After 10 years I am going back to Dolomites at the end of January and will be staying in Santa Cristina for 2 weeks. After some valuable suggestions from Snowheads community I've decided to fly to Munich and take EC train to Brixen and bus to Santa Cristina. No car ...
Am I making a mistake by not having a vehicle ? I plan on breaking down my ski days by skiing different areas each day (all 4 Sella Ronda areas) but would also like to get to Kronplatz, maybe Cortina (read somewhere that there is a new gondola that makes day trip on skis somewhat feasible), Lagazuoi and Marmolada.
Any other less known ski areas that are easy to reach from Santa Cristina on skis (or short bus ride) that would be worth visiting and spending a day exploring around ?
Any suggestions on good lunch spots along the way, small charming huts ?
Are there any overnight ski lockers/depots close to chairlifts in Santa Cristina or Selva (I am bringing my own gear) ?
Is there such a thing as "singles lane" that would avoid long ques on Sella Ronda circuit ?
Advanced solo skier.
Thank you.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@Cheapski, most people would kill for the chance at 2 weeks . I've completed similar trips before and stayed in Santa Cristina at the foot of the Sasslong. You do not need a car at all if based in Val Gardena. I've done the trip from Munich too on public transport. Not short but easy and enjoyable enough.
There's loads you can do, particularly if you are advanced and skiing solo.
- Marmaronda (Marmolada plus Sella Ronda).
- Day at Alta Badia with hidden valley or Santa Croce trip.
- Ski Panorama to Buffaure (ski the red and black in Pozza a couple of times).
- Ski Panorama to Buffaure and ski the Pera side.
- Cortina (haven't done it myself yet).
- Grande Guerra tour both ways. I prefer clockwise as it is quieter.
- Day at Arabba's reds and blacks.
- Day at Kronplatz.
I'd look at the weather the night before and make a plan where to ski based on that. Sadly there are no single lanes. Get up for the first lift and you can cover a huge distance skiing solo. Lunch early or late and make the most of the quieter time between 1230 and 1430.
As you say, there's a decision to be made where you keep your skis. Selva is my advice. Although it requires a 10 minute bus, it allows quick access to the Ronda both ways for launching your expeditions. I would use the Scuola 2000 ski lockers in Selva at Ciampinoi gondola, 5 euro per day if solo. On the bus for 8 and you'll be on the snow for 0830.
For lunch stops I particularly like Utia Trieste and Bamby in Alta Badia. Crep du Munt and Rifuigo Col Alt in Corvara. For last rights, I like the last lift up Dantecepies and drinks at Panorama before skiing down the big empty red straight into town. As you have your own gear, I would recommend a 'pintenwax' at La Baita at Pralongia. Local Ladino tradition of having a pint whilst watching your skis being serviced on the mountain.
If the weather is to poor to ski one day, take a rest and jump on the bus to Ortisei or Bolzano.
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
This is a fab list and very envious you get two weeks .
I would only add that a “day” at Kronplatz might be tricky on skis from selva though …at best you might get a few hours there .
We have done it from La Villa and it’s still a fair old trip . We probably went first lift and took maybe 90 mins to get to top of Kronplatz …
A chunk of that is waiting for and riding the bus…
From Ciampanoi in selva … up costabella chair , up dantercepies gondola , all the way down to Corvara (via the two way bubble at the bottom).
Up a short chair (can’t remember name - costes?) ski through town to go up big col alt gondola , braia fraida chair across Alta Badia , quick blue , another chair (Praia de corf?) up to Piz La Ila , ski the lovely long red (or the World Cup black!) to La Villa … from memory , a couple of short chairs over La Villa to nursery slopes followed by a bigger one (gardenaccia) . Ski down to bottom of sponata chair and get the shuttle bus to piculin (20 minute ride , runs every 20 mins from 08:30 to 16:30). And then you still have at least 5 more lifts before you get to the top of Kronplatz … not sure how fast you ski but probably a couple of hours … gives you a few hours at Kronplatz before you will need to think about getting back …
Is there a way to get an early bus directly to Kronplatz from selva ?
@sheffskibod, The only way I have done it and I think the only way to do it from Selva is to be on Dantecepies when it opens and go as you say to Sponata. After Col Alt and Braia Freida, there are three options to La Villa:
1. Pre de Couif and down the Gran Risa or the red.
2. Bamby and the same.
3. Straight down the long blue that meets the red. I think this might be the quickest as it skips a lift.
Saturdays are best for it and solo is ideal.
To maximise skiing at Kronplatz, a quick sandwich or postpone eating until safely within reach of Val Gardena.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
2 weeks...is it long enough.... should be the question.
