Four weeks in Europe - January 2024

A snowHead

Last January I bought a crew of six (a friend for each of my teen kids) all the way from Australia to France for a few weeks. This coming January it's just me and my wife. (My wallet is already relieved after the cost of last years trip).
We fly into Milan on the 24th of January. My wife has been travelling from the burbs of Brisbane to our city centre for weekly French lessons for the past 6 months - so she quite understandably wants to go to France for a portion of the time. The itinerary is roughly as follows -

Collect a car from Milan train station. Drive from Milan to France for about a week or so. We've not booked accommodation yet so we'll pick an area with good snow cover. We'd like to go to Briancon and surrounds but if the south has poor snow and the north doesn't we'll opt for another town with ski hills around it. Something like St Gervais. She'd like something a bit more French than the Tignes/Les Ars/Chamonix that we've experienced in the past. So we're open to suggestions on this. While in France we're keen to tick off one of our bucket list items by visiting a French Michelin starred restaurant. On the skiing front we're both gumby self taught skiers but with quite a bit of experience. I'm very wannabe expert and Kylie is relatively cautious. Whilst she loves skiing a big part for her is the views and the atmosphere. I'll likely get a guide for a morning or two if snow conditions are good.
Kylie would like to have a night in a valley town like Annecy or Grenoble too but we can leave that bit fluid.

From France we'll go to Aosta. We went there about 5 years ago with the kids. We're staying in a hotel with breakfast. We'll do some day trips to surrounding ski areas. Last time we missed out on skiing from Cervinia to Zermatt to check out the Matterhorn from the good side due to high winds. We'll be sure to pick the best day for the drive up to Cervinia this time. I'm also keen to check out Monterosa that we didn't do last time. If conditions are good a guided day from Courmayeur is on the cards.

After dropping the car at Milan train station we're going to catch the train to Bolzano for a night. I'm keen to check out Otzi the iceman. Then we get the train to Landeck for 5 nights. In Landeck we're doing half board. We really liked that arrangement when we stayed in Arabba in 2019. As we'll be doing day trips to surrounding ski areas it'll be nice to get home and not have to leave the hotel to go out for dinner. From Landeck we go to Zell Am See. I understand this may not seem the best location but accommodation was hard to lock down over the carnival week. I get it doesn't have the best skiing and it will be busy but I'm thinking most areas will be. The advantage with Zell Am See is easy access to the train station for a day trip to Salzburg. We have a Sound Of Music tour on our radar. My wife is a musician in a former life so we'll have to do the mandatory visit to Mozart's place. Zell also gives us the option of a day in Saalbach and even Kitz if we're feeling energetic.

From Zell we head to Munich for two nights before flying home.

I know some of you will be thinking there is too much driving and moving around. Fair points. But we're busy people and an active holiday is what we like - and we're very used to it from many previous road trip style snow/city holidays in North America, Japan and Europe.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions feel free to chime in. I'm open to new ideas.

*I'm back home for about 6 weeks then I head back to Europe for the End of Season Bash in Val Thorens. So I'll finally meet some of you in person then. Very Happy

A snowHead

Sounds amazing!

Very ambitious with all the travelling from one end of the Alps to the other, but I think you know that and are prepared for it.

A few comments that might help:

1. Winter tyres are not that easy to find on rentals in Italy. The usual offering is chains in the boot. That does keep you legal in Italy and I think also in France, but not Austria. But if you are doing a lot of mountain commuting with early starts and chasing snow, having something with snow tyres fitted will be so much more reassuring.

2. Briancon is a beautiful historic walled town with a Vauban fortress crowning it, water runs down a gulley in the main street. The skiing up at Montgenevre & the Milky Way and along the valley at Serre Chevalier is very worthwhile. Puy St Vincent is a family resort nearby. La Grave if you're feeling very adventurous. Feels a bit different in the Southern French Alps, more Larch trees that drop their needles in winter, unlike the evergreens further North, maybe not as pretty, but gives it a more open feel.

Serre Chevalier with Larches:

3. St Gervais is a 19th century spa town and has its charms. The ski area shared with Megeve isn't particularly high, but has great views of Mt Blanc. Les Contamines, up the valley, usually has better snow.

4. I would say Annecy is more charming than Grenoble.

5. Valle d'Aosta... Definitely do Zermatt from Cervinia on a clear serene day, the Matterhorn views are tremendous. If you can get over to the Gornergrat side by lunch, that would be good, then you have the afternoon to get back via the highest lift-served piste in Europe at over 3800m. Monte Rosa from Champoluc/Frachey funicular is a good option. Again see how far you get for lunch, then head back and play on the slopes above Champoluc if you have time spare. There are some nice runs above Gressoney. You might not get all the way to Alagna village. Don't get stuck in the wrong valley! I like La Thuile, a nicely varied ski area and the link over the border into France. Courmayeur is compact, but the guided off-piste opens it up if you have the skills.

