 Poster: A snowHead
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Evenin' all!
Ive just "acquired" a pair of 175 twin tips from True Snowsports........ http://www.truesnowboards.com/p_sv.php
Been skiing for about 8 years but never invested in gear..until now! So, i have the skis, i have the boots, now i need some form of connection between the two. Having ruled out gaffa tape i suppose bindings are the only other option.
Im only planning on getting out to the real stuff for a couple of weeks a year, the rest of the time going to Castleford Xscape a couple of times a month, so dont want to spend a fortune. I suppose im at intermediate level--parallel turning and can usually cruise down the red runs. Ideally after an all-rounder setup, mostly piste but venturing into the park when theres no-one around to laugh at me.
Heres what ive ascertained so far. Correct me if im wrong:
Most bindings will accept any boot
Din setting for someone like me would be in the region of 6.5
The difference between cheap bindings and more costly ones are determined by how "new" the model is and how successfully they can adapt to a specific style of skiing
The position of the binding on the ski is dependent of the style of skiing.
Any corrections?
Any suggestions?
Cheers
T
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Evenin TomTom!
| TomTom wrote: |
Heres what ive ascertained so far. Correct me if im wrong:
Most bindings will accept any boot |
Correct. Normal alpine ski bindings are designed to accept normal alpine ski boots.
| TomTom wrote: |
Din setting for someone like me would be in the region of 6.5 |
Unable to answer, without knowing more information, but 6.5 could be right.
| TomTom wrote: |
| The difference between cheap bindings and more costly ones are determined by how "new" the model is and how successfully they can adapt to a specific style of skiing |
Incorrect. Types of materials used (titanium is more expensive than plastic) and the release setting (DIN of 20 will probably cost you more than one that goes to  have a lot to do with it. Age has little to do with it, as manufacturers bring out indemnity lists every year, and if the binding isn't on the list, the shop really shouldn't sell it any more.
| TomTom wrote: |
The position of the binding on the ski is dependent of the style of skiing.
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True (ish). Skiing in a terrain park is easier (so I'm told) if the binding is centrally mounted on the ski. Most other skiing the binding will be mounted towards the back. There have been debates on here in the past about where to mount bindings.
Hope that helps (I also hope that it's mostly correct!)
As for bindings to go for, I'm a fan of Rossi/Look bindings.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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TomTom, hi there & welcome to snowHeads.
The majority of piste skis come c/w rail mounted bindings so there's no real choice. For flat skis there isn't really a bad binding on the market although as Foxy says the quality of materials varies with the higher models having better durability etc. So, for example, you can by a 4-12 DIN range binding that's mostly plastic & you can buy a 4-12 binding that's virtually all alloy/titanium for a lot more money. If you're looking at a lower cost model & you're a heavy guy (or girl) check the weight range that the bindings designed for as too light a construction with a heavy user will put undue strain on the construction. I mount a lot of bindings & it amazes me the number of people who spend hours testing/deciding on which ski to buy & them get the cheapest bindings they can find without any thought as to whether they'll meet their requirements. I once refused to mount a pair of low end plastic bindings for use by a big guy who I knew was a very good/fast/aggressive skier even though they matched his DIN requirments but he was 20kg over their design range. If you're of lighter weight or aren't looking to huck cliffs or spend time in the park then you can buy a very functional but inexpensive binding.
There are some great online deals from European suppliers & on ebay but bear in mind that you'll have to have the bindings mounted & adjusted to your boots (the industry rate for which is £25) so it may well be better buying from a supplier who'll mount the bindings they offer for free with the proper jig & supply warranty support etc.
Also some designs also have certain release characteristics that might suit certain types of skiing or might make them less suitable for a particular discipline, however this really only applies to expert level skiers.
As Foxy says an alpine binding will accept any alpine boot however flat mounted bindings (ie the toe & heel pieces are screwd seperately/directly to the ski) have to be installed to suit your particular boot length. They then have a limited range of travel (typically 20-30mm) to adjust the forward pressure correctly & will allow for minot changes in boot length.
It's often advised to select a binding that has a DIN range which allowsyou to set your DIN in the middle of the range however modern bindings are pretty consistent throughout their range so this isn't something to be too concerned about. I personnaly use a quality 8-16 binding set on 9 & when torque release tested they're spot on & are waaay more consistent than some low end bindings I've tested that were set in the middle of their range.
Every ski has a recommended mounting position whereby the tech mounts the binding so that the mark on the side of your boot is over the mark on the ski, however this is a designed as a Mr.Average mark which doesn't suit everyone. Your new twin tips will probably have mounting points for specific park use & for all mountain/freeride use.
If you don't mind me doing a bit of pimping I sell VIST bindings which are a mid to high-end race derived range, all of which have a full metal chasis etc & for that reason aren't the cheapest on the market but give high end performance - &, most importantly are available in 32 different colours to match your gear  . I also offer an analysis service to determine your own personal balance/mounting point.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Jeezey Creezy!
I was expecting something along the lines of "yeah,you're pretty much right,just spend a bit of cash", or perhaps even "Damn noobie! Can you not use the search function?!?". Instead i get 2 extended essays with balanced opinions and good advice..... Very novel for an online forum....
Thanks guys, very informative. Having cruised the forum a bit i went to look at Conrad Sports and came across these beauties
http://www.sport-conrad.com/index.asp?disp=artikel&art_nr=72103906
Salomon Z12 TI 07/08. Only trouble is it doesn't give any hint as to their brake width. Had a look at Salomon.com which is...hilarious. Looked at a few other shops selling them but still finding it hard to get the info. 
T
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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TomTom, The Z12 is available with either an 80, 90, 100 or 115mm brake. That one looks like it's the 80mm.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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or you could keep an eye on ebay and pick up some salomon 997 equipes for about £25max - they come up from time to time and many people think that they are better than the current crop of salomon consumer bindings
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