 Poster: A snowHead
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First time attempting to write a live trip report. We are currently on the night train from Helsinki to Kolari. Booked the train tickets in June and paid €198 for a 2 person cabin and a (hire) car on the train. Loaded the car at 7:20pm, had a beer in Pasila train station and boarded the train at 8:28pm. Had a few beers and food on the train and will soon be heading to bed. Arrive in Kolari at 10:45 tomorrow morning so time for a lie in and breakfast.
Will be working remotely and skiing for a week and a half. I’ll try and update this most days.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Nice one. Keep it coming 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@snow_promise, that's a proper train journey, car and all! What's the cabin like? I've only ever travelled in the cheap beds, not had the luxury of a private compartment.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| telford_mike wrote: |
| Nice one. Keep it coming |
+1. Nice to have something a little different.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Very cool
Looking forward to this one
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Also looking forward to this - report back how the working remotely goes, have my eye on Lapland for this purpose at some point!
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@mgrolf, the train cabins are fine, not exactly luxurious but certainly comfortable and no random person snoring next to you! They sleep 2 people in bunk beds which are made up for you with proper duvets and sheets. There are reading lights, power sockets and a little net thing at the top of the beds. In the downstairs cabins there is a small sink unit whereas the upstairs ones have their own toilet and shower. I always sleep really well on the train. The trains are super popular though so you need to book well in advance. The train is cheaper than flying from Helsinki to Lapland and in my opinion a much more pleasant experience. Last night the train was long - 10 double decker car carrier carriages, 4 double deckers sleeper carriages, 5 single decker sleeper carriages and the famous restaurant car.
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@ElzP, I've worked remotely a few times from up here before and it has gone ok. I've done many zoom meetings using the 4G + my phone as a hot spot with no problems. The 4G is really good up here given how remote it is.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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So we had a bit of a lie in on the train (I did not even wake up until after 8 am) and then had breakfast in the restaurant car which was ok - had porridge with blueberries, coffee and juice for €7.90 which was fine. The train arrived in Kolari on time and we waited in the station building for a bit while they do the shunting around of the train so that you can get the cars off. It took around 30 minutes and then we were on the road to Äkäslompolo which was a 30 minute drive. Roads were very white (as expected) but also very quiet. Arrived around midday and went to the destination Lapland office in the centre of the village to see if the cottage we had rented was ready yet. We were in luck so got the keys. As always the process with Destination Lapland was very smooth and easy and they were very friendly in the office today (would recommend booking accommodation through them). The cottage is good - just as advertised. After arriving we then went to Jounin Kauppa (Jouni's shop) which is the big supermarket to do a big shop. We'd brought quite a lot of drier stuff with us but fresh stuff (and beer) just freezes on the train. Shopping done, headed back to the cottage for a quick late lunch.
By around 3pm we were ready to head out cross country skiing and decided to go for a short hilly route on the skate skis. This decision was mainly based on the fact that it was already pitch dark and those tracks are well lit, however, I'm not usually a fan of big hills on skate skis... It was good to be out on the skis but the first climb up was pretty brutal. Struggling to breathe well in the minus 13C and also it has been snowing slightly so it was hard going in places. However, managed the 1.6 km climb from 270 m above sea level to 410 m without completely dying... Then we went down to Tunturijärvi where there is a small kota before turning tail and heading back. The decent down the 1.6 km was much more fun than going up it! So in total it was 12 km with 226 m of elevation gain.
Was quite chilly when we got back (skied back to the door down the very quiet side road) so have warmed up in the sauna.
More xc skiing tomorrow - hopefully a longer and less hilly route. Don't think there was any flat today!
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Have a great time, I was in Akaslompolo last week, almost too cold to skate ski. So mainly did classic.
