 Poster: A snowHead
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As a majority intermediate group that cover ground quickly, we generally go for the mega ski areas that offer plenty of miles of piste to keep us busy. Last year the Dolomiti Superski, before that Paradiski and The Three Valleys. The next obvious choice was Ski Arlberg.
Six of us flew from the UK, landed in Innsbruck and took a private transfer to our accommodation at Haus Sattelblick, St Anton. Private transfers take a little over an hour and cost about 200 euro for a 6 seater. On our way home we decided to try out the train, which was a fun experience but one we probably wouldn't bother with again. Direct, fast trains to Innsbruck aren't that regular and the bus from the train station to Innsbruck airport was a bit of a hassle with luggage and no free seats. If you are travelling alone or with a small group, the train makes financial sense at 20 euro pp, larger groups are better off spending the extra few euros for the convenience of a private transfer.
The hotel was fantastic- modern, clean, well located and generally good value relative to other options in town. Although the 10 minute hike uphill was a little arduous on tired legs, it meant that we were away from the noise and bustle while still within walking distance of three lifts. To make life even easier, the hotel provided free gear storage at the base of the Galzigbahn, which meant it was just ourselves that we had to drag home at the end of the day. Haus Sattelblick is only a few years old and looks brand new, it's basic but very clean and well appointed. Every room is big enough for two adults, they have fantastic showers, small but comfy beds, and a balcony that looks directly out on to the Rendl mountain. We paid 1200 euro per twin room for 7 nights and were totally satisfied with our stay.
In my opinion, St Anton itself is only ideal if you're one of those party animals. It has a large town feel that I've not encountered in any other resort, a vibe I'm just not looking for in a ski holiday. Restaurants were packed by 6pm and it felt like a struggle just to get a pizza and a beer on some evenings. We did make reservations for a couple of the fancier eateries- Verwallstube is situated at the top of the Galzigbahn, with the cable car operating only to take patrons up for dinner. The journey up and down made for a unique experience, the food was very good and the service even better. Hotel Tannehof is a family run hotel and restaurant on the Nasserein side of town, they came and picked us up, then dropped us home free of charge. We were told that they offered three menus (al a carte, game and a tasting menu) and everyone of our party would have to pick from the same menu. We thought this a little strange but things got a lot weirder when we arrived and were told that each of our six man party would have to order exactly the same dishes (?!). Apparently, this is normal in Austrian restaurants, but we didn't come across the very odd rule anywhere else and felt that we probably got bamboozled. This turned out not to be an issue for me, the food was delicious and the service very good too. Verwallstube is the clear pick of the two, mostly because everyone can actually order what they want from the menu! Skiing Buddha does a good Thai and Ciao Ciao was decent but overpriced Italian. Hotel Goldenerberg in Oberlech serve great traditional fare on a panoramic sun terrace and the slide down to the extensive wine cellar at Hospiz Alm in St Christoph is worth a go too.
Given the size of the town, it's not surprising that the slopes around St Anton were the busiest that we'd encountered anywhere in Europe. Thanks to advice from Snowheads members, we headed up the Rendl cable car on our first morning, where we found quiet slopes in fantastic condition. However, the area only had enough to keep us busy for a couple of hours, we headed up the Galzigbahn after lunch and that is where the fun started. From 12pm everyday, pretty much all pistes were carved up and packed with skiers. I had never collided with another skier in over 40+ total days on the slopes, but my clean sheet was smudged twice on this trip. These frustrating and at times dangerous conditions would persist throughout the week in the Galzig and Gampen areas. Virtually every piste was open, so the excuse of bottlenecks can't be made, there's simply too many people on the mountain. Mogul/people dodging, coupled with the fact that the area is generally steep and relatively challenging (75% of blues here are reds in other resorts we've visited), meant that our legs were feeling pretty beat up after day two!
The remedy we found for this came in the form of a bus or taxi over to Lech every morning. Skiing over to Lech from St Anton first thing means queuing up for rammed gondolas and skiing on equally rammed pistes. Taking the 7.40am bus means you beat the crowds, stop for a coffee and jump on the lifts as soon as they open. The bus is 5 euro each and the driver accepts cash only. Alternatively, a taxi is about 70 euros. Lech itself is a beautiful town and I would have put more effort in to finding accommodation there had I known how busy St Anton would be in comparison. It is a little pretentious and expensive, but nothing compared to say Courchevel, and in my view it would be well worth spending a little extra to stay there. Stuben, Zurs and Zug all looked a little too small and sleepy for us, but we didn't spend enough time there to say for sure.
