![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Poster: A snowHead
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Probably one for spyderjon or other tech types? Apologies if we are retreading old ground
How many teeth per cm do I need to look for in a fine file for base filing i.e. filing down Ptex repairs etc without damaging rest of base? NOT for edge filing.
Thanks
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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fatbob, If you're just removing excess ptex (it's not really that hard, the ptex that is) carefully use a metal scraper.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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fatbob, what gsb said. The closer the angle of the base and scraper is to 90 degrees, the finer the shavings.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You need to Login to know who's really who.
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fatbob, what they said.
A 'mill/milled' file can be used at about 6 teeth per cm (14/15 tpi) but one slip & ya screwed. A 100mm flat surform blade could also be used.
For flattening down base repairs I prefer to use a combination of following, working from the middle of the repair outwards:
- a metal scraper
- a great little yellow plastic handled curved bladed surform (approx 60 x 30mm) for under £2 from B&Q
- a sharp 1" chisel
- medium/fine grade sandpaper
A number of stores sell £19 base rasps &/or £15 base planer's but neither beat the above which cost booger all in comparison.
If you do a lot of base repairs & you want to spend some dosh to obtain waaay better repair retention than is obtained from dripping in a candle then consider something like the lighter fuel powered Base Doc 'soldering iron' tool for properly welding in the repair material.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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fatbob, If you know someone who uses a metal turning lathe they might be able get you a blade from a parting tool. It is made from HHS and extreemly hard and strong. The one I use is about 150mm long and 30mm deep, it also acts as a straight edge for checking the base.
Unlike the Toko metal scraper which bends and can cause the base to become concave, the parting tool is less likley to flex. I sharpen mine when needed on an oilstone and check that it is still true after.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You'll need to Register first of course.
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Kunzmann ref 3316 metal scraper - won't bend when used correctly - £3 - job done!
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