Did end up with frost nipped on my ears. Dropped to minus 24 one afternoon. Love the warming huts and the donuts, will never eat a normal donut again.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@snow_promise, loving this, thankyou. Heading there ourselves in January for a couple of weeks, though we will be flying and taxiing, then shopping with a kick sled. It'll be our 4th trip there. See if there is a dance on at the Äkäshotelli, it's a good night and a great way to meet locals (though "locals" in the Äkäslompolo sense can mean anything up to a couple of hundred km  )
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Today was more skate skiing. Left around 11 am by which time it was "light" although with low cloud and some light snow it wasn't great visibility. We first headed from Äkäslompolo to Velhonkota. We passed a ski school group early on. All Finnish adults who did not look like beginners as they were classic skiing without poles looking pretty ok. The route to Velhonkota had just been pisted, and although there are a few lumps, it is more downhill than up so we made good progress.
From Velhonkota is was a short sharp climb up before a right turn to take us towards Luosujärvi. Its the first time we'd skied the route from Velhonkota to Luosujärvi (usually head back up to Tunturijärvi) but we really enjoyed it. Very scenic and very quiet. In the 10.2 km we only saw 7 other people. We stopped for a hot drink and a munkki (Finnish donut) in the hut on the edge of the lake in Luosujärvi which was very pleasant and I also tried to warm up my toes by the fire with some success.
After that it was the start of the return which was a lot of uphill - basically we went east a bit before north and ended up at Tunturijärvi. This climb went pretty well as it is about 6 km of up but never too steep so it was good for skating at a reasonable pace. The last bit of up from Tunturijärvi to the edge of the lamminkolmiö (warm triangle) was a bit of an effort of tired legs but a few chocolate covered raisins and the remains of my hot juice in my flask did the trick and we made it up. The last few kilometers were a simple roll down the hill into Äkäslompolo.
In total it was 29 km and 343 m of elevation in 2 hrs 52 of moving time (there were quite a few short breaks!)
Tired legs but it was a good day out - always nice to do a loop.
Tomorrow will be work and hopefully a short trip on my classic skis. I've been having huge boot problems with my classic boots for the last 2 years which I hope to try and start resolving tomorrow. The short version of this is, had skis and boots for ~10 years which had pilot (2 bars) bindings. Got new skin skis (very nice) but with the newer SNS Profil bindings so got new boots (old ones were also pretty worn). Total disaster with blisters on my heels and big toes. Sold them, bought another pair which are the descendant of my original boots but with a different fastening mechanism, more blisters but not as bad but not great. Hoping to trial some other options tomorrow so I'll be heading to Äkäs sports shop to see what they say. Really hoping to get something fixed as the next few days look very cold (<20C) so do not want to be skate skiing in that!
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Mainly work today - no issues with using the 4G from my phone for zoom.
I did rent some classic xc ski boots from Äkäs sport shop which was €32 for 3 days and they said come back and swap them as much as you want. Went out for a short classic ski at lunch time. Headed north up the western edge of Kesanki (quite a climb - 2.76 km, 121 m of up so an average gradient of 4.4%) before rolling down to the laavu at the end of Hangaskuuru where I had a short stop for a drink and snack that I'd brought with me. From here I headed west and took the shortest route back. Overall 15.3 km and 229 m of elevation so not a bad lunch time leg stretch. The rental boots were good for the first 10 - 12 km and then like my own ones started rubbing my heels and edges of the big toes. Grrr. Not good. Will go back and swap them tomorrow.
Was a bit warmer today - only minus 12C which really felt a lot better than yesterdays -16C. It has been really overcast with lots of low cloud so not many views and no chance of spotting the northern lights. Forecast suggests much colder temperatures mid week before a storm and warmer temperatures at the weekend. We will see....
p.s if anyone has any suggestions regarding the boot issue, please let me know!
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You know it makes sense.
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I used some Runderwear double layered anti blister running socks. Worked a treat with my new classic xc boots. Might be tricky to get any equivalents up there though. Worth an ask though in one of the outdoor shops.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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On Tuesday morning I went and swapped the xc classic boots for half a size smaller. It turns out that Äkäslompolo sports shop only rent Salomon classic boots so there wasn't really any other options. However the guy was friendly and did haul out multiple pairs of the same boot in the same size in case some had been stretched more than others  Anyway the slightly smaller pair were definitely an improvement - much less heel movement. So on Tuesday I did the same 15 km loop as I had done on Monday but in the opposite direction. It was around -12C and the low cloud is still here.. However it was still nice to be out.
