 Poster: A snowHead
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Calling all Annecy experts (and nearby)...
For late Jan 2024 I'm pondering visiting the French Aravis resorts (La Clusaz, Le Grand Bornand) plus those in the Bauges (some out of Le Feclaz, Le Grand Revard, Le Semnoz, Aillons, La Sambuy, also Areches-Beaufort to the east).
Starting to think about a central base to explore the area. Possibly Annecy, but what's traffic like at rush hour? Alternatively Faverges (if I can get accommodation) looks better traffic-wise as Annecy can be avoided, but direct access to the Aravis is via a wiggly pass north to Thônes - anyone know what that's usually like in winter?
Both Annecy and (especially) Faverges look to have reasonable access to resorts further east / south in case of the Bauges resorts having poor conditions, which I'm aware is a real risk at any time of year.
Alternatively it could be a split base trip with one half up towards La Clusaz. Then... where would you recommend for the second base?
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Thu 23-03-23 22:09; edited 3 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Hmm. I should know the answers to those questions better than I do. Annecy is generally an expensive option for accommodation. Ugine would probably be a lot cheaper, though it's a bit gritty, with its big steelworks. You could take in La Giettaz when you were up in La Clusaz area. The Col d'Aravis can be difficult in bad weather but not generally.
We skied several times at Areches-Beaufort. When we were first in Les Saisies, before the links across to Notre Dame to start the "Espace Diamant" were opened, you could get a 5 day pass for 80 euros, IIRC, which included up to 2 days in Saisies, up to 2 days in Areches and up to 2 days in Les Contamines. We enjoyed Areches though it tended to be perishingly cold. Most of the skis outside the restaurant were touring skis. You could hang your jacket on rails round the fire, take off your ski boots and borrow slippers which were kept in a big wicker basket by the fire. We really felt very ordinary and unadventurous with our piste skis and alpine bindings. Absolutely everybody was French. We felt foreign AND unadventurous. I think you'd enjoy Areches. It's beautiful up there in summer, up to the Cormet d'Areches.
Beaufort is a nice town, though cold in winter, down in that deep valley. The Cormet de Roseland, over to Bourg St Maurice, is obviously closed in winter. But if you were in that neck of the woods, from Beaufort, having gone south to Areches, you could go north, past Hauteluce, to access Les Contamines by the gondola up from Belleville. Easy journey, and an attractive one.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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When I have skied at Les Aillons I drove up from Chambery, no idea how quick a drive it is from Annecy.
From Faverges, I suspect it would be quicker to drive to Menthon then up to Thônes from there, I have driven that route.
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20 mins down the motorway Aix les Bains, in our experience, is a much nicer place to hang out than Annecy ...
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@denfinella, the col du Marais (Faverges - Thônes) is normally fine. It only sits at 800m-ish - def quicker to Thônes this way from Faverges unless there is a big low altitude snowfall.
Seythenex/La Sambuy is great if snow is good - some great off piste there if that is your thing, pistes not extensive if not but a nice feel to the place (though some rumours of it being 'for the axe' by the commune...  ). La Clusaz and Grand Bornand & Areches-Beaufort all great skiing and easy day trip from Faverges, can't comment on the other Bauges options (Semnoz etc). From Faverges the higher 'big' resorts are also within reasonable distance if it is a poor snow winter.
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As ops says at la Sambuy the chair lift is scheduled to be closed and the nordic ski area in the Tamie valley will go with it. You may be lucky next year.
Aillons has two ski areas, Mont Margeriaz is the main area in a rocky bowl, not bad for a day's skiing and Aillon le Jeune, which is also scheduled to be closed but it a bit more interesting when there is snow. Both good for touring with the backside of Mont Margeriaz having some extreme couloirs.
Planpalais seems to be shut now, a victim of climate change / changing tastes in skiing although it always seems to have snow being on a WNW col.
La Feclaz is small, charming but well, small. It is linked via shuttle bus to Le Revard which only just reopened its main chair les Ebats, this winter after a fire.
Avoid le Semnoz at the weekend or bank holiday as it is major busy and the road can get blocked. Again, it is very small but fantastic views to le Mont Blanc and into the Aix les Bains valley.
There is a drag at teh Col de Tamie but it is private and just for the Colonie des Vacances.
None of it is very exciting tbh, if you were learning Aillon Margeriaz would be idea but it gets busy. The nordic skiing at la Feclaz is excellent. All a bit of a schlepp from Annecy bar le Semnoz
I don't know the Aravis well. Montmin had/has a couple of drags. On the Aravis backside le Rafforts is quite interesting with a super long drag and some good pistes. It is supposed to be the cheapest ski area in the Alps but quite a few places claim that title. Along with Montmin it serves the Ugine crowd. BTW don't stay in Ugine, Faverges is a nice bet.
Route de Thones is ok, generally a wide road and not steep and unless it snows unlikely to have any snow on it as it is not high.
In the north Mont Saxonnex is also for the chop. Quite a nice ski area but too expensive to run.
Solaison has long since shut up shop. Nice for cross country.
I used to ski Orange with the totster but again, it has closed.
Cordon I don't know
le Reposoir generally has good snow but is small.
