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El Tarter, Andorra; pre-Christmas 2021

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Many thanks to snowheads on my preparations thread; now I’m here I start a new one Smile.

Haven’t been skiing for 2 years and daughter will do GCSEs this summer, so Feb/Easter is out. So I took the risk to drive from Portugal to El Tarter, Andorra, our usual destination, hearing there were no border restrictions. It proved to be the case. No negative tests needed, but we’ve been showing our EU Covid certificates in several places. Under the Portuguese system our 13+15 year olds are double jabbed. I’d worried that our Janssen jabs were too old (more than 6 months; they are 6 months and 2 weeks and our boosters aren’t showing yet) but the barcodes bleep green.

Also fearing last minute cancellation/border problems, I booked an apartment with free cancellation up to 3 days before (P&V via Booking.com), and didn’t book passes or kit until arrival. Wanted to hire on Soldeu.com as usual but looks like they don’t do same day hire, only 3 days ahead. So I just walked up to the usual shop and paid, no discount. Man maths says I didn’t have a ski holiday last year so I can afford it Smile

Compared to our usual period, Carnival week, there are a lot fewer people here. After the huge dumps last week, snow nice on Day 1, though some deep sides were actually crispy/ hard rather than soft.

Prices at El Tarter pizzeria by ski school higher than I remember, about 14-16 euros for a pizza or pasta dish. But very tasty. Had to show Covid pass to get in. They wanted reservation number but perhaps as we were so early (1230) we got space.

Aberset has gone? Demolished, and some sort of block, maybe small hotel? Now the party area has moved to the Manacor supermarket opposite Espunyes.

Two years ago my 15yo was taught by the snowhead max.makinson in Switzerland for a week while 13yo stayed at home. He’s done well, I now see 15yo is way better, possibly better than me, so we now have a real skills mismatch in the family, as 13yo wants more than mum will tolerate, but not as much as 15yo. In Andorra we cannot use mobiles on the slopes, stupid tariffs, so there is now a supervision challenge. 13yo has also got boarding into her head and sulked this afternoon on skis as she couldn’t learn boarding (no-one else around, being a beginner is boring). This could be our last holiday in Andorra; if we go to ES/FR Pyrenees, everyone can go at their own pace and keep in touch by phone. Usually we use walkie talkies but despite me putting them out and charging them, SOMEONE forgot to pack them…

I notice the light too, I’m not used to it getting dark so early, or the low sun. Several runs in shade even at midday. I thought I should quit at 3.15!

Got my wife another ski jacket (her sixth?! I’ve had 2) tonight; Spyder Gore Tex Infinium. Looks a good one. Hope it answers her needs for just a few days.

Ah it’s so nice to be back on the snow in a happy relaxing family holiday… I think today there were short tempers from bad nights sleep previously. Will see what we can sort out tomorrow.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Masks seem to be respected in shops and restaurants, I haven’t seen much on open chairlifts but we have face warmer ski masks anyway.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Excellent
Enjoy
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Got out late this morning, the family slept too well. Booked a 3 day group boarding school for D2 from tomorrow so she is happy. 3x3h, adult price, €128. For info, our lift passes were €252 for 5 days adults, €225 for teens. Ski and boot rentals for 5 days, “gold” level, is €144 per person at Nordic Esport, with 4 days locker rentals at €40; a locker takes 4 skis and boots (just) but not 3 and a snowboarder now find!

A lot more people today. Someone was told to put a mask on as he got on a lift at the base. They don’t seem very strict on that TBH. Checking passes in all eateries though.

Not a cloud in the sky. Temps are minus at night but definitely plus at 1pm, so snow goes from hard to soft in shade or light. Definite thaw by afternoon, dripping off roofs. Several runs not open as there is not enough snow on them. On several runs there is a nice layer of soft stuff on top then scrapy hardpack underneath.

Had a high speed wipeout racing my daughters. Blue run, but at that speed a dip became a launch ramp and I don’t know how to land. Not vertically anyway; my back stood in as a convenient substitute at short notice. No real harm done and they found it hilarious. I’m feeling it a bit this evening, like someone gave me a whack in the kidney with a plank wrapped in a blanket. Dropped down a short steep black, they always look steeper from the top than from the chair don’t they? we survived. Knee playing up too, support tomorrow. D2 got hit by someone, shock and tears for 3 minutes but more a blow to confidence. Swapped her skis for a board tonight.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Jesus

Stay safe

The future’s bright, the future’s Orange Eh oh!


