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What to look out for when buying skis

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I have a pair of Atomic c-6 skis and have noticed that the tips and tails are not as wide as other carver skis. Does this make a difference to skiing/turning Here are the figures on the skis 160 long ....101-64-88 (not sure what this figure means _ is it the side cut and if so what is the sidecut).. I ski on piste only blues and reds and the occasional black at a push. I'm 5ft 9 and weigh 11st 8. Ski one to two weeks a year. My skis are lighter than most, is this a good or bad thing. Basically I'm thinking of replacing them but not sure what to look for any help appreciated
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I'd say work out what turns you want to do, then go for the turn radius you fancy according to ability level.
I have two pairs: All mountain 20 m and de-tuned 3V slalom at 14 m. One goes fast in a straight line and does good medium to long turns, other does short to medium and is effortless to ski when tired out.
I like salomon gear as it's given me best results.
Hope that helps.
My oppinion on light ski's is they ski good on groomed, but falter in crud and mixed conditions.
My all mountain xscreams, though old are heavy ish and motor through owt. The only time I really scared myself was on the M1 on cairngorm on boiler plate with piste basher grooves in. Hmmm scary lairy that was.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
hi kendublin, the sidecut is the measurement at tip-waist-tail and yup it will make a difference! the tighter (roughtly speaking) the sidecut the tighter the turn the ski will naturally do, thus a modern slalom / piste carver will have a very tight sidecut, eg heads magnums are something like 120-71-116 i think? however there are many other factors to take into consideration, such as the flex of the ski (soft vs stiff) and your own skiier style (mincer vs superhero!)...from my point of view the thing to do is get out there and try a few, what works for an aggressive 18stone seasonaire (is there such a thing??) wont work for a weedy 8 stone timid housewife (aahh, sorry about the generalisation there!) if you catch my drift.

changing to a modern piste ski will help you progress (IMO) but only if you want to, i know plenty out there who are quite happy to potter about the piste no worries, but it will be a little different to your c-6's!

doc

ps a fine example is that johnDUB likes the salomon gear, me personally would touch it with a 10ft bargepole! see what i mean, theres no solid answer!!!!
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My first ski's were Head 200cm ski shop bargains in a complete kit. I swapped em for K2's from S&R. Rubbish.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Kendublin, If I were going to have a one ski quiver, I'd probably go with a midfat, something around 80 in the waist, with a TR somewhere in the mid/high teens.
Since I have the opportunity to have a quiver, I have one carver with a waist in the mid 60's and a short(SL) TR, a midfat(8Cool with a TR in the mid teens, another midfat (94) with a TR in the low 20's, and a Fat Soft Bro (99) with a TR of 32M. Then there is the bump ski 69 in the waist with a TR in the low teens.

See? Something for evertyhing!
Well, except I could use a GS Ski. rolling eyes

That is what I look for, depending on what I want to do with the ski.
Sl
Midfat all mountain
Bump,
Big mountain/powder
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 You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
Kendublin wrote:
....101-64-88 (not sure what this figure means _ is it the side cut and if so what is the sidecut)..


The figures are the width of the ski at it's tip, middle and tail. The variation in width is the sidecut and the greater the variation the smaller the turn radius.
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