Then the big two la Clusaz and le Grand Bornand - lots of info elsewhere on those.
My son just spend two days in Areches, this is what he thought: https://pistehors.com/20mRgIYBsDqi-Lmiv8f3/areches-beaufort-beaufortain-france
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Interesting to read about Areches - the gondola must have made a big difference - before, you could only go one way between the two area. But it was a very long time ago I was there!!
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Thank you all. Seems like Faverges could work as a base.
As for the skiing, all good for La Clusaz, Le Grand Bornand and Areches-Beaufort. However it sounds like financial problems at some of the Bauges ski areas could limit the scope of this massif, in addition to their dodgy snow record. I've also done a bit more research and found that some of them are only properly open on weekends and Wednesdays, so visiting several over a week would be problematic. Aillons Le Jeune have also removed their top chairlift.
Small resorts are nice but only up to a point, especially when visiting from a long way away!
So... maybe a 2-centre trip: La Clusaz or nearby, plus somewhere a bit further south than Faverges so we can dip into some of the bigger resorts to the south as well as Areches-Beaufort?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| denfinella wrote: |
| Thank you all. Seems like Faverges could work as a base. |
it will if you find accomodation - the Annecy lake seems very poorly served as a tourist destination compared to say, the lakes of Italy.
As OPS said, la Sambuy is worth it (if open) on a powder day.
I'm not sure the Bauges resorts bring you a lot for a road trip, as you seem to have concluded with the exception of Aillons Margeriaz.
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I have lived and worked around the greater Annecy are a few times (Cruseilles 3 months, Doussard 3 times 4 months).
Faverges is very dimly viewed by the locals, and like @pam_w says, Ugine is a bit of a hole too.
If you're just looking for a base thats down the road from Annecy, even though Talloires is a bit fancy schmancy, Menthon SB would be my choice.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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thanks for the link @pam_w
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There's a lakeside restaurant, Le Chalet du Port, which is often open, just nearby, with free parking - and public toilets. I've stopped there often on the way to and from Geneva airport (that eastern side of the Lake is a much more pleasant drive than the west side).
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You know it makes sense.
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O-o-hhh, I've got east-side-of-Lac d'Annecy withdrawal symptoms.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@Hurtle, you've spoken before of rowing at Menthon, but when I've been there there has never been any sign of those nice-looking rowing boats being available for hire. There are lots of little motor boats "sans permis" (i.e. very slow and boring) rentable for very expensive money at Annecy but I'd love to row out from Menthon one day, with a wicker hamper of cucumber sandwiches with the crusts cut off. Perhaps in a muslin dress with a parasol, if I can persuade someone else to row. Just need to look out for storms which can blow up on that lake in a twinkling of an eye.
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Poster: A snowHead
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@pam w, we rowed from Talloires. And at that time (we're talking about a long time ago) there was a simple, lakeside resto close to where the boats could be hired, which did delicious omelettes. My only problem with the rowing boats was that I used to get motion sick in the wake of the pleasure boats. 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Quote: |
My only problem with the rowing boats was that I used to get motion sick in the wake of the pleasure boats.
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Oh dear. Perhaps I should try Talloires for rowing. Menthon is so much more convenient with plenty of free parking and a lovely walk along the lake to the "plage". It's often surprisingly warm down there by the lake, even when there's still skiing up in the mountains. I have sat by the lake with skiing friends on their way back to Gva, eating ice creams in the sun - a super end to a ski holiday.
Sigh.......
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@davidof, Les Rafforts didn't open at all this winter, staff problems, doesn't look to be any snow now anyway on that side of the Arly valley.
The La Feclaz club were training in Crest-Voland in January, guessing because of lack of snow. There is a Beaufortain-Val d'Arly-Bauges grouping of clubs that may be another reason for it.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| rjs wrote: |
| @davidof, Les Rafforts didn't open at all this winter, staff problems. |
#brexitdividend
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Semnoz is really tiny and probably not worth a full or even half day, we have popped up to get a couple of hours in on way to/from airport but better options close by. The kebab shop in Ugine usually has some cheap day ski pass vouchers for various days of the week if you end up that way, La Sambuy, Areches Beaufort and some of Arly resorts from memory, bit further away Valmorel also does some flash sales with 15 or 20 euro tiks throughout the season
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Ah yes, that stirs memories, there used to be quite cheap pass deals for Areches Beaufort on the back of supermarket till receipts sometimes.
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We're just finishing up our Winter in Menthon - - my 2 boys attend the Clos Chevalier Middle School (just below the castle) and start at 8:30 - I've been able to get on the mountain on the mountain by 9:15 (la clusaz).
As others have said, Menthon is really really nice - close enough to Annecy, Skiing (les saisies or Megeve is about an hour or so away - so is Brides les Bains), and Menthon has a back door to the freeway to Geneva (driving toward Thones, but turning left after Alex)
For airport runs, I prefer going "the back way", so that I don't have to deal with any Annecy traffic - - I swear, I found it most frustrating any time I had to drive through - or even go into "town" (Annecy). It's just not made for driving across in a car - you could probably get across by bike, much faster, at times.
