Know there is a general thread for MTB's, plus E-MTB's and yet another one for MTB Skills / Technique but for some strange reason I wanted to start yet another MTB thread for bits.
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Thu 17-06-21 8:25; edited 1 time in total
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I'm in agreement with the second video presenter, and use gear oil.
To give scope, riding AM and DH mtb and particularly in winter with the drive components covered in mud, then nothing matches it.
It's mucky and smelly though, certainly doesn't fit some personal views on keeping it clean. But it works to keep the bearings working and chain rust free, ultra slick ratio changes too and very fluid to pedal.
Technically, gear oil uses a sulphur compound to assist load capacity in hypoid gear trains and usually labelled EP for extreme pressure because of that formulation. It's very very good at coping with high load at bearing site without binding or metal spalling (metal to metal pickup) with virtually nil wear too.
For me it out performs anything else I've tried that is readily available.
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
I've been using Squirt for many years now, also the cold weather version for riding in sub zero temps. We use it for road, mtb and gravel bikes, amazing stuff and non toxic. It is also very clean on the chain, no more oily chain marks on clothing etc.
Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Mon 19-07-21 10:58; edited 1 time in total
After all it is free
After all it is free
Scarpa wrote:
I've been using Squirt for many years now, also thte cold weather version for riding in sub zero temps. We use it for road, mtb and gravel bikes, amazing stuff and non toxic. It is also very clean on the chain, no more oily chain marks on clothing etc.
Thanks. Knew there was a "normal" and an "E-MTB" version, didn't know there was a "cold weather" version.
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I just wouldn't be able to cope with the smell of gear oil. It's all about the wonderful experience of the outdoors, and riding what smells like a leaky forklift truck would just ruin everything.
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
It's amusing the marketing element of these "specialised" product, as content is listed for it as paraffin wax, hydrocarbon oil and water.
In effect a "mayonnaise" of oil and wax at an expensive price. Little more than classic 3 in 1 type oil left in the load surfaces after application.
The gear oil specifically has components that work under extreme duress to facilitate not wearing the steel surfaces (thinner and thinner chain use puts the moving bearing surfaces into this area) to avoid increasing friction and subsequent wear.
Completely understand the view related to smell, but for pure technical performance it's likely unmatched in frictional loss.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Do people no longer put their chains on top of the tin of black graphite ritch grease, heat it up on the stove until very hot, lift the chain out and drain the surplus off any more?
I've still got a tin (it's about 250mm in diameter) in the garage somewhere.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
The thing you need to do with Squirt is to thoughly degrease your chain to remove any oil. You can do this without taking the chain off. Then load it up with squirt, it is water based so just evaporates off. I repeat the loading again, then just apply after every 100km or so after the last ride to allow it to dry overnight. I do a lot of alpine climbs and some longer flat rides up to 200km. Changes have always been slick and I get a really long chain life. A big advantage is that there is no oily residue on the chain to attract grit and dust and form a grinding paste.
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Scarpa wrote:
The thing you need to do with Squirt is to thoughly degrease your chain to remove any oil. You can do this without taking the chain off. Then load it up with squirt, it is water based so just evaporates off. I repeat the loading again, then just apply after every 100km or so after the last ride to allow it to dry overnight. I do a lot of alpine climbs and some longer flat rides up to 200km. Changes have always been slick and I get a really long chain life. A big advantage is that there is no oily residue on the chain to attract grit and dust and form a grinding paste.
Same experience here. Even on my old 18.5 kg cheap touring bike, (that I keep saying I will replace one of these decades) after degreasing the chain and applying Squirt the gear changes far better than imagined. One problem is that I often change two gears instead of one because I didn't hear/feel the first gear change. Gear oil may be better for the first few miles/km's (if you can stand the smell) but not after the oil atrracts dust / dirt part way into the first ride.
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
I tend to use a wax / "dry" lube in the summer and a oil / "wet" one in the winter. Find waxes don't last when it is really wet. Is Squirt different?
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@jedster, I've found it fine in wet weather but I haven't tried it in really heavy mud. Just put plenty on and allow to dry fully before use. Oil based lubes can also cause very minor pollution over time at crowded trail centres
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Does anyone understand the identification system for shimano disc brake pads?
I have shimano MT BR 8020 (front)& MT BR 8000 (rear) disc brake calipers.
The pads that the bike came with are D01S Resin (front) and G02A Resin (rear).
Ordered G03S and J03A in the hope that they would fit the front and back but they look to fit the rear only.
