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Re sealing goretex jacket

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Noticed last year my jacket got soaked through in large patches, I bought the stinking spray stuff from brundl but it didn't seem to help much. Are there places in the UK you can get them cleaned and retreated?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Have you washed it? Goretex ceases to work if it's dirty. So try washing first -- following the care label. If that doesn't work then you can refresh the DWR by using a wash-in reproofer such as TX-Direct.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
yes Rab for one https://rab.equipment/uk/service-centre-products/repairs

but you can do it yourself, wash it first is key https://montane.com/pages/waterproof-aftercare
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kitenski wrote:
yes Rab for one https://rab.equipment/uk/service-centre-products/repairs

but you can do it yourself, wash it first is key https://montane.com/pages/waterproof-aftercare


The jacket is arcteryx, will Rab still do it or just stamp on it? Very Happy
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Wash it, tumble dry it, if that doesn't work use the TX wash in stuff and tumble dry it again. I have used gore-tex jackets for over twenty years (per jacket) climbing, hillwalking and mountaineering and the above is all they have ever needed until they actually disintegrate.
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@ollski2.0, have you washed it at all?
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
https://lancashiresportsrepairs.co.uk/reproofing/
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Re: washing. Yes. Do that.
.... however do it with soap (or tech-wash) rather than detergent

Detergent removes the DWR which gives goretex it's water resistant surface tension. Once clean then jacket can be reproofed and tumble dried.


Last edited by After all it is free Go on u know u want to! on Wed 9-10-24 17:59; edited 1 time in total
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Quote:

Goretex ceases to work if it's dirty.


It makes sense the pores would be blocked so less breathable. I can't really see how it makes it less waterproof which is the problem here.

Doing it yourself with nikwax should help.
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Quote:

I can't really see how it makes it less waterproof which is the problem here.


The water can then permeate it's way through the pores...
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^ dirt (abrasion) removes the DWR repellent over time. Clean it ( with soap!) and reproofing will make a difference.

Grate bar of soap into small pieces then add to the machine in dosing ball. Just as good as tech wash. Then reproof and tumble dry afterwards.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Haggis_Trap wrote:
Re: washing. Yes. Do that.
.... however do it with soap (or tech-wash) rather than detergent

Detergent removes the DWR which gives goretex it's water resistant surface tension. Once clean then jacket can be reproofed and tumble dried.


Goretex itself says to use detergent. https://www.gore-tex.com/en_uk/blog/outdoor-fabric-care-guide-part-1-how-to-wash-gore-tex-apparel

I've washed nearly all my outdoor kit with detergent for decades. Never been a problem.
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
these were very helpful

http://youtube.com/v/F2dRdW3x0UM?si=RFIYUqxlRLw3GI0T

http://youtube.com/v/zYXn3mBJqxI?si=o0fzBIAZO4DPFb9f

http://youtube.com/v/I4N6ZuKTZ_c?si=iTl-N8ppOuqYI0fm

http://youtube.com/v/Ldy0RHehMPc?si=f-e2ybbeR6r4Zt9M
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
How old is it? If less than five years or so contact GoreTex for advice and/or warranty repair or replacement.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
clarky999 wrote:
How old is it? If less than five years or so contact GoreTex for advice and/or warranty repair or replacement.


It's a 3 year old Rush IS
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Odd as the Arc'teryx vid says you can use normal detergent but double rins, whereas most other places say you will burn in hell if you use normal detergent - it has to be soap flakes or specialist wash?
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ster wrote:
Odd as the Arc'teryx vid says you can use normal detergent but double rins, whereas most other places say you will burn in hell if you use normal detergent - it has to be soap flakes or specialist wash?


As I observe above, the fabric manufacturer (Goretex) says detergent, and makes no mention of overpriced FUD based solutions.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@ollski2.0, you are confusing wetting out (carrier fabric getting wet) with"soaked through" I think.

per @RobinS, I also find, over 25 years and multiple branded membrane systems, wash with e.g. Nikwax TechWash, wash in proof with e.g. Nikwax washin proofer, tumble dry if indicated, job done. Techwash and others aren't great at eliminating oily, rubbed in grime, so don't buy white skiwear.
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under a new name wrote:
@ollski2.0, you are confusing wetting out (carrier fabric getting wet) with"soaked through" I think.


I could well be but as I remember when it was new it repelled water and it simply ran off whereas last year the sleeves in particular were stained dark and soaking wet and damp on the inside aswell
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
well, the exterior symptom is what I refer to as wetting out, the interior possibly just humidity from it not breathing as well due to oils build up Puzzled but even a new perfect membrane shell will have humidity inside under exercise.


