 Poster: A snowHead
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I am looking for a binding (not too elaborate or expensive but that does the job) for the Movement Gladiator skis.
Any recommendations?
What are the Movement Freeski bindings like?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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the movement bindings seem to be a mix of rebadged Vist and Look/Rossi bindings. both are pretty decent (although I wouldn't go for the lower DIN range Look/Rossi ones)
you could save yourself a bit of money and keep an eye on ebay for some salomon 997 equipes (DIN to 14). they come up fairly regularly, rarely cost more than £25 and are at least as good as Salomon's current offerings
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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GordonFreeman, as Arno said the Movement bindings are either Vist's Free binding which is are an all metal race design or Look/Rossi. I've some Movement badged Vist's available at the right price so I'll PM you.
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So, any of:
salomon 997 equipe
Look
Movement
all DIN at least 12?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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GordonFreeman, Have you got your boots sorted yet? If not make sure that whatever you select either has sufficient internal adjustment or is suitably mounted so as accept a smaller smaller shell size.
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Nah, I'm gonna get some new ones. I should have gone to the sales really but less choice.
The guy recommended I go up a level in performance boot compared to the Xwave 8's
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GordonFreeman, always listen to the guy. Listen to Arno/
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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What do you need to mount bindings by the way, just the heel and toe, do they come with the plate or is that up to the fitter?
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GordonFreeman, the pro tools are:
- mounting jig for make/model of binding
- 3.6 x 9mm binding drill for non metal layer skis
- 4.1 x 9mm binding drill for metal layer skis
- 12AB tap for tapping metal layer skis
- chisel
- countersink tool
- waterproof wood glue
- torque screwdriver with a no.3 pozi bit
or if you know what you're doing you can do it with as little as a no.3 pozi driver, pencil, steel rule, 5/32 drill & the wood glue.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Right, the jig, does that come with the binding or do all pros stock them?
Just interested you see...I'm not gonna do this myself ever.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Here's a typical jig in use. The special binding drill bit has a shoulder on it to act as a depth stop although they can often need shimming on thin skis, especially for the rearmost heel piece screws.
Jigs are bought from the binding manufacturers at between £70-£90 each & each manufacturer usually has 4-5 jigs to install their full range so it can be a sizeable investment. The jigs have spring loaded clamps that self-centre down the middle of the ski but the fore/aft positioning on the ski is done by the tech. Jigs for flat mounted bindings will be adjustable for different boot lengths & one jig often has multiple holes for different binding models or rail lengths etc so it's a good idea to mask off the holes that aren't required to avoid inadvertent drilling.
A few models of bindings come with a paper template, the Marker Duke for example, but with some basic measuring/setting-out skills it's pretty easy to 'free mount' (ie no jig) any binding.
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Oh and one last thought...a mine of information here 
You can change bindings in future as long as the new drill holes are either the same or not too close?
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You know it makes sense.
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Is the 5/32 (4 mm) drill a wood bit, or just a standard bit? Is it not a little larger than necessary for the non-metal skis? 9 mm is presumably the depth to drill down.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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GordonFreeman, correct, normally 10mm between holes or a helicoil insert [like a ski rawlplug] is required
beequin, if you were using a normal bit then HSS 9mm is the depth, for the sake of around £25 get it done by a pro
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Poster: A snowHead
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Yup, like Gordon, I was just interested.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Get some Salomon Z bindinds (Z10s should be enough), fantastic and a big improvement from the old driver toe piece.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Depending on how heavy you are etc.. and your general preferred din I would avoid the Z10's. Am I right in thinking the max din on them is 10?
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GordonFreeman,
Get Dukes or Barrons... and you'll have all your future plans covered
Maybe the Zoo can give us a price for 2 pr...
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Yep, thats why thay are called the Z10. I'm a pretty advanced skier (BASI qualified instructor with quite a few full seasons teaching behind me) and pretty agressive and I only ski on 9.5 (the recommended DIN). A DIN range of up to 10 is normally enough for most skiers unless you are on an ego trip (or looking to shred your knees). Always follow the recommended DIN setting....if you change it and it goes pear shaped you've got no comeback.
The feedback you get from the Z binding is pretty spot on, I was very pleased with them when I first tested them on the SIGB test.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Basoid, Not on an ego trip myself at 8.5.. I just feel better if my din isn't at the very bottom or the very top of the range-don't know if there are any mechanical implications if this is the case...