Honest answer, I would spend a week on the other side of the Sella Ronda, just because you would be losing a fair bit of travel time to explore the Superski area on that side if you're based in Santa Cristina. With two weeks there's no need to spend 2 hours "commuting" from your base to get to areas you haven't yet skied.
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@Cheapski, Keep an eye on what is happening with the trains in Germany. There are planned train driver strikes though the details are unclear and there does seem to be a possible resolution on the horizon. If they happen no EC trains from Munich.
After all it is free
After all it is free
We just did 2 weeks pre Xmas, never skied the same area twice. If you can alter your plans slightly I would highly recommend what we did. 1 week in La Villa - easier (less stressful) access to Kronplatz, Hidden Valley, Corvara. We even had a day trip to Drei Zinnen. Then we put our luggage in a taxi and skied over to Selva for a week Taxi for luggage was €110 between 4 of us but less hassle than packing up skis boots etc. PM me if you would like more advice.
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^^ meant Cortina not Corvara
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Ski the Net with snowHeads
@Cheapski, to the great tips already provided by @sean1967, I would add the Val Gardena Ronda.
I prefer skiing it anti-clockwise:
Up underground funicular and gondola to Col Raiser and chair to Seceda.
Down fabulous 11km-long La Longia to Ortisei.
Walk across Ortisei (escalators and travelator take you part of the way).
Up gondola to Mount Seuc.
Ski over to Seiser Alm via 61 Steger Dellai 2-seater chair.
Visit Laurin terrain park (even to watch others on huge ramps) &/or timed GS run on Spitzbuhl.
Up 62 Panorama and 74 Paradiso chairs.
Fast cruise down from Goldknopf (where there is a speed test) to Saltria.
Up 65 Florian and back down to Saltria bus stop.
Bus (fitted with snow chains) from Saltria to Monte Pana through forest - magical! (Cash only on bus.)
Up 23 Mont Seura chair, down a short way and up 21 Tramans chair and you’re back to Santa Cristina for a fast finish down the Sasslong.
Here's a Google Maps link to the 11-minute walking route from the bottom of the Seceda gondola to the Ortisei-Seiser Alm gondola via the travelators in the Curta pedestrian tunnel at Ortisei:
https://goo.gl/maps/VKtPsWkPmRqCoW6D9
@Cheapski, just so you know, assuming that EC is the ÖBB train, they tend not to have wifi. Makes no real difference, just a heads up.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
I second the recommendation of the Scuola 2000 ski lockers in Selva at Ciampinoi gondola. Just got back from Selva and we used them for our entire week. Very spacious, clean and modern facility right below the gondola. Make sure you get your ski pass before renting the locker. This allow the attendant there to set up your ski pass as the key to open the locker. Very convenient. Most days, you can take the bus from Santa Cristina to Ciampinoi such that you arrive at Ciampinoi at about 8 am. The bus will stop right outside. Then down the elevator, boot up and grab your gear, and hop on the gondola or walk over to costabella chair, depending on where you are going for the day. This also allows you to travel with ski boots, helmets, skis, poles, ect. If you want to have some days where you start at Santa Christina just make sure your gear stays with you back to the hotel.
As far as there being no solo lines (which is correct), you will still benefit from the lack of any roped corrals or line attendants. By yourself, if you feel the need, you can be rather judicious in snaking your way through the line, since you won't have to worry about staying with your group. Nearly everyone else will concede space to you in favor of staying with their group.
As noted by someone else, if you are not stuck with your accommodations for the full two weeks, you might want to consider staying a week on the other side. While two weeks is not too long considering all the terrain, it might get boring a bit in week two skiing a lot of the same stuff to get to places.
Also recommend catching the pro hockey game in town in Selva if interested. Fun time if you like hockey.
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Thank you all for great suggestions, looked at the map and Ski Panorama sounds interesting, feeling is that Kronplatz is bit much too "ambitious" for a day trip from Santa Cristina ?
Ski lockers at Scoula 2000 - thank you.
Train without wifi is better than no train at all;)
That potential strike would be a major headache since my flight back is from VCE and renting a car in MUC is not an option.
As for accommodation - it is already paid for but I will look more into getting few days on Arabba side, how difficult could it be finding last minute reasonable priced hotel for 2/3 nights ? I like the idea of skiing over ...
I just found a paper map from 2014, my previous trip to Val Gardena ... on it a note with the base depth on January 28, 2014 ... bottom 65cm, top 175cm !!! Hoping for half of that this time around. If my memory still serves me well, I completed the circuit in 3 or 4 hours ? I enjoyed anti(counter)-clockwise more than the other way around.
