 Poster: A snowHead
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| spyderjon wrote: |
| Most people have a strong turn side & a weak turn side but this is often associated with range of movement. Bindings are there to protect ligaments/bones etc so are they stronger on one side than the other? |
As far as I know the difference is only in muscle strength and co-ordination, like most folk I'd guess. Any preferred binding difference is maybe better justified by rating the right side as a very slightly more 'aggresive' skier than the left 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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So with burrs on the toe/heal lugs, do people dress them occasionally with a knife ?
Until I have really started to pay attention to the boot/bindings I never considered walking on concrete/tarmac
much of a problem. Now I try to avoid, I have considered those cat track things but I only get away for 1-3 weeks
a year so I haven't been sure if there are worth the hassle.
The thickness of the lugs on my boots haven't suffered too much but the sole/edges are a little cut up.
Cheers
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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taemo, I think Cat Tracks are great. They obviously save wear to your boot sole, but the other benefit is walking on most surfaces becomes easier.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I was disappointed with Cat Tracks, not for their performance but for their usability and longevity. There seems to be a very narrow window between them being so tight that you rupture yourself putting them on and them stretching to become so loose that they fall off. They are irritatingly bulky to cart around now that I no longer use a back pack. I vote for finding somewhere near the lift to leave walking boots during the day.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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balernoStu, I found out recently when getting a pro bootfitting that normally I was 70% weighted on my left side. It is now corrected to ~ 50/50 but it was eye opening. Their view was this was due to flexibility especially around the hip.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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richmond, i found the trick with Cat Tracks is to loop them through the boots 'power' strap and then pull trousers over the top , keeps them out of the way and not noticeable when skiing, know what you mean about the slackness tho ... have a look for them next time in resort as ones i have bought abroad seem to be more robust.
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I normally put my bindings at 8.5 but had knee problems and have been told I have only part of my ACL on the right. I put the right ski down to 8 but it came off a few times on forward release, so I put the heel on 8.5 and the toe on 8. I don't know what the actual interaction effect (if any) is on the working of the bindings. I take it fromspyderjon's disaproval that there must be some or there would be nothing wrong with having them at different settings if you felt you were (in relation to others) much stronger at resisting a forward than a twisting force. All my ski losses when I don't want them are forward releases but people saying they should be set the same has prevented me setting the heels higher. spyderjon, can you enlighten me?
PS I'm 74 kg and, in English terms, an expert skier.
My new skis have touring bindings, does this make any difference to the answers?
Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Fri 8-02-08 18:16; edited 1 time in total
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| spyderjon wrote: |
......the DIN release values are standard across all binding manufacturers & the toe/heel values should be the same. The only time I ever set them differently on client's skis is:
- after electronic torque testing has showed that the actual release value on the tested toe or heel piece is different to that indicated on the scale. I then adjust the setting until the binding releases at thecorrect torque. The idea here is to get the toe & heel pieces to release at the same value
- if my client requests it if they have an injury/weakness etc that they want to protect, ie a weak knee which may require a slightly lower setting on the toe piece or a calf/achilles injury that may require a slightly lower heel piece...... |
snowball I think your situation is covered in my earlier post.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Partly, yes, (thank you) but is there any reason, in terms of interative effect between toe and heel, against setting at different levels?
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snowball, There is but to be honest I don't know to what extent. All I can tell you is what I've been told by the manufacturer's & that is that the DIN standard/system is based upon the same settings for both toe & heel, apart from the two exceptions I've given above.
Theoretically the toe piece looks after the rotational release & vertical release is from the heel, however most toe pieces have some in-built vertical release function & a few heel pieces (ie some Tyrolia models & the famous Look/Rossi pivot heel design which ceased production a couple of years ago) so there is obviously some interactive effect but the manufacturers don't publish to what extent. I can't actually torque release test these pivotting heel designs on my machine asthe pivotting heel screws with the results & gives a release torque figure at the toe a couple of DIN below what it is in actuality as the pivotting heel obviously 'absorbs' some of the force.
What the manufacturers do say is that this is the reason why the forward pressure adjustment is crucial as the binding's actual release torques are based on this being correctly set.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I know how to adjust normal bindings but my new bindings are actually Fritschi freeride X touring bindings. I've not dealt with touring bindings before. I have not yet adjusted the toes yet. The din reading seems to be on the bar between toe and heel. Is the adjusting screw the one on top of the toe or on the front? I couldn't tighten the front one much, and not much if anything changed. But I think the top one adjusts other things (?). Perhaps I just need a better screwdriver - my good ones are at my studio...
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| snowball wrote: |
| I know how to adjust normal bindings but my new bindings are actually Fritschi freeride X touring bindings. I've not dealt with touring bindings before. I have not yet adjusted the toes yet. The din reading seems to be on the bar between toe and heel. Is the adjusting screw the one on top of the toe or on the front? I couldn't tighten the front one much, and not much if anything changed. But I think the top one adjusts other things (?). Perhaps I just need a better screwdriver - my good ones are at my studio... |
Sounds like you need to read the instructions!
IIRC on Fritschi's there's din settings for both the toe & heel pieces, toe height adjustment (to 0.5mm clearance), boot length adjustment (etched on the bar) along the bar & the forward pressure screw is in the end of the bar (screw head to be flush with end of bar when boots installed & only adjust with the boot out then re-check). All straight forward enough but all need to be done correctly.
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You know it makes sense.
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snowball, The one on top is for the toe height not the Din. This is the one horizontal under the toe piece.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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snowball, what spyderjon and plectrum said. The one on the top is toe height, the toe DIN is the horizontal one accessed from the front (below the hinge), the boot length/forward pressure is the horizontal one in the end of the bar, and the heel DIN is vertical on the heel-piece, accessible/visible only when the heelpiece in in the boot-inserted position.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Anyone know where I can get a Fritschi Service Manual for a Freeride Pro (e.g. pdf scan)? I've got the user manual, but this doesn't describe the set up of the binding. I know the rudimentaries just from reading forums etc, but it would be nice to have the proper manual to observe any warnings.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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pdatkins, welcome to snowheads.
Look here for all the info you could ever wish for on touring bindings: http://www.wildsnow.com
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FAQ
(the tech she rented the skis with totally inappropriate length bindings on subsequently got a well deserved rocket), and once to me last year when a demo ski with incorrectly adjusted rental bindings fell off on the way down from LDA into St Christophe on a 40 degree slope, just as I was getting into some nice turns 
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