St Gervais or La Clusaz in December

A snowHead

Along with every other Snowhead, I am desperate to get skiing next season. But even if the Alps are open for business, my wife and I can only manage a very quick two nighter, due to family commitments. To add to this, the best time for us to go is mid December. As we are travelling from Bristol our only sensible option is to fly to Geneva (Innsbruck Friday-Sunday doesn't work that early in the season.
Having done some research and ruled out Morzine and Chamonix, having done them many times, I am left with St Gervais and La Clusaz, which both fit the bill in most ways except being low for that time of year. I'm a reasonable skier and my wife is a plucky intermediate. Just as important for her is resort charm and decent hotel. I'm keen on value for money but also aware that for such a short trip a lot depends on the transfer.. My feelings are:
St Gervais looks good for large ski area, bustling charming town, bonus of the therme (can this be accessed by foot/ public transport from the village-it looks a bit out on limb?) and the options of skiing in other nearby areas if the snow is not good in St Gervais area itself. My worry is that transfers are a little complicated, with most shuttles dropping at La Foyet and then an extra taxi or shuttle required for the last bit (is this the case? Can you go one stop on the TMB or is it exorbitant)?
La Clusaz sounds even prettier, with enough skiing for two days, a regular shuttle from Geneva and a good selection of hotels. However, if the snow isn't available there isn't much better close by.

Apart from the obvious answer of, 'don't go in December' and 'hire a car', what do people think is the better option? Any transfer info would be gratefully received as well.

Many thanks in advance.

A snowHead

@EdYarker, have you checked when they're fully open? Might not be in mid-December, even if the snow is good. If I wanted to be sure of good skiing from Geneva in mid-December I'd drive just that bit further and go to Tignes. It's not as pretty as La Clusaz but there's nothing very pretty about La Clusaz in the rain wink

and even later in the season resort-level snow in La Clusaz is by no means guaranteed. And there's unlikely to be resort-level snow in St Gervais either, though of the two I'd prefer the town in St Gervais. Nowhere in that area is very high - and I don't think Megeve will be fully open in mid-December either. A lot of smaller/lower French resorts won't open till Christmas week.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

@EdYarker, If the snow isn't good in St Gervais, you're pretty stuck for any where else unless you have a car (where else were you thinking?) E.g. public transport St Gervais-Argentiere would be tedious.

Friends have always taken taxi from Le Fayet.

The TMB only runs from Dec 19. I can't see it being terribly convenient.

Does St Gervais actually (usually) open before Xmas week, even with good snow? Does La Clusaz?

If it was me...

Easy nominally fly Bristol-Milan Malpensa. Rent a car. Go to e.g. Champoluc which is quite charming and has a spa. It usually opens 1st weekend in December. And there's Cervinia to fall back on.

Or, Avoriaz? Which I think usually opens mid-Dec (Rock les Pistes festival).

You need to Login to know who's really who.

StG is not going to be snow sure & id even check if it’s going to be open, it normally opens around 18th December.
I’d go 1 village up to Les Contimens
As for the spa it is world class well worth a try
For transfer try blabla bus

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

St Gervais is good if its open on your dates - Even if it's just a bit open they do a good job of looking after what snow they have.
Its perfectly fine to stay in St Gervais and ski Les Contamines.
The Therme is in walking distance if you have energy, it's a short tax if not.
The TMB is run by the CMB as a tourist trap not as public transport (even though that is their remit.)
Public Transit or Taxi will get you to Cham if you decide its more Aiguile du Midi for sight seeing rather than skiing - if the snow is thin on the ground Les Contamines will be better than anything in Chamonix......unless rappeling into the Couloir Cosmique is your thing (guessing its not).

You'll need to Register first of course.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Thanks everyone for your quick and informative replies. St Gervais does say it's opening from the 12th December, as does La Clusaz but I guess it maybe limited lifts and obviously maybe extremely limited if there's no snow. We were thinking of travelling eg the 16-18th Dec.
@pam w, I have gone from Geneva to Tignes by road before and it's a long old way FWIR. Also the Mrs won't like the modern vibe there- hence the fact I'm deliberating over the low towns.
@under a new name, Avoriaz would be better for location but again not great for village feel (and I've done it many times). Would love to do Champoluc but I don't think the flight times + longish transfer from Milan would work for 2 days, but I will have another look.
Les Contamines was the fall back option I had in mind and @Idris, confirms that it's a reasonably easy commute from St Gervais. Thanks also for the advice re the Spa and the TMB and @Jonny996, for Blabla bus, although if it's a case of getting a cab from La Foyet we should be spoilt for choice with all the Chamonix companies.
I very much appreciate all of your time. I maybe back with some more queries but at the moment St Gervais is in the lead, if I can confirm it is planning to be open!