Looking at places such as amazon there are all sorts of references for brake pads.
D, G, J, 01 ,02, 03, A, S, resin, organic, semi-metallic, sintered - what's it all about?
It looks like the pads for BR-M810 will also fit the MT BR 8020
@DB it's not that hard, even though they do have "few" pads If you are not sure, easiest thing is to check Shimano specifications (https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-m8000/BR-M8000.html for BR-M8000 for example).
I have BR-M8000 myself, so for those I know which goes (BR-M8020 are 4 piston if I remember right, so no idea about that first hand, but from spec on Shimano web, D01 or D03 and H01 and H03 will fit). For BR-M8000 G02, and J02 fit for sure (these are all organic).
Otherwise Shimano makes it a bit complicated, but once you figure it out, it's quite clear. If I stay with BR-M8000 which I have and know, things are following:
G, J - "shape" of pads - G is standard, J is ice-tech with finns
01, 02, 03 - version. I think 03 is current
A, S, T - material where pad resin is on. A aluminium, S steel, T titanium.
Any combo of this will work for BR-M8000.
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@primoz,
Yep & thanks
As you say G or J work on BR-M8000 (my 2 piston rear brakes).
Have two new sets of G03S and one set of J03A (with fins) for the back.
BR-M8020 are as you say 4 piston
The pads the bike came with are D01S = steel backed, without fins, old version resin.
The fined version looks to be H although there is another version F with fins that looks like it may fit too.
Shimano site says following pads will fit - D01S Resin, D03S Resin, H01A Resin H03A Resin | H03C Metal (suspect C is for sintered)
Ordered D03S and H03A for the fronts. (without and with fins)
Know what will happen though - the next time I need need new pads I either won't remember all this or it will have changed. Then I'll end up buying the wrong pads from tha tinternet, then fettle about with my bike trying to fit incorrect pads with loads of effing and jeffing until I say stuff this and take the bike in bits to the local shop (who happens to be a rep for Shimano). This is fantastic marketing from Shimano and they sell twice as many pads and keep the local bike shop going to boot.
I guess the 4-pot models have different pads to the normal ones. I'm also guessing that the road/gravel (and potentially some uber lightweight XC) versions also differ?
I tend to keep the little bit of card in the packaging to remind me which ones to buy next time, but even then for M785 and M8000, the ones I have installed, the ones on the workbench that I've taken out and the ones in my backpack have every number and letter different.
Last ones I took out were F03C metal, and the spares in my backpack are J02A resin (both are finned), and pretty sure I had one G02 set before.
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DB wrote:
@primoz,
Yep & thanks
As you say G or J work on BR-M8000 (my 2 piston rear brakes).
Have two new sets of G03S and one set of J03A (with fins) for the back.
BR-M8020 are as you say 4 piston
The pads the bike came with are D01S = steel backed, without fins, old version resin.
The fined version looks to be H although there is another version F with fins that looks like it may fit too.
Shimano site says following pads will fit - D01S Resin, D03S Resin, H01A Resin H03A Resin | H03C Metal (suspect C is for sintered)
Ordered D03S and H03A for the fronts. (without and with fins)
Know what will happen though - the next time I need need new pads I either won't remember all this or it will have changed. Then I'll end up buying the wrong pads from tha tinternet, then fettle about with my bike trying to fit incorrect pads with loads of effing and jeffing until I say stuff this and take the bike in bits to the local shop (who happens to be a rep for Shimano). This is fantastic marketing from Shimano and they sell twice as many pads and keep the local bike shop going to boot.
and also note the compatibility with your discs. Some (typically cheaper I assume?) discs are resin-only so if you use metallic pads you'll wear them down super fast.
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
stuarth wrote:
and also note the compatibility with your discs. Some (typically cheaper I assume?) discs are resin-only so if you use metallic pads you'll wear them down super fast.
Yes I‘ll probably use resin pads with cooling fins in the future.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
DB wrote:
We probably should be cleaning the pistons too when we change the pads.
That usually need doing about once a year - you'll notice rubbing when it need to be done.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Mosha Marc wrote:
DB wrote:
We probably should be cleaning the pistons too when we change the pads.
That usually need doing about once a year - you'll notice rubbing when it need to be done.
Yes the bike is 2 years old and the brakes started to rub at the back. I was keeping an eye on the front pads believing they would wear out first but was surprised to see the backs on one side had worn right down (disc is very lightly scoured on one side - hope it will be OK). Already have the replacement rear pads and the front pads come today. The mineral oil comes next wednesday so I can clean it all and get everything in working order. Might pop to the bike shop to see if they will give me a squirt of mineral oil to sort it out today for this weekend.
