 Poster: A snowHead
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Holiday dates: March 15th to 22nd
Carrier: BMI: delayed on both outward and inward journeys (1 hour and 2.5 hours). An early check-in on the outward trip of 03.25 hrs for an 06.25 flight ended up with check-in opening at 04.15 which was a tad annoying, especially with no info available! Food served was breakfast – standard airline fayre, palatable. Clearly the TO’s stated baggage limitation of 15kgs seemed to be totally ignored by most travellers and there were no apparent charges made for anyone in breach of the limit.
Destination airport was Bergamo: It took 15 minutes from aircraft departure to passport control and baggage reclaim to TO coach!! Is this a record? The return wasn’t too bad either!! Bergamo 2, Gatwick 0.
Transfer times: A whopping 4.5 hours from Bergamo!! Worth it given the skiing there this year IMHO. Something to consider if one has a young family. Invariably the return means leaving in the middle of the night – 3 am in our case!!
Hotel: The Baita Cuisini: A 2* hotel situated outside the town. This is a family run business, hotel is a little dated internally, but exceptionally clean and tidy. It has a comfortable, relaxed atmosphere. The service was excellent - the 4-course evening meal was both superb and plentiful and something to really look forward to. Breakfast was standard continental, but with a good choice and always fresh fruit. The bedroom we had was a double of decent size with plenty of cupboard and storage space. The en-suite, although with shower, was also of a good size. Some rooms have a balcony. I’d definitely recommend the place in spite of it being a bus ride into town – the bus stop is almost directly outside the hotel. Within a 5 minute walk of a main ski lift. There is a heated ski and boot room.
The resort: Livigno is situated at 1820m and is spread along the length of a valley with 2 un-linked ski areas on either side of the town. To facilitate ease of access around the resort and to link one ski area to the other there is colour coded bus system (Yellow, Blue, Red). The buses run about every 15 minutes and are free with the ski pass. It is worth familiarising oneself with the routes early on, although the service is pretty straightforward. There seemed to be a reasonable, though not hectic a nightlife, although personally we preferred the company of our fellow guests and the bar of our hotel. The one night we did venture out we headed to Mikey’s Bar, with its choice of stairs or slide to gain access!! Great fun, good music and directions to the loo are “up the stairs, down the slide, turn left – repeat as often as required”.
Terrain: Mostly easy blues at resort level and wide, cruisy reds above. There are a few blacks and some off-piste opportunities. This is not the most challenging resort – good for 2+ week beginners and strong intermediates looking for fast “carving” pistes. There is a notable 7km blue that offers great views, some mixed terrain and confidence building skiing, though note that access to the quickest assent is via a short (250m), fairly steep, wide red. Personally, I think that the gap from the short, resort level “blue” (there are no greens in Livigno) slopes where beginner lessons take place, to the terrain above the town where one would expect to progress to is a little large. The majority of the higher pistes are red and most of the 1-3 week beginners I spoke to struggled to cope as they progressed from the much less challenging beginner slopes. Over all, the 115kms of piste are enough to occupy the majority of recreational skiers, are very well prepared and looked after. There is some variety and the lift system ensures good deployment, although the “ancient” Motolino bubble can get congested in the mornings with its 20 min journey to the summit.
Against the background of my requirements (advanced, but not fully off-piste proficient) and the SO (3 weeks beginner, technically OK requiring confidence), Livigno scored a big plus. The snow was stunning, terrain suited both abilities and enabled us to spend some time skiing together, albeit at different speeds!!
Ski Hire: Plenty of accessible options – typically €45 for standard carvers, €75 for good. I went for superior at €109. These were this season new, Salomon X-Wing 10s. I haven’t come across them before, so had no idea whether the “superior” badge was appropriate.
Skis: Salomon X-Wing 10 @ 162cms. Recommended by the proprieter as an excellent on-piste ski with some off-piste capability. I usually ski 167/168, owing to height/weight/experience so had a little trepidation at dropping length. Very, very quickly dispelled. These are super-grippy, confidence-giving on-piste carvers. Not too heavy, but reasonably rigid. They handled fresh powder really well and some limited off-piste (more later). They were also recommended for handling the late afternoon crud and chopped up stuff. Quite rightly – again, they cut through it all, no problem. I pushed them as hard as I could in a variety of conditions and will be looking out for them again (if I don’t buy a pair!!).
The Lesson: The day Tuesday: The aim was to take advantage of the recent snow-fall (Sunday) and have a two hour, off-piste session to improve all-round experience/ability. Stated to the booking clerk that I was an experienced, mainly on-piste skier with some GS competition experience (all trueish)
At 9 am I met up with Simon (Simone). He’s probably mid 20’s, speaks excellent English and is obviously physically fit. At 44 and quite obviously physically unfit, I prepare for 2 hours of blood, sweat and tears.
We start on one of the beginner blues, taking the button the 300m or so to the top to “assess my ability”. Simon (a current ski racer – more later) skis down first having left instructions to follow once he’d reached the bottom. I duly comply, carving 5/6 turns before reaching the end. Simon looks reasonably impressed, greeting my arrival with a sincere “that was very good”. He points out the one thing that I seem to constantly need to sort out – a tendency to not get my downhill leg “into” the mountain enough and a subsequent back bottom leaning out! We repeat the exercise. This time greeted with a high five and “excellent, that really is very good”. Beaming smile from me and from that point the lesson emphasis changed.
