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TR (with pics) - Ecrins ski mountaineering 16-21 April 2007

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Brian's been looking out for this so here it is, the full write up and loads of pics. Enjoy!

I'll put an acknowledgment re photos up front. Some are mine; most are Rupert's (another member of the group) - he's responsible for most of the good ones!

When our guide, Richard Marchant, said, "Come on, it's only 20 meters to the summit," I should have taken this with a pinch of salt.  After all, this was a man who had warmed up for the tour with a two day ascent of the Eigerwand.  After a short snow plod we were confronted with a ridge which required us to do a couple of proper rock climbing moves then scramble (with varying degrees of grace) along an extremely exposed ridge to the summit of Roche Faurio (3730m). The ridge almost felt like it overhung on the northern side.  Thus culminated a typical day of ski mountaineering in the Ecrins.
 
The original plan had been to use the lifts of La Grave to access the Chatelleret Refuge (2232m).  This would have offered plenty of downhill with minimal walking.  The hot weather deprived us of this - we judged that since the lifts didn't open until 9, the south facing slopes above the refuge would be unpleasant at best.  Instead, we elected to drive to La Berarde and approach the refuge from there.  This was a relatively short approach so we filled time by climbing up the beginning of our route for the next day.  This involved some slightly exposed skinning but afforded a pleasant ski down over spring snow.







walking up from La Berarde





S face of La Meije





an interesting gully on day 1
 
A 5am wake-up on the second day set the tune for the rest of the week.  Our objective was to cross the Col de la Casse Desert (3483m) and we left the refuge as quickly as we could with the intention of getting past the initial tricky parts of the ascent before a large CAF group.  We achieved this, although we were mixed up with them by the time we reached the Col.  The whole route was reasonably steep and we alternated between crampons and couteaux. On gaining the col we descended a short way on foot before traversing on skis to the Col de Neiges (3348m) which finally gave access to the Adele Planchard refuge (3169m).







approaching the Col de la Casse Desert



looking back at the col - we put sks on about half way down



walking across from Col de Neiges



Refuge Adele Planchard


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 8-05-07 9:52; edited 2 times in total
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The next day we tackled the Grand Ruine (Pic Maitre, 3728m). This involved a steepish skin, then a climb of 50m or so up a snow gully before gaining the summit ridge, which was relatively tame by this week's standards. The summit provided stunning views in all directions. The ski down was the best of the week. We descended all the way to the Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arene (2077m) via the Glacier Superieur des Agneaux, the Glacier de la Casse Desert and finally the Glacier de la Plate des Agneaux.



leaving Adele Planchard at dawn



summit of Grande Ruine[i]











[i]the ski down.... noice!!!




future project? couloir N col du Roche Faurio
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The refuge was probably the most comfortable of the trip, but all of us were wide awake before our 4am call thanks to some truly monumental snoring on the part of one of our fellow guests. We enjoyed a fairly relaxing pre-dawn skin up a gradually sloping valley towards Col d'Arsine. As the sun strengthened, we replaced skis with crampons and climbed up to the Breche de la Plate des Agneaux. This was at the top of a snow gully of getting on for 200m and was certainly steep enough to make occasional mountaineers such as myself watch our step quite carefully. From here, we skinned up the wonderfully aesthetic north ridge of Pic de Neige Cordier (3614m). A quick scramble allowed Rick, Steve and Rupert to gain the summit. I elected to conserve my energy and enjoy the views towards the Aiguilles d'Arve and the Mont Blanc massif.

The fun was not yet over – the Col Emile Pic (which had been skiable when I had last visited the area) was very corniced and required a 30m abseil then a steep ski down to the Glacier Blanc. We arrived at the Refuge du Glacier Blanc (2542m) after 10 hours on the go and rewarded ourselves with a hearty lunch. Rupert was particularly pleased to see tartiflette on the menu having been deprived of potatoes so far this week!



E face of Pic de Neige Cordier



steepish gully up to Breche de la Plate des Agneaux





in the gully and arriving at the top





N ridge of Pic de N C



at the summit - weird cloud formations in the background making all the mountains look like volcanoes





rapping off Col Emile Pic



looking back up at the col


Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Sun 6-05-07 19:36; edited 3 times in total
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The next day was planned to be the high point of the trip – literally and metaphorically. We planned to tackle the Dome de Neige des Ecrins (4015m). This is a snow peak on the huge rocky fin that is the Barre des Ecrins (4102m). This task was made more challenging because the Refuge des Ecrins (3175m) was closed meaning an extra 600m or so of ascent. An early start saw us up the Glacier Blanc at the foot of the Barre. The route up looked to involve spending a long time under teetering seracs and it was clear that a few had collapsed fairly recently. Although other groups seemed happy to go for it, we decided that the reward didn't merit the risk. Instead, we opted for the Roche Faurio and had a pretty exciting time of it, as you have heard.



dawn light on Barre des Ecrins



those seracs didn't look too clever





on the Roche Faurio with a spectacuar background



heading for the summit - this looks simple enough



ummmm



Shocked



now we just need to get back down...





wheee!





On the final day, we had a choice to make – stick with the original plan and cross the Col du Monetier (3339m) before skiing down to Le Monetier les Bains before getting a taxi back to our cars or heading back up the Glacier Blanc, crossing the Col des Ecrins (3367m) then descending the Glacier Bonne Pierre to La Berarde. We decided to go for the Col du Monetier because none of us were too excited about slogging up the Glacier Blanc again and reports suggested that the slope down from the Col des Ecrins was icey and not much fun.

