file.
Question 5: How often would one use this tool? (edited to pick up waveslider's question below)
any other advice gratefully received.
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Fri 26-12-08 19:44; edited 2 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Question 1: Which side of the edge tool = 2 degrees?
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Don't know that particular tool, but I can answer this one, it's the 88 degrees - i.e. 2 degrees off 90.
Edit: Hmmm. I just realised that's probably not what you're asking, is it?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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jonm, that's exactly what I'm asking, ta
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I have a similar gadget that I bought form spyderjon, It has been very successful at keeping the edges of several pairs of skis sharp. Mine has a little wheel that runs on the base of the ski. This, I believe, keeps the side edges at what they should be. It is long past time I used the words "I am no expert" in this post, but I suspect that your Dakine gadget offers 2 degrees as a kind of default as that is what most in-resort machines cut every ski to regardless of the original angle.
Looking at the picture on the Dakine website, it looks to me as if you run the grooved bit along the bottom of the ski and it perks up the side edges. It is very hard to do much with the base edges unless you are grinding the bases as you cannot get to them, so forget about that! you really don't need to touch them in day-to-day or even week-to-week use.
Just repeating the words "I'm no expert" in case anyone is going to shoot me down!
As far as rust spots or even little "dings" are concerned, my routine is this. The tiny file in the edge gadget will soon wear out of you are using it for moving noticeable marks, so I tend to use a thing called a "gummi-stone" for this kind of work. That is a kind of emery mounted on a hard sponge. Do a gentle clean-up with one of these (or even emery, I suppose) before a few strokes with the edging tool. It will not take a lot to brighten up your edges, and you will really feel the benefit.
After that, a hot wax and your skis will be purring.
If you have a 2 degree edge angle then you seem to have the right tool for your skis.
Hope this helps. It was all picked up from one of spyderjon's, legendary Nottingham tutorials, but I might be getting details wrong.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I've seen the Dakine tool you have, I too am interested in how it's used,
Also how often would you run this tool over your skis - every couple of days? weeks?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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holidayloverxx,
If your side edges are 88, then that tool will be ok...2 deg and 88 depends which way you look at it..
That assumes you want the combined angle to be 90 degrees.
Base angles might typically be from 0.5 or 1... which amounts to a bevelled base from the flat of the skis base..
I have an edge tool that runs off the base ..which you need to keep steady and it goes down to 85. My edges are 0.5 and 1.
The 0.5 might well go if I put them into a shop ...
Most files only go one way so make sure you adhere to that. You can put a smaller diamond file in the edge tool for a finer tune if you like...this is the tool for dings mostly.
You'll likely to upset your edges, if you don't have a firm surface to run you edge tune from...
Use the tool for deburring every other day....or as and when you can feel them
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| holidayloverxx wrote: |
Question 1: Which side of the edge tool = 2 degrees?
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The side that holds the file. The broad side rides on the base.
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- get rid of dings if necessary but mainly get rid of the rust spots before I give them a slick with notwax or similar.
Question 2: is this tool ok for that? How likely am I to wreck the edges?
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Gummi for rust.
File to reshape edges.
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Question 3: Dumb question - does the angle that is stamped on the actual tool mean that that side is the stated angle regardless of which way round the file goes in (I thnk it is...)
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Yes. The angle is defined by the two halves of the tool.
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Question 4: Is it ok to use, say, a light emery paper to get the rust off? I'm nervous about damaging the angle if I use the file.
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You are more likely to damage the plastic, and to round off the sharp edge, than damage the angle. Use light, very light pressure, about what you'd use for a sticking key in a keyboard.
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Question 5: How often would one use this tool? (edited to pick up waveslider's question below)
any other advice gratefully received. |
Every time you feel the edges aren't sharp enough.
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JT, Doh - that makes sense; I've just worked out that 2 off the 90 degree right angle is 88  (didn't connect the "90" was a right angle, I think I was thinking some weird kind of decimal - parts of 100). Thanks for the advice, I have figured out the file only goes one way - now need to sort a firm surface I think.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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comprex, thanks to you too - feel happier about it now. Since I posted I remembered the gummi thing - tomorrow's purchase 
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holidayloverxx, you don't really need a firm surface, just a steady hand on the skis, a steady hand on the file, and something to get the binding brakes out of the way.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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JT, spyderjon did a service earlier this year and wrote the angles down - I'm confident of the angles... and indeed the torque test on my din proved that the bindings were releasing at 6+ rather than the 5 on the setting 
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Out of curiosity, what skis are you on that came with 0.5 base?
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You know it makes sense.
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comprex, Burnin' luv (2006) [edit (or 2005)]
Last edited by You know it makes sense. on Fri 26-12-08 23:38; edited 1 time in total
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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comprex,
Movement say they have some models at 0.5
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Poster: A snowHead
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Ok, that makes sense. The orange ones.
JT, I can understand that on some models, where the shovel is soft enough and wide enough to make for the smooth progressive engagement rob@rar mentions elsewhere, .5 provides a better feel of security than greater angles.
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