6. Landeck. Not sure what all the transport options for commuting are there, but the train goes up to St Anton. I loved the Lech & Zurs side of the Arlberg most, though the apres at St Anton is second to none. You used to be able to get the post bus between St Anton & Lech either way, so you can spend more time in Lech. A day down at Ischgl would be nice if you can get there by bus. Maybe Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis if you can get a bus.

7. Zell...the town is charming and the local hill has great views over the lake and is OK ski-wise, but there's a lot more terrain in the Saalbach ski area, esp now it's linked right through to Fieberbrunn. You also have the Kitzsteinhorn glacier at Kaprun. It can get mighty cold up there though! I think there are buses you can catch there. The Hochkonig circuit might be nice if you can get to Maria Alm. Salzburg is a real gem!

Have a great time!! snowHead

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@luigi,
Thanks for the reply.
We have booked winter tyres through Hertz.
The place in Landeck is recommended by another Aussie. There is a local hill and buses to Serfaus and Ischgl too. I don’t know if we’re up for St Anton style apres but may check it out.
Nice shot of Serre Chevalier. I hope snow is good there. That really is the preference.

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This could be an option in Annecy, https://www.lestresoms.com/en/

Dining is 1 Star, it's a touch out of town but stunning views and our room was awesome.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

@endoman, thanks!

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@sbooker, Annecy is much nicer than Grenoble in my view, and would definitely be my preference.

After all it is free

@sbooker, have you booked your train tickets already? If not, and you know exact dates/times, then get on and do it and you might find very reasonably priced 1st class tickets.

Also, agree with the comment re Maria Alm, well worth a visit. Perhaps if you're staying in Zell am See, you might want to consider the SuperSki pass, that'll cover you for a few areas around there.
https://www.superskicard.com/en/superskicard.html

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@sbooker, My take on your ideas. The underlying point for my own travels of this type is to optimise transfers and fathing around.

If I were you I would do the following: Milan-Champoluc-Aosta-Cervinia-Megeve- St Foy/La Clusaz/Le Grand Bornand-AT-Munich. 3-4 days each.

The above is mostly specific to IT and FR. The IT side of the trip is also in a French speaking part of Italy. You would avoid going back and forward and would be a more flowy. For FR, the spots noted are different to the rest of Tarantaise or 3V. Megeve has several Michelin offerings.

Absolutely don't bother with Grenoble.

You know it makes sense.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

@sbooker,
You're outlined trip sounds great.
I would echo a lot of what @luigi, says. The southern French alps are lovely when the snow is good and they have a great relaxed vibe more than the more northerly resorts.
One thing if you are in the Serre Chevalier area and the snow is good a trip to La Grave with a guide is well worth it. The views are spectacular and the skiing is great. Although there is some very demanding skiing on the mountain, the more standard runs should be within the competence of most fit skiers with some off piste experience providing the snow is not to difficult. The runs are long though and a decent level of fitness will maximise enjoyment.

A snowHead

@sbooker, Landeck has a regular (very busy) Postbus up to St Anton, it's where a lot of lifties and longterm seasonal workers base themselves, cheap accommodation (compared to St Anton etc) but not very convenient for skiing Arlberg unless you are into pretty long days, especially if you are wanting any early evening apres ski and/ or getting round to Lech etc. Personally i'd say its a bit far out to properly enjoy what Ski Arlberg has to offer but as a base to do a few ski areas may well work OK. Train is a good service and that may be best option, albeit could get pricy for a few days travel (but if you've come all way from Oz maybe small beer). Enjoy.

A snowHead

@luigi, we loved Les ArCs. The tree lined runs really make that resort complete.
@Alastair Pink, Annecy it is.
@swskier, we have booked trains. And we’ll check out that card too. Thanks.
@mooney058, thanks. We’ve booked quite a bit so we’re now committed aside from the initial France bit.
@pam w, I’m getting the hint on Grenoble.
@Gämsbock, I’ll send that restaurant to my wife to check out. Thanks.
@T Bar, La Grave is a bucket list thing for me. (I have my eye on the 2025 Spring Off Piste Bash) but my wife would not likely be comfortable. And to be honest my poor skills would not do it justice.
@Markymark29, thanks. I think train would be best to St Anton. It’s 22 minutes and appears to be 3Euro per person each way if I’m reading things right.
On the Landeck thing. I do like to stay in a town where the workers are. I often have great conversations in pubs while having pre dinner drinks that way.