Since then I felt that although Sella Ronda is great I missed much more.
Any "secret" spots that anybody would like to share (and make it not so 'secret") ?
Thanks again !
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Cheapski wrote:
Any "secret" spots that anybody would like to share (and make it not so 'secret") ?
Best 'secret' run in the area is Blue 2 (lift 17, a poma) in the Corvara area from Crep de Ment down to the road
@red 27, and from the same spot - 1A : Parallels 1 for a short time but through the trees (never anyone on it )
Piste 12 at Seceda (get to it from the top of Col Raiser bubble) - very short Black, but loads of fun ; rinse and repeat because it is so quiet
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
@Cheapski, a decent few hours at Kronplatz is achievable if you are on Dantercepies at 0830 and neither shilly shally nor dilly dally. Some very nice skiing there. A decent loop that will cover some great reds and blacks would be down the World Cup Erta (or parallel Red 41), up to top of Kronplatz, then down towards Brunico on Sylvester or Herrnegg. Back up to Kronplatz, down 12 and 34, up the gondola and then down the famous Piculin and back on the bus towards the Ronda.
If you make it to Sponata and are behind schedule or lose your nerve, head to Santa Croce. Nice scenery, skiing and food there.
The key is to get up early and get off the Ronda. Spending time at Arabba is well worth it, nice reds and blacks there.
The Panorama is definitely worth a day if not two, the skiing at Buffare, particularly the Red and Black down into Pozza are excellent.
Regarding secret / quieter spots
- Slope 2 of the Gardena Super 8 from Dantercepies right down to Ciampac hut is a great run with a great hut and views at the bottom. The final part is often very quite. There's an excellent restaurant close to there, Ciastel De Val.
- Slope 5 of the Gardena Super 8 from Piz Seteur is brilliant, usually very quite but a tad short. Hotel Sella just before the Piz Seteur serves the finest Bombardino in the world. An enormous glass mug of the best tasting gear.
- The Dantercepies run down from Panorama Bar (after they play Con Te Partiro is great) all the way into town, as it gets dark, is excellent.
- Slope 4 of the Gardena Super 8 and the parallel black at Monte Pana are worth a visit. Don't eat over there though.
- The whole of Santa Croce. Quite gentle but great for carving. Slope 27 from Sponata to the valley is great.
- Red 21A from Punta Trieste to Pralongia, rollercoaster. It wasn't open in December though sadly.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
albob wrote:
@red 27, and from the same spot - 1A : Parallels 1 for a short time but through the trees (never anyone on it )
Piste 12 at Seceda (get to it from the top of Col Raiser bubble) - very short Black, but loads of fun ; rinse and repeat because it is so quiet
Good shout. We have had fantastic conditions on 12. The black rating scares most people away but it's always pisted. You can do it 10 times in an hour if you want to practice GS turns.
Another way to beat the crowds in the SR is over at the top of the Passo Fedaia. There are blue, red and a black run from Lifts 102 and 104 (at the far skier's left from the top of Belvedere bowl). You start with firm snow, then toward the bottom of the lifts is a wide red that gets a ton of sun, so it softens enough you can pretend you're Marco Odermatt. There's also a bit of side piste to muck around on. The right side of Belvedere is always slammed with people doing the SR but the left is almost always quiet.
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Pasigal wrote:
albob wrote:
@red 27, and from the same spot - 1A : Parallels 1 for a short time but through the trees (never anyone on it )
Piste 12 at Seceda (get to it from the top of Col Raiser bubble) - very short Black, but loads of fun ; rinse and repeat because it is so quiet
Good shout. We have had fantastic conditions on 12. The black rating scares most people away but it's always pisted. You can do it 10 times in an hour if you want to practice GS turns.
Another way to beat the crowds in the SR is over at the top of the Passo Fedaia. There are blue, red and a black run from Lifts 102 and 104 (at the far skier's left from the top of Belvedere bowl). You start with firm snow, then toward the bottom of the lifts is a wide red that gets a ton of sun, so it softens enough you can pretend you're Marco Odermatt. There's also a bit of side piste to muck around on. The right side of Belvedere is always slammed with people doing the SR but the left is almost always quiet.
A small tip on Belvedere -- we love the Chalet Belvedere (far skiers' right) for lunch. It's not necessarily better than any other baita/refugio, but it has a big menu, quick service, good coffee and desserts, a terrace with stunning views, and is quite cozy (it's often very windy up there). If you get there at 1145 you will have your pick of tables. If you get there at 1215 you will not...we've never had a bad meal there. You can get to it from Lift 104 (just ski across the top of the ridge), then after lunch, either go to another SR area, or just cut diagonally across back to 102/104 lifts.
