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Vallandry Christmas 2023 (yet another Boris' report)

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
In the run up to our Christmas Trip, I was amusing myself by re-reading my previous reports. Hey, it beats doing any work in the last days before Xmas Break. As such, I thought (yet) another trip report was in order, with a few updates, as that beats doing any work in the first days back Laughing

2019 was the last time I wrote a report, A-Level year for the boys and GCSE year for daughter. Although maybe not ideal time to be away, boys both graduated with a 2:1 in Sport and Exercise Science from University of Bath and daughter is in 3rd Year at York University studying Sociology.



This trip, we were also joined by Miss B’s boyfriend (BF), who has been lured into the joys of skiing, having had his first trip in March this year.



As always, the plan was to drive down, as we find this by far the easiest mode of transport. Particularly with all our skis, plus it gives us the opportunity to shop in the valley as we self-cater. One of the boys was already in Europe, let’s call him M, and was meeting us in resort. I appreciate many of you follow his exploits in “The Bar” and on Strava, but for those who aren’t aware, he is currently training and racing with British Biathlon squad.



The day before travel was more stressful than it needed to be, with the French staff at Tunnel Operating company staging a wildcat strike. As a Plan B we purchased a ferry crossing just in case, however thankfully the strike was resolved and Le Shuttle crossings resumed. Madeye-Smiley

An early start saw us into France by 10am and burning up those very dull northern France miles to Reims and on down to Troyes. The traffic gods smiled on us and we reached our overnight stop in Macon early afternoon, allowing plenty of time for drink or two in the bar. While we always do the return journey in one-hit, much prefer a more relaxed start to the holiday and to build in time in case of a delay.



Anticipating manic traffic, we were on the road by 6am, however encountered very little traffic and were in Aime by 10am, to do our weekly shop, and in resort by 11:30am. As we couldn’t get into accommodation, we found other boy and went for lunch. After which myself and other boy, let’s say D, went for an afternoon ski to get our ski-legs back.



With the BF taking lessons, it was a bit manic first thing Sunday to get ready and get him into resort. Far more of a rush than we are used to! Once we made sure he knew where to go etc, we decided he was old enough to get himself there for rest of the week. Rest of day was a fairly relaxed cruise around Vallandry area, taking in the various runs off Derby. Snow was in good condition and it wasn’t overly crowded.



Being Christmas Eve, we finished a little earlier and wondered into the village to see Santa and the other activities, before returning to chalet and having a very nice (Even though I say so myself) Tartiflette.




Christmas Day snowHead, lovely to be in the mountains and to have a white Christmas, but in reality just another day in the Alps. Rather than returning to chalet for lunch, we had a little snack out (which, due to an ordering error, turned out to be enormous), so we had a few more runs than planend in the afternoon to build up an appetite for Xmas Dinner.



Despite those pesky Brexit restrictions, we took cold turkey and ham with us (cooked for our fake Christmas dinner at home), fully accepting that they may be confiscated if seen, all things considered we had a very nice meal.





Tuesday we headed into Arc bowl, with D on his board for a change, and took a trip up Varet, the highest point we got this trip, it seemed the Aguille Rouge lift was closed for maintenance most of the week, not that we had any intention of going up, as generally found the first part of run down is very icy and/or scraped of snow. Instead we had a cruise around the bowl before heading back to pick up BF from his lesson.



On the subject of lifts, not sure what was causing it, but have never had a more lift disrupted week. Always expect the odd stop, when there is a fall getting on/off, but this week spent a long time sat motionless on various lifts.
The afternoon we took BF over to La Plagne, so he could have a trip on Vanoise Express. Being somewhat limited on time we only got a little way over, for a photo opportunity, before heading back home. I do like the photo points around the area which download the pic to your Yuge App.



Although I like skiing on La Plagne side, it did seem more icy over that side, so was the only trip for this week.

Wednesday was the day planned for my annual humiliation, when I joined boy to have a go at XC skiing. A lovely day and the Nordic Centre was in excellent condition, with some stunning views from the top end of the course. Although very slow my Classic shuffle was going ok, until the last downhill section, when predictably I fell flat on my arsse. I really don’t know how he does it, but he makes it look so effortless.




To get my own back, I dragged boy out on “proper” skis in the afternoon, but annoyingly he could remember what to do. So a relaxed cruise around and a visit to 1600 and the Mont Blanc Piste.

Thursday, few tired legs in action, so a mid-morning vin chaud stop was called for, before a nice tour of other quieter locations. Mainly dropping into Arc 2000 and taking the back lift out to join Aguille Rouge and follow most of the way to Villaroger, before heading back to pick up Comborcie Lift. A few challenging sections for the boyfriend given his level of experience, but he coped well.