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Apparently Citroën suspension fluid is the same stuff, been using that on Shimano brakes for years, about€6 for a litre!
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@DB I'm not really sure those finns make much difference, except with the price Sure, I'm riding more or less XC things, so no 1000m of descend with being full on brakes all the time, but for my riding, I honestly didn't really see difference between J02A and G02A, so nowadays I'm on half cheaper G02A
@KenX it's suppose to work yes, but with Shimano, at least for me, I didn't manage to spend 1/4 of Shimano bottle in 6 years. And majority of it went, when I was remounting brakes from one frame to the other last autumn and needed to change brake hoses. Shimano brakes are basically maintenance free, and there's no need for regular bleeds, and with this, even those 15eur/liter original Shimano oil is not that much of investment, when you know it will last pretty much for rest of my life
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@primoz, +1 to the fins, none of my brakes have them......
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
On Amazon.de the normal pads cost €15 a pair, €18 with fins. I thought things with fins / wings gave you more confidence.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@DB I'm normally not buying bike stuff on Amazon, but on either bike-discount or bike24 price difference between G03A and J03A is almost 100%. Around 10 or 11eur for G03A and almost 20 for J03A.
For wings, there's one shitty drink that gives you those... so as they say
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
OK bits turned up earlier than I thought so cleaned pistons and installed new pads. I've never used water to bed in brakes before but it looks to be the "done thing", anyone else use water for this?
Edit : Job done - water worked well, brakes feel much better than before. The brakes don't half squeal with water on them though. Neighbours think I'm barmy riding up and down the road squealing my brakes then putting water on them again then repeat x 10 ...... Suspect the front pads were never bed in properly as the front brake never felt much stronger than the rear in the past or the front brake on my last MTB, but it's much stronger now (4 piston vs 2 piston).
Need to get myself some protection (elbows and knee pads) - any suggestions.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@DB,
I have IXS Carve D3O kneepads and they are pretty good and super comfortable, though the mesh bit at the back gets a bit beaten up if it has a coming together with a pedal!
Had some 661 pads before that which I crash tested a few times, and they worked well They were a bit more prone to slipping than the IXS ones until I got the 661 padded shorts that they can attach to.
I prefer soft elbow pads (again D3O) - probably not as much protection as hard ones but I find them way more comfortable. Main thing I look for is the silicon stuff and adjustable straps so they don't slide about.
Need to get myself some protection (elbows and knee pads) - any suggestions.
I've never bothered, i don't seem to hurt my knees and elbows too much.
a full face helmet may have helped on a couple of occasions, but the pads wouldn't have helped on the times I've injured myself.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Mosha Marc wrote:
DB wrote:
Need to get myself some protection (elbows and knee pads) - any suggestions.
I've never bothered, i don't seem to hurt my knees and elbows too much.
a full face helmet may have helped on a couple of occasions, but the pads wouldn't have helped on the times I've injured myself.
Yeah the only fall I've had this year was through getting the tyre wedged in a divot that I couldn't see (overgrown) and the slight injuries were in places that the knee & elbow pads didn't cover.
Trying to wangle an MTB trip to Lake Garda in October, the guide from the local mountainbike club said I would need the pads - opinions welcome.
Looking at this though I think I'd be better off with a parachute.
Back in't day I went on a summer holiday to Malcesine. The wife was pregnant with our first at the time, so it must have been about 25 years ago
I hired a right old clunker with the idea of riding up Monte Baldo and back to town. No one did uplifts back then. I rode to Torbole and then climbed up to the top of the ridge that Baldo forms part of. Once at the top I realised two things; firstly a map might have been a good idea as the paths weren't too distinct and secondly I'd never ridden at that altitude before.
As I made my way along the ridge I started feeling really dizzy. At one point I had a bit of a sit down to try and get over it, but I just felt so weird. There was no one else around at all, so discretion got the better of valour and I retraced my steps back down. By the time I was halfway down I felt fine again.
Having seen that video, the decent on the bike I'd been given would have been interesting if I'd made it to the cable car.
FAQ
Poster: A snowHead
If you are not sure, easiest thing is to check Shimano specifications (https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-m8000/BR-M8000.html for BR-M8000 for example).
Sure, I'm riding more or less XC things, so no 1000m of descend with being full on brakes all the time, but for my riding, I honestly didn't really see difference between J02A and G02A, so nowadays I'm on half cheaper G02A 