@Cheapski, Basically, anything on the Sella Ronda is accessible from Selva. A decent skier can easily do the circuit both ways in a day, but there are a number of areas that are worth a day out.
You could easily take in Marmolada and a circuit of the Sella Ronda in the same trip.
Quite a few Snowheads regularly take a trip from Arabba to Kronplatz on the Birthday bash. An early start can easily give you 4 hours skiing there, plus there are some great runs en route.
Traveling time from Selva would be very similar to Arabba, so well worth considering. Buses run from La Villa every 20 minutes.
I suggest starting back just after 2pm, and aiming for the 2.40 return bus, which will give you 90 minutes to get back from La Villa. (should be easily doable in 1 hour.
The 3pm bus might be a bit tight if you hit a queue.
(eg. last year, one of the party had an injury. 2 of us waited and caught the 3pm bus, but only made the last lift at Passo Campolongo with 10 minutes to spare- admittedly though, we could have taken a shorter route via Corvara and saved another 10 minutes.
The church at Santa Croce is worth a visit, plus a nice run back down . Same route to La Villa, but take the chair along the valley*.
Cortina isn't really practical from the Sella Ronda. Easy enough to get over there. The gondola from Bai de Dones takes 20 minutes.
However, you have to allow time to complete the Cinque Tori circuit and the hidden valley on the return, which will take 90 minutes, and you might also have a queue at the cable car.
Plus, there can be a delay on the horse tow back to Armentarola. You would need to allow 2 hours to be sure, plus the return time to Passo Gardena.
All the other trips mentioned above are well worth the effort. I'd add Pozza di Fasso. The black run back down to Alba is a great run.
There is also a circuit around Vigo on the other side of the valley if you have time (short bus ride to get on it). I've not done that one, but have seen videos of it and it looks ok.
* The restaurant Ustari Posta in Badia is highly recommended. Igor posts some fantastic videos on youtube of his trips around the area with his family. Well worth looking at some of them for ideas.
This is his first offering of the year.
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
JohnDory wrote:
We just did 2 weeks pre Xmas, never skied the same area twice. If you can alter your plans slightly I would highly recommend what we did. 1 week in La Villa - easier (less stressful) access to Kronplatz, Hidden Valley, Corvara. We even had a day trip to Drei Zinnen. Then we put our luggage in a taxi and skied over to Selva for a week Taxi for luggage was €110 between 4 of us but less hassle than packing up skis boots etc. PM me if you would like more advice.
That sounds like a great combo!
After all it is free
After all it is free
@Scrunch77,
Quote:
Bus (fitted with snow chains) from Saltria to Monte Pana through forest - magical!
On a sunny day after a big snowfall I'd do this for the bus ride alone, it's so beautiful.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Hurtle wrote:
@Scrunch77,
Quote:
Bus (fitted with snow chains) from Saltria to Monte Pana through forest - magical!
On a sunny day after a big snowfall I'd do this for the bus ride alone, it's so beautiful.
Although...if you leave Saltria too late it's chaos. Everyone pushing to get on the bus so they can get home before the lifts stop running elsewhere. I'd say not to leave Saltria after 2 p.m.
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Pasigal wrote:
Although...if you leave Saltria too late it's chaos. Everyone pushing to get on the bus so they can get home before the lifts stop running elsewhere. I'd say not to leave Saltria after 2 p.m.
The first time I got the bus I naively assumed everyone who lined up after me had formed an orderly queue. When the bus arrived I was flabbergasted as a scramble ensued.
I didn’t make the same mistake again! Elbows out!!
Marlene is German-speaking but the views speak for themselves and she is definitely a bit easier on the eye than Igor Tavella!!
She has a few Dolomites vids on her channel.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Scrunch77 wrote:
Pasigal wrote:
Although...if you leave Saltria too late it's chaos. Everyone pushing to get on the bus so they can get home before the lifts stop running elsewhere. I'd say not to leave Saltria after 2 p.m.
The first time I got the bus I naively assumed everyone who lined up after me had formed an orderly queue. When the bus arrived I was flabbergasted as a scramble ensued.
I didn’t make the same mistake again! Elbows out!!
Nor I!
You're still in Italy, remember.
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Pasigal wrote:
Scrunch77 wrote:
Pasigal wrote:
Although...if you leave Saltria too late it's chaos. Everyone pushing to get on the bus so they can get home before the lifts stop running elsewhere. I'd say not to leave Saltria after 2 p.m.
The first time I got the bus I naively assumed everyone who lined up after me had formed an orderly queue. When the bus arrived I was flabbergasted as a scramble ensued.
I didn’t make the same mistake again! Elbows out!!