After all it is free

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

snowHeads are a friendly bunch.

oh - BTW, easy to get a taxi from Le Fayet to St G or Les C (can give you a number) but to be honest, its an easy drive and I really would hire a car

snow reports

Thanks for the continuing advice. It seems like the jury is out as to whether lifts will be open mid week when we are going. The advice of booking flights and sitting tight is probably wisest. And I know that car hire is probably also wise. My wife isn't quite naïve enough to expect a chocolate box snow scene but she just prefers characterful alpine villages as opposed to man made stuff. Shame that doesn't naturally go with Mid December!

@EdYarker, I think mid-December is a bit early for resorts in that area. Their published opening dates are usually the week before Christmas, though there may be limited opening before then.

From what I have seen of La Clusaz, St Gervais is the nicer village (I am biased!) but neither La Clusaz nor Les Contamines are manufactured resorts. Les C often has better snow conditions than St G, but the real question is whether there is an early enough dump next winter.

For transport, hiring a car which shouldn't be that expensive for 3 days at that time gives you by far the most options. For Le Fayet to St G and on to Les C there are bus services, but they are more frequent during the official ski season which starts in the week before Christmas. The TMB only runs when the Les Houches lifts are open in winter, and not that many services a day - but while it is expensive I don't think it is more than a taxi for two. If you want a through ticket then BlaBlaBus (suggested by @Jonny996) runs buses from Geneva airport to Sallanches (it goes on to Chamonix) to connect to local buses to St G and Les C - and indeed runs some later evening services that will drop off directly in St G (not Les C). In season AlpyBus run a shared transport that drops of in St G (again not Les C); both AlpyBus and BlaBlaBus late evening have single drop-off points so you would have to have reasonably central accommodation.

Should you want to visit the thermal baths in St G, they are at the bottom of the gorge - on a level with Le Fayet - while the village is at the top. The walk between the two is either a proper mountain path that would be treacherous in snow (unlikely at that level in December) or a longer but still steep wider path. Or the bus/car to Le Fayet and a level walk through the park.

If the ski lift company say the lifts will be open from 12th Dec, then I imagine after losing a whole season they will do their best to honour that - at worst there will be a limited selection of north facing higher pistes with artificial snow. And Les C a better bet.

Any questions do ask, there are some with close local knowledge here.

You know it makes sense.

@EdYarker, if you can get to Turin, Champoluc about 75 mins iirc, from Malpensa 90 mins, from Geneva 2hrs 30 ish.

Not the easiest problem to solve ...

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

This year was the first time that I've not been in St Gervais over Christmas for around fifteen years. We go because we have an apartment there and it's a great place to be. We don't go for the skiing at that time of year - we may be lucky but more often than not it is crap. We're back again two or three times in the season so can afford a duff ten days. If the skiing is poor we use the skating rink, the pool, walk with showshoes or drive up the Cham valley - there's plenty of other things to do.

In your shoes I'd consider somewhere more snowsure even if it entailed a longer transfer.

A snowHead

Id look at courchevel
If the skiing is poo-poo, at least you have the Christmasy feel
Val Thoren if you want ski ski ski

Dont forget jet2 now fly from BRS, might give you other options if you mix and match airlines.
Maybe EJ will bring back the Wed. to INN flight, that opens up sun to wed or wed to fri for tirol

A snowHead

@EdYarker, you seem to realise you're expecting the impossible, or at least highly improbable, but are asking snowHeads to tell you your plan is sound?
Is this a subtle form of blame deflection, when (should) it all goes Pete Tong? 'Well, a few snowHeads said it would be luvverly then'? I suppose you're not the first, or the last Laughing

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

St Gervais 1, La Clusaz 0 in the mid December cup final.

You need to Login to know who's really who.

What about Verbier by train / bus transfer. Snow and lifts guaranteed by mid-Dec and you should be able to get good value before Xmas week - try Hotel Bristol https://www.bristol-verbier.ch/

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

@BobinCH, good call.

You'll need to Register first of course.

@BobinCH, is snow ever "guaranteed"?

Why do I always forget about Verbier? Yes, defo good call.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

After all it is free

Well it seems like my two preferred options really are a long shot for half decent snow in December.
@PeakyB, I like your theory that I’m planning a disastrous trip and looking for scapegoats! The truth is that I realised it might be a slightly risky time to go but I hoped there would be a decent chance of some snow nearby but those in the know seem to think not, so I very much appreciate the warnings!
@under a new name, I have looked at Aosta options but as you say, the transfers aren’t that great.
@Mr.Egg, three valleys also means a long transfer ( although Jet2 to Chambery would help but I don’t think that’s up and running in time). Innsbruck Wed flights would be lovely but no sign of any yet. Verbier also much more expensive but looks like I will need to compromise somewhere or risk two days of hill walking!
Do you think Grand Massive resorts could work ( stay in a village- ski in Flaine) or a similar plan with Morzine and Avoriaz ( although would rather another option to try somewhere new)?
Thank you all once again- at least we are discussing ski resorts and not Covid!