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Tue 21-12-21 13:53; edited 1 time in total
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Monday. Oooh, stiff and creaky. Late up again… Got to ET chairlift about 9.20; one of every 5 chairs had someone on it, deserted. D2 and I went to bubble as she can’t ride a board. Bubble was being managed, I think max 4 occupants unless you were a group.

It seems that all cafes in GV have a central Wi-Fi so once you log in on one, you are automatically logged in at others. Nice touch.

Not much to report today. Another sunny day. D2 happy with her boarding lesson. D1 says “I think I’d like to learn boarding.” Grrr… Wife supervised D2 on the beginner slopes after lunch while D1 and I wandered round the mountain, dropping down the black Trencalos a couple of times. One of the main long lifts wasn’t working so I still didn’t dare getting over to Grau Roig. Maybe tomorrow. Perhaps I was more cautious (achey) after yesterday’s misadventure.

Went shopping at Pyrenees in Andorra la Vella, as wife saw they sold an accessory she wanted. Horrible traffic at 1900, and not impressed with the shops to be honest.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
So far no one has asked for a Covid certificate to ski, neither buying passes, nor getting on lifts. Now in Grau Roig Italian restaurant; no need for CC to order pizza outside, unlike El Tarter. The red from the top of Grau Roig/PdlC down to GR base is perfect for building confidence for fast descents, smooth but still soft snow, not scrapy yet. Unfortunately everyone else seems to have discovered this too… D1 is loving it, we’ve done 3-4x in a row before early lunch. No need for reservations here too it seems.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
I'm loving hearing about your nice relaxed proper family ski holiday. It sounds idyllic and makes me keep my fingers crossed for my own on February.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Thanks @olderscot, as @Mike Pow said, I get a lot from this site, it’s only fair I give back, whether data or entertainment!

Tuesday afternoon was eventful. After lunch at GR pizzeria, I came out to find one of my rented ski poles missing. Near the edge of the rack, I wonder if a passerby had dropped one off a lift and borrowed a nearby substitute. I was tempted to pass the problem on to the next skis in the rack but didn’t, I have some belief in karma. So I had an afternoon of skiing with one or no poles, examining the drills of holding out in front of me horizontally, or holding two hands out and doing a real pole plant with one and a fake plant with the other. This showed the importance of technique, mindset and fitness. With all, I skied nearly as well as with two poles. But if I got worried/ lazy/ tired and leaned back a bit or didn’t commit to the turn, I got punished. Then I had to emergency brake with legs, which then got tired faster… you get the picture. Knee bandage working really well luckily. I still wonder honestly how much poles are still needed with shaped skis - but I aired that POV here once already!

Still had a great time repeating that red, daughter getting faster than me each time. She said “if only I could stop faster I’d be a demon”. So I showed her what Stuart taught me in Banff (see other TR), body like a C, shoulders pointing downhill, hips/butt slightly into the hill at the end of the turn to scrub off excess speed, like sitting sideways on a stool. Her eyes lit up, and she was gone to me from then on. Anyway the cafe had just played Katrina’s Walking On Sunshine, with which I have very positive ski memories, so I was going downhill faster and happier with that in my head.

Crashed once down a wide fast red, nearly on the flat; slowing down on a straight but perhaps not fully engaged , I caught an inside edge, spun and flipped backwards. Helmet protected the back of my head as it hit the snow. No harm, just a slap across the confidence again! I wonder how much my rented boots are too loose; I’ve never had a fitting and don’t know how much movement there should be, maybe they are too floppy for precise control? it looks like a good candidate on which to blame my poor technique Smile

We got back to the bunny slope to meet D2, and D1 misconcentrated and flipped over. She may now be faster, better and braver than me, but I am now taking all possible opportunities to remind her that she crashed on a green run…

Daughter 2 happy with her second boarding lesson, proudly says she now rides chairs and even skied down at the end of the day, with few falls (her head ached a bit after a full somersault though!! Apparently fell forward, then kept going!).

Found they do indeed issue walk in Covid certificates at medical center below ET gondola, thanks for that tip in the other thread. Never been there before, we always use the chairlift to go up! I don’t know which I need to get back into PT; will update details tomorrow.