This morning the plan was to go for an early ski as I had some work things from midday. Ended up leaving around 9:45 am as it was completely pitch dark until then and I was lacking motivation to start skiing in total darkness. However, managed a 10 km ski. We went up the hill towards the downhill skiing area but on the track on the eastern side of the main road that goes passed the Kellokas visiting centre. I'd never done this route before (its marked as black on the map so I had steered clear). It was very steep in places (resorted to herring bone technique in a few places) but it was also very scenic and there were lots of animal tracks around. Once we got the to the top, we went round the warm triangle route before heading back down the hill to Äkäslompolo. Weather was similar to yesterday (around -12C) but there was a bit more visibility so we could see the tops of some of the fells when we got to the top which was nice.
Only a short 10 km ski today but 191 m of elevation gain and it beats being in my office.
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Poster: A snowHead
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@snow_promise, We have always had great service in the sports shop, and have never felt the stock or choice was inadequate, though, as we are relative novices, perhaps we are easily pleased. They have always bent over backwards to help us and make sure we are happy with our kit and have given lots of advice freely and happily. It seems typical that they would try different boots of the same size to try to please you. Not sure why you thought that was funny, I'd say it was going above and beyond.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I just thought it was odd that they only have one brand as I know some brands just do not suit some peoples feet. For me usually Salomon and Fischer boots are good but Rossignol boots just do not fit me at all. The shop staff were friendly though. It was just a bit of a comedy scene with me sat with a large pile of boots that were all the same.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Did you try in Sports corner, opposite the supermarket? They are good too. Or maybe you could buy some? But as said previously, we have had success with double layer anti blister winter trail running socks.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@thecramps, no I didn’t try them. I already own 2 pairs of classic boots neither which agree with my feet so I was attempting to try some other options before I bought a third pair!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@snow_promise, Blimey you've not been lucky with boots (or maybe you have weird feet  ). I hope the smaller boots work out ok until you can find a long term solution. But if you have to give your feet a break from skiing, check out if there is a dance on at the Äkäshotelli. I promise there are really good fun, and will be absolutely nothing like what you might expect.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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An update on our trip..
On Thursday I had quite a lot of work things that needed doing so no skiing. Boo. However late afternoon / early evening we walked into the centre and had a look round some shops then had a few beers in Selvä Pyy.
Friday was a trip up to Pallas which is about an hour drive north of Ylläs. Mr snow_promise works for the Finnish Meteorological Institute and they have a very remote field station up there. Its one reason we are up here at the moment as he has been going over there to take care of various instruments. On Friday some extra hands were potentially needed so I was roped in with the deal that we'd go snow shoeing afterwards. So we had a few hours of trying to pack some instruments and get them out of the Finnish forest which was eventually successful. Field work up here at this time of year is pretty brutal! After that the plan was to walk up to Sammeltunturi on our snowshoes. However, it was already a bit later than planned so getting dark so a shorter route was decided upon. It was still very spectacular - the classic Lapland photos of trees bend over covered in snow. It first few kilometres of the track had had a few people on it recently so was quite quick going on the snow shoes, however once we turned off the main track it was a different story. There was many places in the trees with at least 75 cm of very powdery snow so it was really hard going breaking track. Nevertheless it was a good short hike.
Today we have been downhill skiing in Levi. Rented skis and boots from Äkäslompolo sports shop. Skis are really good - very well looked after. I've got some Salomon Stance ski's and mr snow_promise has some Line Honey Badgers. Paid €58 for 2 days which included boot hire. By the time we'd sorted skis, driven to Levi it was after 11:30 before we were ready to start.