What about Zermatt? Agreed that it's a longer transfer, but you can do it by train with less hassle than driving. Snow sure. nice town. Great mountain restarants

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

@EdYarker, can you get to Venice or Innsbruck for guaranteed snow covered pistes in the Dolomites? For example, Arabba, Corvara, Colfosco?

snowHeads are a friendly bunch.

@DCG, zermatt would be lovely and has some surprisingly affordable hotels but the train looks like 4 hours or so, which is a tough call for a two day trip. Would not Les Diaberolets or Villars be a more convenient option. I know little of the Swiss side but quite like the idea of the train.
@PeakyB, sadly the Venice flights don’t work for this.. too far apart and return flight goes at 07.00!

snow reports

@BobinCH, bien sûr ...

@EdYarker, It's actually quicker to drive to Zermatt than catching the train, but the train journey is something special - although needs to be in daylight really to get the best of it. I suppose it all depends on the times of your flights and assuming you're not trying to ski on the transfer day. Both the two you mentioned are closer. I've stayed in Les D and that has high level skiing. Have had a day at Villars but not sure about snow there in December (not doubting it, just not sure).
Anothr option would be Grimentz. 2 hours by train from GVA to Sierre and then a taxi to Grimentz. It's about as far from concrete jungle as you can get with really old wooden buildings dotted around.
If you can fly to Zurich then Andermatt and Engleberg are also viable.

You know it makes sense.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

@EdYarker, what's the problem with hiring a car?

A snowHead

@j b, Thanks for the advice. Yes I can (and will probably have to) hire a car. Just would prefer not to IF I was heading to a close resort.
@DCG, there are actually flights from Bristol to Basel which could just about work and perhaps brings Engleberg into the equation. I know very little about the place but it looks fairly high.
As most people are alluding to, my best bet is probably booking flights to Geneva, biting the bullet with a high car and study the forecasts when we get close. I still think the option of St Gervias with back up skiing in Les Cs is on the cards but why take the risk booking now? Thanks all once again.

A snowHead

@EdYarker, I'm a great fan of Swiss resorts. Admittedley they are more expensive than say Austria or Italy, but for a two day trip it might not be that bad. Flying into Basel opens up options and I would assume the amount of time you spend in the airport getting luggage etc vs. Geneva would trim a fair bit of time of the transfer. I've been to Engelberg twice on off-piste trips. It is high, with a rotating cable car going up to the glacier and a fair bit of skiing above 2000m. Gnarly in parts, but plenty of skiing for 2 days for aan intermediate. It gets busy at the weekend, but looks like you are going mid week. There is a ski bus linking the town with the main lift base station that only takes about 5 minutes. Not chocolate box, but a genuine town architecture. Maybe just over an hour and a half drive from Basel.
Andermatt not dis-similar, but steeper I would say. A VERY quaint old town with a lot of recent development added on.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

It might not help you but we go to StG every Boxing Day for 8-10 days & I’ve always managed to ski some days, mind you even if we didn’t we’d still love it

You need to Login to know who's really who.

@EdYarker, there's also Wengen & Murren - a 2 hour drive from Basel to Lauterbrunnen from where you get the train up to either.
Plenty on here about them (Jungfrau region reports) and no doubt advice on snow record for mid December

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Thanks @Jonny996, I haven't given up on St G just yet!
@Jonny996, I am looking at Swiss options. Yes, more expensive but for two days, might be swallow-able. I need to go and do research, rather than blurting out all the questions as they come to me (I have just been looking at the option of train to stay in Le Chable to ski Verbier or even trying Leysin). Maybe I will start a new thread once I have narrowed down some options. Thanks again.

You'll need to Register first of course.

@EdYarker, seeing as you‘re open to considering other resorts.... are you open to considering other dates? I think you‘d have more options / better chances of decent snow at *any* later time over the next 5 months. Having twice had no snow/nearly no snow in those close-to-Geneva resorts for the Christmas/New Year weeks there‘s no way I‘d book them in advance again earlier than February. For that time of year I‘d be looking at Tignes/Verbier/Zermatt.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

@Gämsbock, Alas no. Or at least, if I am able to do something late season I would be happy to have it as an add on to the early trip. It is fine. I will wait to book accommodation. If it is a poor year for early snow, there is always the train round to Le Chable, to ski Verbier...

After all it is free

@EdYarker, as a basic point, do you know your Bristol flight times yet?

Haven't booked flights yet but prices starting to inch up already.
Looking at Geneva arrive on the 15th at about 13.20, leave on the 17th at 19.35. If we are able to find somewhere reasonably close we should get almost 2 full day's skiing in and a relaxing first evening.

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

@EdYarker, if you've booked your flights it isn't a time in the season when there will be huge pressure on accommodation so you can judge that closer to the time. From the snow report websites, some years there is a good base building up in November which would give you lots of options but it doesn't always happen in which case you will need to look higher. And as long as you are prepared to hire a car if necessary all options are open.

Help!!

St Gervais or La Clusaz in December

snowHeads Forum Index >>> Resort Reviews and Trip Reports