Snow still fine. Boarding instructor said it was the best season start for 20 years or more. A bit more cloudy today. Still several lifts and runs closed, but as you can read, enough open to keep us busy!
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Bad luck about the pole @Orange200, I had to ski on Sunday without any poles (long story) and as you found it it certainly tests the technique especially short turns!
My son rented some boots from the bottom of the gondola in Soldeu and they had him stand on a 3d scanner which then recommended a pair of boots for him. Another time it may be worth looking for something similar as he says the fit seems very good.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
3d scanner - whoah, cool!!
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
It was very cool, the recommended boot fitter in the area is
https://esportscubil.com/ who are just down the road from you they use a 3d scanner and supposedly give excellent service
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Many thanks! I remember that name. I shouldn’t treat myself now - last day of skiing tomorrow, no time to fine tune if they rub - but it’s here for next time Eh oh!
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@Orange200, on the keeping in contact front, you could, if you really wanted to come back to Andorra, get eSims. Andorra Telecom do them for tourists. I think they are pay as you go.

I think the closed runs are down to the wind when we had the dump of snow last weekend. That and I think that not all season workers are in place yet. I think things will ramp up in the next week. Still I’ve found that most closed runs have an alternative that runs parallel to it.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Well as Vinny Jones once said, it’s been emotional, the last day of skiing. Actively decided not to get another pole to beat my technique into shape. The technique nearly won; went to Grau Roig and got the fears, couldn’t do anything right on the way down. End of second descent I was seriously thinking of quitting before injury, mojo totally gone. But then I remembered the technique of singing while skiing, where the mind has no room for the song AND the fear, and gradually got better. D1 simply unstoppable by now. Left GR in order to get back to the ET school by 1pm to see D2 and wife. Arrived on time to hear D2 had gone down to medical centre after banging her butt and the shock going up her spine into her head ; wife went for her while we had lunch. Handed back equipment, I was charged €7 for lost ski pole. After 2 hours of various exams including x ray, and a big bill, D2 was prescribed rest and ibuprofen. Got our Covid RA tests while there at €25 per person; walk up, 15 min wait for results.

TBH after a great holiday it has left a bitter taste in my mouth that while she had an accident under the supervision of an instructor in a class, resulting in a €350 medical bill, the ski school considered they had no responsibility to pay the bill. “No because most of our clients have insurance. When you bought the lift ticket you were offered insurance. “. I tried to explain about supervisory responsibility but it kept coming back to “no because most clients have insurance”. Apparently there is a legal link there that I with two law degrees can’t see. We were tired and I couldn’t be bothered to argue or write a complaint. If they said it was because I signed the terms of the lessons which excluded liability I could accept that immediately. Probably that’s the case; CBA to look. Probably I suck it up and accept offers of insurance next time.

Anyway with that and D2 in a foul mood needing solid sleep, ie not in her sister’s bed, a quick check on the web and we decided to break for the border, we didn’t use our final night in the apartment. Found a nice hotel in Lleida, arrived at 2230, huge rooms and beds for €100, we get a luxury sleep and good breakfast then only 9 not 12 hours driving tomorrow, and all motorway no wiggly bits until 5 mins from home.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
@Orange200, sorry to hear of your last day woes. It's never good when someone gets injured particularly a child, hopefully she will bounce back. Are you going to ski any more this season?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Thanks, I think she’s bounced back already Very Happy wouldn’t shut up for 150km! Always amazing, the power of a good night’s sleep. That hotel room and the beds were massive. Just approaching Madrid now.

We have only ever once skied twice in a season, and I mentioned D1 has GCSEs approaching, so highly unlikely. But never say never!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@Orange200, sorry to hear about the accident.

An Easter trip might be a great pre-GCSE warm up. Long sunny days - skiing in the morning/mid afternoon revising a few hours each evening!
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@Orange200, are there any restaurants you recommend? Everywhere I’ve stopped at so far on the mountain have been a bit disappointing! In typical Andorran style most seem to be owned by the lift company and not independently run. That said, I know Burger Brothers has a place on the mountain, I’ve just not been to that yet (and I live about 100m from one of their restaurants anyway!).
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
I had a nice 'last' meal in Huskies over at Pas on Sunday.
Certainly worth the trip over but it wasn't cheap at €60 for 3

Other than that everyone raves about Pessons I have only ever stopped for coffee but it is considered a must by people who like their food. You will need to book if you want a table....
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I’d meant to tag you too @pieman666. Yes the off mountain food in Pas seems quite reasonable. I had a decent meal in a place called La Camarguaise in Pas the other week - similarly priced to Huskies I think.

