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De-tuning skis

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Most shops if they service your skis and sharpen your edges de-tune the edges near each end (ie blunt them slightly).
This makes sense for skiers that skid their turns a bit, but should good skiers ask shops not to do it?
This thought was provoked by the fact that my new Missions carved on icy pistes quite beautifully, but after a while were not gripping as well. I thought a service would deal with it but they still weren't holding as well on icy slopes. Is that just the magic of a brand-new ski or could it be detuning by the shop?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
i believe modern skis should be sharp tip to tail. I don't blunt my missions...

cheers,

greg
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
No, this was only in the days pre carver. I'm sure spyderjon will be along soon to advise the merits of a 'good' service or even the benefits and satisfaction of DIY
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Actually depending on the type of ski I think it can be beneficial to have the edges prepared differently along the length of the ski. On a freeride ski you want a little bit of 'wash-out' towards the tip and tail to enable easier pivoting and sliding, and to prevent the ski from hooking up in powder. I've always asked for this to be done at ski shops, and when I had my tuning lesson with spyderjon he confirmed that he does the same thing. It was brought home to me recently when I had my Gotamas serviced by a shop who didn't do it and I found it very difficult to ski in the bumps and variables and had to take a rock to the edges and do a little DIY on mountain tuning.

I think it is a balance between the conditions, the type of ski and what you are skiing. It makes sense that a ski that holds an edge well on hard icy pistes will be more difficult to slide and pivot around
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
gsb, wink

snowball, With modern carving skis there’s no longer any need to detune the tips & tails of the ski. Detuned carving skis won’t hold the described turning arc of the ski. With proper bevel, footbeds & knee alignment your skis will perform better if sharp the entire running length. If you do find your skis a bit too ‘hooky’, rather than detuning (ie blunting) the end 100/200mm of the tip which was common on old straight skis it’s better to slightly increase the base edge angle over about 25-50mm around the contact point at the tip. The contact point is were the base edge, side edge & the snow meet. This allows the edge to engage more progressively (& less aggressively) but still gives full length hold.

Unfortunately many stores routinely detune both brand new skis & during a service because they don't know any better rolling eyes. So yes, if you're having a shop tune tell them not to detune the tips'n'tails. If they've already been done then there's not a lot you can do about it without removing quite a bit of material.

The only time I detune very slightly is when I tune skis for a couple of very gnarly freeriders/ski mountaineers who are on 190+cm very wide skis & often get in to 'turn or die' situations. I tune these guy's skis with a 3 degree side edge for 450mm underfoot, blending to 2 degrees for the next 450mm each way then the last 100mm each way for 1 degree. Base edge is 1 degree full length but is increased to 1.5 for about 80mm each end with a touch of detune. These guys are doing jump turns on 50 degree slopes & do not want to catch an edge.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
Thanks spyderjon (& everyone else).
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Quote:

The only time I detune very slightly is when I tune skis for a couple of very gnarly freeriders/ski mountaineers who are on 190+cm very wide skis & often get in to 'turn or die' situations. I tune these guy's skis with a 3 degree side edge for 450mm underfoot, blending to 2 degrees for the next 450mm each way then the last 100mm each way for 1 degree. Base edge is 1 degree full length but is increased to 1.5 for about 80mm each end with a touch of detune. These guys are doing jump turns on 50 degree slopes & do not want to catch an edge.

It's OK spyderjon, you can mention me by name if you want wink
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
BGA, these are guys that land their hucks wink
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