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Arv, you make a fair point, and I have up sold a lot of bindings over the years on that very basis. To be honest if the top end is 10, the top end really is 10. I used to have S810s on my 1080s and never had a problem with the DIN settings, the wings however was a different story, constantly comeng loose and you always notice on a lift with no tools (not snowbladers) at the top. To be fair Salomon did keep replacing them f.o.c.
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What are Look PX12's like?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Good bindings: quite heavy, some people like the feel of the click in, it is different to other bindings, less positive than (some) Salomon for instance, allegedly the way the heal piece can be pulled up eases putting your ski (back) on in powder. Can't be used with Alpine Treckers / Securifix.
You'll get some smart a$$ will tell you there safer for you knees but they're not - the generation before, P12s, had a turntable heal which allows for a slightly different lateral release. Safer? Not really, other bindings just rely on an AFD - Anti Friction Device. Even Look have removed the turntable 'technology' and only have AFDs now, P12s & P14s still had an AFD. Even the PX15 and PX18, so called 'race bindings', no longer have turntable heals, just all metal parts and higher DINs.
The old P series have lots of fans and any incarnation of the turntable heals with high DIN are a highly prized possession if you have ego issues. Always worth looking out for are Look TT 9.0s which are max 14 DIN turntable heal, cheap & very smooth release, basically a cheaper version of FKS15s (Re-badged Rossi binders) / P15s but max 14 DIN with plastic toes.
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Ohhh and another thing... there was a kid on here that insisted that P1X JIB bindings were specifically designed for jibbing, they weren't...
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| Basoid wrote: |
| Get some Salomon Z bindinds (Z10s should be enough), fantastic and a big improvement from the old driver toe piece. |
Why do you think this? There were some issues with the single toe wing screw on some models but the ones with dual adjustment are fine. I noted on another thread that Salomon's race stock bindings (the 916/920) pretty much haven't changed since the 997 Equipe, if not before. I wonder why they don't use the improved Z toe piece? Marketing and cost-cutting requirements often make companies come up with 'improved' new-looking designs for their retail kit so it looks like they're at the fore-front of design and this year's binding is x times better than the pair you had on your old ski.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| parlor wrote: |
| The old P series have lots of fans and any incarnation of the turntable heals with high DIN are a highly prized possession if you have ego issues. |
gah rumbled! 3 pairs sitting in my attic 
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| Quote: |
parlor wrote:
The old P series have lots of fans and any incarnation of the turntable heals with high DIN are a highly prized possession if you have ego issues.
gah rumbled! 3 pairs sitting in my attic
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Me tpo... specially a pair of Forza (I think) in eye-watering day-glo.
GordonFreeman, Don't think you'll go far wrong with any of them..
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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[quote="ski"]
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GordonFreeman, Don't think you'll go far wrong with any of them.. |
True.
ARen't the ones that lift slightly higher off the ski though better for edging...especially on a wider ski?
Also, how wide should the brakes be for a 92mm ski?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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[quote="GordonFreeman"]
| ski wrote: |
| Quote: |
GordonFreeman, Don't think you'll go far wrong with any of them.. |
True.
ARen't the ones that lift slightly higher off the ski though better for edging...especially on a wider ski?
Also, how wide should the brakes be for a 92mm ski? |
Binding lifters and plates are most usually found on slalom or carving skis. Improves achievable carving angles and stops "boot out".
Brakes do need to be wider than the ski to clear the edges, most mfrs of top end bindings will offer a choice of brake width. For a 92, probably a 100mm brake will do the trick.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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parlor, new in box FKS15 or P18s with no brakes but otherwise good nick - open to offers 
on brake widths, i'd generally go for slightly smaller than slightly bigger - for a 92mm ski, i'd be more happy with 90mm brakes than 100mm ones on the basis that it's easier to bend brakes wider - not that having too-wide brakes is a massive issue for off piste really
GordonFreeman, stacking up your bindings is for racers/extreeeeeme carvers, not such a great idea for soft snow skiing
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| Basoid wrote: |
| Get some Salomon Z bindinds (Z10s should be enough), fantastic and a big improvement from the old driver toe piece. |
Yeah, it's not like people are still hunting down S916s or Z10/12 toes and heels have a bad habit of exploding...
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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To me, the Z toe looks like remade quadrax with the three bolt fixing. Could be wrong..
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| johnDUB wrote: |
| To me, the Z toe looks like remade quadrax with the three bolt fixing. Could be wrong.. |
Nope, that's pretty much what they are.
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Got summat right!
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FAQ