Another advantage of getting over to Lech early is that you can then take to two lifts and a gondola, and you're in Warth, where you'll find very lappable reds and blacks to keep you busy all day. We noticed a lot more kids group lessons on the slopes in Warth, something to consider if you're bringing little ones. I say this because the lack of learners in the entire region was very noticeable. I do not recommend bringing beginners here, as mentioned before, this is a place for those that love to power down the pistes or head off them altogether. One member of our group is a backcountry addict and found heaven in the Arlberg. Even though conditions were far from ideal, he managed to find untracked powder and "side piste" fun everyday of our trip.
In conclusion, the Arlberg is a must visit for those intermediate and above who want a real challenge and to earn their tracks. The area lacks the flow and convenience of some of the other fore mentioned mega resorts, but if you're willing to put in some hard graft, you're rewarded handsomely. Ski over to St Anton but stay elsewhere, unless you for some reason prioritise partying over skiing on your ski holiday.
Next year will be a family trip with kids and beginners, so I'm looking for your recommendations for a decent sized area, with village charm and a sub 2 hour airport transfer. Any tips are appreciated!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Have a look at Les Saisies for your trip next year.
(Your description of the skiing in St Anton brought back memories - I've not rushed back.)
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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What dates were you there? Sounds like Fasching week if so crowded.
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The village does get crowded in the evening and finding somewhere to eat especially for a group can be struggle. Pettneu is a good alternative, it is as convenient as much of "St Anton" - St Jakob, Gand, Moos etc, has an old fashioned vibe, has places to eat and a late night bar.
Crowding on the slopes has been a complaint for a while, especially if the Steissbachtal run is closed (as it has been for much of this season). Complete beginners are well catered for, it is the moving on from the bunny slopes that is an issue, "cruisey blues" are not a feature
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I suspect there is a lot more affordable accommodation in Courchevel than in Lech, particularly as there is a big choice of self-catering accommodation, from basic to luxurious.
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Thanks to advice from Snowheads members, we headed up the Rendl cable car on our first morning, where we found quiet slopes in fantastic condition. However, the area only had enough to keep us busy for a couple of hours
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If that means you quickly get bored with skiing the same pistes more than once I suspect the 3 Valleys would suit you better than Les Saisies.
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Not that surprising conclusions on St Anton. Great place for a stag do of intermediate+ skiers.
I would recommend Lech though for a group of kids & beginners. Start on the button lift behind Rufikopf gondola, progress to the Wiebermahd chair (Oberlech gondola then Petersboden chair) which can be lapped then take 210 and 200 back to Oberlech. Download from there since the blue piste directly above Lech is quite steep and moguled by EOD.
Beyond that, 200 then 210 off Kreigerhorn chair is a nice cruisey run, slightly narrow at the top. Ends up back at Wolf bar. 220 to Steinmahder is more of an intermediate blue so would avoid...which is a shame since 235 is another nice, long cruisey blue for an "end of week" confident beginner. Finishing the holiday doing the run from Rufikopf to Zurs (includes a mid-length T-Bar & chair) an ambitious aim but do-able. The top and bottom are a bit steep but done after a few turns. The blues on the other side of Zurs are more intermediate imo.
Otherwise - Wengen? The train from Lauterbrunnen after the drive from Zurich would take it over two hours, but flying to Bern could significantly reduce transfer time if you can find a flight. Pretty, car-free town with great progression slopes for beginners. Apres is limited to a few hotel bars. Sledge run for kids. Not a big resort but decent size when you add in the slopes on the other side of Grindelwald.
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@fox15, interesting thanks for sharing, we've always stayed in Stuben and managed to avoid St Anton madness! what dates were you there?
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| fox15 wrote: |
| Hotel Tannehof is a family run hotel and restaurant on the Nasserein side of town, they came and picked us up, then dropped us home free of charge. We were told that they offered three menus (al a carte, game and a tasting menu) and everyone of our party would have to pick from the same menu. We thought this a little strange but things got a lot weirder when we arrived and were told that each of our six man party would have to order exactly the same dishes (?!). Apparently, this is normal in Austrian restaurants, but we didn't come across the very odd rule anywhere else and felt that we probably got bamboozled. |
This is definitely not normal in Austria. And in fact it is quite strange for such an upmarket hotel and restaurant, and such small group. Sounds like issues with/lack of kitchen-staff...