As mentioned, this was supposed to be an off-piste lesson and circumstances which included a failure of communication from the booking clerk to the instructor, precipitated a rather different outcome and experience.
Earlier, I mentioned that the Motolino bubble is on the old side and on the slow side. This gave Simon and I the chance to have a chat. Usual stuff, where we were from, how long we’d been skiing (me 6 years, him from 6 years), that kind of common stuff. About halfway up, it became apparent that Simon was a ski racer, but had damaged his knee earlier in the season, so was instructing whilst it repaired (he was qualified, I understand). So I kinda mentioned that I’d done a bit of GS competition skiing whilst on one or two skiing holidays (true), and then in the same breath asked if there was one in Livigno. “Yes, it’s on Thursday at 2.00, lift 23”. And then the killer “you ski very well, why don’t you enter?” As if I needed much prompting!!
So that was it. All thoughts out of the window regarding off-piste, this was now going to be about building up to the local, weekly GS race!
We headed off the summit towards some quieter reds, with challenging cambers and risers to test balance, control, sinew etc. Each time Simon would ski off, looking impressively professional, then waive me down. Each time the thumbs up and a high five accompanied by a look of genuine impression. After 4 fast and furious runs the comments were “perfect balance over your skis”, “excellent upper body position”, “this is an easy lesson for me, there is not much I think I can teach you”, “correct pole position”, “you ski very well, very fast”. At this point the “blood, sweat and tears” I was so concerned about diminished on a waive of euphoria.
Soon, chairlift rides were spent in easy comradeship. Instructor: “what’s the capacity of your backpack reservoir?” Dutch guy next to me responds “is it full of Gin & Tonic?”, “No, Vino Bianco” I say, “3 litres of Italian white wine…….?” from the Dutchman. We all laugh.
Next, a straight fall-line run down a short red in the tuck, only spotting a riser rather late. The momentum has the skis off the snow, and me beginning to straighten up, and get into the back seat. Manage to squash down and throw myself forwards, thus avoiding loss of control. “Just like Herman Maier” I hear as I skid to a stop. “Yeah but I bet Hermain Maier doesn’t go phhhaaarrrp, like that!!” More laughter.
Another winding, undulating red. Legs now burning. Two skiers carving down the mountain in harmony, leaving identical tramlines in our wake. Does it get any better? Possibly, but it can also quickly get worse as the fitness levels begin to tell. In fact, after 1 hour and 30 mins, I ashamedly admit that the tank was almost on empty. In spite of this being a second week’s skiing and in spite of the exercise taken every day for the last 10 weeks!!
We headed for a black (only one of 3 or 4 in the resort). And skied off the side for some off-piste (finally). By now enjoyment was borderline with survival – that area where just getting down solely occupies one’s thoughts. Still, new things are learned and we head off back to where we started for the final 20 minutes of the lesson. But no, the legs have other ideas!! That tank suddenly feels in negative territory. And I slump to the ground in an ungainly manner. Simon asks if he has “killed me”. I say “yes”, I’m f*@!**g f*@!*d”, please have the last 15 minutes on me. He laughs, and we shake hands, but the eyes say “you might ski very well, and fast in the right position, but the difference, even with a damaged knee, is that I could do it all day” “Ciao!!” As I slope off to the bar for a large beer under the sun and a reflection of a great morning and some encouraging comments, and turn thoughts to Thursday.
Fast forward: Thursday, 2.00pm.
Feeling more than a bit nervous (same feeling that, as a lad, I used to get before a 200m race at any one of the numerous athletics meets I’d attend).
With race bib on and a start number of 91, I await my GS run. Into the hut, get into the start position, poles the other side of the starting wand, deep, regular breathing. A nervous glance at the start controller. 3-2-1 and I’m off. Bloody mid afternoon snow, low-level snow cannon-like stuff, scrapped off in places, not so easy to get an edge in.
Going well on the top section, remembering some past advice to initiate the next turn roughly midway between each gate. Brushing past each gate trying to keep as “straight” a line as possible. Lower down, gates are tight and one requires a particularly tight turn on some hardpack and traverse almost back up the piste. Skidded that one a bit and scrubbed some speed, but managed the next turn OK, before pushing for home and crossing the line, adrenaline still pumping, heart still pounding, smile ever broadening.
17th place of 48 of mostly local skiers. 39 seconds. The winning time was 32. A country mile by comparison with the professionals, but still way ahead of much of our particular field. I analyse my race, running through the descent. Yes, I could have skied more dynamically or aggressively, but I think finishing was more of a motive on reflection. Disappointed? Not really. I’m a 1 or 2 weeks a year skier with 15 weeks under my belt. I get skiing I think. How skis work, what needs to be done to make them respond. Mostly it’s an instinctive feeling now. Like getting into a car and driving, or riding a bike perhaps.