It's a lovely place, Annecy - don't get me wrong - - but I think I would have gotten really frustrated if we had decided to live there.
As for skiing - without traffic, you can get from the east side of the lake to La Clusaz in under 30 minutes without traffic - we had hired a locker for the season so our ski day ritual was to wake up early and try to be on the first chair/gondola up - - some days we only skied until 1pm or so, especially in February - - but those morning hours were glorious... Arriving by 8:30-8:45am, we never encountered any traffic at all - even in Feb and very light crowds up top, until mid day - - then it became a bit of a mess.
We almost signed a lease for a house in Sevrier, on the west side of the lake -- that would also have been a big mistake -- for me, getting to the ski slopes from the west side would have added an extra 20 minutes without traffic - or more - ... so if you can find a place east side, or even north east of Annecy le Vieux, like Argonay - - that would work just fine - not pretty or charming, or lake side - - but you'd be very close stiking distance to Annecy/Geneva/La Clusaz, etc...
Sorry if my writing is poor / the thunder and lightning tonight has me a bit rattled..! Hope that all makes sense/helps.
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Good to hear from you again, @US_EU. How did your boys get on in school - and on the slopes?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@pam w
Hi Pam - - I have to say, I've been thinking about you a lot - your posts have "spoken" to me - especially your fondness for Les Saisies - - we really like it there - especially because of how well the snow was kept when La Clusaz' snow faltered.
My boys LOVE their little school - (Thank You for asking) - they fit right in and hit the ground running. It will be difficult to leave - their lycee in Spain goes all they way through "terminal" - - so the especially love being among the older kids of the school... lol. Next year my oldest will have graduated and moved on to the college in Thones (if we return)... but we have had such a marvelous time, and the people have been so kind -- I could easily see us coming back.. (so I'm going to keep my landlord's info a secret for the moment!!!  )
I've also seen you refer fondly to San Cassiano... I've never been to the Dolomites... but I now value your opinion...! I'll have to put it on my list.
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Snowheads has been responsible for introducing lots of people - including me - to the Dolomites. Such world beating scenery, and lots of great skiing for somebody like me who is no longer seeking a "challenge" (if I ever did). Given its low altitude, Les Saisies is pretty unbeatable for snow - I'm crossing fingers there'll still be enough for our family holiday there in the first week of April. Looks wet and horrible tonight, like most everywhere else.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@US_EU,
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We almost signed a lease for a house in Sevrier, on the west side of the lake -- that would also have been a big mistake -
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We rented a gite years ago in Sevrier, for a week in late spring/early summer, and kept getting stuck in traffic jams even then.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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The whole of that road down the west coast of the lake has nothing to commend it.
Very busy, very built up, few good views of the lake. The only times I've driven up it, in years, is because of going to the bike hire place south of Sevrier. The other side is preferable in every way. I suppose I should shut up about it, really!
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@US_EU, lovely to hear it's been working out for you!
@alasdair.graham, @pam w, I'll make a note about lift pass discounts, thanks.
Sounds like I should definitely give Annecy a miss re. accommodation base.
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You know it makes sense.
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| pam w wrote: |
The whole of that road down the west coast of the lake has nothing to commend it.
Very busy, very built up, few good views of the lake. The only times I've driven up it, in years, is because of going to the bike hire place south of Sevrier. The other side is preferable in every way. I suppose I should shut up about it, really! |
Not if you are on bicycle, it is flat and there is a cyclepath.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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lol - I was just reading about Faverges, when I got an email that you had responded - @denfinella, can I ask, how did you decide on this location/place as a base?
I really think you may be on to something -- housing prices look very agreeable - and while you're not in a resort, per se, you're kind of half way to a lot of really great places.
I mean, for me, I'd rather spend a bit of time commuting and have a really nice and comfy home life for my family and me, AND have access to a wide range of ski (within an hour), rather than paying a lot more for much less... but you'd have a short drive to a second tier resort (sorry, La Clusaz - it's not you; it's me)
I'd be curious to learn more about Faverges. Good for you., I say..!
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@US_EU, I haven't decided on it yet! I'm leaning more towards a split-base trip, which might eliminate Faverges.
My research always starts with browsing a decent map - and Faverges stood out location-wise. Obviously that doesn't tell you anything about what it's like to live there.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@davidof, yes, the cycle path is very nice - that's why I went to that place near Sevrier several times and hired one! But for driving the other side wins every time. Especially as they've presumably now finished the road works associated with the east side cycle path.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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On the cycle path it's an easy ride to Ugine.....
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Update on this - I've gone a bit further south and booked a place close to the N90 between Albertville and Aigueblanche. Faverges no longer on the cards, as I saw an offer I couldn't refuse! This puts the Tarentaise resorts in range but relegates the Bauges areas to the "unlikely" list. It'll be a split base trip, with a few days up near La Clusaz beforehand.
Next question: anyone know about day lift pass promotions (nearer to the time obviously) for any of the following:
- Le Grand Bornand
- Areches-Beaufort?
- Sainte-Foy (remember reading something about supermarket receipts...)
La Clusaz and Pralognan la Vanoise have dynamic pricing. Valmorel has a weekend offer.
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