 Poster: A snowHead
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I have just discovered to my horror that my beloved Salomon Lumens have very suddenly delaminated at the front of both skis. I was literally packing them away for the summer a couple of weeks ago when I noticed it, even though I had used them that day. I checked them over and there is clear wear and tear on the tips where I am guessing the moisture had a way in and that day was a slush fest, so moisture everywhere. Getting to the point, I have had these skis for about 5 years now and I understand that's just the way it goes, and they are way past warranty, etc but does anyone have any advice/fixing suggestions to glue them to give them a bit more life, or maybe I just have to except its the end of the line for them? In anyone's experience/knowledge how long do you reckon I could ski on delaminated skis before they completely die? As you can see I am new to this side of a ski's life so forgive the naivety, any suggestions/advice are welcomed!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@SnowVic, depending on how bad it is you should be able to fix it, make sure the area (and inside) is very very dry, get some flexible epoxy (pretty sure @spyderjon sells the right stuff) open up the split and get some glue into it then clamp it together and leave for 48 hours for the glue to cure properly, cover as much of the surrounding area with tape so you aren't trying to get glue off the rest of the ski, and use a bit of heat to get the glue really runny so it goes into the slightest gaps
good luck
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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£2.50 to buy, £2.50 postage !!!
Do they sell this stuff in DIY stores?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@geoffers, …ah…I have the identical Mai Tai’s (female version but identical in everything apart from graphics …excellent ski - and as a male I don’t mind the graphics…) which did a significant de-lam at the tail this season - first day of Easter two week break. They do seem to be a bit brittle there. For mine, I spotted it early…about a 2cm by 1cm delam, and it’s not an area of flex so it was ‘out with the trad two-component epoxy’. That worked fine - quick set epoxy and hold the layers together; then file and sand the next morning.
Like the brutal rivet approach. Very steampunk. Will employ if the problem recurs.
What I worry about more is the sidewall and edge separation which is referred to above - I stupidly left some skis on the roofrack overnight in the garage in CH - big corrosion on the edges, and I know that the expansion of Ferrous Oxide and/or aluminium oxide can cause a micro separation of the edge from the base, and worse, in an area of considerable flex. At best, you can see a small gap (+-0,5mm) open between the edge and base - impossible to do anything about it in a simple and easy way.
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I've got some Red Stars, one has delaminated along both edges between the edge and the sidewall and the other at the tail. I assume that the tail is repairable as above but the sidewall is terminal?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@captainslow, …if you can post a photo then the community here can take a look. But in my experience it is usually pretty terminal. Skis can stagger on with significant delamination for a long time though. We have some Salomon Streetracers in the CH garage which are just disgraceful - massive separation at the tail, nasty gap between edge and base on the sides. They just go on and on. I have seen a number of people with edges spiralling off under the bindings. Nasty and sharp in my view, but they are using them as rock skis and seem to get away with it.
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| Quote: |
| nasty gap between edge and base on the sides |
my old Sentinels also have some gap-age between the top-sheet & edge: wasn't so concerned about structural strength, more about water ingress so ran some hot-melt glue into the gap to attempt a seal, as it's pretty sticky & flexible.
They don't owe me anything, are brilliant skis as a backup pair when conditions are a bit iffy, and just refuse to die 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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valais2 I'll post up once the super / mega subscription clears admins bank account, until then the post image button is blocked. I'll keep them as rock skis on the off chance I make it to weardale.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Obviously a competent repair with materials detailed on Pistoffice site is desirable, if the structure is in decent shape to carry this out.
With damage that may be realistically out of range for longer term repair, then as above with ad hoc attention it can be practical to keep them going for some while.
This https://www.lomo.co.uk/acatalog/Stormsure-Flexible-Repair-Adhesive-5g-4-pack.html is a decent choice for creeping into cracks to seal them and prevent further decay if that's a route you choose. Essentially a slow cure "super" adhesive, CA based but with long cure and mousture proof flexible final product. You need to clamp it the same as an epoxy repair (overnight) to make it effective, very resilient thereafter.
Also very useful for many other applications.
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| Layne wrote: |
£2.50 to buy, £2.50 postage !!!
Do they sell this stuff in DIY stores? |
How much do you think postage costs? How much to get to a DiY store?
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You know it makes sense.
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@holidayloverxx, …er..a fiver to save a pair of 400gbp+ skis … seems fair …
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Great advice here, thanks everybody. I've ordered some of the epoxy recommended. Let's see how it goes!
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Poster: A snowHead
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| holidayloverxx wrote: |
| Layne wrote: |
£2.50 to buy, £2.50 postage !!!
Do they sell this stuff in DIY stores? |
How much do you think postage costs? How much to get to a DiY store? |
Not just postage, packaging too and time.
As mentioned a very reasonable price to salvage a pair of skis - less than the cost of a pint.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I think what really matters after pre-prep of the area is using the correct flexible slow cure type of epoxy .
Otherwise your going to mess it up and have to redo the repair (with the 1st cheaper hard epoxy making it hard work) .
The flexible Araldite 2011 may seem costly but 2011 is the right one to use if you value your work/effort.
What Im unsure of is.... has Araldite 2011 packaging changed ...it seems like it may have and 2011 is now called Standard ?
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Fri 13-05-22 1:09; edited 2 times in total
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| Tirol 164 wrote: |
| ........What Im unsure of is.... has Araldite 2011 packaging changed ...it seems like it may have and 2011 is now called Standard ? |
Yep
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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what about Araldite 2015 or Araldite 2020? 2020 needs heat to get it to cure in any reasonable time but its so thin it draws into cracks like water would.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| captainslow wrote: |
| what about Araldite 2015 or Araldite 2020? 2020 needs heat to get it to cure in any reasonable time but its so thin it draws into cracks like water would. |
Both usable but neither are available in small/cheap enough tubes for the DIY ski/board repairer so unless you're using them for other applications they're not worth it. 2011/Standard goes nice and runny when gently warmed to get in to the nooks'n'crannies. I've got heated clamps so I can cure 2011/Standard in 15-30mins versus the usual 24-36hrs cure time at room temp.
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