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14 Peaks Documentary - Netflix
 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead

Yes forcing a summit because you are on a tight schedule is playing Russian roulette with avalanches etc.
Having said that I’m not sure that these quick attempts are any more risky than when mountaineers such as Malory, Messner and Kukuczka were attempting them over a longer timespan. The advancements in equipment, communications and weather forecasting has made it a lot easier. It‘s not as if they are putting in many new routes during these fast attempts.

e.g. When Messner did a traverse over Nanga Parbat in 1970 many people believed it was a suicide mission.

Rivalry with customers pushing guides is nothing new either. e.g. Scott Fischer vs Rob Hall on Everest 1996
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person

boarder2020 wrote:
2 American women trying to be the first American woman to climb all the 8000m peaks both died trying to race each other to the top of Shishapangma which was the last on their list.

“Everything was going smoothly, but the competition between the two ladies ruined everything.” Mingma G

Full story here https://explorersweb.com/what-happened-shishapangma-climbers-speak/

TLDR -

- some suspicion one convinced customs officers to stall the other.

- both already were on oxygen at camp 1

- as much as his company are trying to distance themselves from it all. Nims was leader for Gutu’s team. He was far behind, which has raised questions about if he should of been on o2 (he wasn't using it as he wanted to tick this off as his last no O2 8000m peak). Even more so as there is some thoughts they may have taken a poor route.

- witnesses say Rzucidlo must have saw the first avalanche. Radio communication said Gutu was caught in it. Rather than help or even turn around they pushed on. Awful decision that cost her and her guides life.

- some absolute heroics by Mingma G, who almost died himself.

It was only a matter of time before these stupid record attempts resulted in disaster with people taking stupid risks. I wouldn't have a problem if they were climbing solo. But 2 guides have needlessly died because some rich westerner needed a worthless record.



No need to patronize and infantilize grown adults.

Sherpa is a prestigious career. They make good dollar. They are ultraskilled.

They and everyone knew the risk.

When you're climbing in a random avalanche deathzone at 25k feet, you can't be surprised when there are random avalanche deaths.

What's more, climbing the Himalayas today is safer than it has ever been in history.

Everest, for example, used to see 60% death rates in the 1980s. Now it sees 1-3% in the 2020s.

Tragic deaths, for sure.

But they knowingly took on the mountain.

And the mountain won.
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