Nor I!
You're still in Italy, remember.
It's Germans that don't believe in queuing.
Went on a summer holiday to Austria as a young man, waiting for the bus to arrive with a bunch of German pensioners.
Never saw so many grannies elbowing their way onto the bus!
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
OK, back from the trip and first let me thank everybody that added their valuable insights !
Everything went as anticipated with some small (expected) "bumps".
Flying to Munich was not a great option, knowing what I know know - Venice is much better option. I avoided DBB strikes by day or so but Munich Airport is not that great for being a "major" international hub ... very obvious lack of people working there, even a very nice lady who helped me with my "lost" skis admitted that they are very "understaffed" !? She was helping me locate my "lost" skis.
Missed one EC train, got on another, Sudtiroltransfer.com was very easy to communicate and very nice car picked me up from Brixen and deposited me at my accommodation in St. Cristina. Same reliable service on the way back to Bozen. Easy train connection to Venice Mestre. Buses in Val Gardena are convenient and frequent, one evening there was a bit of a traffic jam going to Ortisei but overall no car needed if able and willing to walk uphill sometimes ...
Skiing was just fantastic, it almost fell like April in January (+5C) with somewhat questionable conditions on the most frequented routes in the afternoon but overall - 9.5/10
Good, heavy "mid eighties" ski will get you through everything there.
I discovered a whole bunch of good routes, hidden spots, great values and good people. Needless to say that I am very impressed with the whole region and how integrated and seamless it is for visitors (quite a bit of them for January - I've heard from some people in town).
Run down to Ortisei - overrated. Especially coming back up
Run down to Col Raiser from the same spot - fun.
Alpi di Siusi - pretty, sunny, slushy, mellow. Saltria bus was crowded, nice ride but not sure for more than once.
Val Gardena - busy, pretty, pricier, convenient with most "to do" offers (St. Urlich/Ortisei is very charming).
Alta Badia - wow, so many "hidden gems", absolutely worth leaving "Sella Ronda" and checking out Santa Croce, Colfosco, San Casiano, La Villa ... very nice.
Val di Fassa - that Belvedere cluster fu.k ... otherwise ok but it takes time and effort to get to "quiet" areas, well worth it IMO.
Arabba - most challenging skiing but conditions for "steep" were not "deep", I even saw guy with 106mm skis ready to go - no luck
True culinary delight everywhere !!!
Added couple of days at Carnevale di Venezia on the way back !
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@Cheapski, nice report, I’m just back from from Alba Di Canazei and used Belvedere each day as a start point, out M of interest what was the problems you experienced?
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
geoffknight wrote:
@Cheapski, nice report, I’m just back from from Alba Di Canazei and used Belvedere each day as a start point, out M of interest what was the problems you experienced?
For my January week in Canazei, I found the Belverdre area very busy ; the run down in to the valley (piste 6 del bosco) was horrendous.
I should say, the whole area was unusually busy for the third week in January - bad conditions elsewhere in Europe ??
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Very busy, for some of you that used Val di Fassa as a base area it might be different experience. I was there 3 or 4 times during my stay and it was always the longest cues of the day. There are few spots on "Sella Ronda" that are kind of "bottle necks", Selva being the other one but I feel Selva has more/better positioned lifts to handle increased crowds. The two chairs off Col Rodela were very nice and worth it spending some time there if you want to step out of the main circuit. Also found fascinating that sometimes taking a chair ride is enjoyable as much as skiing downhill, the views are just amazing. One of them is Florian in Alpe di Suissi, actually, that whole corner with Florian, Floralpina and Punta D'Oro chairs could provide some good cruising runs.
I also found out that going to Arraba and back from Val Gardena/Selva is much quicker going clockwise. Distance might be the same but lift capacity feels different. Corvara might be another "bottle neck" but timing it right is important. On sunny days I would suggest to either take early or late lunch or even better no lunch at all, best skiing was between 11:30-2, sun was high, every slope had some sunshine, softer but not slushy and no ice and piles of scraped off snow on major runs. It was hard to resist stopping by all those huts with smells serving as a magnet. I did resist - most of the time ...
My personal "pet peeve" was seeing people enjoy their beers at 9:30am ...
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Quote:
I should say, the whole area was unusually busy for the third week in January - bad conditions elsewhere in Europe ??
Same was reported from many places in France - including some with dodgy snow conditions.
FAQ
Poster: A snowHead
. I've completed similar trips before and stayed in Santa Cristina at the foot of the Sasslong. You do not need a car at all if based in Val Gardena. I've done the trip from Munich too on public transport. Not short but easy and enjoyable enough.
- no luck