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| Quote: |
In my opinion, St Anton itself is only ideal if you're one of those party animals
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@fox15, Not true, been sking there for 30+ years and never had any issues. You seem to have had some strange experiences, and must be one hell of a skier if you can ski all Rendl in a couple of hours, it takes me days to get the best from it.
Suggest you do more research before you go, and stick with cruisy blues in French mega resorts and leave St Anton and Arlberg to those who appreciate it.
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I completely agree with @fox15. Way overrated, food awful and full of drunk wannabe Alberto tomba's.... please don't go to st anton. Stick to 3v!
Yes it's not perfect esp home run at end of day but I have had some of my best days skiing ever in arlberg. I like the town, had some good food (never had a poor meal). Nice big public pool for some stretching laps. If you want to go wild at apre there's plenty of that but I am a bit past that now so I usually find a little bar have a night cap and early bed.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@WASHOUT, Exactly, it's a lousy place. 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@Markymark29, aren't you being a bit too harsh? @fox15 's comments are quite balanced, and much is recognized by many. I'd say this is the classic misinterpretation of St.Anton, happening to so many. Who then end up in Lech 
In fact, if you like 3V and Dolomites, then you're often bound NOT to like St.Anton.
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I like the 3v, dolomites infact I haven't been to a ski hill that I don't like inc hills on Scotland.
But I have had some of my best days there and will hopefully be visiting again soon.
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You know it makes sense.
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@Markymark29, assuming you are talking Rendl off piste vs on piste? On piste there ain't much there IMHO.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@kitenski, No worries, personally i'd struggle to do all the pisted runs on Rendl in 2 hours, there's a huge amount to go at imv, Maas, Riffl 1 and 2 and Gampberg both sides of each and all the varied pisted runs between, plus the long run back to town. I could happily ski on Rendl all week and not get bored, especially when the off piste is factored in, but each to their own i'm not going to defend the resort, it thrives and lives off its own reputation. This season, and last haven't particularly been the best, and personally I haven't skied off-piste there since pre-pandemic because conditions haven't allowed when we've been there but the snow pack has been better in St Anton than most places in Europe last 2 seasons I believe, and Rendl imv offers the best snow on most occasions i've skied it compared to much of the rest of the area.
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Poster: A snowHead
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The complaints from regulars is that the place is now too quiet and much of the party reputation is long gone. From recent observation I would say there is some evidence for this in that the clientele is definitely older (myself included  ) and wealthier. Many of the old late night drinking dives are gone. Ski bums will have a hard time these days living cheaply and skiing all day. Finding somewhere to eat can be a pain though some local knowledge helps (you can pretty much always get a spot at Pomodoro for pasta & pizza though the quality is not the highest, there is also the kebab place opposite the Nassereinbahn, I doubt the that "die Bürger" of Lech would allow such places in their village!).
The complaints about crowded pistes are valid and apply to the whole of the Arlberg, though maybe St Anton is the worst and the home runs past the KK & Moose can be particularly bad especially in warmer weather when the snow deteriorates.
All that said there are few other areas that can compete with the Arlberg for the quality and quantity of the skiing, no "green" runs allowed but plenty of lumpy ski routes. 3V / Paradiski it is not, if that style of resort suits you give the Arlberg a miss.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| fox15 wrote: |
| . Restaurants were packed by 6pm and it felt like a struggle just to get a pizza and a beer on some evenings. We did make reservations for a couple of the fancier eateries- |
Our group (of 7) booked restaurants in advance for every night this year when we went to Lech - brilliant. We'll do that every year from now on.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@red 27, Hope you tried Hus Nr8 and Schneggarei, both excellent! Pizzas at Olympia also pretty good.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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First few visits to st anton... it was all about the apre (it was me rolling up the pedestrian zone at 3am wakening everybody up), we never got past where the flexenbahn is built now but the actual skiing was well above my level. Since then the apre has become less important and its all about the skiing. I have spent a lot of money and time to progress my skiing and find the general terrain around St anton is some of the best I have found. I have spent a whole day lapping under the gampenbahn absolutely loving it (vis came in but snow was amazing). Last time there was passing through on way home from utilising the salzburg super ski for a few months rd trip and spent a day there. It was one of the stand out days of that trip. Blasted over to wrath, back to car for 2pm then drove home to UK.
Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Mon 11-03-24 18:01; edited 1 time in total
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@Markymark29, We did indeed try those two places - but not the Olympic
We actually didn't really like Hus 8 that much as the table was a bit cramped and it's essentially a pub so pretty raucous - but it's a unique place and the food is good value and the staff were nice.
Schneggarei was brilliant - lovely building and great atmosphere. It seemed essential to book as there were lots of people getting turned away wanting food - they seem to shut upstairs about 9.00pm. Most of my lot had pizzas which looked OK if you like the thin crust style but I had trout with olive gnocchi and artichoke which was one of the most delicious things I've ever had!
Our other places:
Almhof im Schneider (Glorious! Luxurious dining room and high quality food)
Tannenbergerhof Stubbe (mid-range, spacious, lovely staff)
Lecher Stubbe (Gotthard) basic good value food, great staff / owner
Gasthof Post (luxurious dining room, menu quite basic but nice food. Brilliant staff who liked a laugh)
Krone Stubbe (lovely food - caviar yum yum - and odd things like 1/2 a duck or a whole goose!. I can't actually remember my main there as it was our last night and I was 3 sheets but I do recall that when asking for reading glasses they brought out an amazing little mini chest of drawers with about 20 different styles / strengths. I went for the full Elton in shocking pink. Staff were 'characters' including one poor Heidi who dropped a full tray of glasses adding to the party atmosphere)
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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If your not bothered about the apre, last time I was there I booked 1 night in flirsch at the Gasthof Pension Grissemann. I booked it approx 24 hours before arriving as I was already in zell am ziller. It was approx €80 for a single half board. Breakfast was your traditional austrian and a tasty 3 course evening meal. A pint was less the €5. Bus stop directly outside although I drove as was driving home after coming of the slope.
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| munich_irish wrote: |
The complaints from regulars is that the place is now too quiet and much of the party reputation is long gone. From recent observation I would say there is some evidence for this in that the clientele is definitely older (myself included ) and wealthier. Many of the old late night drinking dives are gone. Ski bums will have a hard time these days living cheaply and skiing all day. Finding somewhere to eat can be a pain though some local knowledge helps (you can pretty much always get a spot at Pomodoro for pasta & pizza though the quality is not the highest, there is also the kebab place opposite the Nassereinbahn, I doubt the that "die Bürger" of Lech would allow such places in their village!).
The complaints about crowded pistes are valid and apply to the whole of the Arlberg, though maybe St Anton is the worst and the home runs past the KK & Moose can be particularly bad especially in warmer weather when the snow deteriorates.
All that said there are few other areas that can compete with the Arlberg for the quality and quantity of the skiing, no "green" runs allowed but plenty of lumpy ski routes. 3V / Paradiski it is not, if that style of resort suits you give the Arlberg a miss. |
The 'Burger Stop' on the Dorfstrasse seems to be the last place of choice for those trying to still live cheaply in St Anton. I've never been there but last year, a very friendly but slightly drunken guy walking up the street was telling me how good his burger was from there.
It's definitely a quieter atmosphere in town than say 20 years ago, some may say it's better, others worse, but for sure it's changed.
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@JohnS4, Forgot about the burger spot as have never really fancied it. The kebab place was doing a really good trade when I walked past last weekend. The Mondscheinstüberl is still going, didnt seem particularly busy (not sure how it copes with no smoking!) and I am past wanting late night beers these days!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Had a "few" midnight munchies out of that burger stop back in the day. Can't really comment on the quality though...
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It's definitely a quieter atmosphere in town than say 20 years ago, some may say it's better, others worse, but for sure it's changed
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Is this linked to the fact that younger people are now drinking significantly less than previous generations?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@Markymark29, really no need for the arsey reply just because the opinion of the OP is different to yours.
Trip reports are great, and often very helpful, replies like this might put people off and that would be a shame.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I'm with @Markymark29,
I honestly don't get this "St Anton party animal" reputation. I've been there a few times including the half-term just gone with family in tow with kids in St Anton ski school at Nasserein. The idea that it's only "ideal" if you're a party animal is just plain ridiculous.
