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Protecting skis on a roof rack (2), snowHeads ski forum
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Protecting skis on a roof rack

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I regularly have to deal with skis whose idiot owners have driven unprotected on the roof to the Alps and back. I have a wooden wedge type door stop in my shop that I use in conjuction with a mallet to separate skis that have rust-welded themselves together where the tips'n'tails touch! The p-tex bases aren't an issue at all and even the most heavily rusted edges with look great after a mega grind but you're going to loose a lot of life from the ski. It's the internal damage to the bindings that's the issue.

The most important thing is that the skis/binding are protected (cling film is fine) and that they are fully dried out before packing.

Do NOT put any type of oil/solvent/WD40/vaseline anywhere near the bases/edge/bindings. Just because someone's done it without issue doesn't mean it's ok. Modern ski bindings all use captive PG75 grease which is excellent but it doesn't like being mixed with anything else so please don't go squirting anything in there. Zardoz on edges is fine but just drying everything properly is all that needs to be done.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
That’s definitive from a leading voice in the industry.

The ‘fully dried out’ recommendation is in bold for a very good reason. I know of one person who packed skis in bags in resort straight after getting back to accommodation, forgot to unpack them when returning and left them for a year. The moisture trapped in the bag turned the skis into a mass of corrosion and mould.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Mine always went in bags on the ski rack ..I couldnt stand the flapping eith so I put bungees round each bag...then I bought a roof box ...much better
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@DaveD, ....ah ha...you and MANY more people than in the past...we noticed a lot more roof boxes this year and I almost began to suffer from roofbox envy. Temporary envy only, since we immediately remembered that Barzettes underground car park has a 2.1 metre restriction, Leukerbad 1.9m, Stephanie 2.0m and we saw a Volvo careering around Stephanie smashing into everything above it....(see last month’s comedy thread).
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@spyderjon, Thanks for that advice.

The beauty of skiing in Scandinavia is that we always have a sauna, and after we have had ours on the last night, we put our skis in it (turned off, residual warmth only). Dries them a treat.
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valais2 wrote:
That’s definitive from a leading voice in the industry.

The ‘fully dried out’ recommendation is in bold for a very good reason. I know of one person who packed skis in bags in resort straight after getting back to accommodation, forgot to unpack them when returning and left them for a year. The moisture trapped in the bag turned the skis into a mass of corrosion and mould.


Certainly agree with that view and people looking into this topic would be wise to follow the advice.

From an interest point of view (maybe it's too far into the subject for this thread though) PG75 is a mineral oil grease. Constituting of mineral oil, PAO oil (highly refined mineral oil base stock, otherwise identified as "synthetic" on motor oil) and lithium for "soaping" which is the part which makes it like butter and not run away as soon as you've turned your back. That's in most grease facing metals in applications. The PAO content is the more costly part having characteristics that allow wide temperature variation stability, along with flow at extended low temperature (helps the bindings to achieve target torque release within tight range over wide temperature use) essentially the same as synthetic engine oil but with addition of lithium to make is stay where you put it.

https://www.chempoint.com/products/dupont/molykote-greases/molykote-mo-pao-greases/molykote-pg-75-plastislip most general lubricants are derivatives of mineral oil in various guises, which are often sold at elevated cost in small containers to special interest groups "sram butter" anyone ? For those of mtb interest.

The plastics themselves are ultimately from crude oil, also most ski wax used over the years, as essentially parrafinic and solid at normal temps. These all closely related in origin.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
I’d personally use a ski bag and should not flap if you compress / tie down each end of the bags. If naked then just wash them down in the shower when you reach your destination. There is more than likely chance as we head into spring that autoroutes will not be gritted and there may be rain on route.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@ski3, ...actually fascinating detail. SRAM Butter indeed eye-watering but I also use Molykote (various) in some applications and that’s pretty eye-watering too eg MolyK33.
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@valais2, yes an interesting field is lubrication. I know Jon makes a serious point about using unquantified products in this scenario, but certainly corrosion is something to be avoided if at all possible. First line practical avoidance is obviously the best corse to prevent and hopefully not need anything special to best preserve the original integrity.

It will literally take the skis apart if propogated fully, making any argument about oil completely academic. Classic case in mtb/bikes in general is aluminium seat post stuck in frame, can be recoverable, but will usually scrap the post at leaest and maybe a good frame too. Nothing more than left damp and corrosion doing the rest, it's highly potent in it's reach.
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@ski3, ...ah the electrolytically welded seat post.

With four remedies.

1 put seat post in vice and turn frame. BANG, it's out....(or not)
2 cut with hacksaw vertically and chisel out (mind the frame....)
3 dissolve with caustic (nasty nasty stuff)
4 time travel (go back in time and grease it before you insert the post)
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