The “official” photo that each racer had taken halfway down the course was duly purchased and looking at it, the position, whilst obviously not “Herman Maier”, certainly looks decent enough and I’m happy with the fact that at a less than fighting fit 44, there may well be some good skiing to be had in the old legs yet!
Livigno addendum: In our hotel, the SO and I have made friends with a younger couple. He is an experienced, stylish skier. She a newbie. They clearly want to ski together, but the reality is some way off. The SO (good style, unmatched by confidence all the time) and I offer to ski with them on Wednesday for the morning on the short beginner blues at resort level, and to then see about going up to the mountains proper. She’s had lessons, but is not coping brilliantly. “Could I help?” I enthusiastically offer. “Yes please”. So we spent the morning talking about how skis are designed to work and the stages involved in how to input the right movement to make them work. It seems to work and progression occurs and confidence builds. She has a good position over her skis and we practice turn initiation, step by step, correcting shoulder over rotation, even getting into some carving. By the afternoon we’ve skied a long blue, a narrow, chopped up track and some slushy snow. By Friday pm, we’re skiing reds around the resort, all four of us and enjoying the experience. A tad cautiously for two of our “group”, but together for sure – not something that looked likely a few days beforehand. In a few years I may be looking over my shoulder – not something I mind as someone else happily converts to this exhilarating, frustrating and hugely enjoyable activity.
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Wed 16-04-08 18:40; edited 1 time in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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excellent write up mark, glad you enjoyed it so much.....how i love livigno!
hannah
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Mark Hunter, sounds like a great trip. Top marks to Bergamo airport from us too. The week we signed for our Serre Che apartment, we also stayed for a night in Bergamo. We were checking in to our hotel in the city centre within half an hour of landing. We even had a decent lunch in the airport on the return flight.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Mark Hunter, Excellent report, and congratulations on your race place 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Thanks for a top report and well done for the GS. Show us the photo from the race? 
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Sounds brilliant. Well written report, thanks.
This is just the kind of resort I'm looking for for next year.
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Got a text from a mate in Livigno this week. Said he shagged the ski instructor last night, said it was the best lesson ever!!! Respect!!!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| Mark Hunter wrote: |
| rob@rar, frustratingly they only supplied hard copies and when I asked if they could email the digital image, I got a sharp intake of breath and a no, we can't do that...sorry! Odd, I'd have thought people would willingly pay a bit more. |
It's stupid when they say that isn't it. Makes me mad.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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hi you were in Livgno smae time as us we were on the on time Manchester flight. was you hotel at the bottom of the resort? if so you were probably on our coach back to the airport, we stayed at Casa Longa apts and were picked up first, my daughter and i were front seat, we only did one more pick up at the bisttom of resort, the scottish guy was the rep.
will be gong again maybe next year feb halfterm or maybe 2010.
had a great time and cheap too
geoff
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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oh yes Andy!!!!!! supposed to visit our apts 17:00-18:00, but came at 18:30?????
we came back to pick up about 6 cases, there were only 2 pick ups .
we really enjoyed our week, daughter age 12 and myself 44 (not skied for 19 years)
by Thursday i convinced daughter she should come up Costaccia with me to ski the long blue runs, shame it was so cold though, and Friday her instructor took them up Mottolino. She was well chuffed at the level of skiing she has attained in her first week. Our Apt was just above lower Livgno next to the bowling bar Cronix, and very close to Marios restaurant (recommend the steaks in there).
we managed our whole week including spends/skis/lift pass/skischool(daughter) for £1400, so missus at home was well happy
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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cockerhoop, we're looking returning in Jan 2009 - £302 HB, flights + transfer. Will this time be taking 16 year old son and 8 year old daughter and really looking forward to skiing with them both as haven't managed to for a few years.
I did a trip to La Plagne 2 years ago with 6 blokes, staying in an apartment. A truly memorable time, though the owners may well have needed the fumigators in afterwards 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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might go half board ourselves next time
what is typical evening menu, i notice some of the hotels/restaurants were advertising 3 or 4 course tiurist menu, is that a typical half board meal?
thats a good deal booking early
we got £265 for the apt this year and booked 7 weeks before departure.
Geoff
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Typically the starter would involve a trip to the salad bar (usually a hot veg option), second dish pasta, third a meat course and then dessert. Often there were seconds of the second course inspite of the hotel being full. Wine was decent and around 11€ a bottle.
We couldn't fault the quality of the food, nor the quantity - and I have a large appetite, as my waistline will testify!
I did have a look at a couple of sites for an SC option but, with the marginal difference in price, I reckon we'll be back at the Baita.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Mark Hunter, Lovely write up. Thanks for the time and trouble.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Thanks FtS
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Mark Hunter, loved the report.. helped pass a few more mins at work... sounds like you had a brilliant time and what a cool experience too! Nice one!
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ski-finder, thanks. It's good fun - I've done a few now and aim to do a few more.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Excellent report thank you. We went to Livignio over ten years ago. Quite enjoyed the resort but the transfer time and consequent early start means we decided not to go back. There are too many resorts as good and better that have much easier transfers for me.
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FAQ
not quite a 13' dump though....