The Col du Monetier provided its own excitement. A steep to very steep skin led to a short section in crampons. The whole skin had been shaded and as we reached the east-facing Col we were treated to a stunning view over the Brianconnais and Nevache areas bathed in morning sunlight. After sitting at the col while waiting for the snow to soften up we were treated to an interesting ski down with everything from steep bullet-proof snow to bottomless slush. The snow ran out and we walked down forest tracks and green meadows before reaching Le Monetier.



on the way up to Col du Monetier with Pelvoux behind



this was a little exposed



the Col du Monetier



the route down



this was quite steep and icy Sad



the end of the skiing - looking back up from whence we came



in the meadows above le Monetier


Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Sun 6-05-07 19:37; edited 4 times in total
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Arno, very impressive! Cool Cool
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Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Arno,

Great effort, fantastic pics.

Up for a repeat to LG next year..?
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Some fantastic photos there! Hope you can put some forward for next year's calendar!
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Hoppo, most of the good ones weren't taken by me!

JT, i'm organising an Eagles trip to the Oisans so you'd either be very welcome to sign up for that or I am sure we can tack a bit of Snowheads action on at the beginning or the end... or we can just organise our very own trip again. i'm up for it!
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 brian
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Arno, excellent, thanks. Very Happy

I'm up for a La Grave repeat as well.
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> eports suggested that the slope down from the Col des Ecrins was icey and not much fun

A friend of mine was helping skiers on the col when a French woman slid to her death this year. The col has little snow cover with the cables way out of the snow and the slope below is very nasty apparently. My friend had set up a 90 meter rappel down this face but the woman who died had tried skiing the face rather than using the rappel.

Where did you go after the col de Monetier?
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davidof, we just headed down to Le Monetier, had lunch then got a cab back to where we had stashed the cars

brian, glad to be of service
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Fantastic report and photos! snowHead
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That looks fantastic- great report very jealous
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Arno, what stunning pictures. It's so beautiful here. Cool
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Arno, Excellent report and the photos look amazing ! Were you sleeping in tents over night ?
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debbi, no - not that hardcore. we were in mountain refuges which can be a bit basic in terms of bathroom stuff but have catering and beds
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superb effort all round....
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wow !
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Brilliant pictures.

snowHead
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Words fail me .... thanks for the pics and report snowHead
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Arno , excellent report and photos,
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Arno, thanks for taking the time to post the report.

One day! snowHead
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Arno, Great report, and top pics, just a quick one, what is a SERAC?
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Liam, it's a part of a glacier which has become separated from the rest of the glacier - so it's basically a big chunk of ice. occasionally, they fall over under the force of gravity and it's not good to find yourself underneath one!
in his spare time, I believe SMALLZOOKEEPER enjoys serac tipping wink
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Arno, From your picture i doubt it would be nice getting cosy with a serac Shocked
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Nice, Tour de la Meije is high on my "to do list" and the Barre des Ecrins - although may not be great on a board, with that long glacier rolling eyes
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Wonderful! Nice reading. Very nice couloirs to ski. Thanks for posting, you're pictures and the story reminds those places we went ski-touring around Chamonix. Nowadays too much work...
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I just referenced this in another thread and I am going to give it a shameless bump because it finished exactly 1 year ago today and I don't feel I have had my ski mountaineering fix this year Sad
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Arno,
And well worth a bump...!!! Laughing
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good bump JT, Very Happy

Arno, amazing and awe inspiring...
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Brilliant, Arno. I've walked up a few pitches like those (but only 30 mins or so) and wished I'd had crampons on. I don't fancy that bit of rock-climbing - I just HATE climbing on rocks in skiboots - I feel extremely vulnerable. I really must learn some proper rope stuff now we are edging into that area.


Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Mon 21-04-08 11:59; edited 1 time in total
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Arno, Good work on the bump, I missed it the first time. I was reading it going, this can't be right there is MUCH more snow there than that. Beta from la Grave: lifts reopened after three days due to snow / bad weather. 1m plus on wind loaded slopes... I can pick you up from Grenoble...

Aren't you just back form somewhere or is that next weekend?
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I was thinking the same....it's not possible, all the week was snowing and there is tons of snow much now than last year......

But, still, I didn't read it and it's brilliant
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parlor, heading out this weekend. last I heard, Andermatt was the place - we're meeting up with a guide so it's in his hands. anyway, according to some of the usual sources, andermatt is scoring BIG, although it's due to warm up over the weekend
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Arno, sent you an e-mail.
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Arno, I missed it too - fab - good job you don't get vertigo though! This is such a fabulous area. wink wink Very Happy
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Arno, amazing report! Had this been booked for long, or was it a last minute choice because you really lucked out with the weather?!

One day i'd love to get into this, will have to get my skills improved off-piste first though snowHead
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Markus, you could say it was a long time in the planning! i first signed up for a tour in the ecrins for the end of the 03/04 season but managed to rupture my ACL the week before. i got myself fully recovered and when this one came up, i signed up immediately (this would probably be august time). the ecrins is a really wonderful area - totally wild, big mountains, steep slopes, not many people. it provides some of the most serious touring in the alps so it's definitely something to work up to. i was only just fit enough for this trip. i'll probably have to work harder on that aspect next time i go back there
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easiski, the ridge up to the Roche Faurio was one of the most exposed things I have ever been on. the other side from the one with the pic of me climbing up was unbelievably steep and it was hard to judge the distance looking down - partly because you didn't want to spend too much time doing so!
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