We parked at south point as its always pretty easy to find a space there. I knew the forecast was for a warm front with quite a bit of snow and wind this afternoon, however, the chairlift at south was already closed due to weather. Its quite vulnerable to wind in the middle section which I guess is why they still have the t-bar. So we took the t-bar up which was fine. Did a warm up lap on the south piste ( since it was last winter since I had last been on downhill skis. The snow was really nice though so it was easy to remember how to ski. We skied round 7, then west, then decided to head over to the front slopes for a bit. Its looking really different over there now that the new huge building at the bottom of the new north chairlift is pretty much ready (the apartments in that building are on the market for crazy money - around half a million euros for a 60 m2 apartment). After that we skied down to the bottom of Gondola by which time my feet were freezing (totally numb) so we decided to head over to Tuikku which is the restaurant right on the top for a snack and to warm up. However, when we were on the Gondola I did say its pretty windy so I wasn't hugely surprised that after our coffee, pizza slices and donuts to check the website to find that Gondola had shut due to wind. Since 5 wasn't open there was no open route back to the car. Arghh, Never to be defeated, mr snow_promise first suggested we ski down run 5.4 before picking up 6.1 which was open so we went to investigate and I decided this was a seriously bad plan as it had not been at all pisted and was pitch dark. Plan B was then to skate / walk back up to the top of 6.1 was clearly going down to zero point and getting the bus was not an option... Anyway we skated / walked back up which certainly warmed me up.
By the time we go to the top of 6 the wind was howling. Both of us learnt to ski in Scotland and it was like that. We did two laps on 6 - the snow was really good and it was deserted. After that w decided to go back to 7 for a few last runs. Jeez, trying to skate / pole across the top was hideous, I felt like a polar explorer. The wind was so strong but after some major effort we made it. We then did 3 laps on 7 as the snow was so good - a good 4-5 cm of fresh snow had already settled on the piste. Both of us had comedy falls in the side piste but nothing serious. The route up the t-bar was getting very snow covered in places by the time we finished - big lumps of snow were being wind blown across the track so I was glad not to be on my snowboard! After that we headed back down 8 and with all the fresh snow could easily ski to the car. Left around 16:30 and had a very snowy drive back to Äkäslompolo.
Still snowing here now but the wind seems to be dropping a bit so hopefully good conditions tomorrow.
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@thecramps, my feet are always a pain for any snow sport. Wide at the front with very skinny heels. However, the smaller classic boots were ok-ish. No heel lift but squashed little toes.
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@ElzP, I saw this co-working space company advertising today: https://www.kohtacoworking.com/. They have office spaces in Äkäslompolo, Ylläsjärvi, Levi and Muonio (however I do not recommend you go to Muonio!). No idea how good they are / cost but thought it might be of interest to you.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@snow_promise, Glad the smaller boots are working out, blisters are no fun.
You had quite a day of it. Poleing into the wind on those fells can be very hard. We once had to pole downhill for a short distance on Yllästunturi, the wind was so fierce.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@snow_promise, skating downhill into the wind is a typically Scandi (and maybe Scots) Ali experience! It's made even more "fun" if you have to tow a child who's not yet competent enough to skate themselves.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@mgrolf, yes fully agree! We even said at the time that we were very happy we had no friends children with us that would be needing a tow! Also at this point I was happy to be on skies, not a snowboard as it would have a walk!
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@thecramps, this looks a very familiar scene!
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You know it makes sense.
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So Sunday was more downhill skiing. We knew it was going to be windy and that not much would be open but having rented the skies and with an adventurous attitude we set off to Levi. It was much clearer than it had been for our whole trip so even the drive was very scenic with some really nice light. We parked at south point and did some loops on 8, 7 and 6. I really like the runs off lift number 6 as they are a bit longer than some, usually have really good snow and are generally very quiet. However, today we had planned ahead knowing it was unlikely we'd be able to ski across to the front slopes and back with the chairs being shut. We'd left some hot drinks and food in the car so skied back to south, had picnic lunch and then drove round to the front slopes in the centre of Levi for part 2. We skied the front slopes then all of the runs of lift 13 and 14 which were much more sheltered than elsewhere - we'd had the same comedy skate battles on the top of 7 and 8 as yesterday.
The light was still amazing so despite the wind and limited opening of the lifts we had a good time.
