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MTB Equipment / Technical advancements

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Know there is a general thread for MTB's, plus E-MTB's and yet another one for MTB Skills / Technique but for some strange reason I wanted to start yet another MTB thread for bits.

I'll start with this ....


http://youtube.com/v/2a3HJwRSS_I
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I've just started using a wax lube on my bike chains and up to now am impressed with the results (much cleaner).


http://youtube.com/v/jiugWo_9nBM


This guy reckons gear oil is best.


http://youtube.com/v/VnPYdcbcAe0


Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Thu 17-06-21 8:25; edited 1 time in total
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I'm in agreement with the second video presenter, and use gear oil.

To give scope, riding AM and DH mtb and particularly in winter with the drive components covered in mud, then nothing matches it.

It's mucky and smelly though, certainly doesn't fit some personal views on keeping it clean. But it works to keep the bearings working and chain rust free, ultra slick ratio changes too and very fluid to pedal.

Technically, gear oil uses a sulphur compound to assist load capacity in hypoid gear trains and usually labelled EP for extreme pressure because of that formulation. It's very very good at coping with high load at bearing site without binding or metal spalling (metal to metal pickup) with virtually nil wear too.
For me it out performs anything else I've tried that is readily available.
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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
I'm a big fan of the squirt wax, used it for a couple of mucky winters on my Fatbike, and it's the best I've found by far.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@DB, been using Squirt for a few years, its the best
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 You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
Expensive performance measurement pedals -

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/training/power-meters/garmin-rally-rs200-power-meter-pedals-review/


http://youtube.com/v/Yqm_H6KRx0Y&t=19s



http://youtube.com/v/tz3clPpq9Y0
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
I've been using Squirt for many years now, also the cold weather version for riding in sub zero temps. We use it for road, mtb and gravel bikes, amazing stuff and non toxic. It is also very clean on the chain, no more oily chain marks on clothing etc.


Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Mon 19-07-21 10:58; edited 1 time in total
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Scarpa wrote:
I've been using Squirt for many years now, also thte cold weather version for riding in sub zero temps. We use it for road, mtb and gravel bikes, amazing stuff and non toxic. It is also very clean on the chain, no more oily chain marks on clothing etc.


Thanks. Knew there was a "normal" and an "E-MTB" version, didn't know there was a "cold weather" version.
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
I just wouldn't be able to cope with the smell of gear oil. It's all about the wonderful experience of the outdoors, and riding what smells like a leaky forklift truck would just ruin everything.
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
It's amusing the marketing element of these "specialised" product, as content is listed for it as paraffin wax, hydrocarbon oil and water.

In effect a "mayonnaise" of oil and wax at an expensive price. Little more than classic 3 in 1 type oil left in the load surfaces after application.

The gear oil specifically has components that work under extreme duress to facilitate not wearing the steel surfaces (thinner and thinner chain use puts the moving bearing surfaces into this area) to avoid increasing friction and subsequent wear.

Completely understand the view related to smell, but for pure technical performance it's likely unmatched in frictional loss.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Do people no longer put their chains on top of the tin of black graphite ritch grease, heat it up on the stove until very hot, lift the chain out and drain the surplus off any more?

I've still got a tin (it's about 250mm in diameter) in the garage somewhere.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
The thing you need to do with Squirt is to thoughly degrease your chain to remove any oil. You can do this without taking the chain off. Then load it up with squirt, it is water based so just evaporates off. I repeat the loading again, then just apply after every 100km or so after the last ride to allow it to dry overnight. I do a lot of alpine climbs and some longer flat rides up to 200km. Changes have always been slick and I get a really long chain life. A big advantage is that there is no oily residue on the chain to attract grit and dust and form a grinding paste.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Scarpa wrote:
The thing you need to do with Squirt is to thoughly degrease your chain to remove any oil. You can do this without taking the chain off. Then load it up with squirt, it is water based so just evaporates off. I repeat the loading again, then just apply after every 100km or so after the last ride to allow it to dry overnight. I do a lot of alpine climbs and some longer flat rides up to 200km. Changes have always been slick and I get a really long chain life. A big advantage is that there is no oily residue on the chain to attract grit and dust and form a grinding paste.


Same experience here. Even on my old 18.5 kg cheap touring bike, (that I keep saying I will replace one of these decades) after degreasing the chain and applying Squirt the gear changes far better than imagined. One problem is that I often change two gears instead of one because I didn't hear/feel the first gear change. Gear oil may be better for the first few miles/km's (if you can stand the smell) but not after the oil atrracts dust / dirt part way into the first ride.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
I tend to use a wax / "dry" lube in the summer and a oil / "wet" one in the winter. Find waxes don't last when it is really wet. Is Squirt different?
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@jedster, I've found it fine in wet weather but I haven't tried it in really heavy mud. Just put plenty on and allow to dry fully before use. Oil based lubes can also cause very minor pollution over time at crowded trail centres
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