A reputation of awesome off-piste skiing I get and agree with but not the partying thing. It's like any other resort, if you want to party you can find a party, if you don't want a party then don't go to the bars that are partying and chill out elsewhere. Images of wild parties or gangs of drunks stumbling down the streets is just plain wrong.
And about Rendl, the OP clearly doesn't attempt any off-piste skiing, there are some awesome ski routes over there, it's not really about bashing kms of blues and reds.
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| Origen wrote: |
| Quote: |
It's definitely a quieter atmosphere in town than say 20 years ago, some may say it's better, others worse, but for sure it's changed
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Is this linked to the fact that younger people are now drinking significantly less than previous generations? |
The quieter atmosphere is partly down to a deliberate policy of pushing the place upmarket and making it more expensive. This has meant a number of the cheaper purely drinking spots have gone to be replaced by yet more expensive outdoor clothing shops owned by the Alber family. There are still a few spots for those who want to continuing drinking after the wobble down the pistes in the dark from the KK & Moose. The average age of visitors is older than it used to be which also means less partying.
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You know it makes sense.
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i spent some weekends in St. Anton and i didnt find something special as regards as partying etc
I want also with the kids , and it was relativ ok.
Indeed there are not so many places to eat cheap, and their parking system is a crap. It is definitely a place to go without car.
The skiing is for above average skiers , and definitely not the best place for piste skiing. It is not bad, but if you want piste skiing there are better places.
What i dont like as a boarder that there are many spots where i had to take of the binding and "push". And i am not a novice boarder.
Worst for snowboarders is Zürs.
Best place to board-ski for me in Arlberg is Warth and then comes Lech, Stuben then St.Anton and Zürs
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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My review obviously came across as a lot more negative than I intended!
To clarify- we had a brilliant week in the Arlberg. A bluebird day skiing above Lech/Zug was right up there amongst my most memorable on skis, as was our day in Warth.
The food was great, not as good as the Dolomites, but then we weren’t expecting it to be. The party scene was actually a lot tamer than we expected(which I was glad about but others in our group weren’t!).
My only real gripe was with the sheer amount of people on the slopes and in the town of St Anton. No one wants to ski all afternoon on chopped up slopes, dodging others. No one wants to wait in numerous lift queues (something we almost never saw at the other “mega resorts”). And no one wants to hang around waiting for a table in order to eat dinner.
I would love to return to the Arlberg in the future, but certainly not with beginners and I wouldn’t stay in St Anton again. That’s not because I didn’t have an incredible time, but because other towns in the region are more suited to my preferences.
Hope I didn’t ruffle too many feathers! Every intermediate+ skier who enjoys a challenge should visit at least once in their life!
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Poster: A snowHead
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@fox15, OP your review was excellent.
There are always a few birds on here whose feathers are easily ruffled
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| fox15 wrote: |
My review obviously came across as a lot more negative than I intended!
To clarify- we had a brilliant week in the Arlberg. A bluebird day skiing above Lech/Zug was right up there amongst my most memorable on skis, as was our day in Warth.
The food was great, not as good as the Dolomites, but then we weren’t expecting it to be. The party scene was actually a lot tamer than we expected(which I was glad about but others in our group weren’t!).
My only real gripe was with the sheer amount of people on the slopes and in the town of St Anton. No one wants to ski all afternoon on chopped up slopes, dodging others. No one wants to wait in numerous lift queues (something we almost never saw at the other “mega resorts”). And no one wants to hang around waiting for a table in order to eat dinner.
I would love to return to the Arlberg in the future, but certainly not with beginners and I wouldn’t stay in St Anton again. That’s not because I didn’t have an incredible time, but because other towns in the region are more suited to my preferences.
Hope I didn’t ruffle too many feathers! Every intermediate+ skier who enjoys a challenge should visit at least once in their life! |
i always had goot time also.
But i used to go to Arlberg because the kids till 8 Y old do not need to pay for a card, and we have the golden moments card , meaning from 11.00 am we pay 1/2 Day.
Althoug i like St. Anton as a ski town , i do not know if i will go again. The price/value ratio does not worth it, if you do not want to go off piste.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@fox15, It's good to get balanced views, I didn't see any issue with your review.
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FAQ