Sunday evening we went to Rouhe restaurant for dinner. It was very good. We had a sharing plate to start with (Rouhe boulders) and then we both had the reindeer fillet. On the walk to the restaurant and in the way back we spotted the northern lights. They were quite strong and active as they were easily visible from the centre of Äkäslompolo.
Last edited by You know it makes sense. on Mon 18-12-23 21:56; edited 1 time in total
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Monday was work in the morning and then a long-ish skate ski. Decided I had to do the loop around Ylläs tunturi at least once this trip. I went clockwise so out towards Kesankikeidas first before heading south on the eastern side of Yllös tunturi. The weather was clear-ish and around minus 10C and the tracks were in good condition. It was quite strange being back on cross country skis after 2 days on alpine skiing - I felt a bit wobbly to start with! The whole trip was 28 km and 367 m of climbing. It was pretty hard going towards the end as my legs were pretty tired and it just seems like a lot of up from Ylläs sports resort to the warm triangle / lamminkolmio. I had to stop quite a few times for a rest on that section and was glad of my hot drink and snacks I had taken with me. However, I averaged a pace of 5 minute 9 a kilometer so I was quite happy with that.
Tomorrow is our last full day here - hoping for one last xc ski trip.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Going to Levi early Feb. Flying into Helsinki on Saturday and visiting family before travelling up on Sunday, will ski mon-fri before driving back and seeing family on Sat before flying back on Sunday. Trying to justify round trip cost (approx €600) of train/car shuttle vs driving up. Any thoughts welcome.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@brovert, Have you done the Helsinki - Levi drive before? It is very long especially at that time of year. If you are the only driver its a bit of a mission to do it in a day. It is about 1000 km and probably is 12-13 hours of actual driving, mainly on A roads, so do-able in a day but not enjoyable. If there are 2 of you driving its not so bad. Personally if there is still space on the train, I'd take that option.
If you don't need a car when you are in Levi there is the train to Kolari plus bus to Levi option which might save a bit?
Or the trains to Rovaniemi can be a bit cheaper and then you only have a 2.5 hour drive to Levi?
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@snow_promise, great pics. I hope you didn't mind my camp pic in your trip report. Your descriptions just reminded me of that day. When the lights were strong, did you head out on the lake. We have got some amazing pics from the lake of the lights.
Have your feet continued to be ok?
And one more question. Though we have been there a few times, we don't know how easy or hard it is to get to Levi. Can we hire a car locally do you know? Or is there a bus? We haven't properly looked into it, and I am sure some of the answers are obvious, but if you have any knowledge it's welcome. Not that we are desperate to go to Levi. We like Äkäslompolo alot. But we wondered about going for a night this trip. We are in Äkäslompolo for 16 nights.
And this time I have been trying to learn Finnish. It's hard, but not as hard as I thought it would be. The worse thing is trying to remember words when I don't get practice. Today was my 230day streak on duolingo. OK, it's not amazing, but I really want to try. Finns have always been great to us when we have been there.
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It’s super easy to get there from Kittilä Airport (about a 15 minute drive to Levi, maybe 40 min to Ylläs), Kolari train station (45 minute drive to Ylläs, 1,5 hours to Levi) or Rovaniemi airport/train station (about 2 hour drive).
Kittilä Airport has an almost continuous flow of ski busses to both Levi and Ylläs. Ditto for Kolari train station, buses leave right about 15-30 minutes after a train arrives. Buses available also from Rovaniemi, however I’m unsure about their frequency.
As for rental cars, they are readily available from Kittilä and Rovaniemi, suspect not that much from Kolari - Finns tend to take their own car and unload it from the train over there.
Levi is manageable without a car, as the village is very centred. Staying at or near the village everything is walkable. Ylläs is more spread out so you’d have to take a ski bus to the lifts basically every day and possibly take quite a walk to the grocery store, if self-catered for an example.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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How much usable daylight do you get at this time of year?
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A hard working trip, @snow_promise, interesting to hear about something so different. Learning to ski in Scotland stood you in good stead!
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FAQ