Thanks all for the advice.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

@sbooker, re The Sound of Music tour please be prepared that is geared towards the US audience. None of my many AT colleagues knew about Julie Andrews or the film

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@mooney058,
Thanks. Modern Australian 'culture' is moving a bit away from our British roots to something increasingly American unfortunately. (Is British culture becoming more Americanised too?)
I will now be prepared.
We love the film even though it is very cheesy.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

@sbooker, looking at the ÖBB app, Landeck to St Anton seems to be €8 each way

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@swskier, oh well. It’ll be worth it.
Incidentally when do last lifts run in St Anton? Is the only way to get to the Mooserwirt to ski down to it? Or does a lift bring pedestrians up after ski hours?

After all it is free

@luigi, will do. Very Happy

@sbooker, MW accessible by free ski bus (bus signed to Moos) and on ski down to town

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@Markymark29, Thanks. Which village in the Arlberg has the most retail/souvenir type shopping?

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All sounds fantastic @sbooker.

The Landeck local ski area (Venet) is worth a look. We've been twice, each time for a day when in the area. Both times it's been very quiet - the second time it was deserted on a bad weather powder day Very Happy

There's now quite upmarket accommodation at the top lift station. Saw a brochure for it while we were there and it looks very impressive - like a very posh mountain refuge.

Another vote for a visit to the top of Gornergrat at Zermatt. The hotel restaurant terrace there is fantastic - amazing views of The Matterhorn and other summits.

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@mountainaddict,
I have eyed off the local area. I like the idea of quiet on a powder day.

@sbooker, “ The advantage with Zell Am See is easy access to the train station for a day trip to Salzburg. We have a Sound Of Music tour on our radar.”

The original home of the Von Trapp family, where most of the singing children were born, is at Thumersbach, on the opposite side of the Zeller lake, facing Zell am See. It’s now a hotel, the Erlhof, and is reputed to have the best restaurant in the area. There is no mention of the SOM, even though it could presumably generate a lot of tourist income by marketing its Von Trapp connections. The SOM isn’t well-known in Austria, and also I’ve been told by a Saalbach friend, who used to work at the Erlhof and actually knew Maria Von Trapp that they want to play down any reminders of the war - and of course the second half of the SOM is dominated by the war theme. This reluctance to be reminded of the war, and Austria’s collaboration, is especially pronounced around the Zell am See area, where the Porsche family are a big influence.

You know it makes sense.

@tatmanstours, interesting.
I believe there is a bus from Zell Am See to Saalbach. If you’re around at that time we could share a chair or two perhaps.
I am curious to see the famed Saalbach apres. I assume there’s a bus back to Zell in the evening?

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

@sbooker, yes, I’ll be in Saalbach all season.

This website may be helpful to you in organising public transport in Salzburg province:
https://salzburg-verkehr.at/en/

I can also recommend watching the film, “The Sound of Christmas” (1987), which is available on YouTube (http://youtube.com/v/h5RAAeTbmck?si=3uCHS4xflIIt8wHI )

It sounds right up your wife’s strasse. It stars Julie Andrews, John Denver and Placido Domingo and has some magical moments, showing various places in Salzburg province. It also has a few scenes set in Saalbach, showing John Denver skiing, and him and Julie Andrews singing “Edelweiss” in the “Hinterhag Alm”, one of Saalbach’s prime après-ski venues (Saalbach’s answer to the Mooserwirt).

A snowHead

@sbooker, get yourself in the Berger Alm around 3ish in Saalbach, 2-4-1 drinks, then ski back in the dark, lots of fun! Make sure to take cash though, unless they've got card machines from this season!

A snowHead

@sbooker, if you end up wanting to stay in Serre Chevalier, let me know, I have a friend with much-recommended accommodation in the old town in Briancon, and there's my own apartment up in Le Monetier-Les-Bains, both very French. My apartment is only vacant until Jan 29th, so may not be long enough for you, but there's other options in the residence (handily managed by the friend with the accommodation in Briancon.

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@Hells Bells, thanks. I’m hoping Serre Chrvalier gets some snow.

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@swskier, Happy hour in the Bergeralm 15.30-16.30. There’s an ATM in the entrance foyer.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

5 nights in Landeck? Do you mean 5 hours?

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@swskier,
I’ll check it out. I’m not a big day time drinker but may have to make an exception.

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@red 27, no. Five nights.
A friend has stayed there and recommended it as a central location. They loved it. We will only be at the hotel for dinner and sleeping. All other times we’ll be in the hill.
I’m open to real towns as an alternative to ski resorts sometimes.

After all it is free

@tatmanstours, there's the local knowledge!

The ATM charges though, I seem to remember when I turned up with no cash in January Laughing

On the cash/card thing. On holiday I always have and pay with cash. At home it’s always card.

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Four weeks in Europe - January 2024

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