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Thu 10-10-24 10:45; edited 1 time in total
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@ollski2.0, Those are the symptoms of the fabric "wetting out", the repellent coating is gone so water does not bead up wetting the surface. If the surface is wet it is impossible for the fabric to breathe, so moisture remains inside and condenses on the inside of the fabric. At only three years old, if lightly used I would expect just the tumble drying to rejuvenate it, and the washing and treating process almost certainly will - if not it would be a probably terminal fault in the fabric itself.
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Quote:

Techwash and others aren't great at eliminating oily, rubbed in grime, so don't buy white skiwear.


So with my Paramo stuff, if it gets really grimoy, I was with normal washing powder/liquid, rinse really well and re-proof. Oldest jacket bought in 1996 still going strong, but a bit shabby.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
How do I get away without a tumble drier?, I don't know anyone who has one. Will a low temp iron work or does it need the heat for a prolonged period?
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ollski2.0 wrote:
How do I get away without a tumble drier?, I don't know anyone who has one. Will a low temp iron work or does it need the heat for a prolonged period?


I believe that that a warm iron will work with the traditional hanky in between but careful.

Or find a laundromat/friendly dry cleaner with a tumble drier?
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Thanks all will give it a wash and get to the launderette with it this weekend.
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ollski2.0 wrote:
clarky999 wrote:
How old is it? If less than five years or so contact GoreTex for advice and/or warranty repair or replacement.


It's a 3 year old Rush IS


If you bought it from new you could try Arcteryx direct under their 'Practical Product Lifespan' (for all apparel) warranty. "Arc’teryx Products are designed for long life and durability, if care instructions are followed carefully"
So if you've followed the advice on here (washing properly in the correct detergent / low heat tumble drying / adding spray on proofer to key wear areas) and its still wetting out / performing like a C&A special from 1984 then its definitely worth a shout. They'll either do the above for you (factory DWR treatments are always better than DIY efforts) or maybe you'll get lucky and get a new jacket!

A word of caution - current fluro free spray on treatments are nowhere near as good / long lasting as the previous planet destroying originals; try Diver Daves Repel or even Fabsil Gold (applied in a pressure sprayer). I fish a lot and wear lots of breathable / goretex type fabrics; both of these proofers create far better water beading than anything else and once cleaned I spray everything with it at the outset of a new season (shells / puffas / hats / gloves the lot!)
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Interesting information about DWR treatment

https://blacklabbrands.com/blogs/blog/dwr-textile-finishes-what-are-they-and-what-s-the-difference

The mention of Davethediver further up, he gives reference to C6 liquid in posting available on the web historically. That may have changed if legal position has subsequently shifted.

Interesting too https://www.rudolf-duraner.com.tr/en/products/textile-care/active-ingredients-for-the-formulation-of-household-products/c6-water-oil-soil-repellents/ in comments about detergent etc within descriptors of base product specification.

These appear to be concentration of between 1~5% active ingredient listed on msds data for many. Also some of the most available brands in UK market list naphtha as carrier/application liquid, upto 99%
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Slightly more readable article than MSDS and all the chemical talk...:

https://www.which.co.uk/news/article/pfaspfcs-where-to-shop-to-avoid-the-forever-chemicals-in-waterproof-clothing-a7dhg6Q0RCeO

Article reports (but doesn't source the statement) that C6 DWR compounds are now thought to be just as bad as C8. Most Goretex fabric involves release of the polluting compounds during manufacture, and most Goretex is itself a long-term pollutant unless its the newest ePE variant.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Fact is C6 application simply works more effectively; and requires a whole lot less product / applications to stay effective for longer. Does one application of C6 vs several washes / tumble dryer usage / repeat application of CO liquids damage the environment more in the bigger scheme of things?
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
I struggle to fully appreciate the balance they state in using more of anything too.

The usage scenario are obviously constructed around "typical" but many may be very significantly outside that assumed protocol.

Of course, all the marketing spiel has their solution as the best, making it more or less a non starter for decent judgement foundation.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Agree - its similar to the electric car argument; I blame Ms Thunberg . . . Toofy Grin

Sports brands def jumping on the bandwagon in defence of the planet / greater good / eco sales. Much as I love Kangaroos and their ability to jump and box, premium football boots are no longer made with the stuff and Kangaroo leather has been replaced with some (probably) chemically damaging man made variant that's (according to the brands - Nike/Adidas) much better in terms of performance and our conscience . . . . . . . . .utter twaddle


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Mon 14-10-24 11:10; edited 1 time in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Completely missed from my assessment of upping the treatment of garment at more shortened interval (and mostly in non experienced hands) is the expansion of that whole supply chain and it's viability. Seems none existing existing in their rush to proclaim sustainability of product.

Not clear either is, are people wearing Gortex generally going around shedding copious amount of these danger chemical derived components ? Or is the focus purely on production facilities ?

They must have a very high concentration of ramblers (in example of high risk area within Belgium, noted in @snowdave, link) or other types wearing Gortex etc Toofy Grin
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