 Poster: A snowHead
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As I've read the various threads I believe I've picked up that skis initially come separate to the clips (the bindings?) which the boots fit into - I hope this is right?. All the skis I've ever hired have come with the bindings already attached and I just naturally assumed, in my naevity that skis came with the clipping mechanism already attached. Would someone like to explain a little about bindings to me? No point in being on a list like this unless I learn something!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Megamum, you can buy skis and bindings separately, but usually you will be offered a "package" of skis and binding, with the bindings already fitted. Anyone buying skis should already have bought boots, so the shop should ask you to bring along your boots so they can set the bindings correctly. They should check your weight and height and ask you about your skiing ability and style. From this they will adjust the bindings to the correct setting for you.
In other words: the bindings come with the skis, and you don't have to worry about them. Just make sure you get your skis serviced at least once a year.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Hi Megamum,
Skis used to always be sold separately (well, almost always) to bindings (correct term!). In recent years manufacturers have been promoting ski binding (and boot) systems. As far as I can tell, this is simply to get you to spend more money and spend it all with them.
For normal alpine skiing all bindings are as good as each other, although some people have preferences, generally based on tiny details. The main manufacturers include: Salomon, Rossignol, Look, Marker, Vist, Atomic, Fischer. You might notice that some brands seem to be very, very similar...
I have a soft spot for VIST as they're new on the scene and for the mid range models you can choose your own colour schemes. This is very very important IMHO.
What is important is that they are properly fitted and adjusted, and that they function properly. Have a technician do this...
On function, the idea is that they keep you attached when you want to be and that they allow you to release from the ski when you want that to happen.
Adjustment is for fit to boot - length, height, etc. using simple screw adjustments - and skier weight, height and aggressiveness by tensioning or releasing springs inside. The tension adjustment is done by working out what standard DIN rating you need (a variety of charts) and then simply tightening or releasing a screw on the toe and heel pieces. This is all best done by a technician (as you will have seen when you have hired them, I hope) and you needn't worry about the details.
You probably want to remember what number you have them set to so 1. you can communicate this to other technicians and 2. should you buy your own skis you can choose a suitable binding. Common rule of thumb is that you want your setting to be around the middle of the range on the binding. Not necessary and most non-race bindings will accomodate most average weights and abilities.
Hope that helps,
David.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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David Murdoch, Don't you just hate it when that happens, just got to the end of typing a remrkably similar post and found I'm beaten to it
Just to add a bit to the discussion. The tendancy in the UK (and Europe?) is very miuch towards ski/binding packages
If you check out some US websites you'll find the opposite is true and if its not an integrated system then ski only is the norm, which explains the apparent bargain prices over there.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Hi both
Yes, whenever I've hired skis the technician has set some screws and has needed my weight, height and skill level to do this. I guess the more aggresively you ski the tighter you need the skis attached to the boots? I didn't think of checking the settings that I had been given, maybe I'll remember next time. I didn't realise the settings would to some extent be transferable between different makes of skis/bindings. As people will know by now I am a very new beginner, I am also quite tall and its probably fair to say do not have super-model proportions! My ski boots were very firmly clipped into the bindings. It was all I could do leaning on the ski poles to trigger the release at the back, sometimes I could free them by using the back end of the opposite ski, but this had certain disadvantages a) if I didn't get it right there was a certain amount of wobble factor and b) I doubt that it is good news for the waxed surface of the ski that you use. Is there any sneaky techniques for springing the release mechanism that I don't know about?
How does the binding attach to the narrow ski? There doesn't seem to be much depth in the ski itself to take a screw fitting or is a fitting mechanism somehow built into the laminate of the ski itself?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Megamum, You ask very sensible questions in a very charming way. These things are not at all obvious when you are starting out!
Aggression does come into it - for at few reasons. As you ski faster you tend to put more force on the bindings so you want them to stay on your feet in more demanding conditions. You also want to avoid the less than helpful phenomenon of "pre-releasing" when your binding decides that it no longer wants to remain a staunch anchor between your boot and ski. If this happens at the wrong moment - ugh.
The settings are named DIN after the standards institute and so theoretically should be perfectly transferable. I don't know just how well calibrated these things are. I tend to ski on an unusually low 6 for my height weight and aspirations, but I like to think I'm quite gentle with my skis. +/- 1 or so is unlikely to make a huge difference IMHO ( - please sign my enclosed waiver of responsibility).
I don't know of any sneaky release mechanism, I almost invariably stand on the release. I don't think I've noticed it damage my skis appreciably. Performing the manouevre with an air of casual insouciance will contribute greatly to your on slope cred.
Bindings are generally screwed in to the top surface. For marketing reasons Salomon insist on offering the expensive "Pilot" system which makes outrageous claims of marvellousness and which get screwed in the side. Frankly, again IMHO, the only person getting screwed there is the poor customer.
But no there isn't a great deal of depth. Several hundred years ago, when I was but a nipper that was because in a bad fall, the screws fixing the bindings only had to withstand the force to stay in place long enough for the skier to break his or her leg. These days the screws typically go through layers of high performance materials (cast iron? polystyrene foam? aged willow?) that help hold them in place.
rich,  can't say I noticed, but I have heard that much of the US is "behind" EU kit trends. E.g. it allegedly took longer for short shaped skis to catch on.
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A lot of bindings have a groove/slot where you can place the tip of your ski pole, lean on it and lift your boot out. This works well but does not look half as cool as when standing on the release mechanism, as David puts it, with an air of insouciance.
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i recently bought a second hand pair of skis off ebay which had a nice looking pair of tyrolia bindings on them. ive now had them fixed on to a new pair of skis but i didnt ask the technician to check them out. is there a test i can do to make sure the bindings are working correctly?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| rizzotherock wrote: |
| i recently bought a second hand pair of skis off ebay which had a nice looking pair of tyrolia bindings on them. ive now had them fixed on to a new pair of skis but i didnt ask the technician to check them out. is there a test i can do to make sure the bindings are working correctly? |
Machines to test bindings are not exactly commonplace but I believe Spyderjon has one - try PMing him.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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rizzotherock, assuming the bindings you've fitted are on the current manufactuers indemnity list, a store tech will be able to do a function check to see if the bindings are functioning correctly.
However, due to the cost of the equipment required (either a torque wrench type of tool or a full blown electronic torque testing machine) it's unlikely that they'll be able to actual torque test the bindings to measure their actual release values, ie if the DIN setting is 7 do the bindings actually release at 7, or say 6 or 8.
admin's right in that I have an electronic torque testing machine (one of only four in the UK I believe) but I think Devon might be a bit far for you.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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www.filarinskis.co.uk Have a binding testing machine I believe. They are in Havant nr Portsmouth which is probably a bit far as well 
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thanks for the advice guys,both towns a bit too far really. maybe i can get them checked out in andorra when i go in january.
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