I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, if you want quieter skiing in Les Arcs, stick to the pistes around Vallandry/Arc 1600 and Arc 1800. There seem to be an obsession with heading over to the Arc 2000 bowl, which IMO, are fairly featureless runs. Particularly if it’s low visibility! Possibly the worst crowds of the week on the run back to Vallandry on Belevedere, with countless people heading back, not at all pleasant.

The last day arrives too soon, very much stuck to Vallandry and the tree lined runs due to the low visibility. Some lovely skiing to be had however, particularly as there had been a smattering of fresh snow. Resisting the temptation to do “one last run” it was the chore of packing and cleaning ready for an early start. Well for most of us as Boy was heading off to Italy for a race!



Anticipating the mad dash out the valley, we were on the road by 5:30am and had a very smooth journey up through France. The only real delay caused by UK Border Force who seemed to be on a go-slow, with it taking well over an hour to clear customs. Still, we eventually got on a train and reached home around 7pm. 14h25m door to door.



A very pleasant week overall and by far better than the usual Christmas at home. A little busier than previous Christmas trips, but not too bad by any means. Only a couple of pinch points, where the Queue jumping Essential pass was (well) essential. Plus a few very busy pistes late afternoon when everyone was heading home.

Can't wait to go again snowHead

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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Superb! Thanks for posting. Nothing beats an upbeat family ski holiday report!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
The Flying Snowplough wrote:
Superb! Thanks for posting. Nothing beats an upbeat family ski holiday report!
+1!
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Quote:

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, if you want quieter skiing in Les Arcs, stick to the pistes around Vallandry/Arc 1600 and Arc 1800. There seem to be an obsession with heading over to the Arc 2000 bowl, which IMO, are fairly featureless runs. Particularly if it’s low visibility! Possibly the worst crowds of the week on the run back to Vallandry on Belevedere, with countless people heading back, not at all pleasant.

Couldn't agree more. With the exception of the black pistes in 2000 I see no purpose in going over. The red pistes (and between them) coming down to 1800 are usually in good condition and are usually virtually deserted yet the 2000 bowl is packed. Looking at my old piste maps I see that the steep Froide Fontaine piste used to be classified as black. It is steep for a red in sections.

There is a section on Belvedere that was terrible for crowds. On our last day we came down Golf on our way home (about 16:30 on the 30th). The bottom was closed. As was the bottom of Vagere. So for a short section of narrow blue piste you have: Belvedere, Traverse, Golf, Vagere and loads of other skiers returning to 1800 all converged together. It's never the most pleasant bits of piste but with all those crowds it's horrible. Perhaps if the bottom of Vagere was open (it didn't look too bad) or if they reinstated the bottom bit of Carreley that is now overgrown it would ease the traffic.

I enjoyed reading your report. I put mine up on the Les Arcs topic as I went along. You commented on it.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Nice.
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@johnE, Indeed - I kept thinking at some point we must have passed each other or standing in the same lift! Agree about Belvedere - a couple of days I would describe parts of it as people soup
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Thanks for the fun report! Well done on your cross country attempts, I absolutely resemble your 'classic shuffle' remark... Laughing
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
johnE wrote:
Quote:

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, if you want quieter skiing in Les Arcs, stick to the pistes around Vallandry/Arc 1600 and Arc 1800. There seem to be an obsession with heading over to the Arc 2000 bowl, which IMO, are fairly featureless runs. Particularly if it’s low visibility! Possibly the worst crowds of the week on the run back to Vallandry on Belevedere, with countless people heading back, not at all pleasant.

Couldn't agree more. With the exception of the black pistes in 2000 I see no purpose in going over. The red pistes (and between them) coming down to 1800 are usually in good condition and are usually virtually deserted yet the 2000 bowl is packed. Looking at my old piste maps I see that the steep Froide Fontaine piste used to be classified as black. It is steep for a red in sections.

There is a section on Belvedere that was terrible for crowds. On our last day we came down Golf on our way home (about 16:30 on the 30th). The bottom was closed. As was the bottom of Vagere. So for a short section of narrow blue piste you have: Belvedere, Traverse, Golf, Vagere and loads of other skiers returning to 1800 all converged together. It's never the most pleasant bits of piste but with all those crowds it's horrible. Perhaps if the bottom of Vagere was open (it didn't look too bad) or if they reinstated the bottom bit of Carreley that is now overgrown it would ease the traffic.

I enjoyed reading your report. I put mine up on the Les Arcs topic as I went along. You commented on it.


I was literally going to quote the same bit and say the same thing! The tree lined runs into 1600 and 1800 are probably some of my favourite all time runs - it bemuses me why they are so quiet and why people head straight towards the 2000 bowl, but long may it continue!

Great report @Boris
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