I’ll have a look at Pessons.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@hammerite, sorry we’re not big foodies; for me lunch is a tasty refuel rather than a pleasurable event in itself. Very British and I’m sure I’d be re-educated after a couple of weeks in France; but I can’t help you there Smile
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@Orange200, don’t worry, I’m the same. I’m out to ski, not spend hours eating. I just want to avoid a lukewarm pizza slice and a pasta meal that resembles a pot noodle! Which is what I’ve experienced so far.

I’m used to Austria where you tend to get good, decent quality food, served quickly, pretty much everywhere!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
The pasta we had in the trattoria by ET beginner slopes was fine for us. Despite teenager pleas I refuse to eat outside in the sun with the view, as the meal goes cold in seconds!


Well we’re back; arrived back at 20.30 so still time to shoot out to local supermarket and grab fresh essentials for the next days. Absolutely no check at the ES-PT border so that’s another €100 for tests that wasn’t necessary. As above, I write off these costs knowing we didn’t ski last year and reading of the problems others have this year.

Driving 10 hours was an experience, even with a great sleep in a hotel before. And the full journey is 12.5h. That would be horrible going there, with the twisty bits at the end. Will see how we feel about it next time, for the return.

Wife has come down with a cold and in bed for 3 days; shouldn’t be Covid as we had those tests done!

As above, next time will be different. The girls are too big to share a bed, and I’d like them to have independence by phones so they can go by themselves. (Elder commented several times on the fun of skiing with friends). A local SIM is one idea but we could also try Formigal etc to keep EU roaming. At least the upgrades to the car since last time - much quieter tyres, and HID lights - made the journey less tiring than before, I’m pleased with those.

This was also the first family ski holiday pre-Christmas and I’m not sure what to think. It has always been half term or Easter. I did feel it was very short, even if only five days instead of six, and I struggled to find any rhythm before it was nearly time to go again! The low light at midday also threw me, contributing to the “short” feeling. OTOH we didn’t get up early, our fault, and this could be a solution to not taking a week out during the coming years stressful revision periods (half term, Easter) for our teens. The only question there is the snow; this was fine for us, but I understand we were really lucky this year, and how much do I want to commit my only holiday to a place with iffy snow cover? And if I want to lengthen it by a few days, the slopes will be really crowded; or I leave work, and take girls out of school, earlier.

I feel this family is at a turning point in our ski holidays. I wonder where we’ll turn Smile.
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As a child around 40 years ago we always went skiing at Christmas. Easier to get two weeks in the snow and saved a load of money in Christmas presents/meals. Now if course people have caught up and it will be busier but my son reports that's is been busy but not crazy busy up the mountain with maybe a five minute queue at the pinch points in Grandvaleria.
We always used to drive as well which looking back at it was brutal for my father as we always did it non stop both ways! I really must thank him for that...
When I'm back on the slopes ( just had a negative LFT so fingers crossed for tomorrow) I'll report back on the crouds although this year is going to be odd as a lot of package holidays have been cancelled...
As to getting up early as my wife always reminds me it's a holiday not a boot camp so what if you get up later you can ski a bit later in the day and eat later so you miss the crouds.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Smile

The one other thing I notice (and I write as this is an aide memoire for future) is now D1 is faster and fitter and crucially bolder than me, and as she grows to late teens while I grow to late 50s, the gap will only increase! D2 not yet as she moved to boarding, and I might yet return to that as a change. They should also ski more with school friends, but Covid… so we might just all diverge to specialist classes. D1 is talking about race school and I’d be interested in park tricks so I’m more in control over uneven terrain.

Fun times Smile
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@pieman666, good luck with the testing!
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@Orange200, thanks.
Skiing with your children is one of life's best pleasures but as you say they do start to our pace you...
I have invested a lot of time into my fitness which has helped me keep up so fast but as you say the older I get the harder it's becoming... Especially as my youngest son has had 8 hours of private lessons in the last few days that my wife was supposed to have Laughing
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@Orange200, I understand your conundrum! Jnr is now 20 and has out skied me for the best part of 10 years! We countered this by him going on race training camps and us going along as hangers on and just going out by ourselves while they trained.

Next week will be our first time skiing together as a family for about 4-5 years! I’m going to treat it as a free lesson!
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