 Poster: A snowHead
|
Your poles should be of such a length that you are not bending too much at the waist. Too short and you will be bent over too far, and too long will leave you too upright. The standard test for poles will give you roughly what pole length you need, witihin about 5cms, as the test is usually done on flat ground in a non skiing postion. So a standard test of result 125cm will need between 125cm and 130cm most likely.
| Quote: |
I would also have thought that longer poles in moguls are a recipe for disaster:- you want to be fully extended when in the trough but then fairly compressed at the peak, to keep a level path for the hips, but you plant on the peak so the pole is effectively longer than "normal" anyway.
|
For bumps, the pole length is about 90/100cm, and you should be aiming to plant on the downhill face of the bump in the top quarter, not on the peak. Think 'stab and punch' to keep driving the hands forwards, and it almost becomes like walking the poles down the bumps 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
| Quote: |
as the test is usually done on flat ground in a non skiing postion
|
? not in a skiing position
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
skimottaret, we are dangerously close to writing about fsa's pole quiver.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
I'll post a pic of mine later. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
| Quote: |
you should be aiming to plant on the downhill face of the bump in the top quarter, not on the peak.
|
oooo controversial !!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
veeeight, that sounds right to me the faster you go the fruther away from you you should plant. slow speed front of bump med ium top and zip line aim for downhill side.
but i am rubbish and could be talkin bollux
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Go n re-read your Ron Lemaster book! 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
jbob, what's with this thinking business?
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
|
skimottaret, wasn't he just blatting the falline in the valley between the bumps and planting wherever his poles hit the ground?
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
Mosha Marc, looked to me he was planting mostly on the downhill side of the bumps when running the rut line.
have a look at moguleskiing dot net where they clearly say that planting on the downhill side of moguls is the "correct" method
http://www.mogulskiing.net/technique_guide_10.html
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Mosha Marc wrote: |
| skimottaret, wasn't he just blatting the falline in the valley between the bumps and planting wherever his poles hit the ground? |
Yep
See, the thing is, as I'm sure I've said before, instructors discussing pole planting is akin to chefs discussing the best way to make risotto.
For every reference that you find where they advocate planting on the downhill face, I can find one advocating planting before the crest.
http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/skiing/354
Remember: it's often useful to think of the pole plant as the end of a turn, as the trigger to change edges. Where that might end up as you ski the bumps you can work out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
-
-
Last edited by You know it makes sense. on Thu 16-10-08 18:43; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
skimottaret, the answer is whether or not you intend to generate/use torque from the pole plant, so in Moseley's run in the video above, he's pretty much braquague-ing straight down the fall line, as opposed to engaging his edges to execute an edged turn in the bumps, so no need to have an oblique pole plant, plus freestyle mogus skiers want to avoid that shoulder wrenching move as they have less time for recovery.
Technical bump skiers who perform a more rounded turn shape in the bumps will want to use an oblique or blocking pole plant, so aim for the uphill face of the bump to plant.
So, the answer uphill/downhill pole plant depends on what the objective is in the first place.
Watch that vid I posted in the other place, on the PSIA thread. It might help?
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Thu 16-10-08 19:36; edited 2 times in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
veeeight, it just depressed me knowing how much i need to improve....
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
| Quote: |
plus freestyle mogus skiers want to avoid that shoulder wrenching move as they have less time for recovery.
|
Surely every one would rather not have a shoulder wrenching move when skiing the bumps! If you ski the bumps in the fall-line at a decent speed, pole planting BEFORE the crest will be painful.
skimottaret, On your BASI course you will most likely be skiing the rut line of the bumps, rather than 'around' them. They are looking for near constant ski/snow connection, control, not collapsing at the waist and keeping your arms forward. IMO if you plant before the crest you will find it harder to keep your arms forwards as the bump will want to push you backwards, this then puts you in the back seat and onwards to a lack of control.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
but, like i said before i am cr*p in bumps so shouldnt really get involved in this as my pole plants are more survival mechanisms... over and out 